The Jukebox Clan Does Japan

[jukebox333]

That got us through to 2pm, so we grabbed a bite to eat then went and checked in.

Home for the next four days in the Via Inn Prime Kyoto Station Hachijo Exit, just a block south of the station. More or less the same facilities as Nagano, I'd splurged on a larger room for Wen and I as we had multiple nights here, so I have plenty of space.













Checked in and unpacked, Levon offered to come with me as I navigated the JR Pass voucher redemption nightmare. As it turned out, it went very smoothly. I tried to find the alternate JR Travel Centre on the 2nd floor but could only see a ticket reservation office. We took a number and were 29th (!) in the queue. After 5 mins, I felt uneasy, as there was zero signage about JR passes there. So I resigned myself to facing the main JR Travel centre on the North side of the statation. I walked in, and about 50 people are sat waiting to be served. The gate guard at the door asked what service I required, and I showed my vouchers... "COME WITH ME!" she boomed and walked us out the door, across the foyer, to a Travel Agency office. There, with no one else waiting, we had our passports verified, and were handed passes within 5 mins.

Levon had the bright idea our ticket upstairs may still be in play, so we went back up, it was, and we had just four people ahead of us now. I had already written out every train and every booking I wanted (5 all up) and was able to hand the young clerk that paper, and she dutifully booked us on limited expresses to shin-Osaka, and Shinkansens to Osaka to Himeji and Hiroshima. It was as smooth as you could ask.

Well pleased at my afternoon's efforts, I'm back in the room to rest my feet; It's been a 22,000 step day already.

We're headed out this evening to tackle Fushimi-Inari after dark, with hopefully a lot less people around.

 

[rbjhan]

That got us through to 2pm, so we grabbed a bite to eat then went and checked in.

Home for the next four days in the Via Inn Prime Kyoto Station Hachijo Exit, just a block south of the station. More or less the same facilities as Nagano, I'd splurged on a larger room for Wen and I as we had multiple nights here, so I have plenty of space.

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Checked in and unpacked, Levon offered to come with me as I navigated the JR Pass voucher redemption nightmare. As it turned out, it went very smoothly. I tried to find the alternate JR Travel Centre on the 2nd floor but could only see a ticket reservation office. We took a number and were 29th (!) in the queue. After 5 mins, I felt uneasy, as there was zero signage about JR passes there. So I resigned myself to facing the main JR Travel centre on the North side of the statation. I walked in, and about 50 people are sat waiting to be served. The gate guard at the door asked what service I required, and I showed my vouchers... "COME WITH ME!" she boomed and walked us out the door, across the foyer, to a Travel Agency office. There, with no one else waiting, we had our passports verified, and were handed passes within 5 mins.

Levon had the bright idea our ticket upstairs may still be in play, so we went back up, it was, and we had just four people ahead of us now. I had already written out every train and every booking I wanted (5 all up) and was able to hand the young clerk that paper, and she dutifully booked us on limited expresses to shin-Osaka, and Shinkansens to Osaka to Himeji and Hiroshima. It was as smooth as you could ask.

Well pleased at my afternoon's efforts, I'm back in the room to rest my feet; It's been a 22,000 step day already.

We're headed out this evening to tackle Fushimi-Inari after dark, with hopefully a lot less people around.

Ha I remember you asking me about this...
So the place that did the exchange, they can't make bookings?

 

[jukebox333]

Back from Inari.

We left the hotel ay 7:30pm, and were in and around the toris by 8pm.

There were *a lot* of people there, and even as we were leaving at 9pm, the arriving train was disgorging still more people.

The path up the hillside is quite long, and so you did tend to get plenty of isolation if you were patient... but here's the thing; many of the people who are there are so ignorant and selfish. There's signs asking you to be quiet, and contemplate in silence. But so many people had kids running around, or groups of teenagers running, yelling, and being teenagers... it definitely broke the vibe at times.

That said, if you let them pass, and waited, you got the serenty a place like this deserved.








If you come to Kyoto, do make time to get out here at night - it's worth the effort.

 

[rbjhan]

If you go all the way to the top, should be quiet because most people can't be bothered
I'm not sure about lighting though since I went in the afternoon.

 

[jukebox333]

Ha I remember you asking me about this...
So the place that did the exchange, they can't make bookings?

Ha, I did!

No, the voucher exchange was a travel agency opposite the city-side JR Travel Centre. They had a JR ticket machine, and after checking all the credentials, printed the area passes. The bookings themselves needed to be done at a JR Booking office - where you take a printed ticket with a number... and wait to be called. I was there at 4pm, but if you lobbed at 6:30am when it opened, it might be quicker.

edit: This was the travel agency:



I was glad I made the effort on Day 1 here - I actually couldn't get 4 seats together Osaka - Himeji for next Saturday (!) on the train I wanted, but the girl offered me seats on one 15 mins later, so I took those. I think the fact I'd printed out all the information - train number, timing, start and finish points, made it easy for her to follow, so she was happy to help. I could see other tourists at the counters either side of us fumbling with bookings, as they didn't come prepared, or hadn't done their homework...

The reviews of the JR counter staff are pretty horrific, but I don't have a bad word to say.

Other's mileage may vary, of course.

 

[rbjhan]

Ha, I did!

No, the voucher exchange was a travel agency opposite the city-side JR Travel Centre. They had a JR ticket machine, and after checking all the credentials, printed the area passes. The bookings themselves needed to be done at a JR Booking office - where you take a printed ticket with a number... and wait to be called. I was there at 4pm, but if you lobbed at 6:30am when it opened, it might be quicker.

edit: This was the travel agency:

View attachment 438681

I was glad I made the effort on Day 1 here - I actually couldn't get 4 seats together Osaka - Himeji for next Saturday (!) on the train I wanted, but the girl offered me seats on one 15 mins later, so I took those. I think the fact I'd printed out all the information - train number, timing, start and finish points, made it easy for her to follow, so she was happy to help. I could see other tourists at the counters either side of us fumbling with bookings, as they didn't come prepared, or hadn't done their homework...

The reviews of the JR counter staff are pretty horrific, but I don't have a bad word to say.

Other's mileage may vary, of course.

If you have the pass already (and haven't made more than 6 reservations), you can make reservations on machines nowadays.

Ah I don't envy the JR staff tbh ....clueless passengers who don't know sxx_ about Japanese railway system....Must confess, I don't normally have that kind of detail info like you did, but I know how things work!

 

[drron]

You certainly did the right thing for a JR office. I always the details written down for bookings i want to make and just handed the note over. On one occasion the agent had very good English and said i wish some of our Japanese passengers would do this.
Very good advice.

 

[jukebox333]

Another 24,000 step day today. Overcast and some showers, chasing sakura yesterday was the right choice.

Started to day by heading out to Arashiyama at 7am. The JR train out there was packed with Kyoto commuters, but as we got off at the station for Arashiyama, it was obvious we were part of a throng... the main street was already crowded, and out at the bamboo grove itself, it wasn't hectic but there were plenty of people.

Patience was rewarded with some photos relatively people free.



By 9am when we were leaving it was packed.

I'd planned to walk up to Adashino temple, to get away from the main crowds, and this worked pretty well.

This was Nisonin Temple, not open when we passed, by lovely framed by sakura;



There were plenty of blossoms back on the main street and around the river crossing, too



We headed for the Hankyu railway station, to catch the train to our next destination...

 

[jukebox333]

...which was the Suntory distillery at Yamazaki.

They do tours and tastings here, but the tickets are quite a hard get. Entry is by lottery, and this opens for the whole month of tours, both English speaking and Japanese, on the 10th of the previous month. When I logged in to try and get tickets, a few minutes after the lottery opened, I was 650th (!) in the queue, and had to wait 20 mins just to fill in my details. 10 days later, the results are announced, and I was lucky enough to score 5 places. You then have to pay ($30/head) within 24 hrs or you loose your spot.






2000 barrels maturing in this store room. 2,000,000 barrels are held in other stores.



The price includes a tour about an hour long, and then a tasting session with five samples, plus you get a tasting glass to keep as a souvenir. It was excellent value for money - and I have to confess the four of us were certainly feeling the warming effects of multiple shots of whisky on the walk back to the station. If you've the slightest interest in whisky, I can unequivically recommend making the effort to get on the tour!

 

[jukebox333]

Feet were getting sore at this point, but drinking on an empty stomach had triggered a primal urge in Levon and I; we wanted that Dragon Burger we missed out on last night, so while Oliver and Lily went back to the hotel to do laundry and rest, Levon and I headed to Tofukuji, where our first stop was Dragon Burger!



Gotta say this was the right food at the right time! A deliciously moist waygu burger, with melted cheese, lettuce and spice, which was just the thing to take the edge of the whisky.

Sated, the plan was to go to Konyo-in Temple, to check out the garden there.





This was exactly how I'd hoped it would be. Us and two other visitors, peaceful, quiet, and gentle.






Tōfuku-ji Temple was nearby on the walk back to the station - we were flagging at this point, so peeked from the gate, but it too had a lot less crowds than the "big name" places, and would also be worth a look if you headed down to this part of Kyoto



Time for a rest before the evening session.

 

[jukebox333]

Oliver was keen for yakiniku for dinner, and singled out Gyu-Kaku in Gion. The Via Inn has great connections to public transport, and one block south we could pick up the 207 bus that would take us almost all the way. It was empty when we boarded it, but as we got closer to Gion, the lines at the bus stops were crazy busy.

I hadn't been a fan of yakiniku, but Gyu-Kaku was okay. Some cuts were better than others, and with bottomless drinks as an option, you could come away feeling you'd gotten good value for money. If you hadn't spent the morning at a whisky distillery, you might even get excellent value for money!

It started raining while we were eating, and when I came out, I spent a little time taking some more night time shots, but it's a big day again tomorrow, so I was back in the room by 9:30pm









Tommorrow is an early start to Gion, then we are off to Nara...

 

[jukebox333]

A nice early alarm saw me on the 6am bus to Gion. The 20min bus ride from the hotel stops right near Yasaka-dori, and it was just a short walk up the hill to The Money Shot™



I rounded the corner and there appeared to be some sort of commercial photo shoot happening - but with that out the way, the throng that had already assembled was able to have a crack at Instagram fame.



The vibe was not great. People were sniping at one another about who was there first. It wasn,t at all collegiate, but at the end of the day with a little patience, everyone had a go. Even me.



The cliche, captured.

Around the corner was another scene I'd seen 1000 times...



Yes, it was well worth getting up early to see these spots with a degree of sanity. Do it, because later in the day it will be a living hell.

But the real reward for me was walking north from there, to Marayuma Park.

The area around the weeping cherry is set up for some sort of night drinking festival, with stalls, and tarpaulins everywhere, and is just horrific, but the alleys and side streets leading up to it from the pagoda delivered the "small views" that I have been taken by.

















These are the sights I will treasure - and miss not being able to share with Wendy. They are just quiet, gentle moments. That's a Japan I want to enjoy and remember.

Go to Gion. Go early. Take the backstreets and savour them!

 

[jukebox333]

Oliver and Lily hadn't seen Fushimi Inari, because they didn't come out for the night visit Levon and I did, so I took them out there after I came back from Gion.

The 8:30am train to Inari was Tokyo-subway packed, and the walk to the start of the toris was mayhem...



It was a solid, slow shuffle halfway up the mountain, but a lot of the crowd (75%?) stopped at the first serious steps up - the place Levon and I had quit during the night visit - but today, the three of us pushed on. We were rewarded with a lot less people, and thankfully a really thoughtful group of fellow tourists who made way and paused for one another so people could get some shots without it looking like a stampede



I'm really glad because I know this was a bucket list thing for Lily, and the sardine situation lower down the hill was a big disappointment for her.

I even got to see some of the shrines at the top I had missed a couple of nights ago



I suspect if you came out here at 6am, like Gion, you could get some solitude. When we went at 8pm it was still busy-ish, so I don't think going at the end of the day will help much.

Fushimi is a huge attraction, and it's just a case of everyone wanting to do it. My night time visit felt really special, and I can recommend it, but I also get that most people will want to see it by daylight.

It's the curse of over tourisim.

 

[jukebox333]

After Fushimi, Oliver and Lily had tickets to go to the Nintendo Museum, so they went off there. Levon and I headed for Nara.

So did about 1/4 of the tourists in Kyoto, apparently:












It was supposed to rain today, but ended up warm and sunny in Nara.

Watching the deer bail up tourists was mildly entertaining - 3 mins of research would have told them you don't walk around with the deer biscuits they sell visible, because the deer know what they are, and do get quite bold. If you don't have any food, they leave you alone.



Like Gion, there were moments of solace to be had away from the throng:







But these were a lot harder to find, and a lot less intimate than Gion.

If you are a temple fan, or a fan of history, I'm sure it's quite the destination, but the half day was enough for me.

 

[Dmac59]

This is such an informative TR @jukebox333
Your photography and narrative are excellent and provide an excellent insight.
I also hope Wendy is on the improve.

 

[jukebox333]

This is such an informative TR @jukebox333
Your photography and narrative are excellent and provide an excellent insight.
I also hope Wendy is on the improve.

Thanks @Dmac59

Wendy was discharged this afternoon, and moved into the JAL City hotel we stayed in in Nagano. She'll be there a few nights till the doctors are happy she's okay to travel, then she'll be escorted home all the way to our door. RAC Travel Insurance has done a great job so far.

 

[jukebox333]

A couple of months back, I saw there were night illuminations at Koji castle in Kyoto, so booked us tickets for a viewing session tonight.

NAKED meets 二条城 2025 桜

春の京都は桜が咲き誇る世界遺産・二条城へ。ネイキッドのデジタルアートで夜桜の美しさに浸る幻想空間。お花見屋台が登場し飲食メニューも充実。夜桜とアートが織りなす春の一夜をお楽しみください。

event.naked.works

It wasn't a lot of money, and I think some of the blossoms may have peaked, but it was a reasonable evening out











The evening was a little chilly, and looking for somewhere to eat, we found a yakisoba place on a backstreet, and ended the night with a bit of dinner theatre watching the chef cook us up our feeds (I asked permission to photograph first - just think it's good manners, tbh - he was very happy to have his photo taken)







Another early start tomorrow, for a rather long day trip...

 

[jukebox333]

Oliver and Lily loved the Nintendo Museum - loads of historic stuff, and a gift shop to die for, apparently...









Oliver hasn't quite figured out how he's getting this home:



"Two flights, Oliver. Remember you have *two* flights to get back to Brisbane" were my parting words when I left him this morning...

 

[Seat0B]

Glad to hear Wendy is on the mend. What a trouper she was to keep pushing on for as long as she did with such a serious illness. I'm very sorry you won't get to have the trip all together though, after all that planning. Hang in there.

 

[rbjhan]

I'm known to be an impulsive buyer in Japan never got anything that size though