Granada to Capileira
We opted to not order a taxi (not sure of their English, our Spanish capabilities) & instead walked down about 15min towards the Cathedral to catch a cab-again a local Spanish guy who was friendly, neat & tidy & knew his way around. It was easy to find our way around the bus station & the bus left on time. Sitting up the back meant we again scored a spare seat each. This tactic was also used by another Aussie family from Forster so we had a good yarn to them (one of the daughters is a music teacher in New York). This was a fantastic 2.5hr bus ride even if it was a bit of a milk run. We left the city behind and climbed through more olive dominated areas up into the southern Sierra Nevada region. Our path to the La Alpujarra valleys wound us through many little villages, spectacular hairpin bends, great vistas & locals getting off in very obscure spots. We appreciated the help of a fellow passenger (Spanish) who identified the upcoming villages & we marvelled at the whitewashed landscape we found ourselves in.
Around Capileira
The township seems pretty compact and although there is a lot of climbing & descending everything is pretty close. There are arid hillsides, and the white Berber style villages are set amongst the gardens, orchards and woodlands. Prickly pear is in abundance & in flower in spots. We find a place selling a hamburger as a late lunch & then have a wander uphill to get a bit of perspective of the area. We find the “small” supermarket & stock up. We again see a mobile lottery/lotto seller equipped with a EFTPOS machine wandering around-not sure if it will take off in Aust! We are certainly now in rural Spain & the locals are very friendly, although not good at cleaning up after their dogs! We enjoy a siesta in the much cooler conditions & then have another wander around town and gather some advice from the tourist office re our walking options for the next couple of days. It is then time to use the terrace & have a home cooked pasta feast.
Our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] full day in Capileira dawns fine & sunny but the quiet neighbourhood means we have a late start to the day & enjoy coffee & breakfast on the terrace. Once our washing is done we head off for a walk/treck- the major reason for our visit here.
The Walk Of The Poqueira Gorge- we opt for the shorter version that starts in Capileira (1 of the higher villages in the Alpujarras) & does a loop to the generating station at La Cebadilla & then back to our village. It is apparently ranked as medium difficulty and peaks at around 1600m with us starting at 1432m. There are great views of the river valley & the final stretch back into Capileira is a steep drop so there are plenty of photo opportunities. We encounter a mix of paved paths, dirt track, narrow stony sections of climb and broader tracks through treed sections. Mrs RB gives her walking poles their maiden run and is happy with her new accessories. There are quite a few abandoned buildings that are used as markers on a walk description we had with us (pretty handy as the mentioned marker posts quite often didn’t seem to be there). At the generating station there is a chapel that has fallen into disrepair & other abandoned buildings that used to house the station workers. We spend a little time at this turning point to check the water flow & some of the pipe work that is in place. During the walk back we see sections of water channel and branching in place, a pine plantation and good views over to the outward path we had been on. The great views down over Capileira are a filip for the flagging energy levels. We covered somewhere around 10km, had a bit of a look around the generating station and were back home inside 3hrs so maybe the fitness wasn’t as bad as I was feeling during some of the steeper climbing sections (I was blaming the 1 litre bottles of beer consumed over the last 3 weeks of what has been mostly city style walking).
The recommended pizzeria near the church off the main square turned out a nice gratis tapas of ham and the pizzas we ordered were great.
The warm, sunny weather continued for our last day in Capileira. Pampaneira, Bubion & Capileira make up the 3 villages lying on the eastern side of the most popular walking area of the Alpujarra. There is a variety of routes linking them but we opted for a bit of a mixed bag. Down to Bubion we follow a mainly narrow path that zig zags down the valley. There are a few damp sections and a few spots that threaten to be slippery as you look to place your feet. As with yesterday we encounter streams, small bridges, ruined farms, chestnut trees and more ruins of threshing circles. We spot the goats wearing their bells and view some of the terraces in use for the home vegetable gardens. Sunday seems to mean a quite day in Bubion so we only spend a short time there before pushing on to Pampaneira. We opt for a 1km path that coincides in spots with the G.R.7- the long distance path that runs from Athens to Tarifa. Things are certainly not manicured and the footing is varied. There are more ruined huts, springs, vegetable gardens, water tanks and ramshackle farms as we catch great views of our eventual target. The final minutes see us walking through a maze of village streets & passing some craft shops before we spill out near the church. Mass is on & Mrs RB catches a sneak view of a very ornate interior & priest in full voice. The village centre is buzzing with a few bus groups, weekend trippers, motorbikers, cyclists enjoying the mountain loops and locals out for their promenade. Mrs RB decides to purchase a 1litre wine pouch (think old cowboy movie style) complete with local vino and demo by the local ham man (don’t think it was his first demo of the morning and he repeated the performance a few times to be sure we would know how to handle it! I doubt it will see the time of day in Aust.
We take the easy way back & jump on the bus that is eventually heading to Travelez. Capileira has a few people around but is nowhere near as busy with day trippers as Pampaneira. We do a bit of window shopping and also return to the leather workshop “J Brown” available online at jbrowntallerdepiel.com. This is a tailor made outlet, proudly Spanish, with limited collections of hand made shoes, belts, coats, hats, pants all produced from cow hide-great soft products - we now own another hand bag & small purse. I again resisted the chance to join the “man bag set”! It was then home to try our skills at using the wine pouch.
Photos below illustrate the landscapes we walked through with the last photo illustrating the sale of local wines