Self-tour vs organised tours in Israel & Jordan

[Happy Dude]

Self driving in Jordan was very easy, way easier than say Italy. Just watch out for cops checking speed….

I got pinged and fine issued on the spot. The rental car guys helped me sort it when I dropped off the car. Fine was around AUD $40.

 

[ALH]

The only thing I would flag is that whilst Israel has wised up on passport stamps, the default for some of the Jordan crossings is a stamp. This can be used against you by some overzealous countries in the future (looking at you, Lebanon) because it names the crossing. They will stamp separately if you ask but it's worth keeping an eye on it in the chaos.

Overnight in the Wadi Rum was highly memorable for MrsG.

Good to know. I’m in the Wadi Rum end of March. Also self driving in Jordan.

I’ll definitely be using a golf cart at Petra.

 

[Flashback]

Alright, so everything is booked. A brief rundown of the itinerary:

• Day 1 arrive and get the train (with only a few stops on the metro) straight from Ben Gurion to Jerusalem, another option was Nesher Tours (Transportation services – "Nesher" Tours and taxi service cooperative society) which also runs on Shabbat if needed; but the train option is also quick, quite a bit cheaper and drops us right near our accommodation anyway. Wander around Jerusalem in the evening.
• Day 2-3 Jerusalem sight seeing
• Day 4 Day trip to West Bank (organised tour - still tossing up between booking via Viator (pretty much same itinerary, decent reviews etc. but far cheaper) vs Abraham Tours)
• Day 5 Jerusalem sight seeing
• Day 6 Pickup car ($196 with Hertz via AutoSlash, no one else could get close price wise... insurance is done differently here and you either have to buy theirs, or you have to provide a letter from your c/c company (AMEX Plat Charge Card in this instance for me) with very specific details; they won't accept a standalone car rental policy) and head for Masada, Dead See, Ein Gedi - stopping at some wineries along the way and doing some short hikes
• Day 7 Mitze Ramon sightseeing and hiking through the Negev desert etc. Pass by (and have a look at) the Ben Gurion grave.
• Day 8 Continue making our way to Eilat via Timna Park (hiking) and the Red Canyon, drop off the car just before closure and then make our way to the border via taxi, crossing over into Aqaba before it closes at 8pm (110-116 NIS p/p to 'exit'), entry into Jordan will be covered by a) the fact we're spending more than 2 nights and visiting Petra but also b) Note: safer option as things seem to keep changing, purchase of the Jordan Pass (Jordan Pass) which we'll get value out of anyway
• Day 9 Chill in Aqaba (swimming, snorkel in dead sea etc.), pickup the car at lunch time ($81 USD for 3 days, automatic, via AutoSlash - nowhere else could get even remotely close price wise ($100+ more), also includes the 1 way drop off fee) and drive to Wadi Rum Visitors Centre. We will be picked up from there and taken on a half day (4-5 hours) jeep tour, then spend overnight at a Bedouin camp and have a traditional Zarb meal etc. These companies are a dime a dozen, they're much of a muchness but we found one with decent reviews that takes card and PayPal payment - brilliant.
• Day 10 Dropped back to the car, straight up to Petra, arrive mid morning but take our time exploring and stay there right till late when the shadows hit at the right angle again and it's quietened down; depart Petra and head for a 2.5'ish hour drive up to Kerak
• Day 11 Kerak castle, Dead sea (great little spot to 'do the dead sea' without a lot of the hassle that goes with it (Dead sea free swimming · 65, Jordan). Access to the beach is free, parking is easy, but more importantly 5 JOD per person for a mud treatment and shower after. Suggest using an old pair of swimmers or ones you don't care about.... as they may not be of much use after. Continue on to Madaba after and if time permits, Jerash..... but potentially leave Jerash till the next morning. Arrive into Amman for final night in Jordan.
• Day 12 Go to Jerash if we didn't have time / too tired the day prior, drop the car back at midday and then taxi (you can drop rental cars there, but the extra fee didn't stack up for us in this instance; you can also pickup there too.....) to the King Hussein border crossing and go through the rigmarole there to cross (25 JOD Taxi, 2x 10-15 JOD exit, 2x 7.5 JOD 1km bus + 3-6 JOD for bags, 2x anywhere from 15-47 ILS for shuttle / shared taxi to Jerusalem). It might drop you at the bus office, rather than the central station or Damascus gate so have to factor that in. From wherever we end up.... train to Tel Aviv and put our feet up for the evening.
• Day 13 Tel Aviv sightseeing / beach etc.
• Day 14 Depart for home at OMG O'clock

Sounds exhausting? That's how we roll. I hope this is at least of use to someone, I've learnt a lot during the process and more than happy to answer any questions you might have. All accommodation booked/paid via either booking.com or hotels.com, or using HH / IHG points. Important for Jordan where it's largely cash cash cash, we've been able to avoid as much of that as possible, other than that first taxi when we cross the border.......

Some of the hotels booked using points were an absolute steal getting up to 0.6p / point value.

 

[Pushka]

What are the dates? Avoiding Jerusalem Day ?

 

[Flashback]

What are the dates? Avoiding Jerusalem Day ?

Early April to late April, so covers a good chunk of Passover.

 

[Pushka]

Early April to late April, so covers a good chunk of Passover.

And Ramadan then?

 

[MARTINE]

In Tel Aviv - Bread and Co on corner of Ben Gurion and Ben Yehuda is a great cafe/breakfast/pastries etc - highly recommend
I cant get link to their website to work

הגעתם לסוזאנה

כבר 27 שנים סוזאנה מגישה מאזטים, מרקים, ממולאים, דגים ובשרים. אנחנו פתוחים 12 שעות בכל יום לארוחת צהריים, ערב ומה שביניהן 03-5177580

www.suzanatlv.co.il

Here is my other favorite and is in a fantastic neighborhood /Neve Tzedek



Tel Aviv - you will find very different in terms of shops etc being open during Passover/Shabbat

 

[Flashback]

And Ramadan then?

Indeed, we leave Amman just before Ramadan ends.

In Tel Aviv - Bread and Co on corner of Ben Gurion and Ben Yehuda is a great cafe/breakfast/pastries etc - highly recommend
I cant get link to their website to work

הגעתם לסוזאנה

כבר 27 שנים סוזאנה מגישה מאזטים, מרקים, ממולאים, דגים ובשרים. אנחנו פתוחים 12 שעות בכל יום לארוחת צהריים, ערב ומה שביניהן 03-5177580

www.suzanatlv.co.il

Here is my other favorite and is in a fantastic neighborhood /Neve Tzedek



Tel Aviv - you will find very different in terms of shops etc being open during Passover/Shabbat

Not staying in Tel Aviv right until the end and Passover will be well and truly finished. Already have a driver sorted for the trip to the airport when we leave as it's Shabbat then. Seems to attract a slight price premium.

 

[Pushka]

Indeed, we leave Amman just before Ramadan ends.

Not staying in Tel Aviv right until the end and Passover will be well and truly finished. Already have a driver sorted for the trip to the airport when we leave as it's Shabbat then. Seems to attract a slight price premium.

We've been told we can't take photos at Western Wall as it will be Shabbat. I'm guessing our driver won't be orthodox as well on that day. As we go into Palestine on that day that seems very likely.

 

[Flashback]

Have been in Jerusalem since Sunday, lots of places are closed down for all of Passover (rather than just the first/last day) and just headed into the final day of it now; it's like a ghost town (sunset tonight till sunset tomorrow). We found a nice little place for an early dinner which we've eaten at 2 days in a row now, Armenian Tavern just on the outskirts of the old city past Jaffa Gate. Some interesting dishes, reasonably priced and interesting decoration in the restaurant.

Several people raised concerns about us going given the recent events, but it's all felt pretty safe and normal here so no reservations at all.

Off to the West Bank tomorrow.

Bank Hapoalim worked fine for fee-free ATM withdrawals although have rarely needed to use cash, in fact I think everywhere we've been (except small pokey places) take care if you ask. Always worth having a few shekels to hand though of course.

 

[Pushka]

Have been in Jerusalem since Sunday, lots of places are closed down for all of Passover (rather than just the first/last day) and just headed into the final day of it now; it's like a ghost town (sunset tonight till sunset tomorrow). We found a nice little place for an early dinner which we've eaten at 2 days in a row now, Armenian Tavern just on the outskirts of the old city past Jaffa Gate. Some interesting dishes, reasonably priced and interesting decoration in the restaurant.

Several people raised concerns about us going given the recent events, but it's all felt pretty safe and normal here so no reservations at all.

Off to the West Bank tomorrow.

Bank Hapoalim worked fine for fee-free ATM withdrawals although have rarely needed to use cash, in fact I think everywhere we've been (except small pokey places) take care if you ask. Always worth having a few shekels to hand though of course.

A test will be next week when a sister cruise ship to the one we are on enters Haifa on the world cruise. Cruise line is very conservative when it comes to risk, eg the first ones to close down when whiffs of Covid started. So far they are still going to Haifa. But 50/50 according to passengers. We will follow on a cruise ship three weeks later. But a day after May 19. I don't expect to make it. Which will be disappointing for all the tours I've arranged. Saturdays appear to be the risk day and that's the day we get there.

 

[Flashback]

A test will be next week when a sister cruise ship to the one we are on enters Haifa on the world cruise. Cruise line is very conservative when it comes to risk, eg the first ones to close down when whiffs of Covid started. So far they are still going to Haifa. But 50/50 according to passengers. We will follow on a cruise ship three weeks later. But a day after May 19. I don't expect to make it. Which will be disappointing for all the tours I've arranged. Saturdays appear to be the risk day and that's the day we get there.

What is the risk up in Haifa?

 

[Pushka]

What is the risk up in Haifa?

Haifa is just the port. Considered safer than the others. But people don't stay in the port. We are touring to Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Galilee. There's no point going to Israel if only staying in Haifa.

 

[Flashback]

Haifa is just the port. Considered safer than the others. But people don't stay in the port. We are touring to Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Galilee. There's no point going to Israel if only staying in Haifa.

Indeed but all those places have been safe as houses. Will report back on West Bank later today although looks like thunderstorms all day.

 

[Pushka]

Indeed but all those places have been safe as houses. Will report back on West Bank later today although looks like thunderstorms all day.

Cruise ships use a different level of risk assessment to people doing land tours. Ships are targets.

 

[Flashback]

It was dead quiet in West Bank, no signs of unrest, trouble, or even people that might be. I'm sure you'll be absolutely fine.

 

[MARTINE]

It was dead quiet in West Bank, no signs of unrest, trouble, or even people that might be. I'm sure you'll be absolutely fine.

I am glad to hear your trip has passed without incident @Flashback . Israel was one of the most fascinating places on earth I have travelled (irrespective of religious beliefs). When I went I felt incredibly safe. The safety of tourists is taken very seriously with retaliations harsh; it is ironically one of those cauldrons of conflict (observation not judgement) where I felt safer than parts of downtown Melbourne at Night.

 

[Pushka]

It was dead quiet in West Bank, no signs of unrest, trouble, or even people that might be. I'm sure you'll be absolutely fine.

The ultimate decision won’t be ours to make but a corporation.

 

[Flashback]

I can thoroughly Alawneh Exchange for currency exchange, no commission and I got bang on the spot rate pretty much.

We changed $340 USD for 241 JOD (spot rate was telling me 241.17).


They seem to take GBP, AUD, etc. also which is pretty good.

I got stung changing some NIS/ILS just before I crossed over from Eilat, then saw these guys on the Jordan side. Lesson learned - but no one else seemed to have mentioned the place existed, so now we know.

They seem to be a chain and have locations all over the place so worth looking into. If I had of known, I wouldn't have changed £300 into $USD before I left. C'est la vie

It's all been pretty easy and Jordan is really so much more relaxed and chilled out than Israel, plus the people have been a lot friendlier too and actually seem to want tourists there.

 

[RooFlyer]

I wouldn't have changed £300 into $USD before I left.

Wouldn’t it get changed into Dinar in between? Cheap rates, but might that not be so cheap?