There and Back on QF/SQ/SK/LX: Starring the SQ A380

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Stockholm is beautiful during the Christmas season, full of festive spirit and cheer. And not just the commercialised kind of festive spirit, Myers' and David Jones' style either though there was certainly some of that in the upscale shopping districts.

Christmas lunch cruise
Buffet style, truly indulgent. Cost of cruise do not include drinks. I appeared to be the only tourist on the cruise. It was fascinating to observe how local families conduct their Christmas feasts. Every bit as decadent as we'd do back home of course, except with mull wine because it's so cold here, and heaps of pickled herring. And lots of caroling.

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The cruise takes you out to plenty of little islands. Much better to do lunch than dinner so you can check out the sights. When you get back at almost 4pm it'd be dark outside at this time of the year anyway so you also get to admire the city lights on the lunch cruise - best of both worlds.

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Big Christmas tree and ski centre
Rather Rockefeller-esque but obviously a fair bit smaller.

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Christmas market
A rather pretty sight! Everyone was giving out free samples of their wares, so plan your trip to Stockholm around this time of the year and you'd get fed free at lunch that way.

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Young carolers
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Next: SK1555 ARN-AMS whY; Hotel V Frederiksplein Amsterdam
 
Sector - ARN-AMS
Flight number - SK1555
Class - Economy
Equipment - B737-500
Seat - 6C


Checked in quickly and easily at the totally deserted *G/JCL desk. For some reason I showed up as BD*B in The System despite having removed and re-entered my number in Sabre when I achieved *G. So thankfully I've already got my card which was once again needed for lounge entry as the lounge dragon needed to swipe it.

The SAS lounge was comfy and functional with a v tidy look. I reckon the Scandinavian carriers I've experienced thus far, SAS and Finnair have rather sleek lounges, if a bit IKEA like. V spartan food selection, 2 choices of wine on tap (1 red, 1 white). Most importantly and for me would be almost the point of an airline lounge, there's free wifi to while the time away with.

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Not much to speak of when it comes to the onboard experience. SAS intra Europe whY is like an LCC, ie buy-on-board food and drink. The seat is identical to the C seat as per most intra Europe C products.

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But SAS is even more brutally austere than most in that the only thing distinguishing the C and whY+ cabins is little signs fitted on seats indicating the start/end of those cabins. Apart from the rather dubious looking food and acquiring extra miles , I can't imagine anyone paying a premium to fly in C or whY+. Unless the fare difference between a flexible whY fare and a C fare is negligible of course, for those who need that sort of flexibility.

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Next: Hotel V Frederiksplein, Amsterdam; An unexpected Lufty C experience
 
Review of the Hotel V Frederiksplein, Amsterdam has been posted here.

Next: An unexpected Lufty experience: AMS-FRA LH4677 C; FRA-HKG LH738 C; Another WoW stay at the W Hong Kong
 
Sector - AMS-FRA
Flight number - LH4677
Class - Business
Equipment - B737-???
Seat - 1D


You're probably wondering why I'm writing about Lufty rather than SWISS despite the thread title.

Thoughts of many a jolly moment supping on bottle after bottle of Swiss pinot noir were suddenly shattered when I got a panicky phone call whilst in my hotel room from a friend, Pieter who works at Schiphol Airport and had received notification on his system that SWISS had cancelled my flight. A call to the local SWISS office immediately followed where I found out that my flight was zapped due to "bad weather in Zurich" and, more importantly, that I've been rebooked on Lufthansa via Frankfurt. I was mildly disappointed as I've been looking forward to fly SWISS for their excellent vinos, and whilst Lufthansa in F is a top shelf class act - I've not been on their other long haul cabins and haven't heard very many flattering remarks about them. But I s'pose beggars can't be choosers. One good outcome was that I now have a much shorter connection in FRA than I had in ZRH, and the new itinerary gets me into HKG some 5 hours earlier. My email to the W requesting for an early check in was promptly replied to in the affirmative (within 15 minutes of sending said email - WoW!). I was advised to be at the airport a little earlier so that my ticket can be reissued. I thanked Pieter profusely for warning me about the cancellation or I'd have arrived at the airport too late.

I arrived at the SWISS ticket office in Schiphol to find an extremely long queue of people in the same situation as I was. The Lufthansa counter which was just next to the SWISS one was empty, and I'd decided to try my luck doing the ticket reissue there (hey they virtually share the same office), throwing in my shiny LH card in with my ticket for good measure. Noticing my Senator card, the dude at the LH desk was more than happy to perform the requisite formalities (lots of keyboard tapping). In no time at all I was checked in through to Hong Kong at the empty FCL/SEN/HON queue, with aisle seats assigned. The very nice LH check in chick also cheerily announced that seats next to me have been blocked as both flights weren't full. This I didn't expect as seat blocking isn't a published benefit, but I guess one of the nice things about "home carrier" status is you get lots of unpublished benefits which make your journey just that little bit more special.

LH uses the Servisair lounge at AMS which is nothing really special but still a pleasant space away from the rest of the terminal. No free wifi in AMS. Had some of the red wine (a cab sauv) which was rather quaffable, and whiled my time away reading the unfolding political scandal surrounding the Governor of Illinois.

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On the way to the boarding gate I met a fellow pax on the same flight. It turned out that he was going to be sitting across the aisle from me. I was quite fascinated about his flying destination - Iran. He mentioned that he'd been there many times for business and whilst quite apprehensive the first time, he'd grown to love the country and its apparently v friendly people.

Very long queue at the gate with no separate lines for shiny card holders or premium pax. At the entry to the aircraft I was greeted by the v suave GQ model, umm Head FA (QF CSM / SQ IFS equivalent, not sure what they're called on LH) who offered to hang up mine and my fellow pax's coats. Seat 1D not only offered great legroom as the bulkhead didn't extend to the D seat, but I could also steal quick glances at aforementioned rather hunky Head FA who displayed some v talented multi tasking skills - he made the cabin announcements flawlessly in both German and English (without once looking at a script) whilst dancing around the galley (as far as the microphone cord would allow him anyway) prepping it for departure, and gesticulating randomly to his assistant.

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We sat at the gate for a while, no reason for the delay was forthcoming. I had a technically adequate connecting time at FRA but knowing the vastness of that airport, I got a little anxious with the reduction in my connecting time.

Very soon after take off, I was offered a platter of savoury goodies which were washed down with bubbles. The Head FA caught me examining the container of mulling spices and v kindly explained how mulled wine is traditionally done in Germany. I'd remarked that I enjoyed mulled wine in Stockholm and this led to an interesting conversation about the subtle differences between the Swedish and German varieties. I was offered some of the mulled wine they had onboard but declined as I wasn't really in the mood and simply felt like sipping on the bubbly, which was v promptly topped up.

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The flight only landed 5 minutes behind schedule. We arrived at a bus gate - just my luck! But despite the anxiety about making my connection - I felt that we arrived far too soon. ;)
 
Sector - FRA-HKG
Flight number - LH738
Class - Business
Equipment - B747-400
Seat - 1A


We got a little behind-the-scenes tour of FRA as we whirled around on the b*s. I was getting quite anxious about making the connection. Although I know that I'd be protected in the event of the misconnect, I didn't want to deal with the hassle of rebooking etc. So I geared up for a marathon race through FRA, Amazing Race style, and took off like a banshee the moment I got off the b*s. It was a long run to the C gates in T1 where my flight was due to depart, but I made it a few mins before boarding was called - sweating muchly. The SEN lounge was just around the corner and I'd decided to take the opportunity to pop in for a quick cold one to cool myself down.

At the gate I bumped into an SQTalk lurker who recognised me from my pictures on the forum. Coincidentally we were not only traveling on the same flight but he was also going to be seated near me. We exchanged a few travel tales and mileage-related tips whilst we waited for boarding - the usual FFer stuff.

Boarding was a bit messy, as once again there weren't separate queues for elite or premium pax. But at least there were separate jetways for FCL and JCL pax which shielded us from the heaving masses. LH's business class cabin was entirely on the main deck, and our seats were located in the nose of the plane - ah such a nice feeling to turn left, almost as if I wasn't 'slumming' it in JCL. ;)

There was ample space in row 1, which is also right in front of the coat closet. I was originally assigned 1C but had no one next to me as 1A was blocked so I simply moved to 1A and left all the onboard paraphrenelia in 1C. Amenity kits and headsets were already at the seat. My coat was swiftly hung up, but the fizz wasn't forthcoming. It wasn't till the doors were closed that pre take off bevvies were offered. Champagne Jacquart for me - quite a quaffable one, finely balanced with enough sweetness to accompany the acidity but not so sweet as to render it sickly sweet. No time for seconds, but I was assurred with a wink by one of the rather charming FAs that there'd be ample supply of the fizz to go around after take off.

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legroom in 1C

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legroom in 1A
 
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amenity kit - dull and uninteresting

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Shortly after take off, the v amiable purser came around to introduce herself personally to each pax, as well as to distribute menus. Bar service commenced. The v cool FA already knew what I wanted, and was both eager and efficient in topping me up. I'd also took the opportunity to check out the IFE - the hardware wasn't too bad but the selection was extremely limited and dated. Wound up watching Fred Claus.

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Dinner was soon served. At first glance, LH's JCL catering seems v interesting and sophisticated like QF's, almost as creative as LH FCL cuisine. But the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Alas I had to pass up on the rather exciting green tea noodle option as it contained shellfish. The other entree wasn't too bad but was a bit bland. The fish main was delicious; the fish was fresh and mouth-meltingly good, complemented well with the yummy rissotto. I'd almost decided to ask for seconds but for fear of not being able to finish. All washed down v well with a few glasses of the Italian cabernet, Cheese platter was rather plain, though had some delicious selections - some garnishes to complement the cheeses like pear paste would've been nice. Declined coffee/tea, but I was given a chocolate Santa anyway.

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I'd decided to call it a night after dinner as I hadn't had much sleep the night before. Changed into my QF J PJs, which were rather fetching when not worn on QF as Skippy was proudly emblazoned on my torso. This of course led to some conversations with the crew about home and how much they'd love to visit. One of them had backpacked through Australia before, and to my disgrace he's seen more of my own backyard than I have (I've never been to the NT or much of FNQ for instance). It was quite fun to socialise with the LH crew and I was also eagerly welcomed to relieve the galley of its bubbles and wines. The crew I met were all rather articulate, witty and had a great sense of fun - I don't know where all the stereotypes about soulless and dour LH FAs come from.

Sleep deprived from partying the night before in Amsterdam, and drowsy from the free flowing drops of Jacquart, riesling and cabernet, I was fast asleep after settling down into the fairly comfy angled flat bed.

I woke up just as brekky was served, and the FA nearest to me handed me a hot towel. I probably should have gone for the more interesting sounding cold option but I'm a creature of habit - cooked egg and ham are almost compulsory in the morning. Washed down with more bubbles of course. The LH C brekky was rather anemic however.

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Menu for this flight here.

We made a punctual landing at HKIA, where once again there's a neverending queue for immigration as I'd procrastinated too much in applying for the HK Frequent Traveller Card.

A rather pleasant experience on LH C on the whole. Great set of crew, never too much trouble for any of them. Pretty good selections on the wine list despite lacking in Antipodean vintages. Catering was fair. Though of course nothing like the delights of flying QF J, I'd quite enjoyed LH C and would consider it a viable option amongst the *A carriers.

Next: WoWness at the West KoWloon Wonderland (aka my Marvellous Suite at the W Hong Kong)
 
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Sector - HKG-SIN
Flight number - SQ863
Class - First
Equipment - B777-300
Seat - 3C


Did ITCI at Kowloon Airport Express station. What was meant to be a straightforward process turned into 30 mins of waiting with lots of phoning, keyboard tapping, and a passive aggressive check in agent. I had a long overnight transit in SIN due to lack of award availability and hence wanted to be checked in only to SIN. I was told that I needed to be checked all the way to MEL as I was ticketed as a transit pax via SIN, and that the system wouldn't allow her to check my suitcase or I only to SIN. I pointed out that this was rubbish as I'd done so many times before and had only checked in identically, at the same airport no less, barely 2 weeks ago. When she couldn't get hold of a supervisor, the SQ contract agent (Jardine Air Services) gave in and offered to check me in to SIN as a 'one time exception', but warned that I'd be up for extra airport taxes at SIN. Knowing that was complete nonsense and getting hungrier by the minute, I hastily agreed and finally got checked in. SQ needs a fresh tender for ground services in HKG...

Enjoyed some yum cha with a friend at a nice yum cha resto at Elements Mall, and got to the airport a tad late. I pretty much ran to the gate upon arriving air side as my flight was boarding. Sank into my seat sweaty and out of breath, and gratefully accepted a glass of Krug from the LS.

The cabin crew on this flight was probably the best I've experienced on this trip. A rather charming and engaged IFS, backed up by his spirited and enthusiastic colleagues, an LS and a LSS. All were also down to earth class acts and made a great team. Great people to fly with - the kind that make you wish a flight was longer. Hopes that the LS would be serving me again the following morning to MEL were dashed when we realised that he's on SQ217 whilst I was on SQ211 which left an hour later. The only other pax in FCL was either fast asleep for much of the flight or drank only water or juice, and I was told that it was my duty to deplete the supply of bubbles onboard or they'd have to tip it down the sink. Naturally i rose to the challenge.

I'd last flown this exact same flight 2 weeks before in the same month so naturally the menu was identical. I asked about the missing "shi quan shi mei" meal (special multi course Chinese meal SQ serves in FCL on routes to/from China, Taiwan and Hong Kong SAR) as a sharp eyed SQTalker had noted its absence when I'd posted the menu, and the LSS responded that she hadn't seen it on several HKG flights she's served recently apart from the SFO through flight.

As I've had lunch, I simply skipped ahead to cheese and dessert. Washed down with plenty of Krug of course. The cheese platter was generously portioned, and the chocolate pudding was simply out of this world - recommended the latter to the LSS when she came soliciting my opinion on what to have for her own lunch.

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I'd finished 'my' bottle of Krug and asked for more, only to discover that only 1 bottle of Krug was loaded on regionals. I wasn't really enamoured with the wines on offer, and hence proceeded to move on to the DP 2000. Though I do not like DP as much as Krug, it's still a fairly good drop in its own right. Drinking it after Krug is probably a good idea as it numbs the sweetness in the DP somewhat.

All too soon we'd made a punctual landing at Changi Airport and it was a quick walk through the ghost town that T2 has become.

Next: SQ211 SIN-MEL F
 
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Sector - SIN-MEL
Flight number - SQ211
Class - First
Equipment - B777-300
Seat - 1A


At check in I was told that, pending op ups from JCL due to an overbooked flight, I'd be the only person in FCL. I salivated at the prospect of yet another FCL ride - no one to share 'my' Krug!

I was held up at check in for a bit due to issues with the API, so there was v little time for Flounging. I could not find the bubbles and could not be bothered hounding the lounge staff for it, so I simply had some beer to clear the haze. I could see the gate from the Flounge, so I'd simply strolled there when boarding commenced - stopping briefly to host an FTer into the SKL F.

We went through some sort of centralised security checkpoint. It was quiet at that time of the day with only pax from 2 flights using it, but I can see how it might lead to long delays at peak time. I was held up at the gate by an overexcited GA who, bless her soul, insisted that I was some Japanese fashion designer that she happened to be a fan of. Flattered as I was, I had to gently let her down - if only because I couldn't wait to start on the onboard champers.

The crew confirmed that I was the only pax onboard FCL today. My BTC order of Kyo Kaiseki was duly confirmed. Without further ado I was served a glass of Krug by the FS (first time seeing one in FCL) as requested. Special handling staff escorted a VIP to JCL, a Malaysian politician according to the IFS.

Seats were the regional type, but this was the only flight that had availability on the day. It was a relatively short day flight so the regional seats didn’t worry me too much – I had grog to keep me happy. Having no one to share ‘my’ bubbles and vino with was certainly the crema on the espresso. I’d used to consider 7 hours to be long haul but I guess I’m so used to the SIN/HKG-MEL segments that they start to feel short compared to really long segments like LAX or LHR. This flight also happened to be the seasonal 4th SQ daily to MEL to cater to popular demand during this time of the year. Not in FCL though, evidently.

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empty FCL cabin

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seat 1A

I was handed the menu/wine list, when the bad news broke. Because I'd BTC'd the Kyo Kaiseki, a full meal in its own right unlike other BTC options, NOTHING had been loaded for the onboard menu, aside from the pre-landing refreshment!! I was rather disappointed as I was looking forward to mixing and matching the Kyo Kaiseki items with the onboard entrees. So no caviar for me today. :(:( A caveat for the long standing advice on SQTalk that BTC can be declined if an onboard option appeals - you might not be able to decline BTC if you're the only pax! Being a big fan of caviar and cheeses I'm avoiding the Kaiseki meal in future, just in case. Now if only I'd stuck to my initial BTC of lamb rack (thought to appear quite a lot onboard Australian sectors) as there wasn't any of that on the onboard menu...
 
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After take off, I was served more Krug as requested.

The crew on this flight was starkly mixed. The FS, whose main job seemed to be serving the tipples, was efficient and polite, but was more cold and overly formal than engaged or friendly. OTOH the LSS and IFS were a lot more warm and engaging, and anticipated my needs rather than sticking to the bare minimum or routine. I was also impressed that a passing CS from the JCL cabin noticed my empty champagne flute and topped it up before I had a chance to press the call bell.

The meal service soon began. The IFS managed to find bread rolls and cheese so all was not lost. I had some garlic bread and supped on Krug whilst the crew prepped my meal. I'd informed them of my shellfish allergy and they worked to remove anything containing shellfish.

IFE on this flight was non-AVOD. Choices were rather limited. Defo the worst IFE of all 4 SQ flights this trip.

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The platter of cold entrees was soon presented to me, with a pictorial guide to the individual dishes so that I could chuck out anything I wasn't supposed to eat in case the crew missed them. The crew had done a v good job removing all traces of shellfish though. Next, a tray of hot dishes was set in front of me, with another pictorial guide. The crew had substituted my rice, for it’d contained crab meat, with plain rice. Ben Riggs’ v delicious McLaren Vale shiraz was once again on the list (‘The Gaffer’ in case anyone’s wondering) so I’d switched to it for my mains. I wish that Australian or NZ wine would feature more regularly on SQ’s wine list. Others might prefer Old World offerings of course, but the intense fruit-driven characters of Australian/NZ wines are what I particularly enjoy. Another reason why QF with an all-Australian wine list featuring fine wines from vineyards across the country (and even NZ offerings on flights across the Tasman) win it for me – I can be assured of something I like on every flight.

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Guessing quite accurately that I was stuffed, the IFS offered to delay dessert till later. Meanwhile I supped on more Krug and looked at the flight map from time to time. There wasn’t anything that I wanted to watch on the IFE and I’d finished reading my book, so I’d simply ploughed through the onboard selection of magazines or chatted with the crew. I was also handed an amenity kit and PJs in case I wanted to have a snooze. The amenity kit that was presented on this flight was different to the one I had in Suites.

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3 hours before landing I decided to have dessert. The Japanese dessert looked rather strange, and so I’d avoided that and simply had some cheeses. Declined the port. The shiraz complemented the cheeses most beautifully.

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After finishing 2 platters of the nice cheeses and the bottle of shiraz, I stuck with Krug for the rest of the flight. I wasn’t v enamoured with the refreshment and hence declined it.

The descent soon commenced for Tulla. It’s always nice going away on holidays, but nicer coming back and spot the first glimpses of home when the aircraft starts to descend. Before too long we’d made a punctual arrival at MEL, where after a brief stop to pick up some Moet Reserve Imperial on specials at duty free, I breezed through CIQ and was landside in less than 30 mins where the boyf was waiting to surprise me. Home sweet home.
 
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Epilogue

Very many highlights on this trip, and also a v big first (pun intended) – the A380 and the Singapore Airlines Suites. I was pleased and feel v lucky to have experienced a much-celebrated new kid on the block in the top service class. The hard product exceeded v many expectations of mine – though I’d still prefer something less enclosed, the Suites were v comfy for what they were all the same. OTOH, I felt that SQ could really pull its socks up with the food which I found decidedly average and unexciting. Some variety in the wine list would also be nice.

A first time visit to Scandinavia and Stockholm – never knew this part of the world is so trendy! An opinion concurred by an excited sms from another SQTalker a few weeks later. Guess I’ve found yet another part of the world on my ‘must return to’ list.

As always thank you to the unsung heroes I met along the way who helped make my journey that much more memorable: the great crew I had which made my flights that much more comfy, the not-so-good crew who gave me something to whinge about, the crew at the W Hong Kong – keep doing what you already do so well, and of course the great company I was blessed with:

UMD, milehighj and Kyo – thanks for that fabulous (and v carnivorous) meal in Singapore. Thanks also to UMD for a great night out at New Asia Bar, and Kyo for letting me crash at his place for an overnight.

Pieter C and Pieter C +1 for making the schlep to Amsterdam from Rotterdam. Thanks for the amazing dinner at Le Zinc!

Guy Betsy and friend for a lovely afternoon in Hong Kong, with yet more interesting industry tales to share. I’m sorry I missed you both at the airport the following day but there’s always next time.

CPWingWalker for coming out to dinner in Hong Kong and as always, a most interesting exchange of opinions.

THE END

Coming up next week: Qantas/BA: These Are My Favourite Things (QF A380 J, BA 777 J, QF 744 F)
 
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Now that the TR is over, can I firstly say a fine TR and a very, very, very fine trip that was described! Somewhat envious about SQ R - but hopefully with Amex soon coughing up my bonus points I hope perhaps one day I can find an F award on QF A380......

Maybe it's just the pictures and/or just not being there, but why do I get the feeling that even SQ F food seems somewhat pedestrian in a way. I mean, it's certainly better than any Y food out there...........

I for one would like to see you estimate both the total volume and approximate cost of (a) all alcohol, and (b) just champagne alone, consumed on all of your travels! Must be quite a bit.

The empty F cabins seem a rather oddity, don't they? Unless SQ are fairly restrictive on upgrades......

Aside: what does BTC stand for? (I can think of something that BTC stands for in Hokkien, but it's not nice...)


Anyway, well done. You've certainly taken the phrase "Travel is much more than just getting from A to B" to a new level.
 
BTC - Book The Cook service. Essentially a pre-order service for your onboard meal from a separate menu. You used to be able to BTC as a back up in case the onboard meals aren't to your liking, but now they evidently don't cater your share of the onboard menu if you'd BTC'd. You'd also no longer get seconds of caviar as exactly 1 jar per pax would be uploaded these days. FCL is about luxury of choice, sadly the bean counters don't see it that way.

I agree - I was rather underwhelmed by the food on SQ. I might have been spoilt by the extremely high standards of LH and QF FCL catering which I use as my benchmarks but heck, even Cathay does better food-wise in FCL and I don't even like them that much...
 
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Good stuff QF009 - finalyl time to read this :)

I will have to have another squiz when I am home so I can check out the images (blocked by employer webfilters)

S
 
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