Seoul to Seoul (Re-mastered)

[Noel Mugavin]

The fruit standThe next 10km or so are some of the most scenic of the whole route; cherry blossoms lines a lot of the streams I rode byAfter about an hour of riding made it into Jeomchon, the administrative centre of Mungyeong. Late morning and finally able to get my coffee.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

The cross country trek entails riding 4 paths - Ara Waterway, Han River, Saejae and Nakdong River Path. Little quirk of the Nakdong is that it starts at Andong, about 70km east of Jeomchon. However, you don;t need to ride that portion to achieve the Cross-Country, you do however to achieve the Nakdong, 4 Rivers and the Grand Slam of the Korean Paths. My long term goal is to complete all 12 paths to achieve the grand Slam, so riding to 70k's to or from to Andong was in my plans for this trip.
My initial plan was to have an afternoon off in Jeomchon, ride to Andong the next day, bus back to Jeomchon the following mornig and continue riding from there. Night before however, while soaking my feet in Suanbo, hade a re-think. Body was feeling good, was confident about the climb the next day, so plan changed.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Plan now, find the inter-city bus station, jump on a bus to Andong and ride the 90 or so k's back to Jeomchon tomorrow. Meant I would have to back track about 20km for the ride on the following day, but so be it.
Little bit of trouble finding the bus station - went to the local bus station first, evident there would be no room for a bike as no storage bins in the smaller buses. Another 20 minutes of meandering until I found the inter-city station. About an hour wait for the bus to depart, not all that pleasant as I was still in wet clothes and shoes and socks.
An hour or so on the bus and arrived in Andong, where I thought it would be a short 5 minute ride to my hotel.
Nope.
Andong's a city of about 130 000, it was late afternoon, windy, cold, drizzle and bus station was on the outskirts of the city. A 45 minute or so crawl, dodging cars, people on footpaths and constant stops to make sure I was going in the right direction.
Eventually made it, an ex, or still, love hotel booked through booking.com the previous evening.
Hot shower, as much gear as possible hanging up to dry, then out for a bit of a wander and some dinner through Andong.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

I didn't last too long, as it wasn't all that pleasant with the wind chill factor, and I desperately needed to get my shoes under a hair dryer.
Fortunately I returned to the hotel when I did, as a guest was parking his car and had he been successful, or unsuccessful, 1 or 2 or both things would have happened.
1. My bike would have been crushed and destroyed
2. I would have had my bike pinned against the wall with no way to get out until the car was moved.
A bit of frantic gesturing and I was able to get him to stop his endeavours until I was able to move my bike to relative safety.
Had picked up a chicken salad from Paris Baguette for dinner. Early night, needed a decent sleep for the ride ahead.

There was a bit of a hanok area close to the hotel, not able to get a decent look look or photo due to the high walls

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Cold, wet morning as I made the short ride to the riverfront, then upstream 7km's to Andong Dam, and the start of the Nakdong River Path.
















Couple of boiled eggs and a chicken breast form an adjacent convenience store, and I was off. A bit of construction cut the path off jgetting out of Andong, but a bit of trial and error got me back on track.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Public little boys room at Andong Dam. Very pleasant.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

A last look at Andong from over the shoulder


Bit of a climb out of Andong, then through some farmland




Rest stop within the fields


Off again and some flat riding






Another climb, and another stop


Upper reaches of the Nakdong

Through some more farmland, bit of road riding, then a stop at a cross road when I got the notification that I had to get my leg in for my bet with mates group

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Had about an hour of fairly bland scenery along the river. What was concerning me though was the grinding coming from my chain running through my cassette, due to the debris I was picking up off the path due to the wet conditions.


Had a stop at a little town just over this bridge. No luck finding any chain oil at the little convenience store, loaded up on water and tried to clean as much gunk off as possible.



There was quite a large and modern coffee shop overlooking the river. Took the opportunity to get indoors and rest for 20 minutes or so. Some nice views over the river as well.





Back into it, the occasional shower and a bit of cold wind.



Another stop after about an hour. Music playing from somewhere as well.



Monument to a local hero in Korea's struggle with Japan
The next 45 minutes or so was some winding paths through pig farms. Not pleasant.
Eventually ride parallel to the Nakdong as it starts to move south toward Busan. What was pleasant was the grove of cherry trees along the path.


Crossed the Sangjusangpoong Bridge and stop and a rest at the certification booth of the same name. This booth is the end of the Saejae Path



Another cleaning of the chain and cassette was in order. Fortunately their is a chest filled with water bottles at this booth. Works on an honesty system, 1000won per bottle. ($1.20ish)

 

[Noel Mugavin]

There was an older Korean cyclist at the stop, has a conversation with him as best I could. Worked out he was heading to Suanbo, so another 70 odd k's for him, with a bit of a strong breeze in his face.
20k;s for me into Jeomchon, and not looking forward to it.
Quick stop in the not so salubrious outhouse at the certification stop




Back on the bike, and a pleasant off shoot of the breeze being up was the cherry blossoms giving me a ticker tape parade as I rode.
Looking back on Sangjusangpoong Bridge


The road ahead

Village by the river has erected this as the start of the Nakdong, conveniently ignoring the 70k's or so flowing from Andong


The older Korean fella took off about 10 - 15 minutes before me, and with the path now being quite flat, I spotted him up ahead. Doing long distance riding, you find things to keep you motivated to keep going, and he was my rabbit and I was on the chase.

He was about 50m's away, and feeling of satisfaction was growing as I was going to catch him. Then he slowed and turned off the path, through a little laneway through another pig farm, and out of sight. Thought that he had had enough of the wind and Suanbo might be a step too far and he was off to find accommodation in the village just off the track.
That left me to battle the wind, a respite for a couple of km's as the track takes a horseshoe path around a hill. Back into a straight, had been riding for 15 minutes or so since I lost old mate, and had been going at a fair clip. Then lo and behold, from a little side track, out he pops. A little unknown by me shortcut, and given I was going back the same way the next day, one I would look to investigate.
Needed a sit down after that shock.


Bike theme outhouse at the stop

 

[Noel Mugavin]

About 8km left into Jeomchon


Found my hotel quite easily. Bloke at the front desk saw I was on a bike and directed me to their supply storeroom where I was able to keep it in overnight.
Nice room


Shower and 30 minutes or so horizontal, before I was out to have a bit of a look around town, get some dinner, and more importantly find some chain oil for my grinding chain and cassette.



I didn't last long. Unable to find any chain oil, did buy a bottle of olive oil as a substitute. Salas form Paris Baquette for dinner and stocked up with some snacks for the road from a convenience store.
Early night, another long day ahead.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Started early and made the 20km to Sangjusangpoon Bridge, where I gave my chain ans cassette a good scrubbing with the hotel toothbrush and a bit of water. Oiled and cleaned, was moving a lot more smoothly afterwards.
I used the old Korean blokes shortcut, took me through some more pig farms and some ominous sounding barking dogs. Cut about 3 km off the journey.
Nice sunrise as I started the day's ride


Flat farm land at the start of the day


Looking back toward Jeomchon


Looking south


A little south of Sangjusangpoon Bridge is one of the steepest parts of the ride. A short, but brutal 15 - 20% incline. Definitely not ride-able, exhausting pushing up the 50m or so hill.
You get some nice views


You then get a bit of a downhill before another brutal uphill




There's a fantastic downhill on the main road, past Sang-ju museum and the tomb of the loyal cow, before entering Gyeongcheondae, which is a bit of a nature tourist park.


Through the park, back on the road and into Sangju

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Cycling theme is strong along the route

Pleasant riding

To Sangjubo, and a little bit of apprehension as just past here was where I struck trouble the previous year


Successfully passed to point of trouble, kept a sharp eye on the road for rogue stones though. Through a bit of farmland, then to the next checkpoint, Nakdongbo.








Fairly monotonous riding for most of today, flat, along the river and a bit of wind in the face

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Next stop was Gumibo, thought i'd be able to get some water and a gimbap, unfortunately, nothing at this stop. Impressive turtle on the weir though.






Crossed the river and rode on the outskirts of the industrial area of the city of Gumi.
Back across and more wind and monotonous flat riding.
Not much by the path, relieved when I saw a little shop. Really needed some water and something to eat.
Alas, not open. Stopped for a bit of a rest though


Wasn't too far until the next stop of Chilgokbo. Fortunately this one had a convenience store and able to get some water and a little snack.






It was only about 3 or 4km to the town of Chilgok, where I was staying for the night. Unfortunately, there is a huge levee between the river and the town, and rather than backtracking to the entry to the town, I carried my bike up the 60 or so stairs.
Didn't take long to find my hotel, bike rack out the front.
The room had a big bath, so a nice long soak, then out for a bit of a wander.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

The hotel
Bit of wandering, but was fading fast.
Did stop for an as advertised dolsot bibimbap though
Took the photo on the shop window so I could show the lady what I wanted to order

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Decent day's work

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Saturday morning, and if all went well, the penultimate day of my ride. Didn't have an exact distance for today, but I had worked out it would be about 108km. There would also be 3 ascents, however all my readings and watching of you tube videos had me assured that the hardest part of the trek was behind me.
A bit of a back track through Chilgok to enable me to maneuver around the levee and enter the riverside bike path.
Top of the entrance from the levee, looking down on Memorial Park




Bridge to the Eastern side of the river


Memorial Park, and monument to an American Serviceman who went missing in this spot on patrol during the Korean War. When his wife passed away many years later, her children scattered her ashes in the river at this spot.


Built up area, e
astern side of the river


The levee, and the path south. Highway running next to it, so also had to haul the bike up over an
overpass the day previous


On the road and some low lying fog up ahead


Plenty of cherry blossoms

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Hour or so of riding until I hit Gangjeonggoryeongbo, on the outskirts of Daegu.

Path crosses to the western side of the river here


First a quick ride around The Arc, a cultural exhibition centre. Apparently has a theatre and an observatory. Way too early for anything to be open.







Back on the road, over the bridge and away I went. The Arc from afar.

Some interesting sculptures.statues along this part of the path

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Lots of mini golf courses by the path all along the route from Seoul to Busan


I missed a sign at some stage directing me back over a bridge to the Western side of the river. All was well though, crossed over a traffic bridge that was a bit hairy, but all ended well.
Shortly after the crossing made it to Dalseongbo
Back over the east side is the gravel bike route. Staying on the west side for me



A good set up at this spot; convenience store and a viewing tower. Despite my mess up with the bridge, had made extremely good time, mid morning, and only about 70km's to go.
Relaxed for a little while with a coffee and a trip up to the top of the tower

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Looking back toward Daegu


East


To the south and the path I am taking

Very pleasant riding conditions at this stage.


First climb of the three for the day. Not too bad, and a nice view as a reward. There is a bypass that takes you through a tunnel under the hill. Even though I missed the turn off for it, I still would have chosen to go up the hill.


Pagoda at the top of the hill






What followed was a series of long flat stretches, as well as wooden constructed boardwalks that raise the path along the river's edge.
As well as the odd isolated farm.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Quite a long stretch hugging the river, past a huge automotive testing area, then a decision to make. Up a hill to Musimsa Buddhist Temple, or detour around the ascent. I chose the temple, with hindsight should have visited the temple then backtracked. The hill after the temple wasn't fun.











Nice views from the temple






Finally the top, after a lot more pushing than riding