The Virgin Traveller

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Chicago
Despite a forecast of thunderstorms, we woke to a beautifully warm and sunny day. Believing there was still a chance of storms, I headed out with a jumper and umbrella, only to wish I’d taken a hat and sunscreen instead. With a quick Starbucks stop for breakfast (chai and a yoghurt, quick and cheap), we headed towards Navy Pier. A reliable source had told me to take an architecture cruise, and they were certainly right. There were a couple to choose from, but I settled on Chicago Cruise Lines. Tickets aren’t cheap (around $48 with tax), but the cruise is incredibly well run; there is so much information about the architects who have designed this city from the ground up, and I walked away with a new appreciation for the sky scrapers of Chicago. The cruise also included free hot/cold drinks, and cookies and muffins; that might be what sold me on them to start with. But 90 minutes in the sun and I was roasted.

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After the cruise we wandered down onto Navy Pier. It’s a bit of a mess at the moment as they redevelop it, so we didn’t stay long. Only long enough for a quick peek in the tourist-oriented shops and an ice-cream. Then back to the hotel to shed the jeans and change over to shorts because it was hot! Not wanting to head too far with what was left of the day, it was time to tick of one of Chicago’s many art galleries and museums; The Museum of Contemporary Art. There is some lovely art in there and it didn’t take too long to look at all the exhibits.

In need of some proper exercise, I decided to use the hotel gym. Big mistake. The one lonely exercise bike appeared to be older than me, with no working resistance settings. The three elliptical machines appeared to hail from three different decades. Fortunately they had a few good weight machines so I wasn’t completely out of luck.
We asked one of the girls on the front desk for a dinner recommendation and she sent us to Rosebud on Rush, an Italian restaurant not far from the hotel. Quite a decent choice, great service, and I enjoyed Rigatoni alla Vodka, which was a tomato, mascarpone and vodka sauce.

Day two was ambitious, as we decided to so both the Art Institute and the Field Museum. We walked from the hotel to Millennium Park to take a look at Cloud Gate aka The Bean. The Bean is pretty much the first thing I ever knew about Chicago (aside from watching ER when I was younger).

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The Art Institute has a pretty impressive collection, with older works in the front section, and 1960s+ in the new section out the back. If time is limited, the guide book highlights which works are a must-see. We were glad that we started with the Impressionists, as when we returned to the same room half an hour later, all the works had been removed and there were some unhappy people wandering around. I’ve always been a fan of Monet so it was nice to see some different works. I also really enjoyed Americas Windows which is down the back of the newer section; three stain-glass windows which represent dance, music, literature and other iconic images.

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On a schedule, we ducked across the road for a quick sandwich, then continued south to the Field Museum. This place is massive and we knew we had no hope of seeing it all. Some of the exhibits are quite similar to what you would see in New York’s Natural History Museum. We also selected on “special” exhibit with our ticket, on biomechanics. Although I have a science background, it was quite a good exhibit, with various interactive displays explaining how different animals move. Tired after our mammoth effort, we caught the red line train back to our hotel.

For dinner we were again collected by TomVexille’s mum, who took us to El Nuevo Mexican restaurant in one of the northern suburbs. The pomegranate margaritas were quite impressive. Then after dinner we headed back into the city, determined to take in a view of the city from up high. We bee lined for the John Hancock tower and the Signature Lounge on the 96[SUP]th[/SUP] floor. For the price of a drink you get to enjoy the view across the city at your own pace. We were seated immediately, and soon after when the window tables emptied, we were moved into a prime position. For $50, four of us got to enjoy the view, versus approx $20 each to go to the observation deck.

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We decided to takes things slightly slower for our third and final day in Chicago, electing to visit the Museum of Science and Industry. This one is a little further south of Chicago and isn’t the easiest to get to on public transport. A few people suggested a cab was the most convenient. Although full of school kids, this is a really great place to interact with the displays. Although a lot of it wasn’t new information for me, I had a great time playing with everything. They even have a “twister” that you can experience. I also love the United 727 that is suspended in one wing, and there are great pictures showing how it was moved into the museum. I picked the Disney special exhibit which was quite good, as I really didn’t know a lot of the Walt Disney back story, and followed it up with The Flight of the Butterflies in the Omnimax theatre. It’s a bit like an Imax, but the screen is round, and at some points you get the feeling you might fall off your seat and into the screen.

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Knowing I was in need of some alternative company, TomVexille set me up to have dinner with one of his friends, and she collected me from the hotel lobby. The big thing in Chicago is deep dish pizza, and I was not leaving without trying it. There are a couple of different restaurants, and most locals have a strong opinion on which one they prefer, but we were off to Lou Malnatis. We got on like a house on fire, and she guided me through the menu. Between the wine, pizza, deep dish cookie and the company, the evening flew by and it was time to head back to the hotel and ready our bags for the flight to San Francisco in the morning.
 
Thanks heaps for the TR it is so wonderful that AFF members take the time to send such great TR, when they are so busy it's wonderful you all find the time, but those of us who don't travel that often really appreciate the effort you all go to, you provide great insights into cities we had never thought about visiting and then the photos, oh they are all so good, would put anything I could produce to shame. Thanks to all AFF who provide such great reports, your time and energy is very much appreciated.
 
I'm absolutely loving this TR - please keep the posts coming!! - this will definitely be the basis of my future travel plans for the USA!!
 
If you are really looking for a good outlet mall, you might want to try Gilroy since you are in san Francisco (I've been to all mentioned and Gilroy surpases them all) it's about a half hour south of San jose.
Also on your trip down the coast you might like The Flying Dutchman in Morro Bay, just past Hearst Castle on the 1, or the Apple Farm in San Luis Obispo a little further down 1.
 
And you can smell the garlic-Gilroy proclaiming itself the garlic capital of the world.
 
Chicago to San Francisco
Our shuttle collected us from the hotel at 7.25am, and after a minor delay picking up someone who wasn’t ready, we were on our way. Traffic was atrocious, and it took about an hour to get to ORD. We used self-check to save time, then took our suitcases to the bag drop. I asked the attendant if he could add the Priority Tags and he replied Of course! I told him that VX has refused and he responded with “Oh, we’re much better than them”. So true. Priority screening was a breeze (mum was blessed with the pre-check again), and we headed towards the lounge. 9am is never too early for a sparkling while travelling so I collected some Chandon from the bar. Our AAngel met us in the lounge and escorted us to the gate, and into the Priority Boarding line. And it all went downhill. The gate agent kept scanning people from the general line, and snapped at me when I asked to be processed. Eventually our escort had to shove our boarding passes under her nose, as it was clear she wasn’t in the mood to stop general boarding for us.

The flight was pretty standard. We had MCE seats in row 9, either side of the aisle. I paid for some wifi to keep myself entertained for the 4.5 hour flight. The seat belt sign seemed to be left on more than was necessary, and as with most AA flights, a lot of people ignored it. The flight passed pretty quickly and soon we were on decent into San Francisco.

We were collected by Super Shuttle and while usually good, this experience was not. We ended up with a full bus, and luggage up to the roof which risked landing on the people in the back every time we stopped. And one girl had her fingers slammed in the door by the driver. But we arrived at the hotel safely, some two hours after getting off the flight (and a win on priority baggage).

The Hilton Union Square is a massive hotel! The line for check-in was massive but we made use of the HHons line, and checked in pretty quickly. I got a bargain rate for the hotel, and we were put in tower one in a room on level 20 with a nice view to the west. I was expecting to have to pay for wifi, but it appeared for free and I thought we were on a winner, but the next day, payment was requested. The room isn’t massive but it’s suitable for sleeping and showering. The aircon isn’t great; its set on 65 but the lowest we can get it to is 71 and then of course housekeeping turn it off and the room turns into a sauna during the day. But the beds are good and the location is convenient, so we’re pretty happy.
 
San Francisco
I have a Canadian friend living in San Fran, so she collected us from the hotel to take us for a drink. We started with Jones, arriving just as the doors opened at 5pm, and it was quite funny to watch the mad scramble for tables. We snagged one, and enjoyed some $5 coughtails (sangria) and a few nibbles. We were contemplating the dinner menu and a few more drinks when we were advised that tables have a two hour limit. Even our desire for a meal was not enough to secure the table for longer, so we made a move. My friend headed home to see her husband, and mum and I popped into Jaspers, across the road from the Hilton, for a pretty fabulous chicken cobb salad. This bar would become our haunt for the next few days. Post-dinner, mum retired to the hotel while I joined my friend and her husband for a few drinks before crashing into bed after quite a long day.

Our first full day in San Fran was upon us and after our first proper American breakfast as Jaspers (and a good cuppa), we headed down to Powell st to catch the cable car. It seems one destination is more popular (Powell & Hyde), and the line was massive, but before too long we were on our way. We were chugging up and down hills and I remembered just how walking-unfriendly the city really is.

Cable Car.jpg

We hopped off at the end and spent a little time exploring the far end of the Fisherman’s Wharf area. We may have indulged in some Ghiradelli hot chocolate while we were there. Then I became mum’s least favourite person when I made her walk back up the hill (and up some of Lombard street), so we could look at the “crooked” part before catching the cable car back to Market st. Then we had a mission: shopping!


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For dinner my friend and I ventured to the Mission district, and although we had a great meal, its not a place I suggest anyone wander alone.

Friday was wine day! This won’t help my apparent reputation as the wine girl, but the three of us spent the day on a bus doing a Napa wine tour. We were collected at 8.30am from Union square by a Limo bus and were soon hurtling towards the Golden Gate Bridge. The fog was in, and we had all of about 2 minutes to pop off the bus to grab a quick photo. Then we were back on the bus eating croissant and drinking champagne and orange juice on our way to the first winery. I won’t go into too much detail but the wineries were:

  1. Jacuzzi (favourite wine there was the Lagrein and the Pinot Grigo Rosetta)
  2. Roche (not a white drinker usually but their Chardonnay was nice enough for me to buy one)
  3. Madonna Estate
  4. Jamieson Ranch (nice Pinot Noir, and the dessert wine was a fabulous $45 for a tiny bottle. They also had mini ponies that were allowed inside)

Wine.jpg

We crawled back onto the bus after the last winery, and a few people (ok most people) cracked open their wines to drink on the way home, though I’m not that silly. Then a CD was popped on and the singing began; it reminded me a little of being on a Contiki bus…. Back in the city, a few of us rolled into a bar, but after a drink and some nibbles I was done, and wandered back to the hotel for a very important Skype date.

Day three was punishment day; my friend coerced me into attending an 8.30am bootcamp. I am blessed to not suffer from hangovers but the class was brutal! I’m still walking like a wounded duck. Recovery shower and a good breakfast then we were off to the Fisherman’s Wharf farmers market. The variety of fresh fruit and veg is phenomenal! Lots of little samples to taste, and we bought some amazing produce for dinner. Then a little more shopping (of course). Dinner was at my friends place; we provided two bottles of wine from Friday, and she and her husband served up anamazing vegetarian meal. A little walk around the Tender Nob, and then, our time in San Francisco had come to an end.

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The tall building with the lights on top is Tower One of the Hilton.
 
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San Fran to Monterey
We picked up the car from opposite the hotel and hit the road, mindful that the Bay to Breakers run would result in a few detours. Alittle over an hour later (!!) we were on the Great Highway and heading south. Only a relatively short hop to Monterey, but already the views were quite spectacular. Being the driver I missed out on taking some great photos, only a few iPad shots from my navigator.

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([-]If a mod could flip the photo I'd appreciate it[/-] Done!)

The hotel we chose was just off Cannery Row which was convenient for a quick overnight stay. We got free wine and cheese in the afternoon, free breakfast, and free but quite dodgy wifi. We took a little wander along the row and enjoyed the view a little more, then headed back to the hotel for a freshen up and a dinner recommendation.


We were sent to El Torito for Mexican food, but alas this place does not serve the amazing Mexican that California is known for. The margaritas were good, but dinner took over an hour as they had a large group upstairs. The waiter was fabulous and I felt sorry for him given his tips were probably affected. The view from the restaurant is pretty spectacular however.


We also discovered that night that the hotel was not particularly soundproof. The person upstairs spent over half an hour stomping back and forth before showering, then repeated the process at 5am. Combined with rather short beds, I'm glad it was just a one-night stop.
 
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Used Go Shuttle to get to the hotel. Handed over the IHG plat card on arrival even though booking was made through hotels.com; she let me know there'd be no points which I was aware of anyway. But given a little bag with water and potato chips, and the wifi password and sent to a room right near the top of the building, with a great view.

Chicago
As I’ve said above, we got a few IHG platinum perks. The hotel is nothing fancy; I’d say it’s quite old. But the beds are comfy and the view from the 36th floor (of a 40 story building) is pretty fabulous, looking south towards the Willis (Sears) Tower and the Trump Tower. The fitness centre, however, could do with a little attention.

I don't think you mentioned which Hotel you stayed at in Chicago, other than indicating it was part of IHG. I was wondering where you stayed? I'm trying to book my accommodation for Chicago in August, and current options looking good are Sofitel Chicago Water Tower (Platinum with Accor) or Holiday Inn Chicago-Mart Plaza River North (Unfortunately, my compliementary VA IHG Platinum has lapsed). Do you have any suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks
 
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