Titanium toes attempts to trek the Inca Trail plus some travels either side

[bPeteb]

Carlos took us to a restaurant called Pacha Papa for dinner.



bigal (on the left) looking forward to sampling the lamb shoulder



We started with a fruit drink that was recommended to help us with the altitude.



Dinner was so so. I started with some absolutely horrible giant corn. Luckily the cheese that came with it was delicious. Al chose much better and his stuffed capsicums were delicious.



We both had the lamb shoulder. It was a bit dry to be honest but it was ok. Much better were our pisco sours!

It was pretty darn cold on the walk back to the hotel, close to zero. No heating in the room but when we pulled the blankets back to get into bed there were two hot water bottles hiding in there, dressed up as lambs.

 

[bPeteb]

The hotel restaurant has an amazing view over Cusco and it was a spectacular clear morning.



Breakfast was pretty good. Thinking back I wonder why eggs were so important for everyone. We only have them once a week. Nevertheless, they were available, and kind of cooked to order, and everyone was happy.

The buses/vans so far had all been good but Intrepid moved it up a notch and for our little group we had a half-sized coach for the trip down into the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo. It was super comfortable. On the way we stopped at a couple of viewing points. One gave us a panoramic view of the amazing Andes.



Not long after that we turned off the main road for our visit to Qoqor village. Intrepid makes a point of supporting local communities. Qoqor is a community of farmers and weavers who have formed the Tiki Weavers Association.





We all got dressed up in local clothes and helped them pull really tiny potatoes.

BigAl doing the Qoqor thing

 

[bPeteb]

For our very small efforts we were rewarded with a huge lunch.





Apparently everything was delicious but my appetite had disappeared overnight. I tried a small amount of few things but nothing really did it for me.

My appetite didn’t return until we arrived back in Lima. Maybe I need to move to Cusco. I'll be 80kg within weeks!

 

[bPeteb]

Back on the road and we stopped at a lookout that looked down into the Sacred Valley.





We had a view down across Urabamba and along the Sacred Valley but I wasn’t much interested. I had a cracker of a headache, caused by being out in the sun at the village without wearing a hat. I wanted to crawl into a hole.

Initial glimpse of the hotel in Ollantaytambo showed it to be another good hotel.



All I wanted was Panadol, and Nurofen, and water and a dark room. Al went off with some of the gang to explore the town and I hid in the dark. At one point I was woken up by a strange noise outside the window and there was a llama/alpaca stood in the garden outside the window staring straight at me. Bizarre!

 

[bPeteb]

I’m really sorry I wasn’t able to explore as Ollantaytambo is surrounded with amazing Inca ruins.





Al did a quicky tour around the twon with a few of the group.







We’ve since watched a show that walked us through the food stores up above the town. Next time.

I was kind of ok by dinner time so I joined everyone in town for a meal. Again, no appetite, so I just had a small meal even though the following day was day one of our Inca Trek. Stocked up on snacks on the way back to the hotel. Chocolates fixes everything. Milo bars everything x 2

 

[bPeteb]

We pulled back the curtains to reveal a spectacular clear day.



In the distance some snow-capped peaks. What an amazing day to start our Inca Trek. I hoped the weather forecast that I’d read for the next four days might prove wrong - sunny and warm for day one but day two and three looking like rain. Completely unseasonal of course. At least day four and our arrival at Machu Picchu was only showing cloudy.

We hired sleeping bags and walking poles. The sleeping bags were included in the six kgs that our duffles could weigh. Those other four kgs were clothes, minimal toiletries, a pair of thongs and whatever else you could fit in to last three nights and four days.



I was sh&# scared. What on earth had I got myself into? It was too late to change my mind.

The bus drives you to km 82, the starting point of Camino Inka.



Permit in hand, we were off

 

[bPeteb]

A bit of Inca info that will have been written here previously no doubt.

When we arrived at KM82 there were hundreds of other walkers there already. This was our biggest concern with walking the Inca compared to the Quarry Trail – the crowds. 500 people start the trail every day. 200 walkers and 300 support people – guides, porters and cooks. I pictured an endless line of people snaking off into the distance.

That’s not how it works though. Each group leaves at a set time. The average pace of groups has been worked out over a very long time. Fast walkers might catch up to the slow walkers of the group in front. Slow walkers might get overtaken by the fast walkers of the group behind. You’ll arrive at a rest stop as the group in front is leaving. It’s all super organised and not at any time did it seem crowded.

We got our passes stamped at the first check point and we were away.



Day one is about 12km. I was in shorts and a t-shirt and within 15 minutes was sweating like a pig. Gee it was hot. Not at all what any of us expected. But it was an easy walk.





Five kilometres in and we reached Llaqtapapa. Sadly we only got to see it from above but boy, what a sight and what a site!





The Incas were amazing.

 

[bPeteb]

A few more pictures of the ruins above Llaqtapapa

 

[bPeteb]

Included with an Intrepid trek is a tent and air matress, a guide and an assitant guide, and meals three times a day, snacks and water. Meals are served in a large tent and even though we knew about this it was a surprise to arrive at the lunch stop to find the lunch set-up – tent with a long table and stools.



We were served three courses and drinks, cold and hot, including coca tea. My tiny appetite and lack of interest in food in general makes me a poor judge of the food that was served during the trek. Everyone else’s comments were very positive.

Some more amazing scenery





Steps were my enemy. On day one I was ok but I still struggled with my breath.



Elias our guide was very good at keeping everyone motivated. In answer to the question “How much further to…” his standard reply was to point to somewhere in the distance and say “Just around the corner from there” or “Just past there”. Pretty quickly we realised that could mean “Just past there” could mean just past there or it could mean another 30 minutes past there.

"Just around the corner" applied to the grove of trees in the distance. The camp was another 30 minutes past them.

 

[bPeteb]

We arrived into camp mid-pack, seven and eighth out of the group. The camp was fantastic. In a valley surrounded by towering peaks. All of our tents set up, air mattresses down.



In addition to the dining and kitchen tent were two toilet tents. Lots of other groups around us but each in our own little ‘field’. Soon after we arrived we were each given a hot bowl of water. I chose to soak my feet in both of our bowls, sorry bigal.



Others used it to wash. Amazingly my ‘new’ big toes had not given me a problem at any time during the day.

There was a big introduction session where the trekkers all introduced ourselves and say what we did. Then our support group did the same.

All of these guys for 16 people!



The happy trekkers and our amazing support team.



Considering that everything was being carried in giant packs on the porters and cooks backs, dinner was pretty amazing. Just like lunch, three courses with hot and cold drinks. Again, I ate very little.

We were pooped and it was only day one but 10+km at high altitude takes it out of you.

As soon as we finished dinner we used the green toilet (the fence), dived into our sleeping bags and went to visit the Incan sleep deities.

 

[amaroo]

Simply awesome to view the "behind the scene" and scenery of the mighty Inca trekkers! Thanks for posting!

 

[bPeteb]

Although we’d been given instructions on what time our duffle needed to be packed and our tent empty somehow we managed to find ourselves the last ones ready.



Breakfast was just like dinner, three courses. I’m not sure exactly what was offered but over the three mornings there was fruit, toast, porridge, omelettes, pancakes, and who knows what else. Substantial is an apt description for breakfast.

Day two was ‘only’ eight and a bit kilometres. Unfortunately unlike day one that was gentle rises and small staircases that I was ok with, day two included the climb to Abra Warmiwanusqa also known a Dead Woman’s Pass. At 4215 metres it’s the highest point on the trail. It’s reached by walking up 1200 metres (vertically) OF HELL. After observing us all the day before, Elias told me it would take me six hours to get to the pass.

I was struggling as soon as I left the camp.





Yes, I should be 10kg lighter. Yes, if I hadn’t have my feet operated on I could have exercised more. Saying that, if I hadn’t have had my feet operated on I wouldn’t have been walking the trail at all. I don't know that either of those things would have helped my shortness of breath. A soon as I started going up steps I was out of breath.

Every step was an effort. Most of the group pulled away from us as Al coaxed me up the endless steps. “Just count five and have a rest.” “Take deeper breathes.” “Remember to have a drink.” At least he had a leisurely stroll for four days!

As I crept slowly up towards the pass people from other groups starting passing us. We were told that one of our group was quite ill and had received oxygen. She had struggled the first day and this second climb was too much. The assistant guide had determined that she couldn't go on so with her husband they turned back. The only thing with turning back is you have no option but to walk back out (unless you hire a horse!).
out.

We caught up to the group at the first rest stop just as they were leaving.



More steps

 

[bPeteb]

With Elvis taking our unwell trekker back to Ollantyatambo, Elias our guide had to drop back to keep an eye on me.

And that’s what he did. Al and he continued to push me on. “See that big flat rock there? Aim for that.” “Look up there. That’s the top.” I knew I could see people, but they were like ants.

Al had asked if he could carry my bag but I refused. It was hard enough for him just trying to keep me going without him also carrying an extra pack and the two litres of water in it.

Eventually I just stopped. I knew the pass was “just up there”, I could see the bloody thing, but my lungs had had enough. Elias asked for my pack. I said no to him as well. I told him that if I gave it to him I was surrendering. He just said stop being a hero and hand it over. And I did. That was all that I needed. I sure didn’t run to the top but instead of five steps and stopping I was managing 10 before I needed to have a sip of water and a short rest.

Then after six of the most difficult hours of my life, taking exactly the amount of time our guide had told me it would take me, we arrived at the pass.

Six kilometres and 12 metres below us was our camp.



Snow all around us. The following day the pass was closed due to heavy snow.



4215 metres! 13,800 feet!





Best of all for my addled headspace was that some of our group was still there and they'd only got there five minutes before me. Rain started to fall as we headed down towards our next camp site but I didn't care as we were heading downhill!

 

[bPeteb]

Over the next hour or so the rain got heavier and eventully turned into pellet sized hail. Amazingly all but one of our group stayed upright on the slippery path and steps. They escaped with a bruised face and a grazed hand.

We were soaked when we got to camp. Gloves, the arms of our jackets as ponchos don't have long sleeves. Surprisingly the spray on waterproofing that I bought at DJs worked a treat. As soon as we sat down in our tent two bowls of steaming water were left outside.

It even stopped raining for a while.



The views continued to amaze



Looking back up towards Abra Warmiwanusqa



It was only mid-afternoon but I was so shattered I rolled my sleeping bag out and went to sleep. Al woke me for dinner. I was tempted not to go but was glad I did as the group was super supportive and made me realise that I'd actually achieved something pretty cool.

 

[love_the_life]

I admire you. That climb was no mean feat and I know I wouldn't have been able to do it, even with my two original big toes.

 

[bPeteb]

I'll preface the next couple of posts with thanks to Sam, one of my fellow trekkers. She was prepared to get her phone out in the rain and took a whole lot more pictures than I did. Apologies in advance if the pictures don't go with the place mentioned.

It rained most of the night and was still raining as we the camp was pulled down.

Day three was the longest day – 16 kilometres and while not anywhere near as hard as day two, I struggled just as much.

Of course we started with a climb. Nearly an hour up to Runkurakay, an amazing circular construction that even in the rain provided amazing views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.



Our camp way down below



We continued up to the Runkurakay Pass that at 3950 metres, wasn’t far behind Dead Woman’s Pass.

We’d managed to stay within sight of some of the group but they pulled away between the Qomercocha lagoon and Sayaqmarka, the next ruin we reached





followed by Konchamarka. It was a day of amazing ruins, each as good as the last and each different to the last.

Llama/alpaca on the trail - Elias (a highlander) told us they were all alpacas in Peru and Llama in Bolivia. Carlos (also a highlander, a Cusco native) told me everything on the trail were llama.




We trudged in to the lunch camp, possibly at Chaquicocha, where the food was served as soon as we sat down. Evidently they’d been waiting. We were soaked and I was freezing but there was no way to get warm. After lunch the rain got a little less heavy but as far as I remember it never stopped. We passed through a very cool tunnel carved through a huge rock before we reached Phuyupatamarca, ‘the town above the clouds’. Of course it was in the bloody clouds for our visit!

 

[bPeteb]

Some more amazing Incan ruins and one of the path. The whole time I was walking I kept thinking of who else had been walking it six hundred years before.







The trail snaking down the hill on the right then turning towards the middle of the photo. Elias was stood at the bottom of the steps that led up to where I took this picture. He said to me "It's 100 steps up there. You don't have to go up."

I dropped my pack and poles and went straight up those steps!



Drowned rats

 

[love_the_life]

But justly self satisfied drowned rats

 

[RB]

A fantastic write-up and some great photos. Looking forward to reading the rest

 

[bPeteb]

Just after Phuyupatamarca we started down the killer of the day – 2000 plus steps of varying sizes and degrees of slipperiness. Us old guys had taken knee braces on the trip especially for this joy of joys. It was jarring, but it really wasn't that hard and we kept within sight of the group most of the way down. If everything had been downhill I would never have had any issue!!

'Decent pace' must be put into context. Porters jogged past us as though we were standing still. They'd done the same when we were going uphill. I also forgot to mention that it was Inca Trail marathon yesterday. Look it up. Unbelievable!

Eventually we arrived at Winay Wayna.

If it could have been fine at any of the first three days ruins we both wished that it could have been Winay Wayna. We emerged out of the cloud forest to be confronted with terraces disappearing into the mist above and below us. It was humungous. At one point we had to use one hand to hold onto the wall of the terraces as we gingerly made our way down a very narrow, steep, slippery staircase.

To that point it was my highlight of the trail, despite the rain and the a lack of visibility.

About five minutes later we walked into civilisation. It was bizarre walking out of a ruin and then a few hundred metres later past a concrete toilet block.

Winay Waya camp is huge. As well as the legit walkers 'pretenders' can walk up from Aguas Calientes and spend a night so that they can walk the last few kilometres to the Sun gate and then down to Machu Picchu.

As we walked in to camp the rain was down to drizzle but geez it was cold. Warmed up my hands and face with the onbligatory bowl of steaming water then had another afternoon kip. At the start of the trek you are given a plastic bag to keep you clothes dry inside the duffle. We'd managed to keep a whole 'outfit' dry so that at least we'd start our last day dry (that outfit was dry socks, jocks and a light jumper). Everything else was soaked and/or had been worn a couple of times.

Everything wet was tuffednto the duffles. We all joked at dinner that they all would have weighed far more than the 6kg limit when they got taken down to Aguas Calientes at 5.30 the next morning.

Afternoon tea of popcorn, sweet biscuits and jam, served every afternoon at 5 or 5.30pm



The clearing rain was short lived and it returned with a vengeance while we were sat having dinner. The porters and cooks all came in after dinner and we distributed the tips. Luckily the amounts had been provided to us by Carlos. This can be a big issue when you travel in groups and people disagree with tiping. Everyone on our tour was onboard with group tipping, both here on the trail and the rest of the trip as well.

Elias gave us some good news about the next morning - because we'd been so quick at getting up and packing we would be getting an extra 30 minutes of sleep-in. 03:45 wake up for a 4:15 departure instead of 03:15. Great news indeed.

It was fine again as we zipped up the tent then the heavens opened.