rbjhan
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Ok so it turns out reporting on a trip while being on set trip is harder than I thought!
Ha I tried that last time and quickly gave up
You are doing much better than me!
Ok so it turns out reporting on a trip while being on set trip is harder than I thought!
Same for me. Tried it several times but it just didn't work.Ha I tried that last time and quickly gave up
You are doing much better than me!
Yeah in hindsight i should have booked an extra night so I could just walk into the room and have a shower. These super early arrivals from the middle east make it challenging on day one.We stayed at the Mercure next door a few days later (stayed there previously about 10yrs ago).
The rate over 4 nights varied from €99 to €213 pn (€641 for 4x nights). But the room was big, with free mini bar and most importantly - they had a room available for our early checkin!
We caught the U Bahn in from the airport also but didn’t know about the local 24 hr add-on! I realised later….
Well I should log that into travel mistakes - I had no idea there were lounges and I had a first class ticket for three weeks earlier this yearDetour to Salzburg on my way to Zurich
ÖBB Railjet train (RJX69) train from Munich to Salzburg
arteHotel Salzburg
Exploring Salzburg
ÖBB Railjet train (RJX364) Train from Salzburg to Zurich
As mentioned in one of my previous instalments as part of some seasonal schedule changes for my Etihad flights I got an extra day in europe, I could have just added an extra day in Munich but seeing as Salzburg is just around the corner and the annual Krampus run was scheduled for the week I was in the region I thought I'd make a little detour on my way to Switzerland.
The train journey between Munich and Salzburg is 1.5 hours and is operated predominantly by the Austrian Railway company ÖBB however the services can also be booked through the German railway (Deutsche Bahn or DB for short) which is what I did as it was cheaper for some reason.
What and how I paid (Munich to Salzburg)
I paid 17 euro for my second class ticket through the Deutsche Bahn website when I booked my tickets about 2 months out, for comparison ÖBB at the time were charging 54 euro for the same journey in second class and they still are. I don't know why there is such a difference in price but a three times up-charge for the same product feels like a rip off to me.
Now importantly this ticket only buys you the right to be on the train, if you want to be guaranteed a seat you have to separately book a seat for a further 3 euro (this you can only do through the ÖBB website for this service). I highly recommend booking a seat as my train which departed at 11:30am was completely full.
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The ÖBB website also lets you be very specific with which seat you want aka forward facing window in the first car etc and the ticket will list the seat name and car number so you know where to board the train. Just make sure to tick the "Seat reservation only" box if you already purchased a seperate ticket.
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The Austrian trains depart from platforms 1-7 at Munich Main Train Station which is on the ground floor. Our train arrived 30 minutes prior to departure and I'm glad I got on early so all my luggage was sorted in the dedicated areas which while not massive are far better than other trains I travelled on this trip.
The train is very uneventful and much like a normal commuter train, seats had EU power points and a tray table in the seat in front of them, the train was on time and the views were nice as we headed for Austria. The below picture from the ÖBB website gives you a good idea as to what seats look like.
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Once arriving in Salzburg the train remains there for 5 or so minute before heading to Vienna and finally Budapest.
arte Hotel Salzburg
Medium level double room
As I was lugging my luggage around and only staying a night before catching a train again I was really keen to stay very close by the train station in Salzburg. Luckily there are a couple options and the best value for money and most attractive offer was the arte Hotel in Salzburg which is a 3 minute flat walk down the main road that follows the train station.
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The hotel is very modern and a tall tower with which you can have nice views (if you pay for them), I was on the middle hight of the tower on the side with a less hot view but i didn't mind as the sun sets so early in winter that I didn't really have an opportunity to appreciate it if it were there.
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Upon checking in I was advised that the hotel sold the Salzburg card which is essentially a tourist card which gives you free access to public transport in the city and a large number of attractions and museums including the funicular heading up to the castle in Salzburg. The card can be bought in 24, 48 and 72 hour periods and a 24 hour card cost me 24 euro's which you had to pay in cash.
Activities in Salzburg
Salzburg is home to many sites to see with loads of people checking out sound of music related sites, other highlights include Fortress Hohensalzburg which sits above the city and can be hiked to or accessed by a quick funicular ride as well as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozarts birthplace and museum. I of course was here for the Christmas Markets and the famous Krampus run which is a traditional Austrian procession that tells the story of a folklore tale about Krampus, an anthropomorphic creature (half-goat, half-demon) who punishes children who have misbehaved throughout the year.
Krampuses from all over come to Salzburg to show off their masks/costumes several times through out the christmas season which is a fun/slightly scary spectacle.
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If you happen to be in Salzburg for a Krampus run I absolutely encourage you to hang out until you hear the sound of bells approach and witness the Krampus, however the old town is also a lovely place to be on all other nights in the season with the Christkindl market in the old town having a great mix of food, handy craft and region specific things to enjoy.
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The following morning I was up early to catch my next train to Switzerland.
Salzburg to Zurich
ÖBB RJX368
First Class
This train runs once a day from Vienna via Salzburg to Zurich with many other stops in between. The train departs Salzburg just before 8am and is scheduled to reach Zurich just after 1pm.
This second train trip I did book through the ÖBB website and paid 36 euros plus 3 more euros for seat reservation for a first class ticket. This trip was about 5 hours long so I was keen to get a bit more legroom and a slightly wider seat for the journey.
The difference between second and first class is that second class is in a 2-2 payout and first is in a 1-2 layout with more legroom and seats that recline. There is also a more premium business first product which is more like a compartment type set up which makes sense to me if theres a few of you traveling and you want a more private space.
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For first class passengers ÖBB operates lounges at a number of large train stations including in Salzburg. So I headed there in the hopes to grab a coffee and wait for my train in a warm spot. To my surprise I was all alone in the lounge which I'm going to put down to the train not originating in Salzburg and the fact that ÖBB did not advertise this as a privilege to me when buying the ticket, I just randomly found out about this when reading another trip report.
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The Lounge which is unassuming and located in the underground walk through between the escalators of track 2&3 and 4&5. The lounge is large enough and features a small buffet with snacks and drinks and importantly a coffee machine. There were also restrooms and a large boardroom which I guess one can book ahead of time potentially.
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About 10 minutes prior to my trains scheduled departure time I headed up to the platform. For this journey I picked a single seat next to the luggage compartment for my trip facing backwards for the first 2/3 of the trip before the train drives in the opposite direction for the remainder of the trip.
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As you can see the seat is a large ish leather recliner with plenty of legroom and also features a foot rest. This train has a restaurant car and in first class an attendant roams the cars to take drink and food orders and deliver orders to your seat however it has to be said these amenities come at an additional cost. I purchased provisions at the station in the form of a sandwich so didn't end up ordering anything on the train but the menu listed several hot meals which rotate regularly if you didnt buy anything before hand.
The journey was very smooth and I was glued to the window as we slowly traversed mountains and headed into the snow. We were delayed at the swiss border due to a technical fault which meant we arrived about an hour late in Zurich. Its also worthwhile mentioning that on this train the Wifi didn't seem to work for me but I had a few shows downloaded so I managed to entertain my self that way.
All in all I can't say anything negative about this experience and recommend you try out this slightly longer route to Switzerland if time allows. Salzburg is a very pretty city and its compact size makes it great to explore in a day or two before heading onto the next part of the adventure.
I'd label that as travel missed opportunity not a mistake. I think the mistake is on ÖBB for not communicating to its passengers that these amenities exists.Well I should log that into travel mistakes - I had no idea there were lounges and I had a first class ticket for three weeks earlier this year
This is a great and interesting TR , thanks for making the effort to do this.Day trip ideas in Switzerland via Rail, Bus, Tram and Gondola
For context I purchased the 15 consecutive day Swiss Travel Pass in second class for 459 CHF and below are some of the trips I did and how much they would have been if you had purchased them as a single ticket or a day pass.
Säntis mountain gondola and Appenzell
The first day trip I undertook was to the eastern rural mountain region of Appenzell most famous for its cheese and looking like its straight out of an episode of Heidi. There I rode a gondola to the peak of the Santis Mountain followed by a trip to the pictures town of Appenzell.
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This trip included taking four trains, a gondola (return) and a bus (return) and would have cost 129 CHF if you paid for the point to point ticket on the day. As I had the swiss travel pass all I had to pay was 50% of the return gondola ride as the pass didn't fully cover this, so that cost me 29 CHF. Alternatively the day pass would have cost 52 franks plus the 29 franks for the gondola ride.
The Journey each way takes about 2 hours and you take in some of the most scenic parts of the country at a very leisurely pace with many coffee breaks in between.
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On a good day the views from the Säntis are stunning, we sadly didn't have a good day (aka all we saw was a white wall of nothing) but the restaurant at the peak was enjoyable never the less and the town of Appenzell is a lovely view into what life was like in a rural part of Switzerland. Here you can also do some local shopping including regional cheese, local "Biber" which is a type of gingerbread and a variety of cured meats.
Schloss Laufen, Rhine Fall and Schaffhausen
A another great day trip from Zurich is to the Renaissance era city of Schaffhausen and the most powerful waterfalls in Europe, the Rhine Falls both are easily accessible by train in a single day trip.
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By hopping onto the S12 or S24 to Schaffhausen (important as there is also an S12 heading to a different city) from Zurich or the S33 to Schaffhausen from Winterthur you will travel north through Zurich's wine country before reaching Schloss Laufen am Rhine. This castle which is almost 1200 years old, over looks the Rhine falls and is a great place to grab lunch with a view. Here you can also head to a viewing platform to get a closer view of the waterfall but I'd only recommend this in summer as the water is very cold in winter. I'd also say this is where you will find one of the best elevator views in Switzerland.
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After lunch I'd highly recommend continuing on with the same trains to Schaffhausen. Schloss Laufen is the last stop in the Canton of Zurich and from here trains continue to the canton and city of Schaffhausen crossing the River Rhine where you once again get a great view of the river.
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Schaffhausen is unique in Switzerland as one of the few swiss towns or cities located on the northern side of the river Rhine which constitutes as the border between Germany and Switzerland for most of the northern length of Switzerland. The old city is famous for its quality renaissance buildings and frescos as well as the Munot fortress from the 16th century.
A return journey from the city of Winterthur where I was staying would have cost 35 CHF or 48 CHF from Zurich main train station as you can see this would have been cheaper than a day pass of 52 CHF.
Basel Stadt
Basel is famous for its Christmas Markets and is also a very beautiful city all year round and of course home to three countries borders between Switzerland, France and Germany.
Basel is another rare city that spills into the northern side of the Rhine, its home to 40 museums making it the cultural epicentre of Switzerland. I'd really recommend you check out the Tinguely museum, home of kinetic art and sculptures of swiss artist Jean Tinguely. His sculptures can also be found all over Switzerland especially in Basel.
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Other notable sights include the 1000 year old Basel Cathedral which also hosts a Christmas market and stunning views over the river Rhine and the Townhall building painted a bright red adorned with great detailed art and sculptures.
The city is fairly compact and well connected by trams so its easy to get to its variety of markets. In Switzerland, markets focus more on food as well as local swiss businesses you do however still find the same stalls as you find all over europe.
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From Zurich, Basel is a quick hour train ride away, from Basel you can also catch a train to Strasbourg and Colmar in France's Alsace region which is also famous for its Christmas markets.
From the city I was staying in a same day return ticket would have cost 90 CHF, as you can see this would have been a day a day pass would have been more economical.
In conclusion
These are just three trip ideas, of course theres much more to see and I'll cover Montreux and Geneva off in a seperate post as well as my day trip to Strasbourg and Colmar. I hope you can see how much ticket prices vary and how depending on what you want to do/see different ticket options present better or worse value.
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