The 5 Stans of the Silk Road

[RooFlyer]

A mosque and a Russian Orthodox church in Mary, neither of which were particularly interesting, but an original MIG outside a former air office was worth a stop.







Accommodation that night was at the Hotel Mary, sort of modern with OK rooms but the restaurant menu didn't look appealing at all!!



We had a group dinner over the road, which was typical of our Turkmenistan stay. A bit chaotic in ordering, some orders missed, somewhat lassez faire in getting and paying the bill, but tasty enough in consumption. Again, 'beer and barbecue' ( ie shashlik) were the staples.

 

[RooFlyer]

Most of what remains of Merv are deeply eroded, but still prominent mud brick and earth walls.

They enclose several cities, as new ones were built beside they old, rather than on top.

The oldest and smallest, Erk Kala dates from the 6th century BC and was conquered by Alexander the Great and was replaced by the adjacent City.







Difficult to get a good impression here. The are few structures remaining inside the walls. Mainly looking at the wall remnants themselves.

Overall the site was a bit disappointing.

 

[RooFlyer]

One remnant is the mausoleum of an early Sultan, built much later after his death, in the 12th Century. Heavily restored recently.

 

[RooFlyer]

Then back on the bus, heading for the Uzbekistan border. Again through the dry, sandy desert for a few hours. A provincial boundry in Turkmenistan, marked by the arch, and we ask had to be re registered in the new province. They keep a tight reign in your movements in that county.



Lunch at a little desert 'roadhouse', didn't look great but served tasty samosas.







Then onwards again and we cross the fabled Oxus River ( now called something else). A big waterway!

 

[RooFlyer]

At the border soon after that.

Our Turkman guide took us as far as he could, but we also have a western tour leader with us the whole time.

Several passport checks, then stamped out of Turkmenistan. Then a shuttle across the first half of .no man's land (US$1/ pax).



Then a walk in the middle ( with luggage of course), then a second shuttle ( same price) to the Uzbekistan border station. A bit classier ride this time!



A couple of checks at the Uzbek station ( no visa requirement, but several of them did look very closely at the passport stamps I had).

A customs x-ray - several of us were asked, variously, if we were carrying drones, >$2000 US dollars, drugs etc.

Took about 75 mins all in all which we were told was quick.

 

[RooFlyer]

So, now happily ensconced in Uzbekistan, a few words about the last place.

Definitely worth a visit! You MUST be on a tour. Private or group, but a tour company must sponsor your Letter of Invitation. I have details of a tour company if anyone is interested.

You have to be accompanied, or with your tour the whole time, but walking about Ashgabat by yourself is ok, and we walked ourselves to and from dinner in Mary, no problems.

Ashgabat is just plain bizarre. That's a word I found myself muttering the whole time. No other word for it. May be no where else on earth like Ashgabat. But After a few days you have it all seen.

The Turkmen government tolerates rather than encourages tourism. They don't need the income!! About 10,000 tourists per year visit.

The restaurants have a lot to learn about service. The hotels are better.

Considering the vast amount of marble buildings and 6 Lane freeways in Ashgabat, the standard of roads outside the capital is lamentable, as is the quality of water in the capital.

It is a very repressive society. Rated almost the worst country for press freedom, etc.

But like I said, definitely put it on your list to visit if you like even a little bit of adventure. It's very safe and well organised.

The fire crater if one of the most amazing places to visit, anywhere, full stop!!

I would like to go back.

 

[RooFlyer]

Our Uzbek guide met us with the coach as we exited the Uzbek border station.

90 minutes to Bukhara, an ancient city on the Silk Road and a religious capital. Formerly ruled by the Emirs of Bukhara until the Russians cane in the mid 1800s.

Our hotel is the Sultan, in the middle of the Old Town. Instantly we can see that Uzbekistan and Bukhara is much more tourist oriented. In fact it looks a bit over done. Tourist spots AND tourists all over the place.



As we didn't have a chance to get cash, local guide had arranged a restaurant which took US$. In fact this place is very international and Euros, USD accepted very readily in the street markets. ATMs broken down into MasterCard types and Visa types and no machine guaranteed to work.

1$US equals 9,000 Uzbek som With ATM notes mainly in 10,000 notes, so you get a big wads of cash!!

First order at dinner was beer. It's mid 30s still, daily and the wines aren't encouraging.



Main of bbq lamb



Salad of roast eggplant, onion etc which was delicious.

 

[henleybeach]

haha we stayed in the hotel next door on the right hand side.
Definitely smack bang in the middle of everything

 

[RooFlyer]

Are the pics in the post above showing?

Bukhara is full of monuments and ancient buildings. The large numbers of Madrassas whick used to make this a holy city were converted by the Soviets to museums and the like and many are now does and stalls for the tourists, of which there are many.

Or hotel is right opposite the Lyabi-Hauz, a pool dating from 1620. It's a bit dank and green now



The largest feature in the town is the Ark, or Citadel, an enormous former home to the Emir. It was bombed by the Russians and was mostly destroyed. The outer wall was extensively rebuilt.







Inside is a small restored area housing some museums.

 

[burmans]

Loving your TR, am planning a trip there myself next year so all great info.

 

[RooFlyer]

While I remember, many places in both countries charge a 'photo fee '. Usually around US$1. In some places here in Uzbekistan, if you use a phone camera, or iPad, there is no fee.

Many places here in Bukhara we'll take US$, But not all. Restaurants are resistant.

 

[henleybeach]

While I remember, many places in both countries charge a 'photo fee '. Usually around US$1. In some places here in Uzbekistan, if you use a phone camera, or iPad, there is no fee.

Many places here in Bukhara we'll take US$, But not all. Restaurants are resistant.

Maybe this is new for Uzbekistan, I used my canon camera for all photos and was never asked for a “photo fee” anywhere in Uzbekistan back in May

 

[JohnM]

I think we only know about it through our guide. It’s not rigidly enforced.

 

[RooFlyer]

I think we only know about it through our guide. It’s not rigidly enforced.

... And you can pay it on exit if you use your 'proper' camera, so it's quite subtle.

 

[RooFlyer]

Some general scenes around Bukhara, most buildings at least 400 years old. Madrasas etc.







The town is very lively at night. Markets, tourists, shows etc

 

[Skyhawk]

At last ... people in the streets!

 

[RooFlyer]

This is a gorgeous little mausoleum of Ismail Samani from the 9th century and is the oldest structure in Bukhara.

 

[RooFlyer]

The minaret of the Kolon Mosque was built in 1127 and is an architectural masterpiece. 47m tall with10m foundations, when Gwngis Khan came to sack Bukhara, he was so dumbfounded by it, he ordered it spares.

It was the first time blue tiles were used in Central Asia.

 

[tgh]

What is the minaret made of and how is it constructed/assembled ?

 

[RooFlyer]

Made of properly fired bricks and laid in the conventional way ( scaffolding inside and out)