Snow, Onsen and Crab!

Approaching Kurobe Unatsukionsen Station, some nice views!
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That was 立山連峰, Tateyama Moutain Range, part of Northern Japan Alps.

From here you take the Toyama Chiho Railway to Unatsukionsen station.
One way ticket is 640 Yen normally, but you can buy a return ticket from this counter for 1200 (valid for 5 days, cash only).
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Maybe I do take pictures of random tickets after all? 🤪
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The train ride was nice.
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View
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Arrived at Unatsukionsen Station. Almost 6 hours in transit, finally done!

That fountain was onsen water! Yeah I tested it 🤣
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Yamanoha - Unatsukionsen

So I booked this ryokan in January when randomly searching....found one room that was no doubt cancelled by someone. 15K Yen including two meals! Unbelievable price, honestly.
I know prices in Tokyo have gone totally mad, but rest of Japan is still relatively good value.

Unatsuki onsen(how many here have heard of it?😉) is in fact the largest onsen town in Toyama.
However the main attraction here is a trolley train going deep into the famous Kurobe Gorge.
Winter is the low season as the trolley train is closed.
*There are some ski resorts too but I'm not a skier so...

Might be the largest in Toyama, still just a small town!
Yamanoha is the large block on the top right next to the river.
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Probably the largest ryokan in town?
Left is the Annex, right the main building.
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Lovely flower arrangement.
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And a lounge next to the lobby with the most impressive view!
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As mentioned before, I booked the room that was available when I checked, not much choices...
It was a "River view Japanese room" in the main building, I was slightly nervous since it's so cheap...

Entrance, door to the left is toilet.
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Take the right turn, there's the mini fridge, kettle, and all the other tea/coffee things.
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Bathroom was pretty basic. But this is an onsen ryokan so you are not supposed to be using it anyways!
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12 tatami sized Japanese room, very spacious.
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And the view!!!
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Honestly, this got to be one of the best deals I got in Japan, ever. 😍
 
Went down to the lounge again for some drinks.
This was tea, not coffee!
*What I think about Japanese coffee is well documented so I shall not repeat myself 🤢
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Then went out for a little stroll around town.

There's some...hmmm...interesting design you don't expect to see in a small town like this.
Other seasons you can go to this viewing platform not in winter...unless you have a snow shoe ha ha
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Yamanoha definitely has the best location in town.
The other side of the river was also nice but without those two red bridges it just didn't feel the same.
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Never an onsen town without some foot baths!
This one is inside the station.
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I've noticed the streets here were unlike Takayama that morning which was accidents waiting to happen...was wondering why...before I saw these!

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Back to the ryokan and time to visit the public bath!

Ooooh the one in Beniya overlooking Lake Suwa was nice, but holy cow it has nothing on this one 😍
Photos are obviously from hotel website.
This is the indoor bath.
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And the outdoor bath宇奈月温泉 Yamanoha (4).jpg

OMG OMG OMG I'm so coming back....
 
One of their way to maintain the low price, is to have a buffet dinner.
But honestly, I don't care at this point. With that view and that onsen (at 15K!).....you can feed me konbini bentos and I won't complain.

And it was actually not bad at all!
There were boards outside the dining hall advertising local delicacies.
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As someone who loves seafood, this was very good.
They have buri sashimi!
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*Buri, I think it's yellowtail in English? When caught in winter it's called Kanburi, most famously from Toyama Bay. Together with Nodoguro, are my favourites in this region.

Also a notice about estimated breakfast peaks...One look and I decided to come after 8am 🤣
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Back to the room, bed was made during dinner.
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The next morning, I chose sleep over going to the other public bath.
Not as impressive as the one before anyways...
Picture also from hotel website.
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Breakfast buffet was also nice.
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The Toyama white shrimp sushi!
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Best deal of the whole trip without doubt.
I'll be back some day.
 
Checked out at 10am, back onto the Toyama Chiho Railway train.
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Kurobe Unatsukionsen Station really has beautiful views!
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Hokuriku Shinkansen.
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Obviously I could have gone straight to Kyoto.
Ah but back in Feb 2019 I was in Kanazawa and encountered one of the warmest winters...😢
Well I need to make it right!

So I hunted down a locker (not easy!), jump on a bus and off we went to Kenrokuen.
Entered the garden from Katsurazaka Gate.
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The famous stone lantern!
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Snow was getting heavier by the minute...
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I've been here a few times including peak Sakura season.
Definitely think this is the best look.
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Very pretty but holy cow the snow was getting through my jacket!
Decided to go to Kanazawa Castle next door since I knew there's a lounge near the entrance...
 
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