Chapter 4 : New England
Sunday 7th October
Today was a free day in Boston to do as we pleased. Well, what pleased us was a decadent sleep-in, a lot of walking (about 18km, so says my pedometer), some delicious food and drink, and a quiet night in.
We were staying in the beautiful suburb of Beacon Hill, characterised by its architecture, cobblestone streets and expensive real estate. We wandered up the infamous Acorn Street and I feel instantly in love - it reminded me so much of England and I was instantly homesick.
We took photos of dozens of houses all beautifully decorated for fall with their stunning pumpkins and wheat sheafs, and some with Halloween decorations. We wandered the city, popping into stores and bars as we saw fit. We wandered Boston Common and played with the squirrels and fed the ducks. We had a burger at Shake Shack and I was very unimpressed, not quite sure why so many people rave. We walked down Newbury Street (I used to live in Newbury in UK so that was fun - so many place names were familiar to me!) and were both very impressed by all the churches on the street flying pride flags and urging people to "Vote yes for 3". We looked it up because it was clear it was something to do with the LGBT+ community so we wanted to find out.. it was a Massachusetts referendum to enact an anti-discrimination statute supporting transgender rights. How amazing that traditionally conservative MA was leading the way on such important rights cases, but moreso that every church we passed were supportive of it. So heartwarming to see, and we were ecstatic to read just last week, that it passed with a 68% yes vote! Woot, way to be progressive, MA!!
We wandered down to the harbour and walked the waterfront, visited the Boston Tea Party ships & museum, then headed down to Faneuil Hall to wander the markets for an hour or so, buying delicious food and some souvenirs. Then we ended up in the Cheers Bar, drinking delicious coughtails (which we later got the recipe for and went and bought the ingredients we'd need to recreate them at home - including pumpkin pie vodka, and cinnamon liqueur). Headed back to the hotel for a quiet night and a good sleep, because our day would start early tomorrow.
I've finally worked out how to do photos on here, so here's some of today's snaps:
General fall pictures:
Acorn Street:
Boston Tea Party:
Monday 8th October
Today was a public holiday for Columbus Day, we didn't really see anything which was closed, or any particular celebrations. We gathered our bags and caught an Uber over to the parking garage, we thought they opened at 7am but sadly it wasn't until 8 so we had to wait a bit for them to open. I'd booked a hire car on Expedia a long time ago, I usually find it gives the best prices. We got a midsize SUV (a Nissan Rogue, which is what we call the XTrail) for $440AUD for 8 days, including insurance. A very good deal! We had to pay an additional driver fee, but it was only $20US I think so not much. We needed an SUV for all of our bags - a suitcase each, a carryon each, and being camera geeks we also had a camera bag and a tripod each... there was no way we could have put all that in an economy car
As I was driving, it was Mr Scubabe's job to do two things : find us interesting routes, and to say out loud to remind me every single time my indicator went on : "Long Left! Short Right!". And I think he felt like a bit of a numpty doing it the first few times, but I tell you what... we didn't have any mishaps with that system
It was just nice to have someone helping me to remember the only thing that was really different about driving on the wrong side. I work in telecoms so I have lots of devices at my disposal, so we brought a spare phone with us with nav apps and the whole of North America downloaded locally to the phone, so handy to have that so we didn't need to worry about mobile signal. It also had all the speed limits programmed in so there was always something I could check to see if I was speeding or not. Not that it really mattered, I think I was possibly the only driver in the whole of New England who was obeying the posted speed limits...
We drove north out of Massachusetts and into New Hampshire, and just as we were leaving MA there was a motorway electronic signpost which said "Traffic is wicked bad at exit 130" hahaha gotta love their lingo
We found a large Walmart and headed in. For those who've never been, Walmart is like a Coles and a KMart all under one roof. We bought a cooler, some water and soda, and lots of roadtrip-type snacks. Cheese, crackers, sandwich meats, fruit, vegetables, cream cheese for dipping them into (oh my gosh! They have like 40 different flavours of cream cheese!!!), nuts, and weirdly (but perfectly for me), a bag from the fridge section with pre-boiled and shelled eggs. Then with a cooler bag full of snacks we finally hit the road for our first day of road tripping.
So I think I wrote earlier that we're both foodies. We had planned one very special meal in each seperate week of our holiday, and today was our New England foodie treat. Mr Scubabe grew up in New Hampshire, and his family always used to visit
Pickity Place. It's the most divine spot, it's a really old cottage and they grow all of their fruits, vegetables and herbs onsite. They have three seatings a day, one set menu a month, your only choice is what flavour tea you'd like, and whether you'd like the meat or the vegetarian main. It's a 5-course plated lunch, unlimited non-alcoholic drinks (they don't have a liquor licence). We arrived early so we could take photos, wander the gardens and greenhouse, and buy some treats in the gift shop. We also arrived early so that I could give Mr Scubabe a special gift... see, this house, Pickity Place... it was used as the illustration for the 1948 Little Golden Books printing of Little Red Riding Hood... and unbeknownst to Mr Scubabe, I had managed to secure a copy of that edition for him. So I wandered the grounds until I found precisely the exact spot I wanted him to stand in when he opened it... and then I dragged him over there, kicking and screaming, and gave him a really sweet momento of this meal
Then it was time to go inside and oh my gosh! The food was absolutely to die for!!!
We started with warm spiced tea, and a spinach dip with homemade crackers.
Then we had autumn slaw with candied walnuts - like eating the fall harvest, but sweeter
Next up was a cranberry orange ciabatta with blueberry ginger butter - ohhhhhhhhh I can still taste that butter! It was accompanied by a creamy onion and pickled shallot soup. So delicious, I only wish I could make soups this tasty!
For our mains, I had the chicken francaise and Mr Scubabe had the fall vegetable timbale, both served with roasted cauliflower from the garden (we saw them picking it an hour earlier!).
We both finished with a huge slice of bourbon pecan pie with homemade apple icecream, and a mug of warm spiced mocha.
We rolled out of there with huge smiles on our faces... that was an amazing meal, and it truly lived up to all of the raving he'd done about it in the months leading up.
Now I am determined that we'll return to New Hampshire at least 11 more times... I want to try every month's menu!!
I left the navigation to our final destination for the night down to my co-pilot, we knew we wanted to drive Route 2 (Mohawk Drive) as it's well-known for being a fabulous leaf-peeper's route, and he was determined to get us to some off-the-beaten-track photo spots on the way. Off the beaten track is right... we ended up spending over an hour offroading in our hire car, it was so much fun, and we found some great photo spots enroute. Oh, and we almost ran over a skunk! I was so excited to see it, they're bigger than I thought they'd be. We eventually headed out of New Hampshire and back into Massachusetts, winding our way towards the Berkshires. It was getting late in the afternoon now, the weather was a bit pants, and the cloud was rolling in very low. We were hoping to get up to Mt Greylock this afternoon for some photos in Golden Hour, but with the weather it wasn't to be. It was about 7pm when we reached our destination and checked into our hotel for the night, Berkshire Hills Country Inn in Williamstown, room was huge and clean, the property as a whole was very pretty, and it included a huge breakfast buffet - and was only like $70USD for the night, great bargain. We had dinner in a local pub and fell into bed exhausted and happy.
... to be continued