I did a lot of research before visiting Cuba, knowing that it would be a v different experience than that which I'm used to when travelling. It's almost impossible to summarise, but I'll give it a go:
- Most Australian-issued cards will not work, due to affiliations with banks in the US
- For that matter, good luck finding anywhere that accepts credit cards at all - cash is basically the only way to go
- There are two currencies - the Convertible Peso (CUC), which is the tourist money and the Cuban Peso (CUP), which is the 'moneda nacional'. 1 CUC = 24 CUP, so it's incredibly important to know the difference!
- Internet access is fairly limited; there are apparently a few top hotels that have WiFi, but I never found any of this mythical stuff. Most of the tourist hotels have a PC or two in the lobby, and you can buy access cards from them (assuming they haven't run out). Internet access is really slow (think dialup) and there are no printing facilities or anything of the kind that I noticed.
- You can spend a large amount of money on hotels in Cuba, but I don't have that sort of cash. For around AUD $120 - $150 a night, the hotels you'll find (including the one I stayed at) are well air-conditioned (a necessity!), have staff that speak at least some English and the rooms will have mostly uncomfortable beds and mostly clean bathrooms. I slept in a single bed for the first time in god knows how long. :shock: Generally speaking, don't expect much and you won't be disappointed.
- Local water isn't potable, however buying bottles of water is easy and cheap. You even get a choice of still or sparkling!
- Food is somewhat disappointing. Consider that the local speciality is 'Ropa Vieja' (translated literally, "old clothes" - it's actually a spiced minced beef dish) and you start to get an idea. Vego food is mostly non-existant, so I ended up ordering a lot of side dishes. The style of the dining rooms and menus is imported straight out of the 70s and 80s, so loads of garish paint, tired furnishings and large amounts of (poorly prepared) lobster for dinner. I had to keep reminding myself that it's a communist country, so the restaurants are all run by the state to give people a job - ability is a secondary consideration.
- If you want to eat well, do something I should have done but didn't - visit a 'paladar', which is a restaurant run out of someones' house. It's one of the few ways in which Cubans are allowed to earn money of their own making, and the food is reputed to be of a generally excellent standard.
- Being a skinny white man, "blending in" is somewhat impossible. Havana is a good city to look like a tourist in though; the attitude towards tourists is fairly positive.
- People tend to be really friendly - just keep in mind that there's always something they want. I had some great conversations and recommendations for places to go and see for the price of a mojito, but there were a number of times someone stopped me in the street for a chat and then wanted to sell me cigars. 'No moleste, per favor' (Please don't bother me) became a v handy phrase to know!
- It seems everyone knows where the Buena Vista Social Club is playing (at at least 8 different bars, all at the same time!) How much of a scam it is I don't know, but I was perfectly happy listening to the "regular" musicians at various bars so I didn't try to find out.
- The historic sights of the city are well worth seeing; buildings like El Capitolio really give you a sense of just how much money Cuba used to have in the early 1900's. To get in to many of them, you have to pay a few CUC to get in and a few CUC extra to bring the camera. Not at all expensive, but a rip-off compared to the prices for the locals, which are generally the same figures but in CUP instead.
- In terms of public transport, there are buses - but you will need fairly decent Spanish and the local money to use it. I think they assume that no-one apart from the locals are going to use it, so it's not set up for tourists at all. It's easy enough to walk everywhere in Havana, or catch a taxi (pretty cheap!) if you'd rather not.
- If you're looking for something other than rum, cigars or touristy souvenirs, don't expect to find much. The local fashion industry is basically non-existant and the only boutiques I saw were for Adidas and Puma. I'd recommend forgetting the shopping and enjoy another mojito instead..
- Speaking of rum, Havana Club is incredibly cheap in Cuba (around CUC 5 for a 750 mL bottle, less for locals) and there is a substantial range available, of which we only see one type in Australia I think. I can easily understand how drinking is the national past-time!
- I figured it would be a put-on job for the tourists, but salsa music really is everywhere. Most restaurants and bars seemed to have a band playing, and the locals seem to listen to it in their cars and at home as well. I ventured out to a club one night and even the dance music played by DJs is salsa-based!
There is so much more that I could write, but it's a start. Each day I'd wake up and walk around the city, taking in a few more of the sights and several mojitos (it's incredibly hot in Cuba and I needed to keep my fluids up!)
I had a minor accommodation crisis after the first day - I was supposed to meet a local tour guide who was going to show me around and find me a 'Casa Particular' (basically a bed and breakfast), but they never showed up. Fortunately I had the cash to extend my stay at my hotel! I was worried that the accommodation issues were an omen of further bad tidings, but it was the only thing that went wrong during my stay.
Given I didn't have my pre-arranged tour guide, I figured I could show myself around the city - but one of the "registered tour guides" (whatever that means) stopped me in the street and convinced me to part with a little cash so he could show me around. A capital idea! We walked all around the old part of the city while he explained the significance and history of some of the buildings, so I'd count it as money very well spent.
My daily routine ended up being waking up, going downstairs to endure brekkie at the hotel, walk around, see some museums or interesting buildings, back to the hotel to escape the heat for an hour or so, have a late lunch somewhere, see some more sights and then have a late dinner and find a bar to drink in. The piano bar at Hotel Florida where I was staying (never mind the non-existant piano) was good fun - drinking and watching a mix of locals and tourists dancing to the salsa until the wee hours of the morning!
Soon enough, it was time to leave - and truth be told, I was looking forward to getting back to civilisation. As embarrassing as it is to admit it, I had "technology withdrawal symptoms" for the first day - it's amazing how reliant we become on having a decent Internet connection! I'd booked a taxi for a v early flight back to CUN, which showed up exactly on time and dropped me to the international terminal at HAV at 05:30...
Flight 7: MX 7323 HAV/CUN
Track Flight Status for (MX) Mexicana 7323
On-time departure: Late (never mind what flightstats.com shows)
Craft: F100
Crew: Fine
Seat: 18D
Checking in was a miserable experience. After being dropped off at the airport (CUC 25 fare again), I went looking for the Mexicana check-in and found a long line almost the depth of the concourse with no premium check-in whatsoever. cough. After waiting an eternity, I finally made it to the front of the queue and had my bag checked through to AMS and myself checked through to MEX. After paying the departure tax and having a shiny sticker attached to my boarding card, I still had some CUC left over - after a couple quick gift purchases, I exchanged the rest to EUR and went through immigration.
Outbound immigration is much the same as it is in Australia - go through customs (if you want a stamp you need to ask for one), go through security and in to the gate area. There is a shared VIP lounge which I may have been entitled to use, but I was content enough to try spending the few remaining coins I had and wander around the (v small) terminal. They have flags from all over the world hanging up in the gate area; I was a little disappointed to see no Australian flag.
By then, the sun had burnt off most of the remaining fog and I was able to see some of the planes waiting on stand. Older Russian planes for the most part, but one newer Tupolev TU-204, which was kinda cool. My chariot - a Fokker F100 in the new livery - was waiting and ready to board. I had perhaps more hand luggage than I should have had, and had watched one of the Cubana flights being boarded and hand luggage restrictions being enforced so I was a little worried I was going to get something gate checked on me. No need for concern - soon enough we were on the plane and almost ready to go.
If it wasn't for two pax sitting behind me trying to find somewhere to put their camera gear, we might have actually had an on-time departure. They rummaged around in the overhead bins, failed to find any space, argued with the staff who wanted to gate check it, looked in more overhead bins, then arguing with the staff some more ... finally they found enough space to squeeze their gear in, just as airport police boarded to deal with the "unruly pax".
Aside from that, the flight was unexciting - quick drink service, fill out arrivals forms and then preparation for landing. I'd not paid attention when my boarding card was being printed - I'd been sat right up the back next to the engines - so I was v v glad I had my noise cancelling headphones with me! We landed in to a b*s gate - my very favourite thing :shock: - and was sat on the bus for a good 10 minutes at the terminal doors before the driver acquiesced and let us off. Immigration was extremely efficient, security less so. None the less, I was landside at about 30-40 minutes after landing, so I can't complain too much.
After a quick schlep across to the domestic terminal (about the same amount of walking as you'd do at MEL for a INT>DOM connection), I was standing in the priority check-in line for the next flight. I wanted to get my bag re-tagged (they'd used two baggage tags at HAV and one had been ripped off) and a new boarding card issued for the domestic flight, as my seating allocation wasn't the best. Once that was all sorted, I went through security (remembering the no liquids rule) and headed for the lounge. If anything - more disappointing than the MEX Int'l lounge and a good bit smaller again. Reasonable self-service booze selection, PCs with possibly the slowest internet connection known to man, a small handful of seats and dirty windows looking out on to the tarmac.
I passed the time there productively by catching up on a weeks worth of e-mail and remembering to print out my BA boarding cards. As these were to be my very first BA flights, I'd never used the BA OLCI function before - v impressed with it! Leaves QF's for dead. Enter PNR and surname, select flight(s) you want to check in, select seat(s) and then you can print, e-mail, fax or pick the boarding card(s) up at the airport. Plus, there's an iPhone friendly version if you're that way inclined; obviously no print function but the other options remain available.
So, with a decent seat secured for the next flight, a boarding card for the flight following so I can clear security for the next flight and several gins polished off, it was time for the next flight...
Flight 8: MX 344 CUN/MEX
Track Flight Status for (MX) Mexicana 344
On-time departure: On-time
Craft: A320
Crew: Friendly
Seat: 12D
This flight was much the same as my first Mexicana flight (including having the same seat); just goes to show that the service standards are quite consistent. Good flight, decent service, on-time, etc. Nothing to complain about.
Upon landing at MEX, I headed for the Mexicana domestic lounge as I'd been told thats the one they're promoting on the website. The staff at the desk weren't sure about letting me in ("you need to clear security and use the international lounge, sir"), I convinced them I was just wanting a quick look around and I was allowed to enter. Quite a nice lounge! Not the biggest, but v comfy seats, a bunch of telly's if you want to watch something, a small selection of snack food or a proper (paid
) restaurant and bar with a more complete selection. I had a quick gin and relaxed in one of the lounge chairs, but as I was only supposed to be having a quick look (and I was reasonably certain they wouldn't give me the WiFi username and password on that basis), I decided to head for the international gates and lounges.
Passing through to the international gates is a very simple affair - a quick x-ray of bags but no need to walk through a metal detector - I found my way back to the American Airlines lounge where I set myself up on one of the lounges for the long wait to my very first British Airways flight!
That's more than enough typing from me now - more later!