Peru & Ecuador. Machu Picchu and a Galapagos cruise with a side of southern USA

smckay

Active Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Posts
616
Our latest adventure in May 2025 is a trip to Peru and Ecuador.
Ride along with us as we work the second-last Platinum-released award seat flights starting on April 23.

Awake at Stupid O’Clock to catch the 06:05 Hobart to Sydney flight. The day started poorly with the off-airport parking company not leaving their yard until 06:10 when check-in closed at 06:20. We got to the desk at 06:18.

Therefore lounge time was 2 muffins and 2/3 cup of coffee.

Seats 2D & 2F on an A220. This was our second last trip booked when I was somebody - QF Platinum - so we luckily had J seats from HBA to SCL. Both trips were all requested seats that were granted by the Bot.

A phenomenon not seen on mainland flights was 2 empty rows in business.

Crew were doing their job no more, but the CSM sparked up on hearing we were doing Machu Picchu and Galapagos, with the announcement she was going next year.

Meal was basic - the choice of a corn cake with 2 sausages or a feta omelette with mushroom.

In a twist, we were served first which I thought was interesting seeing that row 1 was occupied - with Plats in 1A and C. However, once the CSM served 1A & C it was revealed that 1D & 1F were on staff travel - and their daughter’s allowance at that. Unlucky for them there was only corn cake left. QF back to miserable by loading 6 meals in total.

The meals were simply food and no more.

The A220 in business is a nice thing. Wireless phone chargers, USB ports, place to hold your phone or tablet securely, a leg and foot rest. I think the chairs and cabin is better than the clunky old 737.

Transit in Sydney was trouble free. Scan the boarding pass, down some stairs and over to the immigration entry. Security and immigration was as normal - people not listening and leaving iPads in bags, not bagging LAGS. I got done for wearing hiking shoes and trying to sneak through the scanner. Had I pulled my jeans down to cover them I was have beaten the system but today the System won.

Being dropped to QF Gold is a bit of an inconvenience as we now have to walk all the way back to the business lounge (joke - calm down Karen) but we arrived there with a couple of hours to kill. Breakfast consisted of baked beans, bacon, sausage and scrambled eggs along with the usual suspects of pastries, cereal and fruit.

Cawfee was a well made Vittoria.

Boarding was an experience. The gate lady was straight outta LAX - she was not letting any non-group 1 and 2 rogue come near her scanner. But bona fide 1 & 2 folks were multiple and varied. Whilst they looked very much like a Latam domestic flight crowd, they were all entitled rogues and eventually we worked it out and shuffled through.

As I was Somebody when I booked these, we were plonked in 3A and 3K which we chose for the table against the aisle which I think gives some privacy i.e. your behind is not in the aisle when you are curled up.

The usual pre-departure stuff went on - fill out your breakfast card within 5 minutes as well be back to collect them (ignored), champagne and water was offered and accepted and PJ’s were doled out.
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Take off was delayed a bit but we eventually got there.

The 787 is a quiet plane on take off, second only to the A380 for me, and once in the air we had a good look at Sydney as we took off to the West and looped around to the South. There were a few bumps on the way up, possibly due to an ANA 787 going before us but I made my 120 second count just fine.

Service started just after seat belts off. First was the meal order, with the words ‘the drink of your choice’. So I asked for the Margherita and then what reds were on offer. Being told I could have a Pinot Noir or a Shiraz I asked for the Pinot to be told I’d be offered that with the meal and I should only do my meal order right now. “But missus you said the drink of my choice”….
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My choice of the lamb tasting plate was not bad. The lamb was hard and fatty, the goats cheese was a delight with that creamy goat flavour quickly followed by lemon. The pickles were good but I left the plums. Neil’s greens were still made by the work experience kid and had the brown ends on the stems.
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The main was a mixed bag. I’m a serial beef fillet eater in J and at the time of writing on the plane I am sure the portion size has been reduced a lot. If I remember when I get home I’ll look at previous trip pics. Also, it was tender but tough if that makes sense. The polenta chips! Hot damn they were good.
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All of a sudden mains were finished and dessert was on offer. I should have had the cheese but 2A asked for ice cream and I could only obey, and so ordered the ice cream sandwich. Which was dry-ice-frozen and required 10 minutes to thaw. But the result was worth the wait and I asked for another one. Because I Used To Be Somebody and I could. But not enough for the CSM to swing by and have a chat. I do miss being felt special. Although he is generous with his wine pours and smiles nicely when I try to be intellectual.

About this time we crossed the South Island of New Zealand and saw some amazing views of the alpine region. Channeling my inner Kiwi it was epic Bro’.

The wines were both good. The Pinot was very light both in colour and taste. I then tried the Shiraz and it was more to my liking so I sat on that. Barossa Shiraz to me is a good balance between a robust wine and one with depth. Some Shiraz are just a strong wine without character and seems to overpower you. But I’m only a Bogan beer drinker so take that comment as you will.

Meal service was done after 3 hours and the cabin grew dark. Most of the people have changed into their QF PJ’s and are ready for sleep, and most of those folks look very South American, and as it’s after midnight in Santiago I understand why.

UnZud has now been left behind and we are on a 10 hour leg over cold, hard, uninviting water.

06:30 local time saw me awake after a poor few hours sleep. Ambling down to the snack bar I spoke with the CSM who was very friendly. We ended up discussing status and recognition. Apparantly Qantas are now directing that only P1 and above are worthy of a greeting and if you are WP or less you’re nobody. We both agreed that’s a funny way to treat a fairly large part of your customer base.

Something didn’t agree with me - perhaps the bottle of Shiraz I was given over a few hours- and I awoke with an upset stomach. Plus with the dinner still fresh I opted for a breakfast of coffee, juice and a sourdough crumpet.

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Arrival in Santiago was routine, as was immigration and customs. Grabbed our bags, wandered off to the Latam desk to enquire of an earlier flight.

We did have a 14:30 flight to Lima booked but changed it after some suggestion that about 4 hours was not enough time, and coupled with the real possibility of QF delaying either flight we re-booked to a 19:40 departure which meant a midnight arrival into our hotel. The nice lady at the service counter found us a 13:30 flight for the cost of $57USD each extra. At this point it was a case of shut up and take my money and so we were booked on LA520 departing at 13:30, meaning a quick stop in the Latam lounge.

The lounge was a nice place. Spacious, lots of seating and multiple food stations with a variety of options. There was an open bar but with tenders and the quite obvious large glass jar dead centre. Luckily we were past alcohol and just went water to hydrate. Both of us now had upset stomachs to the point of staying close to a bathroom.

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The lounge was well set up with a kids room well away from the adults, a movie room playing a soccer game and a sleep room which looked to have about 5 beds in it. Not completely private and there might be a risk of someone lifting your belongings but one of the better setups I’ve seen.
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Latam ask that you are at the gate 1 hour before boarding so we duly trudged down to the gate and spent the 30 minutes of potential lounge time waiting at the gate and trying to work out the Spanish announcements. After a couple of false starts we joined the line for group 1 boarding.

I have booked all internal flights as premium economy for a couple of reasons; lounge access as even though I am One World Sapphire I’m wary of being bounced and the other is the seating. My experience of South American flights is a scrum with no prisoners taken so I’m happy to pay the cost to have a seat and a bag space just for me.

On board the seats are the same as European business; economy seats with the middle not used and a bit more leg room. Different to your BA business is the centre seat only has a place holder so you can still use the seat as storage.

We got seated, got 2 roller bags and a backpack stowed up top and sat back. In between the relentless queue the hostess managed to deliver both a 600ml water and an amenity kit. The kit was unexpected and similar to a business flight with socks, shades, plugs and toothbrush.

The plane was a tired old A320. It rattled and shook on the runway as we took off and continued to rattle whilst climbing. As I scored 1D I was watching the 2 crew and they both were happily talking away seemingly not aware of the takeoff and anything unusual. Call me a prat but I am big on situational awareness and I just didn’t see them being in the moment.

The meal on offer was linguini or salad. I went the salad and it was a good choice. The guacamole was good and the salsa stuff was even better. Fruit was crisp and fresh but the blueberries were approaching their use by date.
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Beer was a local one, advertised as a lager but more of a drought with a medium heavy body. More golden ale than golden lager.
After the meal was cleared the galley curtain was pulled across and comms stopped except for brief intervals of drinks top ups. I sat back and tried to watch the amazing scenery, whilst trying not to head butt the wall in front of me as lack of sleep was now becoming an issue.IMG_6403.jpeg

Differences to Australian flights; you can keep the window shades down on take off and landing. You can keep your tablets out. Things that could fly out and whack you, such as a new 600ml bottle of water can be left loose and not stored.

The life jacket is demonstrated after the oxygen in the safety briefing.

Landing was a bit of a thump but nothing broke and we were off the plane in a decent time. Immigration was just a long wait similar to US experiences. But the lines moved ok, the questions by the official were cursory, except for the request to see my boarding pass. It had left the chat somehow and I couldn’t find it. Lack of sleep was nearly making me say something dumb like I needed it to get on the plane so why do you need it but I resisted and didn’t get an appointment in a small private room. The immigration lady looked at +1’s and waved us on our way.
The Premium Economy choice was now starting to pay off - priority bags were at the carousel waiting in a small roped off area and we waltzed up and grabbed them like a DYKWIA champ.

We’d booked a taxi datum for the hotel transfer, and the change of plane/time was no hassle. I replied to their confirmation email in Santiago, they replied before we left the lounge and at the exit was a man with a sign with my name on it. Simples.
Then, our introduction to Lima traffic started. And what an introduction. Rush hour on a Friday night. The rules are there are no rules; indicators are there simply to make the corner of the car look nice. Lane markings are a mistake made by a Government Authority and pedestrian crossings are a game show where you try to beat the people walking on them. To merge you simply look forward and turn the wheel to the direction you wish to take. The winner is the person who chickens out first (and I have seen proof that 2 non-chickens had duelled with each other by the gouge’s down the sides of cars).
When turning at an intersection you can queue up either side of the first person and the challenge is to be the first to enter the road. If you can achieve at least 3 cars lined up behind you, as it means they believe in you to be the first across the gap and there must be an app that provides recognition of this talent. Turning across 2 lanes of traffic from the curb side lane is a feat that anyone can achieve.
Horns are unreliable and must be tested once every minute whilst driving. But, if you come across Old Mate doing the 3-car turn blocking a lane, protocol is to wait about 90 seconds before you use the horn to alert him that he/she could have turned in the .45 of a second gap in the oncoming traffic.
The traffic is not so much dense as more of a solid line of vehicles all spaced about 8 microns apart all trying to go to the same place at once. It is just insane and we must have zigged and zagged 20 times trying to avoid it. But there is so much traffic here you cannot avoid it, you just have to roll with it.
Our man got us there in the end and we happily paid him $20USD which was a 2 dollar tip. His sudden enthusiasm to deliver our bags to reception was revealed on day 3.
After a fraught 60 minutes we arrived at our hotel, roughly 29 hours after leaving home. And a maximum of 4 hours sleep.

We booked Tierra Viva Miraflores Larco as it was 1. Through Qantas and I got additional points to use for a future award booking and 2. It was reasonably priced with an included breakfast. Check in was smooth and uneventful and we wandered off to our 5th floor room for some much needed sleep.

Or not. Cheap hotels mean cheap insulation and we copped plenty of life’s noises all night long. Luckily the roof top night club and bar just next door did not penetrate the walls but managed to find a route through the exhaust fan in the bathroom, but closing the door fixed that.

The bed is massive - it seems to be 2 Queens joined, but on a creaky wooden base. Air conditioning was efficient and cooled us down.
 
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Day 2.

Waking at around 5am to the sounds of the cook on the 8th floor preparing breakfast started us off. Breakfast started at 7am and we presented at about 8.30. The breakfast room is on the top floor and has an open balcony out to the world.

The offerings were basic but adequate; cereals, yogurt, fresh fruit (rockmelon, watermelon and pineapple chunks) cold meat and cheese, breads, and 2 hot choices, today being scrambled eggs, potato pieces and chicken in a Mediterranean sauce. Both hot dishes were not and were quite cold.

They offered cooked to order options like French toast, pancakes, waffles, eggs in various forms as well. My first request for French toast was denied due to lack of ingredients. So I went pancakes whilst, +1 took on the waffles.
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Both arrived either cool or just warm which is interesting as the kitchen is 10 steps away. They were acceptable and tasted OK.

Today’s plan was 2 walking tours as we enjoy them and have had some very good ones in Europe. Advertised as free the expectation is to tip them at the end which is always somewhat awkward as one doesn’t know if one is insulting or over paying.

The first one was Lima walking tours historic Lima, taking us around the main centre and all the important parts. The pick up point was just around the corner from our hotel at the tourist centre so we made the 10:30 meeting time with ease.

In a nutshell, this was more a shuffle tour than walking. First we wandered off to a bus station which are cleverly placed in the centre of the motorways and have dedicated lanes. What is a 60 minute trip by car is 30-odd on the bus. But they are packed and you are squeezed in.

We stopped at about 6 places during this tour, had a bit of background intel on the history of Lima. I wouldn’t say it was an outstanding experience and it was very protracted and slow. The Euro versions are much more snappy and in-depth but perhaps this is the Lima way.

The second walking tours historic was again with a Lima walking yours and was around the Miraflores district where we were staying. This was hosted by 2 ladies, one from Lima and the other from Cusco. They gave us 2 perspectives on what we were seeing, as the a us o lady explained how the native tongue was semi-lost when the Spanish arrived and gave us a it of a run down on the language.

But again, there was a lot of walking with long breaks between stops. I also noticed we were delivered infomercials - once when we were stopped at a vendor cart in Kennedy Park and given the spiel on how they were Netflicks-famous for their donuts and we ought to partake. No one did.

The second time was at the end of the tour. We were told the story of Pisco Sour and then invited to have a free tasting. Of the 12 on this tour, 4 said no deal whilst the other 8 went along with it. We figured out the location was right next to our hotel - the noisy roof top bar - so went what the heck what do we have to loose. Thinking we’d get a wine-tasting size glass, they actually gave us beer float sized glasses. And we didn’t pay, but we were given the 10% off food and drink if we stayed and to make sure we told them the 2 girls names.

Nothing appealed so we left with the rest of the group, who were a diverse interesting bunch.

Seeking a real Peruvian dinner our first choice was no good as it was mainly seafood (+1 is not a fan) and dear so we needed up at an Italian-themed joint. Why you ask? Probably due to Carlos on the door who did a good sell job on the virtues of his employer.
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Exhibit 1 - Carlos scoping the streets.

First surprise - Lima is not cheap with meat mains running about 50-75 Sols for your average dish and higher for more exotic offerings. The only real Peru meals were some chicken dishes, one with a creamy nut and chilli sauce and the other in a creamy corn sauce.

The nut and chili was as advertised but not hot, and the corn sauce had a distinctly European celery taste about it. The portions were also quite small so we dealt a bit dudded. All local beers bar a Pilsner were out of stock so I grabbed one. It was not a typical pilsner taste and enjoyable. 12 soles are about 7 bucks.
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Back to the hotel and still weary so we turned the lights out about 9.30pm.

But, being Friday night others were in the mood for dancing and so it was that doors were opened and closed, halls were walked with plans discussed at high sounds and to top it off the room upstairs also had a creaky wooden bed. That went creak creak creak creak at about 1am but luckily not for long.

How’s that $100/night hotel working for you now???
 
Day 3.

We had a tour booked for a 9am pick up so we hit the breakfast room just on 7.15 in high hopes. Today the fruit was paw paw, pineapple and watermelon, the potatoes were now chips, deep fried chicken wings and legs replaced the Mediterranean chicken and scrambled eggs were on again. But they were all cold. 15 minutes after breakfast started. Crikey.
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French toast was available today so I ordered that. 3 small pieces which were - you guessed it - luke warm. Not real French-toasty either and the garlic dip on the side was a bit much at this hour. For reference the sandwich board out front prices this at 45 Sol or 20 bucks.
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At the allotted time we met our guide out front. They were in a newer JMC people mover with air con and leather seats. We scored by only having another couple with us so were getting a private tour. At the hotel out the front were the other people and in they jump. With the bloke wearing a Melbourne Storm cap. What the? I travel 29 hours to another country and we are on a tour with a couple of Aussies? To be fair, there are a lot of Aussies and NZ’rs over here on tour so it wasn’t unexpected.
We went to pachacamac ruins which is about 45 minutes south of Lima. A very fascinating place with multiple periods of civilisation on display. It is a huge site and if you were to walk it you would need all day. We basically drove around in the van stopping at 4 sites so we didn’t see it ‘all’ but enough to grasp the life and different eras of Peru. They had on display a number of artefacts which were amazing in their detail and depth. The museum was new and had a lot of interpretive displays with detailed information, that was just not present out in the field.
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Our guide from Haku! Tours was great. He was interested in archeology and had a lot of enthusiasm for the site. Gave us plenty of background on the site on the drive in and kept it up through the various stops.
After about 2 hours we headed back to Lima to be dropped off.
We were still a bit tired so just hung out in the room. Also, Lima is such a big busy place neither of us could be bothered with the rush, noise and hubbub on the streets.

Our guide gave us some recommendations for dinner, which would be eating like a local with local prices. Miraflores is an expensive part of town as it is a major tourist spot for attractions and hotels and it is not cheap to eat out if you are not in the know.

So it happened we arrived at Restaurant Cappa in a dingy side street just before 4pm to take advantage before they closed at 4.30pm. The first challenge was the English to Spanish transfer of words. Our man out front didn’t speak a lot of English and our Spanish was limited to Hola, Gracias and Manuel. Some gesturing, some pointing, some showing of last nights menu got us pretty well nowhere but the 15 Sols for entree main and a drink had us hooked so in we went.
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15 Sols is roughly $6.50 so we weren’t risking a lot if it all went bad.
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The night before we had been given some starters called Tequenos which are basically puff pastry rolls filled with cheese and deep fried. Spotting them on the menu gave us our entree. Somehow my wife figured out what Parilla was so asked for that. My approach was somewhat more basic - as a plate of food went past I said I’ll have that. ‘That’ turned out to be a chicken fillet deep fried with 2 slices of potato, rice and some salad. Parilla is deep fried chicken legs and was served with the spuds, rice and salad I got.
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The portions were pretty good for what it was. Certainly on par with the night before, which was quite small, and the added extra of picante was nice, although I am confident it is going to make itself known in the coming hours. Perhaps I ought to take it easy on the spicy stuff from a dingy food joint in a dingy side street in a foreign city.

The drink was some sort of berry flavoured drink. A bit sugary, not watery and in a schooner-sized glass.

Lima reflections. It is dusty as anything. It literally never rains so the dusty sand is blown about and covers everything. There is a layer of dust and dirt on every surface.

It’s busy. There are a lot of tourists so you kind of blend in.

Despite lots of warnings about theft/mugging/etc I never noticed anything to concern me. But we also stayed in a very tourism-focussed area and police and patrols were quite visible.

The poor area’s are poor. The average daily income is about $2.50USD which explains why our taxi guy nearly leapt in the air when we dropped a two dollar tip on him.

Lots of street vendors trying to sell stuff like chocolate bars and the like. Our Haku! guide claimed they made about 15 Sols per day which is naff all, given that a local bus trip would be about 1-1.50 Sols.

Tomorrow; flight to Cusco, car to Ollantaytambo and a quick visit to the ruins there in the afternoon.

And we found out why the room is noisy. The window on the inner light well had been opened an inch which we never noticed. Hopefully tonight will be quieter of external noise.
 

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