Ticking a few European cities off the list (Zurich, Vienna, Prague, Paris)

[Milboo]

Our next destination was the famous Stephensdom Church.

The scale and workmanship is phenomenal and it is well worth visiting the roof to get the Vienna city views as well as seeing the tile roof up close. You can take the stairs or pay a nominal amount for the lift. We timed it right around sunset time (by chance).

It was an easy walk back to the hotel via Grabenstrasse. Aching feet and the cold had us eating at the hotel that night.

 

[RTWtraveler]

Zurich is one of our favourite cities, we stop there 2-3 times a year. You did not mention any of the fantastic museums Zurich offers, the Landsmuseum, near the Bahnhof will take a lot of time to explore. Then there is a cruse of the lake.

 

[Milboo]

The next day we opted to do the hop on hop off bus thing - primarily to rest the feet and also because I was unwell, having picked up a cold previously which was not improving. There was a stop nearby at the Votive Church so an easy walk there from the Hilton.

Bus went to a number of sites like over the Danube, UNO City, Belvedere, Schronbrunn Palace etc. Had intended visiting the Palace but it was a bit later in the day by the time we got there and big crowds (it was the weekend).




Some great street art when we took to the streets to find some lunch, mistakenly heading in the wrong direction from the Naschhmarkt



Summer Palace



Military Museum. Great display of fighter planes there too

 

[Milboo]

We finished the circuit back near the Hofsburg Palace and headed back there as it had been very drizzly on first time through. Visited the Treasury (photos next post) seeing family treasures and historic clothing. It blows your mind to comprehend walking through a doorway in the Palace that was built in 1554 and seeing crowns from 930.

Afterwards, temperature had dropped a fair bit so headed for a hot apple cider with amaretto and while in the little market outside the Palace we heard singing and then spent 30 mins listening to an A Cappella group perform under the dome in the Palace (at entrance to Riding School), taking advantage of the amazing acoustics.

 

[Milboo]

The historic original entrance



Crown of the Austrian Empire



The Crib of Napoleon II



Emerald Vessel - world’s largest emerald



Crown of the Holy Roman Empire from late 10th/ early 11th century

 

[Milboo]

Outside the Albertine, the owners of Augustinekeller have a Wiener Stand called Bitzinger and it’s probably the most famous of the stands in Vienna so we headed here for an easy dinner. I opted for one with cheese in it and with mustard and sauce it was so good! I’d go back in a heartbeat just for that!

Afterwards we walked past the Hotel Sacher and in the absence of queues headed in for the legendary Sacher Torte and a coffee before catching the tram back around to the hotel.

 

[Milboo]

The following day we caught the train from Vienna's main station to Prague.

Station was easy to navigate even with luggage and train was punctual.

We had booked Business Class as it was not much more expensive. We had comfortable armchair type seats and service. We had an attendant come around and take a drinks order and provide a snack shortly after departure and then at the Czech border they swapped train crew and they came around with water.

Train had wifi and the food in the restaurant car was adequate for the 4 hour journey but definitely worth getting something in one of the places in the train station (including a small supermarket).




It’s next to impossible to get photos from a fast moving train! But a couple from the Czech side of the border.

It was a scenic trip and I spent the 4 hours mostly looking out the window.

 

[Milboo]

Having read about the issues catching taxis from the train station, we had organised a car through the hotel except we never got the notification where to meet so wandered around the train station for some time. We found a driver but he was not ours - but he had lost his passengers so he said he'd take us, but then his pax showed up. They kindly offered to let us share as our hotels were near each other so crisis averted!

We stayed at the Hilton Prague Old Town. It was good but a step down from Vienna. No upgrade available and the hotel was busy due to a conference but they did move us the next day to a renovated room on the executive floor after I complained about noisy air con and housekeeping cupboard next door.

Executive lounge was adequate in terms of facilities but excellent in terms of service from the host. One in particular came around and asked if we wanted information on what to do etc and explained the transport options etc

Hotel restaurant was okay. We ate in the first night as it was around 7pm when we arrived. Had potential and a great sounding menu but didn't quite execute. Breakfast was a decent spread but nothing special.

 

[Milboo]

For our first day in Prague we took the number 15 tram from outside the hotel around to the Lesser Town (Ujezd stop), getting off for the furnicular up to Petrin Hill (noting this is covered in your tram day pass - get these down in the metro too). Visiting Petrin Hill, going up the observation tower before walking down to the Monastery for lunch in the cellar and exploring around the area. Made an error and did not go into the Library - later googled it and missed an amazing painted ceiling.

 

[Milboo]

The Library (photo from Internet)

 

[Milboo]

We could not find the Number 22 tram so decided to walk down the hill following Uroz and Nerudova streets, passing Prague Castle. It was a long steep walk! The following day we regretted our decision not to stop in at Prague Castle then! We followed the general flow of people and ended up at the Charles Bridge. From here we walked back through the Old Town, stopping at the Astrological Clock and square to see the Markets before finally getting back to the hotel. It was a lot of walking on cobblestones!

 

[Milboo]

 

[Milboo]

We had spotted a restaurant around the corner from the hotel called La Bottega Linka and headed there for dinner but alas - full and an hour wait so off we went and across the road with Cafe Imperial. We actually had a booking there for the following night but took the chance to get a table and managed to nab the last one immediately.

Such an amazing interior with the ceramics, mosaics etc. Meal was fantastic - I had a traditional Czech dish of braised beef in a creamy sauce with cranberries and bread dumpling and followed it with one of their famous ice cream sundaes, adding in cherry sorbet. Highly recommend a meal here - for the wow factor of the room but also good food and fantastic service.

 

[Milboo]

The next day we headed to Prague Castle - knowing how we needed to get there. Except the stop on the tram was not there! So we went for a little tram ride around Prague and it's outer suburbs! We ended up at the end of the line god knows where, so hopped on a train back to the main railway station and went back to where we started. Then found out that the Prague Castle stops were not operating that week - something you'd think they'd put on the tram stop for the tourists!

So instead we had a long long long long long walk up many many stairs! It was not easy going, especially being unwell. We had a wander around there but other than the church, didn't go into any of the buildings as we were both just a bit over the day! At least I have a reason to go back!

 

[Milboo]

Yet another market outside so we had some carbonara gnocchi and a hot wine

 

[Milboo]

I think a little bit in me broke when I realised that there was another lengthy set of stairs to go down to exit! At least these were a much more gradual incline! With the benefit of hindsight, getting the No.15 tram to the bottom entry and going up those stairs would have been a lot easier!

After a recharge back at the hotel, we headed around to La Bottega Linka and were rewarded for our persistence! I was craving a steak so had a piece of fillet (sold by weight) with a truffle sauce (super delicate), a dreamy creamy mash and a garden salad. Hands down one of the best steaks I’ve had and the mash. Oh the mash. And with that sauce! One of those meals that is not spectacular in concept but is so well executed and full of flavour. Now I am drooling remembering it...

 

[Milboo]

The next day was our last full day in Prague and unfortunately I woke up feeling pretty rough and to the point it necessitated a doctor visit to the hotel - and then getting to experience Czech prescriptions. No printed labels with name and instructions here - just the box with handwritten instructions like 0-0-1/2 meaning only to take 1/2 a tablet at night. Or with the antibiotics - he could not read the doctor’s writing so I just got the box! The approach did surprise me as one script was a decent strength codeine.

By this stage I was a little worried - was 24 hours off a flight to Zurich and less than 2 days off my flights back to Australia. But I had a sinus infection and bronchitis

But I was determined not to lose any more of the trip to a hotel room (lost 1/2 a day in Vienna) so rugged up - had broken out the silk thermals (top and bottom) in Prague, especially when it did snow overnight but didn’t settle.

We headed to the Old Town for a good look around.




Plenty of old classic cars around offering tours - relatively well priced and we nearly did one.



This is the Church of Our Lady before Tyn which dates from the 14th Century and is tucked in behind other buildings in the Old Square. Sadly it was closed for urgent repair on a pipe this day and no photos allowed but I snuck this one through the doors. Somewhat sad not to see inside as it looked amazing in all its gothic glory.



Church of Our Lady of Tyn across the square

 

[Milboo]

Having done some research as to where to find good pork knee/ knuckle, we headed to Mlejnice in the Old Town. No tables at the original so we wandered across the main square and found their second location and got a table without a hitch. The pork knee was worthy of its reputation! Tender, crisp edges, full of flavour. Even between 2 of us we could not finish it and the sides.

Left my friend at a Dali exhibition in late afternoon and went back to the hotel to sleep as I had to concede defeat. However we did go out later in the evening and had a chimney cake with hot apple from the Xmas market near the hotel.

 

[Milboo]

The following day we used the hotel car for the transfer to the airport. Were flying Swiss Air back to Zurich and had checked in online. Very easy process to drop bags except we did spot a last minute seat change which we got quickly rectified. Security queues were not too slow, airport easy to navigate and parked up at the gate for about 20mins before boarding (life without lounge access!).

A snow front had gone through Zurich the day before (sorry of our trip - just missing the snow!) so it made for a spectacular flight, especially as we had to circle over the Black Forest to slow down.

Otherwise flight on Swiss was non eventful - good service, comfortable seats (I scored a shadow) etc.

 

[JohnM]

Brings back memories - but I think I'll stick with warm-season/long day visits to those places.