Return to the Japan Alps May 2024

[Flyfrequently]

Okay, let's start from the very beginning again~~~

The House @ MEL.
A nice upgrade from the Marhaba if you ask me...

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CI passengers can choose one item from a made to order menu.
I went with the salmon and soba.
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Later relocated to this area.
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We enjoyed The House more than QP when flying CX last year @rbjhan , though not offered anything made to order.
Perhaps as it was an hour short of closing at 11.30pm.
Bonus nice runway views and now enjoying your TR.

 

[rbjhan]

We enjoyed The House more than QP when flying CX last year @rbjhan , though not offered anything made to order.
Perhaps as it was an hour short of closing at 11.30pm.
Bonus nice runway views and now enjoying your TR.

Ha that's because CX didn't pay for it..
There are tiers of services you get, all depending on how you get in.
CI passengers get everything.
Details on their website.

 

[rbjhan]

Day 4 was a Saturday.
Somehow I forgot about it and decided to visit the Castle...
Huge lines to get inside! By then I had already bought the ticket, let's soldier on!

It is most beautiful though

With the Japan Alps in the background...


Another angle


Arupu-chan, the local mascot, ninja version.




The queue....


Did I mention this is my favourite castle?

 

[rbjhan]

There were people dressing up for photo ops.


Another Arupu-chan!


I really like Arupu-chan, so....


Matsumoto City Museum
Kinda reminded me of the Toyama city library...
I am a big fan of Japanese architecture.


Lunch was at a seafood place. Yes I know that's not local cuisine, at all....but I'm not going to have soba, considering what's to come the next few days!

 

[rbjhan]

The business hotels in Matsumoto was charging some astronomical prices for Saturday night, so I was debating where to stay for quite some time...

Originally booked a ryokan in Hirayu onsen, since that's quite close to Kamikochi.
But then I found this deal for Nakanoyu onsen! 20K Yen including pick up service from Matsumoto station! And it's a Hitou!! So excited since I've never stayed at a Hitou before...

See here for what is a Hitou.

 

[rbjhan]

Shuttle bus picked us up at JR Matsumoto Station at 14:45.
Arrived at Nakanoyu Onsen a little past 4pm.


They called themselves 大自然の中の一軒宿. In Japanese ryokan world, 一軒宿 Ikenyado basically means having their own exclusive space with no other establishments in the surrounding area. Often located in very secluded areas, like in this case a forest...

 

[rbjhan]

Just a side note, Hitou generally are big on traditions and onsen, but not necessarily luxury...(the price point should tell you as much!)

Nakanoyu has 3 buildings which by Hitou standards are very big
One of them, Yake, is targeting hikers and climbers, with the lowest price, shared facilities, no lift etc, I heard the food is also different.
The one I booked, called Hotaka, is the mid tier. Have toilets in the room but no bathroom. Dinner is served in a dining hall.
The most expensive one, Kasumi, from what I can see, difference is the view, slightly larger rooms and also dinner is served in your room - I'm actually not a fan of this so easy decisions.

6 tatami room, futon was already set up.



Even though officially this room has no view....

 

[rbjhan]

Best view is from the Lobby Lounge.




There's also an irori


Notice the lantern at the back? That's the all important Hitou lantern, only members of the Hitou Association can hang this!

 

[rbjhan]

Now, the all important onsen!


There's a private bath, no reservations, first come first serve.


But the most important one is of course their public bath!


The Rotenburo is stunning!

 

[rbjhan]

Considering I only paid 20K Yen, can't really expect much of the food...
Menu


According to the menu, sashimi is local salmon...I thought Salmon is from the ocean??


Main dish is duck nabe (hot pot).


OFC there was soba!


Soup


Rice was very nice.


Dessert


Checking the menu, I realised there's one thing missing...where was the Iwana Yaki (grilled rock fish)?!
Had to chase somebody up for it...


Never happened before that one dish just went missing...unfortunately it wasn't even good! Too salty and honestly I'm not a fan of fresh water fish, at all.

 

[rbjhan]

Breakfast, meh


The home made tofu was very good though!


Best quality of the meals was the Dining Hall with great view

 

[rbjhan]

So, to summarise, great onsen, average room and food was just okay.
But considering the price, I'd say it's very good value - especially if you book the shuttle bus from Matsumoto.
If you are going to Kamikochi, this is an excellent choice (to stay before or after).

 

[rbjhan]

In the morning Nakanoyu runs two shuttle buses to Kamikochi at 8am & 9am.
Then there's the bus back to Matsumoto from Kamikochi bus terminal at 12:30 I think?
So in theory you can have about 4 hours in Kamikochi and back to Matsumoto with zero transport costs!

I have however booked 2 nights in Kamikochi, so took the 9am bus and got off at Taisho Ike (Ike = Pond).

Kamikochi 上高地, if you want to know more...

Japan Alps Kamikochi Official Website

Chubu Sangaku National Park

www.kamikochi.org

In short, Kamikochi is a 15km long valley along the Azusa River, about 1500m above sea level. Surrounded by mountains such as Nishi Hotaka Dake, Oku Hotaka Dake(3190M), Mae Hotaka Dake, Yake Dake, Myojin Dake...etc. These are all part of Chubu Sangaku National Park.

A map is necessary!
Otherwise you won't know what I'm talking about for the next few chapters



At the Southern end, Nakanoyu onsen is already in the Kamikochi restricted area (private cars are banned). If travel by car you can only reach either Hirayu or Sawando car park, from there take the bus or taxi to Kamikochi.
Bus terminal near Kappa Bashi is where most day trippers get off. You can start from Taisho Ike and hike all the way to Myojin Ike and back, I think that would be the limit for a day trip.

Beyond Myojin Ike, it's turing into more of a hiker/climber world. From Yokoo upwards there's proper mountain excursions to be done.

 

[rbjhan]

So I started from Taisho Ike at about 9:30am.

Weather was not great that day, unfortunately.
Rain was forecasted later in the afternoon and the next day

大正池 Taisho Ike
Formed in 1915 when nearby Mt YakeDake erupted and dammed the Azusa River.




Apparently May to July is black bear season! I bought a bear bell already...
And there are big ones set up in some places too.




田代池 Tashiro Ike
More like a marsh than pond if you ask me...

 

[rbjhan]

After Tashiro Ike there's River Course and Forest Course to reach Tashiro Bashi (Bashi = Bridge).



I took the River course.


After Tashiro Bashi I went the left side course.
Reached Kappa Bashi at about 11:30. So it took roughly two hours.
Yeah, the official guide says 76 mins from Taisho Ike to Kappa Bashi. I guess if you walk fast and don't take pictures that's possible?

 

[rbjhan]

The bus terminal/Kappa Bashi area is the centre of Kamikochi!
Hotels, restaurants, shops, information centre, all here.



I had Shinshu salmon on rice for lunch.


Near Kappa Bashi you have the best view of Hotaka Peaks & Mt MyojinDake.

 

[rbjhan]

After lunch I chose the right side course to go to Myojin Ike.


This part of the tracks were not as scenic as the previous one...
Mostly walked in the woods.

岳沢湿原 Dakesawa Marsh


Reached Myojin Ike 明神池 at about 2pm.


The weather was really not helping here...
More pictures of Myojin Ike to come the next day!


Outside the pond you have the Hotaka Shrine.


And I got a nice Shuin!

 

[rbjhan]

Checked into Myojin-Kan.
I had a private room - yes, even though Myojin Kan is a mountain hut, they have private rooms


You do need to make your own bed though...


And public bath!!
Nothing better than a soak after all the hiking...(bath opens only 3-8pm)


All shared facilities of course.


Lounge was very cozy.


This was about 3pm I think?
According to my weather app rain was gonna drop any minute. So I decided not to go to Tokusawa area. Instead just hang around and wait for dinner

There's a warning about monkeys..


And I quickly saw why!

 

[rbjhan]

Only one seating for dinner at 6pm.


Food was actually not bad!
I'd say better than Nakanoyu, tasted good and they didn't forget anything!
But yes, more soba and Iwana Yaki....



Lights off at 9:30 pm and that's the end of Day 5.

Note: Dorm beds were 14K Yen per person per night, I paid 21K for my room (all plans including two meals). However I believe there are some days (weekends etc) solo travelers can't book private rooms due to high demand...
Also because they are off grid, after 9:30pm they switch to a nighttime circuit. Guest room lights off, and the power points won't work either.

 

[rbjhan]

Not sure when the rain started, but it was going strong when I woke up the next morning at about 5:30am....
I debated whether to go to Myojin Ike....it was COLD outside...but the whole reason I chose to stay here for the night (instead of more comfortable hotels near Kappa Bashi) was to see Myojin Ike in the early morning!

Eventually got up at about 6am, put all my clothes on, borrowed an umbrella from the front desk, off we went!

Myojin Bashi was looking mythical




Myojin Ike opens at 6am every day. Yeah, forgot to mention, here you need to pay 500 Yen to enter.
This is the only place inside Kamikochi charges for entry.


Ooooh The mist made it look so much better than the day before!



Was even a hint of blue there....maybe the rain would stop??