Snow, Onsen and Crab!

[jukebox333]

Loving the photos, @rbjhan !

Another rather specific question you *might* be able to answer; you've mentioned the Midori no Madoguchi at Kyoto are diabollically crowded...

I understand there's actually three ticket offices beneath Kyoto station - did you happen to notice if there was any one that wasn't quite so bad - or a time of day where it was less dire (v.eary? v.late during opening hours?)

Next month I've got x5 passes to redeem and activate, then three JRWest shinkansen bookings, so I'm resigned to the fact I have to navigate a Midori no Madoguchi ~ but was hoping to minimise the pain

 

[rbjhan]

Another rather specific question you *might* be able to answer; you've mentioned the Midori no Madoguchi at Kyoto are diabollically crowded...

I understand there's actually three ticket offices beneath Kyoto station - did you happen to notice if there was any one that wasn't quite so bad - or a time of day where it was less dire (v.eary? v.late during opening hours?)

Next month I've got x5 passes to redeem and activate, then three JRWest shinkansen bookings, so I'm resigned to the fact I have to navigate a Midori no Madoguchi ~ but was hoping to minimise the pain

If you just want to exchange the pass, I recommend the machines. There are different types of ticket machines, you need the one with a scanner (to scan your passport), those can issue passes.
It's much faster.
See here:

The reason I had to go to the office, as I explained before, was because I used up all the quota for reservations (6). Even though unlimited numbers of reservations can be made, from the 7th onwards it can only be done manually by staff, I assume whatever system thay had behind the counter is more powerful.

Also, sometimes it's just timing or pure luck....the next time when I was forced to visit the same office, no one was in the foreigners' queue!

Edit, you also don't have to exchange in Kyoto. Depends on what kind of pass and where you are coming from....

 

[rbjhan]

I've been checking live cams the whole morning, finally saw Kibune was snowing!

Then a dear friend (the one took the screenshot in Kamikochi) found out that Kibune Shrine had a special light up program that week.
*I know it should be called Illuminations, but Light Up is just another example of Wasei Eigo - when in Japan, let's go with it!

Kibune is located in a valley in the northern mountains of Kyoto, which is basically developed around Kifune Shrine.
Summer time people come to escape the heat in Kyoto and Autumn for the beautiful leaves.
Winter is definitely the low season.

Made my way to Demachiyanagi and took Eizan Railway towards Kibuneguchi.
Ah this train would have been sooo packed during momiji season!


With good reason though! This is what it looked like in autumn (2014! You don't want to know what it was like last Nov, trust me).

There's a bus running from Kibuneguchi station to the shrine but it finishes around 4pm or something like that...
So I had to walk about 30 mins.


TBF I've been through heavy snow this trip. In comparison this was nothing.
But Kyoto doesn't get snow that much so it was exciting nonetheless!




This bridge connects to Kurama (one hour hike!).

 

[rbjhan]

Ooooh look at the lanterns!


Well on the Kifune Shrine website they said "light up program runs from sunset to 8pm".
I thought the shrine would close at 8 too....



Upon closer inspection....


Ha, so the light up was, you know, just lighting up some lanterns

* this was a proper light up.

Best I could do was this picture taken by the side...


Someone was selling coffee next door...tempting but then I thought about all the coffee I had this trip.....might as well get one from vending machine!

 

[rbjhan]

Doesn't matter that much I guess...

I got the photo of Kifune Shrine + Lights + snow in the blue hour!









People were all gathering at the base and took photos...


One last photo of the Torii gate

 

[rbjhan]

I did mention this was a long weekend right?
On the way back to Kyoto city centre, I was thinking the whole time, where to have dinner without reservation???

Decided the one person Yakiniku place was probably not too busy....
And I was right ha ha, they were full but I only had to wait like 3 mins.




Finished dinner, came out and saw this!!


Wheels started turning in my head, where to go first thing next morning?

End of day 10.

 

[Justinf]

I love the genghis khan cook it yourself in Japan.

 

[rbjhan]

I love the genghis khan cook it yourself in Japan.

That is a Hokkaido thing though, unlikely to be available in Kyoto....
In general I prefer beef to lamb but that's just me.

 

[ShelleyB]

Great photos of all the snow. Looks amazing.

Which brings me to asking a rather mundane question. Our next trip to Japan will be January and although the exact itinerary awaits finalisation, snowy regions will definitely be involved, such as around Sendai perhaps further north. We are none of us skiers, but we do plan to spend plenty of time outside walking in both urban and rural areas. What footwear have you found useful in the snow? Was thinking to take our waterproof hiking boots and perhaps some type of snowboot?

As I said, boring question but an important practical one for us.

 

[rbjhan]

Great photos of all the snow. Looks amazing.

Which brings me to asking a rather mundane question. Our next trip to Japan will be January and although the exact itinerary awaits finalisation, snowy regions will definitely be involved, such as around Sendai perhaps further north. We are none of us skiers, but we do plan to spend plenty of time outside walking in both urban and rural areas. What footwear have you found useful in the snow? Was thinking to take our waterproof hiking boots and perhaps some type of snowboot?

As I said, boring question but an important practical one for us.

I am also not a skier.
I wore a pair of Salomon X Ultra 5 Mid, it performed phenomenally in snow.
I don't think snowboots is necessary, maybe gaiters and/or ice cleats?

Cities and towns in the north are equipped to deal with snow, like the devices in Unatsukionsen upthread #204. Although I'm not sure how rural you plan to go...

*What I find important, is DO NOT dress in layers like so often advised.
The Japanese will set the aircon to 25C no matter what (or sometimes even higher!)
You want something suitable to 25C inside, and one big warm outer layer, and that's it.
Your everyday Japanese person might be able to sport a wool sweater+jacket indoors during winter, but I don't think any Australian can do that

 

[ShelleyB]

I am also not a skier.
I wore a pair of Salomon X Ultra 5, it performed phenomenally in snow.
I don't think snowboots is necessary, maybe gaiters and/or ice cleats?

Cities and towns in the north are equipped to deal with snow, like the devices in Unatsukionsen upthread #204. Although I'm not sure how rural you plan to go...

Your Salomons look nice. Our hiking boots are also Gore-tex and what I figured would do in the main. We are not planning super-rural. Would definitely like to do a few walks where I think cleats, as you suggest, would be useful. Walking up to Yamadera for instance. I have viewed videos of people walking up in snow and while very doable does look icy.

 

[rbjhan]

Your Salomons look nice. Our hiking boots are also Gore-tex and what I figured would do in the main. We are not planning super-rural. Would definitely like to do a few walks where I think cleats, as you suggest, would be useful. Walking up to Yamadera for instance. I have viewed videos of people walking up in snow and while very doable does look icy.

Oh Yamadera, ha ha I don't think I want to do that climb in winter....yes you definitely need cleats.

 

[ShelleyB]

Oh Yamadera, ha ha I don't think I want to do that climb in winter....yes you definitely need cleats.

Amazingly in some of the videos people looked to be wearing rather everyday shoes but I think I would just end up on my backside. I also plan to take my hiking poles to assist in my efforts to stay upright.

 

[rbjhan]

Amazingly in some of the videos people looked to be wearing rather everyday shoes but I think I would just end up on my backside. I also plan to take my hiking poles to assist in my efforts to stay upright.

Oh I think poles would be an excellent idea. (from what I heard people do end up on their backside in Yamadera a lot in winter )

Ha ha some people are just like that....maybe inexperienced? lack of common sense? I dunno but
I saw some interesting footwear choices in Kyoto certainly. Even overheard one guy to his friend "I'm like basically walking on socks now"...that was during heavy snow....

 

[jukebox333]

If you just want to exchange the pass, I recommend the machines. There are different types of ticket machines, you need the one with a scanner (to scan your passport), those can issue passes.
It's much faster.
See here:

The reason I had to go to the office, as I explained before, was because I used up all the quota for reservations (6). Even though unlimited numbers of reservations can be made, from the 7th onwards it can only be done manually by staff, I assume whatever system thay had behind the counter is more powerful.

Also, sometimes it's just timing or pure luck....next time when I was forced to visit the same office, no one was in the foreigners' queue!

Edit, you also don't have to exchange in Kyoto. Depends on what kind of pass and where you are coming from....

Sadly, I have x5 physical Exchange Orders from JTB, and those need JRWest Midori no Madoguchi's...

I'm arriving from Nagoya on a weekday morning shinkansen, but don't need the pass until a couple of days later. I'll just have play it by ear as to when I sacrifice valuable sightseeing time.

Cheers.

 

[rbjhan]

Sadly, I have x5 physical Exchange Orders from JTB, and those need JRWest Midori no Madoguchi's...

I'm arriving from Nagoya on a weekday morning shinkansen, but don't need the pass until a couple of days later. I'll just have play it by ear as to when I sacrifice valuable sightseeing time.

Cheers.

Well Nara is close and I assume not too many people doing it there

But in all honesty, you might just need to suck it up and do it once. At least in Kyoto they have a separate counter for foreigners.

I'm however surprised people are still buying the physical ones!

 

[VPS]

I’m just catching up on this wonderful trip report. I’ve been very busy travelling and haven’t had time to do much.

What would happen if you posted some photos that ANA did not approve of? How would they know it was you?

 

[rbjhan]

I’m just catching up on this wonderful trip report. I’ve been very busy travelling and haven’t had time to do much.

What would happen if you posted some photos that ANA did not approve of? How would they know it was you?

No, probably nothing they can do.

However, Japan is a high trust society and it functions well based on everyone following the rules.
That's why I like to use IKYU to book hotels coz you don't need to prepaid (you can choose pay at front desk or online), online payments come out after your stay.

Why so many fine dining restaurants don't take bookings from foreigners? Even the hotels you stay at are reluctant to help....Safe to assume somewhere in the not so distant past some people made reservations and no showed.

Let's say somebody posted pictures of the Blue Hangar Tour without getting approval at all, let's say this happens a fair bit and they find out....At what point does ANA just say F this we are now Japanese only? Remember this is a free tour so even less incentive for them to open to everyone.

This whole "I've got mine f you" mindset is why so many Japanese do not like foreigners...
In Japanese there's a word 迷惑行為, can be translated to anti social behaviour? But it covers a lot more, including things like walking while eating or phone call on trains, etc. The more I study Japanese the more I understand their way of thinking but I find it hard to explain in English without writing an whole essay...

I am trying my best to leave a good impression at least.

 

[rbjhan]

Sunday, I decided the previous night to go to Kinkakuji first thing in the morning, hoping the snow would last....Well it was all sunshine on the way there....my heart just sank.....

Kinkakuji opens at 9am, I arrived right on the dot and many people were having the same idea.
Oh boy the ticket office was chokers!

Then, everyone was asked to hold your ticket high, slowly walk through a narrow walkway (not that you could walk fast anyways).... Genius! They just need to place one person by the side, and with a glance he could see who didn't have a ticket! Talk about efficient operations!

Ah you see, there's a reason I haven't been back to Kinkakuji since 2014....

It was actually very pretty that morning but totally not what I was there for!


There's just that little snow left...


As I walked to the back, could see some left on the roof...


Shame they open at 9, at 6am it was probably stunning...

This probably can be classified as false advertising

 

[rbjhan]

You see, Kyoto does get snow in winter, sometimes.
But it's nothing like Tohoku or Hokuriku, generally only light snow and melts quickly.
Mountains in the north are your best bet to see a snow-covered scene, eg Kibune/Kurama or Ohara.
*apparently it has decreased in recent years too.

So where to now that snow has been eliminated?
I remember I hadn't been to Kamigamo Jinja, an it's not that far.....

So I took a bus to Kitaoji and changed to another bus to Kamigamo Jinja.
Sigh I miss the good old days of the 500 Yen One Day Kyoto Bus Ticket! Now there's only the combined one day ticket of bus/subway for 1100 Yen...

Kamigamo Jinja

​

First Torii Gate


Another one!


So the sign to the right says Kamigamo handicraft market....now that's interesting.


Lots of shops!
I have my doubts about whether these were all handicraft or not though...