The Jukebox Clan Does Japan

[GarrettM]

Avert your eyes, kiddies...

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It looks like they're playing leap frog but he just can't quite get high enough over the top.

 

[jukebox333]

It looks like they're playing leap frog but he just can't quite get high enough over the top.

No, they were doing exactly what it looks like they were doing. I had one in the viewfinder, and by the time I'd squeezed the shutter, and with the camera lag, I'd inadvertently captured monkey business.

 

[jukebox333]

Thanks for the well wishes everyone.

Posting won't be as live as I'd like while I play catch up - it's been quite the 24 hrs coming to terms with having to leave Wen at Nagano, but also keeping the plans for the sake of everyone else.

She's still in a lot of pain, and they are telling her to expect a long recovery. It will be a little while before we get an indication of how long before she can be discharged, but it won't be before we reach Nagoya at least.

The good news is I now have my own physical Traveller's eSim after finding one for sale at the conbini in Matsumoto railway station, and she has her phone and charger, so we are in 24/7 contact with one another again. That was very important.

 

[jukebox333]

After we had dropped Wen at the hospital, the kids and I drove east up the hill to Togakushi Shrine.

This was quite the journey in the van. The van is the same model we had to go to Fuji, but that one was a hybrid ePower version - Nissan's hybrid is a petrol engine powering a generator that charges the electric battery that drives electric motors powering the wheel - and it was very responsive both accelerating and braking. The petrol version I have for this 5 days is much more sluggish. Even the turning circle feels wider. I highly recommend taking the hybrid if you have to choose - I think it might have been cheaper as well.

The main shrine you can see in the webcam is in the village a little down from the summit. There's lots of soba restaurants there, and apparently it's quite the mecca for noodle enthusiasts. We were headed for the upper shine and continued on. I'd watched the snow falling on the cam for weeks now, and knew the destination would be well above the snow line. The last fall was last week I think - I didn't check on the day it snowed at Fuji though. The roads were clear now, but there was at least a metre on the ground.

There's a paid parking lot up the top, and we set off to the middle shrine.




The path had only been cleared as far as the middle shrine. Even then the last 20m was an icy, slippery mess. But we pushed on to reach the money shot that I'd been wanting to see:



The stand of cedar trees here is incredible. I wish I'd brought the crampons to be able to continue up the path a way more, but even so, the sight of these massive ancient trees was just breathtaking.



Not wanting to end up on my backside, or worse, sprain - or break! - my wrist, we turned around and headed back to the car.

Accomodation in Nagano was the JAL City Hotel.

We'd originally planned to head to Hakuba from here, but when my accommodation of choice there was closed for bookings in April, I decided to steer back into the city, so needed a place with decent car parking. JALC fit the bill.

I joined the free JAL One Harmony rewards program, and got their rates for rooms, which were pretty good. The one assigned to Wen and I was on the 14th floor, with views of the mountains. Free beverages in the fridge, loads of amenities in the room, and a huge bed with lots of floor space.









It felt damn cruel to spend my first night alone in Japan with all that.

Pragmatically, it was a really nice place to stay, about halfway between the main station and the Zenkoji temple, but also near lots of places to eat. When I explained why the occupancy was for four, not five, and that I would have some special needs - car park re-entry, phone access for the hospital for emergencies etc, the front desk staff and manager were accommodating, and generous. I would definitely recommend this hotel as a Nagano base for anyone.

 

[rbjhan]

Togakushi Shrine, yeah I want to go to! Haven't managed to work it into my travels, yet.
There are shukubos near the shrine, would be good to stay one night.

 

[jukebox333]

I started the day after a sleepless night by walking up to Zenkoji Temple. It was a beautiful day, crisp and cold, and a great way to help clear my head.



The monks were finishing the service when I arrived, and I was able to watch the spiritual head bless people as he left by touching them with the tassle from his robe.



You could probably spend a whole day in and around the temple precinct - there were residences and side temples in both directions off the main pathway, one with a pond that had a brilliant reflection:



The sakura in Matsumoto are just starting to bloom - in two weeks they will be full and wonderful



Leaving Nagano, we were headed for Matsumoto.

We stopped at the Obasute rice terraces, which are not much to look at at this time of year, but the view down to Nagano is worth the detour.



From there, it was off to the Daio wasabi farm. This is a massive destination for tour buses judging from the car park. Entry is free and you can walk around the acres of wasabi growing in shallow flowing springs water. I'd kinda have liked even a short demonstration on the techniques of growing or harvesting, or info on how long they take to grow, but even so it was still worth a stop.







That may have been influenced by lining up for a lunch set that included a stem of wasabi and your own grater - where you then grind your own fresh wasabi paste to add to the meal. It was a novelty, but sure tasted great. The "wasabi soft serve" not so much - if you blind tasted it would would never know it was wasabi flavour.

With check in time approaching, we steered towards the city.

 

[rbjhan]

Ah reminds me of the morning service I attended in Zenkoji.
It was a very unique and interesting experience!

 

[jukebox333]

Accomodation in Matsumoto was The Celelcton, close by the castle. This is, I believe, a Chinese run hotel - no 4th floor, and WiFi password ending in 8888 being why I assume that.

Rooms were a reasonable size - bathrooms a bit small though.





I checked in the went for a walk around the castle before dinner. The sakura are starting to come out here - those inside the keep and actually fuller than the blooms around the moat.





There's work being done on the red bridge, so I want able to take the iconic shot of the castle at night with the vivid bridge in front. It's still a beautiful sight.

Dinner was at すし典 a sushi restaurant on the same street as the hotel. I spotted this on Google Earth, but they have no email, just a phone neumber. We had Wendy's sister call up and make a booking for us before we left home.

A great food - loads too much food, tbh.

This was just part of the banquest we were served:







At the end of the meal, the chef came and spoke with us through his staff (who were awesome translators). I explained we hadn't randomly arrived tonight, but had planned to visit from back in Australia. There was such joy on his face as he had that translated to him - he was obviously quite touched we'd come so far to try his food. It was so nice to see him so moved - he came out from behind the counter, and followed us out, repeatedly thanking us as we left.

I did a lap of the castle, to take some night time shots, before heading to bed

 

[rbjhan]

This is, I believe, a Chinese run hotel - no 4th floor, and WiFi password ending in 8888 being why I assume that.

In Japanese 4 also sounds like death....so places without X4th floor is common....
But 8888 is certainly a Chinese thing

 

[jukebox333]

Breakfast the next morning was included with the rate - ¥900/head so a no brainer. It was a mix of western baked goods and traditional rice/miso/curry, so plenty of choice.

I had booked a tour of the local miso brewery that didn't start till 11am, so we had a relaxed morning. One more lap of the castle, except we didnt get morning sun - it was greay and damp again...



We arrived on time for the miso tour - this was short - 20 mins - but really informative, and showed you the traditional way of shovelling from vat to vat over time as the miso aged.





I'd then also booked a miso themed lunch at the brewery restaurant, so we got stuck into that.



After lunch was a drive to Naraii-juku. About 45 mins directly, we took the scenic route across the mountains. About 3/4 up, we actaully saw snow monkeys in the wild, feeding by the road. Not one or two either - dozens!

The drive climbed above the snow line, the dropped into the Kiso valley, where we headed for Shimada, our ryokan stay for the night.

 

[jukebox333]

Shimada was full board, and we were treated to a massive dinner.

Bowl after bowl kept arriving...



Then a hotpot for the table...



....and eventually... horse sashimi!



Yes, I ate all of it. With lots of the soy/ginger dipping sauce accompanying it.

To be honest, it had the texture and taste of rare beef. If I hadn't been told, I suspect I might not even have known.

 

[jukebox333]

Now, a little tale about edo post town ryokans...

When I started planning this trip, I had my heart set on staying at a Ryokan in a post town. I wanted to be able to wander the street when all the tourists had left (!) in the evening, and again in the morning.

12 months out, I started making enquiries for Tsumago, but was universally told it was too soon, and to wait until November. In September, I noticed some places were booked out, so enquired again... was told that bookings weren't open or places were full. By November there was nothing available in Tsumago or Magome. I was gutted, because I'd done what I was asked, but somehow it just felt like if you couldn't phone these places and speak Japanese, it was never going to happen.

Then in early December, I peeked at availability for Naraii, and found Shimada 奈良井宿(Narai Juku)Accommodation | Shimada INN was available. I had no drama securing three rooms there. I'd already booked Matsumoto one side, and had plugged in a night at Sakashita nearby to Magome as a consollation booking, so actually cancelled Takayama, and changed plans to come via Naraii.











It was pouring rain last night, but stopped during dinner, so I slipped out for a walk around 8pm. Being alone, walking the main street on an ancient town, with not another soul around, was just incredibe. Such a privledge.










The inn keeper told us that there would be a 7am service at the Sennen-ji Temple, so Levon and I timed our morning excursion to be there. There was a call to prayer, and we stood back outside and waited. Much to our surprise, one of the two holy men gestured for us to come in and join them. We were directed to low chairs, and sat and watched the chanting and praying at close quarters. Then, when the service was over, the head monk (?) came over to us and started chatting via Google translate on his phone - he asked if we had the time to come see his garden, and of course we accepted; he showed us through the temple, out to the pond where he kept koi, and brought us some food to feed them. Then we were shown the dignitary's room, where shoguns were recieved - and were invited to sit, because we had come all the way from Australia.








It was an unscripted moment of that kind that I just thill for - this man of faith giving us his time, and gently showing us part of his world. Just thrilling.

I made a donation (unsolicited) and we left, the town still empty, which gave me some more photo opportunities now the sun was rising. It made the effort and expense all worth it.

 

[jukebox333]

After breakfast this morning, we headed down to Tsumago-juku.

Now maybe it's because Naraii felt so personal, or maybe it was the bus loads of Italian and French tourists, but I just didn't connect as much here. Or perhaps I was just post towned out.







At any rate, we had a bit of a look around then headed to a little restaurant at the end of town, Otokichi 御食事処 音吉. Another place with no online bookings, they served a seasonal menu, and we ordered some tempura and Hida beef plates to share.







Very nice!

After lunch, we had a bit of time before check in, so drove down towards Agigawa Lake and dam. This is coming down out of the valley and the mountains, and it has clearly been warmer here, because the sakura have gone insane!

Seas of white everywhere, individual trees, and groves, often lining watercourses and river banks. These blossoms are so much fuller than Tokyo - just thrilling.





We headed back to Sakashita, where I'd booked an AirBNB for the night. It is an old school building, loads of open space, and three huge sleeping areas upstairs. A great host, he swung by to make sure we were settled in okay, and directed us to some places to eat.




Perched on the hill, it looks out over the river valley, and I've been able to watch the trains go by as I catch up on this posting.





And so now we are pretty much "live" again. Next stop, an overnight in Nagoya before we tackle Kyoto.

​

 

[jukebox333]

And just a brief note about Wendy. She had an MRI on her chest today, and the doctor feels it will be another seven days or so before she can be released from hospital. However, the doctor has also told her that she is in no state to continue travelling, and should fly directly home to Perth once she is released.

We both understand that she must do what is good for her recovery, but I can't describe how devestating this is for us. The show must go on, but what is not happening is we are not creating memories together. This was more than a year in the making, and I can't deny that part of it feels so empty not being able to share it with her - and knowing now I really never can.

All I can say to you is: be sure to get travel insurance in place, and just as importantly, speak frankly with your travel partner about "what if". Know what Plan B is. Also Plan C. Bad things happen suddenly, and you need to have a solid idea exactly what you are going to have to do.

In my case, the show must go on.

 

[rbjhan]

Yes I had a suspicion that I wouldn't like Magome or Tsumago day trip since I've already visited Naraijuku and they might be too similar...
Changed my route to go via Hokuriku and ofc lucked out there.

 

[jukebox333]

Last day with the car, and it was never going to be the most scenic of drives - Sakashita to Nagoya. By Google Earth, there really isn't a whole lot to see, and I can vouch for that first hand. It's semi urban and urban industrial most of the way. The cherry blossoms along the way were the only saving grace - getting fuller and fuller has we dropped down from the mountains. Thankfully, a tollway made the journey quick at any rate.

First stop: The Toyota Kaikan museum. The one was on Oliver's bucket list. Sadly, post Covid Toyota don't do tours of their factory facility any more, and more's the shame.






"Museum" is a pretty loose term - it is now mainly a showroom with samples of Toyota's latest models - impressive enough, if you are into that sort of thing.

About half the space is now taken up by interactive displays and videos on car production - accessible in English, and probably 2-3 hrs worth if you stopped at each one and watched each video and movie. But not the same as seeing the real thing happening IMHO.



There was a group of young salarymen/women being escorted around, earnestly taking notes. I suspect they might have been Toyota's latest corporate intake?



The Gazoo Racing cars certainly appeal if like me you aspire to hot hatches...



Although it feels criminal that we cannot buy this version of the Prius in Australia:



That was the morning sorted.

The plan for the afternoon was to drive over to the Shinkansen museum, 30 mins away, before taking the car back. Here I had my first planning stuff up. In an early iteration, I had planned a later departure from the Kiso velley, and afternoon visit to Toyota, and a morning stop at the Shinkansen museum. But as it didn't open till 10am, the museum visit was costing us almost a full day. When I couldn't get a Sunday flight out, the whole Japan leg shortened by a day, and I didn;t want to squash Kyoto up, so moved the Shinkansen museum to the afternoon before, and the train to Kyoto to first thing in the morning.

I forgot that today was a Tuesday. And that the Shinkansen museum is closed. Bugger. Disappointing, but one of those things. And proof even habitual planners get it wrong.

The time wasn't totally wasted; after we checked in hard on 3pm, I was able to get Wendy's suitcase repacked, and sought out the Black Cat baggage desk on the far side of Nagoya station, where for a princely ¥2090 I was able to forward her suitcase to Nagano hospital overnight for when she is discharged.

Accomodation for us was at the Via Inn Ekimaesubakicho, just across the road from the Station, and one block from the Nissan rental drop off.








This place feels quite new, and has plenty of space in the room, and a good laundry!

We're just here overnight, but are at the same chain in Kyoto for four days, so that bodes well.

 

[craven morehead]

Now, a little tale about edo post town ryokans...

When I started planning this trip, I had my heart set on staying at a Ryokan in a post town. I wanted to be able to wander the street when all the tourists had left (!) in the evening, and again in the morning.

12 months out, I started making enquiries for Tsumago, but was universally told it was too soon, and to wait until November. In September, I noticed some places were booked out, so enquired again... was told that bookings weren't open or places were full. By November there was nothing available in Tsumago or Magome. I was gutted, because I'd done what I was asked, but somehow it just felt like if you couldn't phone these places and speak Japanese, it was never going to happen.

Then in early December, I peeked at availability for Naraii, and found Shimada 奈良井宿(Narai Juku)Accommodation | Shimada INN was available. I had no drama securing three rooms there. I'd already booked Matsumoto one side, and had plugged in a night at Sakashita nearby to Magome as a consollation booking, so actually cancelled Takayama, and changed plans to come via Naraii.

View attachment 438427

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It was pouring rain last night, but stopped during dinner, so I slipped out for a walk around 8pm. Being alone, walking the main street on an ancient town, with not another soul around, was just incredibe. Such a privledge.

View attachment 438431


View attachment 438432


View attachment 438433


The inn keeper told us that there would be a 7am service at the Sennen-ji Temple, so Levon and I timed our morning excursion to be there. There was a call to prayer, and we stood back outside and waited. Much to our surprise, one of the two holy men gestured for us to come in and join them. We were directed to low chairs, and sat and watched the chanting and praying at close quarters. Then, when the service was over, the head monk (?) came over to us and started chatting via Google translate on his phone - he asked if we had the time to come see his garden, and of course we accepted; he showed us through the temple, out to the pond where he kept koi, and brought us some food to feed them. Then we were shown the dignitary's room, where shoguns were recieved - and were invited to sit, because we had come all the way from Australia.

View attachment 438434

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It was an unscripted moment of that kind that I just thill for - this man of faith giving us his time, and gently showing us part of his world. Just thrilling.

I made a donation (unsolicited) and we left, the town still empty, which gave me some more photo opportunities now the sun was rising. It made the effort and expense all worth it.

View attachment 438437

View attachment 438438

Bloody awesome!

 

[Quickstatus]

Although it feels criminal that we cannot buy this version of the Prius in Australia:

Not directly via a Toyota dealership but Oh yes you definitely can import
It's also available "officially" in NZ but same importing rules

 

[jukebox333]

Leisurely start today - 0800 Shinkansen to Kyoto.

Love me a bullet train ride. Never fails to thrill. I was awake at 0500, so went for a morning constitutional... the Japanese are not early risers, and the first shinkansen doesn't leave Nagoya till 0620 I discovered. Gates were all locked still at 0545:



Nagoya concourse had been crazy last night, but at this hour, it was majestically empty:



The troops were awake on time and we got on the platform with enough time to watch a few trains come and go ahead of our reserved express. Or catch up with friends in Australia.



The ride there took about 30 mins, and our hotel, which is just one block back from the station had chains and lockers, so we were able to leave all our suitcases and backpacks safely, and head out to explore.

First stop: Kinkku-ji, because it was one of the furthest out, and hopefully least crowded.



About those crowds...



It actually wasn't horrible, but it sure wasn't zen.

I can't say I'm a huge temple fan - I got more from my experience in Naraii - and the kids certainly were ambivalent, which I'm okay with.

From there, we took the 204 bus east...

 

[jukebox333]

Next stop was The Philosopher's Path. I spotted some beautiful bloom from the 204 Bus, and got off at Shirakawa Sosui-dori St where it crosses Higashikuramaguchi-dori. We pretty much had the path to ourselves for the Northern 2km from here;



But as we made our way south, we came to a point where tour busses dump their crowds, and it got silly.

However the quality of the blooms made up for it. These displays put what I saw in Tokyo to shame - brutally full, vivid blooms, tree after tree after tree...





It was just perfect. And they are everywhere. @Pushka if you are coming this week, you will be spoiled for choice.



We then made our way to a bus to take us to Keage incline.

On the way, saw an unusual display of old streetcars behind a factory that must have some history behind it...



The incline itself was packed with Instagram models, but I suspect the trees there are past peak bloom. It was pretty, but not on the level of the Philosopher's Path.