Off the beaten track in Morocco

[get me outta here]

I really enjoy trip reports and this one is particularly great as I'm not sure I will get there.

 

[RooFlyer]

Leaving Marrakesh behind, we hit the highway north-east along the foot of the Atlas, towards Beni Mellal and then we headed into the foothills of the Atlas mountains to some pretty remote areas, looking at project areas.

I'm going to make a couple of posts with a bunch of pics from this excursion. Unlikely that many tourists will reach these areas - except maybe Lac Bin el Ouidine, which is marketed a bit.

First of all - roads in Morocco vary from great freeways you might see in any well developed country (RH pic), but most of the ones off highways are pretty good 2 lane jobs, easily drivable and safe (as long as you keep the usual eye out!) LH pic




Interesting things seen. Is this a mobile shrubbery? No - just a 'beast of burden'.




Off the beaten tourist track you get to see some of the less picturesque towns in Morocco. I could take similar pics in some remote Australian towns





Larger market towns are crowded and offer good 'local shopping' or, more importantly, a decent tagine in a hole-in-the-wall 'restaurant'.




You do see many charming things. Local means of transport and we were surprised at the extent and beauty of wildflowers in the more fertile areas.

 

[Sprucegoose]

Great TR! It's on my list. We looked at the phosphate job a few years ago now, not sure if it's the same one but it was a large undertaking from memory

 

[RooFlyer]

Thanks sprucegoose. It was gold in this part of the world - we saw the phosphate ops a bit later ...


Our project trip took us to Lac Bin el Ouidane, a hydro impoundment in the mountains behind Beni Mellal As we drove, we got a good view of our destination - a new road put across the face of one of the mountains. As usual, lots of small settlements on the way.




Once up there the views were magnificent.






There are a couple of hotels and resorts at the lake. We stayed at a 'middling one', Chems lac bin el Ouidane. It was like a mausoleum. All tiles and rock features inside, mostly empty, cold and echo-y. The first night the tucker was almost inedible, so our driver took us to the local butcher the next day so we could get some meat for the hotel to cook for us. I'm not kidding. this is the local butcher we went to, and I'm not sure if the donkey parked around the side was transport or, er ... destined for some other future.



Here's the outside of the hotel, and it did have nice views. There was one REALLY nice resort we noticed, perched on the hillside and at least one more hotel under construction.

 

[RooFlyer]

Still in the foothills of the high Atlas and after a climb up another bloody hill to look at some flea bitten prospect, at least you got a nice view.




As I mentioned before, roads are pretty safe. You see a lot of donkey riders, and its nice to see the world move at that pace. On the other hand, in the RH pic was the only accident I saw while in Morocco. We were having lunch on the hillside above, and missed the actual collision, but the fallout was entertaining (it was obvious no-one was hurt). About 10 minutes later the donkey riders in the LH pic sidled past the cars, now parked on the side of the road.




When 'out bush' we were grateful for any decent looking place to have lunch. But a nice café front didn't guarantee modern sanitation. (For those who have led a sheltered life, the LH pic is NOT a bucket shower ...). We quickly clued into the concept of 'BYO'. Actually, in nearly all places a tourist would go, there are flush toilets, so don't worry! When driving, there are 'road houses' not unlike ones in Australia which are clean and usually modern and you wouldn't hesitate to pull over, park in the shade and have a coffee or a cold drink and maybe a sandwich inside.




Although some small towns were less salubrious, but the tagine was certainly authentic!




So we bid the foothills (and some bloody big hills) goodbye and started our drive out towards the plains again, en route back to Casablanca and Rabat.

 

[RooFlyer]

Bit of a hiatus in posting as I've been trying to find the pics of the signet of the trip from the mountains back to Casablanca and up to Rabat. Checked various back up drives and no sign Only hope now is an off site backup drive but I'm pretty cheesed off.

Coming off the mountains towards Beni Mellal you get a magnificent view over the irrigated plains around Afourar. the irrigation comes from outfall of a hydro project which sources the Lac bin el Ouidane impoundment.






And now it'll just be text From the foot of the mountains its a couple of hours over a hot plain to Casablanca. Much of this is occupied by phosphate mining, which is one of Morocco's biggest industries, if not the biggest. Mounds of spoil heaps, shallow pits and processing plants abound.

Rabat is about 3/4 hour north of Casablanca, and is much smaller, being the capital but mainly just administration. Its moderately scenic and worth a visit.

If anyone stumbles across this, and is going to Rabat, you simply MUST visit the Ziryab restaurant in the medina. You first follow signs for a few streets, then a guy meets you, with a lamp (if its night). Then you twist and turn through old, narrow streets you would never think of visiting otherwise. Then you come to the restaurant, which is in a riad. Basically its a feast, and you should skip lunch if coming for dinner. About 7 courses, and none of them small.

Anyway, wrapping up there. I'm going to trawl through my offsite backup to see if I can find those other pics.

 

[JohnK]

Very enjoyable trip report!

The colours of the countryside look amazing. Dont think I will ever get a chance to visit but you never know.

 

[Magpie10]

Absolutely wonderful TR. Roo flyer, hope you were successful in locating those photos, as the ones posted are great,gives a great insight to Morrocco. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Simo]

Great TR...

Thanks for the photo's as well

 

[JohnM]

Nice TR.

Brings back memories from three years ago when I did a similar circuit (minus the SW coast, but including Fez which is very interesting). Self-funded and travelling with PartnerJohnM's two twenty-somethings so no luxury hotels with garish lighting for us.

However, we did rent a car and drive ourselves, which was great fun - especially in old town Marrakech and Fez!

You were there at a nicer time of the year, with trees flowering and snow on the Atlas Mts making a very pretty sight compared with our dry scenery in September.

Hope the other pics show up.

 

[RooFlyer]

Brave man to drive yourself! Although after 3 trips there now, I think I might be willing to try it. Main worry of course if there's an accident - likely won't be able to talk to the other party, or the cops if its away from large town (except maybe with a bit of French).

And then there is parking!!! :shock:

 

[JohnM]

It wasn't so bad. I have my own GPS that I always load with the maps of countries I'm going to. It helps, but of course is not infallible in very old places like Morocco.

The daughter was over 25 so she went on the driver list and did a bit of driving but outside the cities. Son was <25 at the time so I couldn't put him into the driver's seat.

Got pulled over by the cops coming into a small town when daughter was driving as she crossed a double white line overtaking a very slow bus but the lines were so faint as to be almost invisible. I did the talking but there was always the option of the young driver busting into tears . The cop kept pointing up the road and I kept looking puzzled. It's remarkable how playing like a very dumb (but very polite) foreigner can have the cops fed up with trying to explain your offence to the point they give up and send you on your way ;-).

 

[Julesmac]

What a super trip report Rooflyer. Appreciate you putting in the time - it all looks wonderful and has whetted my appetite. Morocco and Marrakesh.....on the bucket list!

 

[lucko]

Morocco looks ok spending about 6 days there in May on a tour going to Tangier Casablanca Marrakesh Fes. Your photos look good.Any other tips for a first timer.

 

[RooFlyer]

Tips for a first timer ... Hmmm

Immigration at airports (and probably at sea ports) into Morocco is slow and tedious. I have entered via Rabat and Casablanca and they are similar, although Rabat better because its quite a small airport.

When shopping HAGGLE! Best not to buy on your first visit to a shop. Go to shop A, haggle, see what the pricing and selection is like (for instance, for a carved fossilized dish), then go to another, repeat. If you feel like buying, don't go back to either, as they will probably remember you and know you are interested. Go to a third shop, find the same or similar thing, haggle politely but determinedly and you will probably end up paying much more than you should, but it will probably be a cheap-ish price in absolute terms.

If you go on tour with a local guide (eg round the Marrakech souq), he will probably take you to a place where the quality is 'guaranteed', but there is no price negotiation (places selling 'real' pashmina are often like this). Again, try to do some shopping / haggling before this to see what the quality / prices really are like. But if you like what you see, ask politely if they will give you a discount, but if the answer is no, just see if you think its worth it. Our guide took us to the inevitable carpet place, which we said up front we didn't want to do. We just walked straight out again and the guide came out a few minutes later.

Don't drink water from taps or jugs or juices at market stalls or roadside places, unless you see then squeeze the juice from the fruit in front of you, every time. Bottled water only. Fresh orange juice should be plentiful and cheap.

You are in a tour group, so probably won't affect you, but taxis, especially at airports are huge rip-offs. Usually all taxis there run by one guy, and they will charge the same, all a HUGE amount (ie maybe 25 euros minimum), with no negotiation, unless you have some French and have time to argue in the sun.

Food is pretty good, especially at places obviously set up for the tourists but on work trips I've been to plenty of local, out in the boonies café type places and never suffered any ill effects. Tomato/lettuce and onion salad in a small bowl is a popular starter. Must try a tagine or 3, hard to tell if its going to be a good one or not, but should be bubbling hot in front of you, with good meat and lots of colourful veg.

Again, with a tour you are probably be OK, but traffic can be awful anywhere, but especially in Casablanca. If you think you should leave for the airport 2 hours before a flight, leave 3 hours before.

Personal security - generally OK, with usual common sense stuff. Definitely less good at night. I (middle aged male) have walked around the tourist parts of Marrakech and Casablanca at night, where there were plenty of people about. Lots of people were hissing at us - offering 'hash' (-ish).

If you have a little French, that helps a lot. English is most people's third language.

I've seen tourists and even local ladies wear T shirts and short-sh pants - Morocco is quite a liberal country, but I would suggest to ladies not to push your luck - you might go into a shop where the owner is conservative and you might be shunned. I'm not talking about wearing scarves & long trousers, just don't 'let it all hang out' .

Hope that helps.

 

[lucko]

Sorry to all i should have said the three tours are all escorted but i will have free time in lots of places but will not be driving. But all the threads were helpfull. The first tour finishes in Madrid and i pick up the second in Paris where it starts and finishes then i have make my way to Istanbul for the final tour. Thinking of taking train from Madrid to Barcelona spending three nights there then on to Paris either by train or plane. I was thinking of going by train to look at the countyside but it takes about six hours. Prices i seen on the internet seemed similar except for BYO JET which was about a third of other carriers. Ihave never flown with them or other small carriers so i was looking for some help from you more experienced flyers with transport from MAD to BAR then BAR to PARIS and PARIS to ISTANBUL Any thoughts & tips would be appreciated. PS also staying a few nights in Paris before heading to Istanbul.:-|

 

[JohnM]

Sorry to all i should have said the three tours are all escorted but i will have free time in lots of places but will not be driving. But all the threads were helpfull. The first tour finishes in Madrid and i pick up the second in Paris where it starts and finishes then i have make my way to Istanbul for the final tour. Thinking of taking train from Madrid to Barcelona spending three nights there then on to Paris either by train or plane. I was thinking of going by train to look at the countyside but it takes about six hours. Prices i seen on the internet seemed similar except for BYO JET which was about a third of other carriers. Ihave never flown with them or other small carriers so i was looking for some help from you more experienced flyers with transport from MAD to BAR then BAR to PARIS and PARIS to ISTANBUL Any thoughts & tips would be appreciated. PS also staying a few nights in Paris before heading to Istanbul.:-|

There is a relatively new fast train between MAD & BCL that is very good. Nice watching the speedo in the carriage and see it just crack 300 kph a couple of times.

I always prefer driving so I can do what I want when I want - and I love the fun and pleasure of driving in places where people know how to drive, unlike here :evil:. On the last occasion in Spain, which immediately followed the Morocco travel, I rented a car in MAD and went to the N coast (San Sebastian - great place) before looping around to BCL and dropping the car to take the fast train back to MAD because of time constraint.

In Istanbul, just be sure to have a freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice from one of the many street stalls - yum! .

 

[Flashback]

It wasn't so bad. I have my own GPS that I always load with the maps of countries I'm going to. It helps, but of course is not infallible in very old places like Morocco.

The daughter was over 25 so she went on the driver list and did a bit of driving but outside the cities. Son was <25 at the time so I couldn't put him into the driver's seat.

Got pulled over by the cops coming into a small town when daughter was driving as she crossed a double white line overtaking a very slow bus but the lines were so faint as to be almost invisible. I did the talking but there was always the option of the young driver busting into tears . The cop kept pointing up the road and I kept looking puzzled. It's remarkable how playing like a very dumb (but very polite) foreigner can have the cops fed up with trying to explain your offence to the point they give up and send you on your way ;-).

As opposed to my recent trip ... where the only overtaking I experienced/saw (many, many times) was ONLY over solid white lines!

Great TR, thanks RooFlyer. We went to a few of the same destinations as you did.

 

[lucko]

Just returned from our trip to Spain Portugal Morocco France Turkey &Seoul flying Korean airlines. Visited many places including battleflields in northern France and Gallipoli. Please reply if you think i can be of any help in planning a trip.