Planes, ferries and automobiles. Kangaroo Island in these unprecedented times

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We got back to Penneshaw and our tent before dark but were nevertheless constantly on the look out for suicidal wallabies and roos.

Wallaby alley just above the drop down into Penneshaw

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We saw literally hundreds of dead marsupials over our three days on the island.

Dinner at Penneshaw Hotel The Penneshaw Hotel, Kangaroo Island, South Australia was booked when we checked in the previous day. We had a $30 meal voucher plus two schooners of tap beer or house wine. Now maybe South Aussies call a schooner a pint and a middie/pot a schooner but if not these miserable little 'free' beers (not schooners) were a sign of things to come

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The special of the night - rolled pork with herb stuffing and roast vegetables - sounded great and that's what we ordered. We waited, and waited and when I saw a table who had come in half an hour after us get their meals I decided we'd waited long enough. Just as I was about to get up and ask the meals were put on our table. They looked pretty nice although what should have been crackle definitely wasn't. Another red flag?

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bigal cut into his and asked how mine was. I tried and said a little tough. I persisted and ate maybe half of mine. Al gave up and ate his veg. I have the ears of my mother and heard someone at another table say their meal was inedible. I could see it was the pork. The young waitress cleared the table and didn't even ask about why both meals were pretty much uneaten.

We're gluttons for punishment so decided we'd give dessert a go. I was asked how are mains were while I was ordering dessert and I said we don't usually complain but they were horrible. I told who I'm guessing was the bar manager you couldn't cut the pork and that I'd seen a table near us leave theirs uneaten. She was genuinely horrified. The desserts were free but no-one came back to us about those meals. I just have no idea how they could have got that meal so terribly wrong.

Our desserts were actually pretty nice but no photos taken. Brownies maybe?

The rain continued to pound down and the wind howl. When we got back to the tent there was water across the floor. We weren't surprised. It was actually just coming in on the seem where the tie was sewn in. We pushed it down the side of the floor and the water ran away

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James Squire ginger beer - a new favourite to find at home. Currently we drink Brookvale Union. Had a couple of these to wash down the remains of that meal.

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Despite the movement of the tent we both had a surprisingly good nights sleep with no more leaks.
 
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.... Now maybe South Aussies call a schooner a pint and a middie/pot a schooner but if not these miserable little 'free' beers (not schooners) were a sign of things to come ..
Well, they could have provided a pony, which used to be popular in SA. 😀

Although I have only visited Kangaroo Island, once, I found it somewhat underwhelming, and probably wouldn’t be in a rush to return. Plenty of mallee scrub. Somewhat limited accommodation options, but things have probably improved since then.

You do great trip reports, so please keep them up. 😀
 
The pics give me a lot of hope to return - thank you! I was worried about their bee population so hoping you can update us on them - how did they fair with the fires?
 
.... I was worried about their bee population so hoping you can update us on them - how did they fair with the fires?

The bees are doing OK ....
The poor honey bee has enough problems, and now I find out that there are bee eaters around. 😩 Well, that’s nature at work, I guess.

The honey bee is a European import that displaces the native bees, so I have no sympathy. :)

Be careful not to sing praise of the honey bee too loudly, as I found out. 😉
 
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We ran out of time to visit Clifford and the Ligurian bees but we were talking to some people who had and the bees are thriving. The rain after the fires has turned it into a cracking spring. Here’s one I captured on our last morning. Is it a Ligurian? I have no idea

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We got back to Penneshaw and our tent before dark but were nevertheless constantly on the look out for suicidal wallabies and roos.

Wallaby alley just above the drop down into Penneshaw

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We saw literally hundreds of dead marsupials over our three days on the island.

Dinner at Penneshaw Hotel The Penneshaw Hotel, Kangaroo Island, South Australia was booked when we checked in the previous day. We had a $30 meal voucher plus two schooners of tap beer or house wine. Now maybe South Aussies call a schooner a pint and a middie/pot a schooner but if not these miserable little 'free' beers (not schooners) were a sign of things to come

View attachment 229943

The special of the night - rolled pork with herb stuffing and roast vegetables - sounded great and that's what we ordered. We waited, and waited and when I saw a table who had come in half an hour after us get their meals I decided we'd waited long enough. Just as I was about to get up and ask the meals were put on our table. They looked pretty nice although what should have been crackle definitely wasn't. Another red flag?

View attachment 229944

bigal cut into his and asked how mine was. I tried and said a little tough. I persisted and ate maybe half of mine. Al gave up and ate his veg. I have the ears of my mother and heard someone at another table say their meal was inedible. I could see it was the pork. The young waitress cleared the table and didn't even ask about why both meals were pretty much uneaten.

We're gluttons for punishment so decided we'd give dessert a go. I was asked how are mains were while I was ordering dessert and I said we don't usually complain but they were horrible. I told who I'm guessing was the bar manager you couldn't cut the pork and that I'd seen a table near us leave theirs uneaten. She was genuinely horrified. The desserts were free but no-one came back to us about those meals. I just have no idea how they could have got that meal so terribly wrong.

Our desserts were actually pretty nice but no photos taken. Brownies maybe?

The rain continued to pound down and the wind howl. When we got back to the tent there was water across the floor. We weren't surprised. It was actually just coming in on the seem where the tie was sewn in. We pushed it down the side of the floor and the water ran away

View attachment 229945

James Squire ginger beer - a new favourite to find at home. Currently we drink Brookvale Union. Had a couple of these to wash down the remains of that meal.

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Despite the movement of the tent we both had a surprisingly good nights sleep with no more leaks.
I know there are great restaurants or were, in the 6 * establishments, but we have usually been disappointed with both food and service (think, laid back country style (She'll be right) with five star prices)

We call Kangaroo Island, Dead Kangaroo Island. Coz, well, "I seen it first" (road kill) was the usual saying of our then teenage kids when we visited KI.
 
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The sun was out when we woke up on Monday morning.

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Some people truly are mad. This young guy had been here through two nights of rain in this tiny tent

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and I didn't get a shot of the tent that wasn't much bigger than a swag that a motorcyclist was staying in

This one was much fancier. We drove past when the tent was open it was truly glamping - a sofa and a lamp and other stuff. We were to see this tent set up at a much fancier location the next day...

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The first ferry of the day arriving

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No idea what this is but it is quite beautiful. The KI Seafront Hotel is just up the road from here

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A rainbow at breakfast

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and some locals who didn't quite get we wouldn't be chucking any chips their way

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As we were driving back to Penneshaw the previous afternoon we'd decided we'd investigate hiring another car for the last 24 hours of our trip so that we could see the parts of the island that were currently off limits. We thought there was only budget so we went to the office that had a number of Outlander PHEVs sitting outside but they were closed. The sign said go to the Sealink terminal. The Budget desk wasn't attended and it had a sign to go to the Sealink desk. We tried that and they directed us to the desk or the office. Mmm...

We drove back up to the office and realised that next door to Budget was KI Connect, the local ferry and car hire company Kangaroo Island Connect – Ferry, Campervans and Car Hire. I wish I had asked the name of the lady who was running the office. I want her to be my second sister. She could not have been nicer. All of their cars could be driven on any gazetted road. They had a VW Polo for $75, Mitsi ASX for $99 or Outlanders at $120. We went with the ASX and would pick it up after we got back from snorkelling with some seals...
 
As previously mentioned we decided to snorkel with Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari 2 hour Snorkelling Safari – Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari

A 12 start time kind of throws your day. We had breakfast, moseyed around town, booked the car, had good coffee and delicious beetroot and ginger cake at Millie May's Pantry HOME | mysite and were still way early at the harbour for the trip. There was another couple waiting with us. We'd read the email saying 11:30 arrival for a 12 departure. The other group hadn't. Elijah the skipper gave them a call at 11:40 and asked them how far away they were. Their GPS said 21 minutes and they'd be on time. Elijah said no, they'd be 30 minutes late...

The four of us were taken up to their 'office' where we squeezed into wetsuits. My first had a couple of huge holes, not a good thing when the water temp is 13 Celsius. The other guy's was also holey. I know things are tough but at $150 per person these trips aren't cheap and coughpy wet suits are inexcusable. That's $1800 per full boat.

The large, very exuberant and very late group arrived at the office well after 12. Us on time four were taken down to the boat first

I was the only one not in black...

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It was 12:30 by the time the other eight were onboard. The morning sun was replaced by very cold rain as we headed east. Late they might have been but our Persian semi-rigid-mates were hilarious. They whooped and sang and shrieked for pretty much the whole two hours, including when they were in the water. Their joy was infectious.

The tour was snorkelling with seals and dolphins. There's a pod of about 30 dolphins that move between Frenchman's Beach and west along the coast towards Kangaroo Head. We spotted a small group of them straight away at Frenchman's but because a ferry was arriving we weren't allowed in the water :(

A quick 15 minute trip along the coast had us at our seal snorkelling spot. Neither of us remembered to take a single picture with our phones but in our defence it was raining on and off. I've taken some single frames out of the movies I took with our Sony action cam.

Until the week before and a conversation with a workmate I hadn't considered that cage diving with great whites is an SA tourist attraction. To allay those 'back of my mind' fears an electronic shark repeller was hung off the bow of the boat. We were told not to touch it! We've been in the water with sharks before, just not great whites...

Young Elijah our skipper.

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We also had Leo with us who was in the water the whole time. He was constantly ducking down into the water and letting us know when a seal was anywhere near. I managed to see one in the water twice. The visibility underwater was cough and as it wasn't sunny until just before we got out the half dozen or so seals on the rocks weren't interested in getting in the water with us. From a seal perspective I'd give this trip a 2/10.

The water was bloody freezing but after we'd been in a couple of minutes we all became a bit numb to the cold. I'm not sure how long we were in the water. I'd be surprised if it was 20 minutes but who knows.

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look closely and just to right of centre is one of the half dozen or so seals

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Everyone was so bloody cold when we got out. A couple of the Persian group were shaking horribly so bigal gave one his jacket and one of the couple who we met at the start gave the other girl his. They were incredibly grateful.

Back to Frenchman's and the dolphins had moved on so we motored south in search of the pod to no avail. Wildlife tours are pot luck and today hadn't been our day.

Just as we were about to head in I saw a splash in the far distance, knew it wasn't a boat and suggested it might have been a whale breaching. We all looked towards where I'd seen it and then the whale breached again so we were off. Fin slapping and breaching galore. I'm pretty sure it was a mother and calf or two juveniles.

2/10 for seals. 1/10 for dolphins. 9/10 for the humpback/s courtesy of me somehow spotting it without my glasses on!!

A bit blurry as these are frames from movies taken on my iPhone and then cropped. We sat and watched it/them for a good 20 minutes. Fantastic.

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Leo and Elijah were so excited to have seen them. They shook my hand multiple times after we got off the boat.

We had all of our gear either with us or in the car in the carpark above the harbour so we did a cold strip on the dock and into our dry and warm clothes. It mightn't have been what we'd been hoping for but it had been a great couple of hours.
 
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As previously mentioned we decided to snorkel with Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari 2 hour Snorkelling Safari – Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari

A 12 start time kind of throws your day. We had breakfast, moseyed around town, booked the car, had good coffee and delicious beetroot and ginger cake at Millie May's Pantry HOME | mysite and were still way early at the harbour for the trip. There was another couple waiting with us. We'd read the email saying 11:30 arrival for a 12 departure. The other group hadn't. Elijah the skipper gave them a call at 11:40 and asked them how far away they were. Their GPS said 21 minutes and they'd be on time. Elijah said no, they'd be 30 minutes late...

The four of us were taken up to their 'office' where we squeezed into wetsuits. My first had a couple of huge holes, not a good thing when the water temp is 13 Celsius. The other guy's was also holey. I know things are tough but at $150 per person these trips aren't cheap and coughpy wet suits are inexcusable. That's $1800 per full boat.

The large, very exuberant and very late group arrived at the office well after 12. Us on time four were taken down to the boat first

I was the only one not in black...

View attachment 230042

It was 12:30 by the time the other eight were onboard. The morning sun was replaced by very cold rain as we headed east. Late they might have been but our Persian semi-rigid-mates were hilarious. They whooped and sang and shrieked for pretty much the whole two hours, including when they were in the water. Their joy was infectious.

The tour was snorkelling with seals and dolphins. There's a pod of about 30 dolphins that move between Frenchman's Beach and west along the coast towards Kangaroo Head. We spotted a small group of them straight away at Frenchman's but because a ferry was arriving we weren't allowed in the water :(

A quick 15 minute trip along the coast had us at our seal snorkelling spot. Neither of us remembered to take a single picture with our phones but in our defence it was raining on and off. I've taken some single frames out of the movies I took with our Sony action cam.

Until the week before and a conversation with a workmate I hadn't considered that cage diving with great whites is an SA tourist attraction. To allay those 'back of my mind' fears an electronic shark repeller was hung off the bow of the boat. We were told not to touch it! We've been in the water with sharks before, just not great whites...

Young Elijah our skipper.

View attachment 230043

We also had Leo with us who was in the water the whole time. He was constantly ducking down into the water and letting us know when a seal was anywhere near. I managed to see one in the water twice. The visibility underwater was cough and as it wasn't sunny until just before we got out the half dozen or so seals on the rocks weren't interested in getting in the water with us. From a seal perspective I'd give this trip a 2/10.

The water was bloody freezing but after we'd been in a couple of minutes we all became a bit numb to the cold. I'm not sure how long we were in the water. I'd be surprised if it was 20 minutes but who knows.

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look closely and just to right of centre is one of the half dozen or so seals

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Everyone was so bloody cold when we got out. A couple of the Persian group were shaking horribly so bigal gave one his jacket and one of the couple who we met at the start gave the other girl his. They were incredibly grateful.

Back to Frenchman's and the dolphins had moved on so we motored south in search of the pod to no avail. Wildlife tours are pot luck and today hadn't been our day.

Just as we were about to head in I saw a splash in the far distance, knew it wasn't a boat and suggested it might have been a whale breaching. We all looked towards where I'd seen it and then the whale breached again so we were off. Fin slapping and breaching galore. I'm pretty sure it was a mother and calf or two juveniles.

2/10 for seals. 1/10 for dolphins. 9/10 for the humpback/s courtesy of me somehow spotting it without my glasses on!!

A bit blurry as these are frames from movies taken on my iPhone and then cropped. We sat and watched it/them for a good 20 minutes. Fantastic.

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Leo and Elijah were so excited to have seen them. They shook my hand multiple times after we got off the boat.

We had all of our gear either with us or in the car in the carpark above the harbour so we did a cold strip on the dock and into our dry and warm clothes. It mightn't have been what we'd been hoping for but it had been a great couple of hours.
You've already seen the seals. Whales are so much better!
 
A quick mention of Kangaroo Island Connect. Sealink has the only vehicle ferries to the island. KIC Kangaroo Island Connect – Ferry, Campervans and Car Hire has a small fast ferry that at the moment is only running one return trip but that will increase over summer. It's half the price of Sealink. They offer car rental on the island that is MUCH cheaper than budget. From what I can work out it is also locally owned. I wish them luck.

The late start meant our plans for the afternoon had to change. We only had time for one winery and the lighthouse. Dudley was closest. We didn't care what we did because the sun was out!

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We picked up the new car from my sister from another mother and as part of the paperwork I was handed a 'kic club' card. This card would give us various discounts at places all across the island Club – Kangaroo Island Connect and over the next 20+ hours we just about paid for our car rental.

We were onto unsealed within a few minutes and if we'd been in the Yaris would have been in breach of our rental contract. The road was the smoothest unsealed road either of us had driven on. For us the only worry was attack by suicidal wallabies and roos!

We arrived at the fairly picturesque Dudley cellar door just after 3:30pm Dudley Wines Kangaroo Island - Dudley Wines. By the time we got inside and ready to taste some wine it was closer to 3:40 and kitchen closed at 3:30. We'd had no lunch so tried our luck and asked if it was still possible to get a cheese platter. Of course it was. So we tasted some very nice wines, scoffed down a delicious antipasti platter and stared out across the ocean. The kic club offer at Dudley was buy one wine get one free. We shared a flight and the platter and bought a dozen bottles instead, including to us a very special wine - The Stud Shiraz. We won't be sharing that one. Free postage and 10% discount for buying a dozen.

Dudley cellar door

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It was then eastwards through the beautiful eastern island countryside

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The roadway down to the Lighthouse is steepish from memory and it is/was dirt, plus rounded pebbles when we went on it. We were in a pajero, many years ago, and applying the breaks to slow a bit didn't work as it was like skating on those pebbles and instead slowing the whole car, the car started turning around and going down at an angle! Freakin scary. Looks like they have graded it better now.
 
We should have asked someone about the missing penguins. One end of Frenchman's had penguin boxes and a hide and a building for penguin tours but it looked very abandoned. Dogs? Who knows. Instead we watched a lovely little wren fight himself in a car window

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we had ribs and squid for dinner from Fire and Smoke Ki who were completely inundated and clearly not coping with the unexpected number of people in town. We heard the next day that Saturday and Sunday had been the busiest days EVER for some businesses in town. We also finished off our KI beers

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The forecast was positive for our last day on KI and it was fine when we opened the curtains. The one thing I wish we'd done was walk the sculpture trail that ran right beside our tent. The weather and time were against us Kangaroo Island Sculpture Trail

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We'd had another leak in the tent over night but the rain had been as bad as it had been. These tents were untested on Kangaroo and we both think ours coped pretty well. We have no idea how the other five faired.

Breakfast was easy and managed well. Each morning we left the card for the next. The Sorrento Restaurant at KI Seafront was closed except for people on a breakfast package staying there or in one of the eco tents

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A couple more pics of the tent and surrounds

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The little car that couldn't and the slightly bigger car that could

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Our plan for day four

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Virtually a local now as we drove west to our first stop at American River. This was my third drive on this road.

I'd considered AR when we first started planning but eventually decided unless we stayed at Mercure, and it didn't appeal to either of us, that it was self-catering only. Nope. A really pretty little village on a beautiful river. We actually will self-cater when we eventually return to KI and will definitely spend a night or two at American River.

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As far as I know the only other place to eat in KR apart from the Mercure - The Deck

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We then went the long, un-sealed way back to the main road.

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Nepean Bay with Kingscote on the opposite shore

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