Up the Amazon Without a Paddle.

drron · Dec 8, 2012

Next to the fort was evidence of the Brazilian security forces-

Then those black birds,thick in the sky so you just had to point your camera at the sky and voila a photo-

It was next back to the ship.We learnt the lessons of cruise line tours.$99 a head but at the wharf the same company had the same tour at $35.Later on we talked with those on the afternoon tour,a jungle walk.As I expected with 100 people walking down a jungle track the only wildlife seen were ants and a tarantula.We cancelled the rest of our tours.After lunch the tenders were hauled up and the ship made its way to the dock-

I decided to go and have a walk around by myself.We were docked at a cargo wharf but close to a renovated area with lots of restaurants,exhibits and even a microbrewery-

Lots of interesting buildings from the halycon days of the rubber boom over 100 years ago,this one turned out to be the police station-

Another church really demonstrated the lack of maintenance-

And I found the perfect hotel for Tony Hancock if ever he needs to do business in Belem-

drron · Dec 8, 2012

I then made it to the markets-

Everything was for sale even Brazil nuts-

I ended up in the restaurant section.Out the back the food was prepared.Chicken was certainly fresh-killed on the spot.I was about to take a photo of the execution when I felt a tap on the shoulder.It was a military policeman telling me something in Portugese.Had no clue but felt it was probably better to turn the camera off say thank you and leave.As I exited I met the black birds close up-

Yes vultures which were present in every town and city we visited.I didn't fancy the way they looked at me so decided to head back to the ship.Again some interesting buildings-

drron · Dec 8, 2012

On the way back there was this magnificent building-

Looked over by this guy-

To finish a few pics of when we were steaming into Belem-

Though this vessel had a name significant in QLD-

That night was another formal night.It was also the night of the Venetian Society reception(for repeat cruisers).80% of the pax were in the society.We then had dinner with Saskia,the Guest Relations Manager.There were 2 English couples and one from North Carolina.The evening started slowly but one of the Englishmen was a cricket tragic and had been to the World Cup in the West Indies and it turned out Sakia was there too on board one of the ships in Bridgetown that had a couple of the Aussie groups on board.We then got talking to the couple from North Carolina so ended up a great night.Mrsdrron got the biggest veal chop I had ever seen.Fortunately my gnocchi was a very small serve so I was able to help out.
Next-the Breve narrows.

kpc · Dec 8, 2012

I'm amazed at your efforts (and time) to do all these TRs drron

; keep it up!....I'm a bit lazy to do a TR covering my recent travels but if I did, I'll call it: "From Mosi-oa-Tunya to the City of the Incas via Rapa Nui"

drron · Dec 8, 2012

When we booked this cruise I had a short list of what I wanted to see.Seeing the animals and birds of the Amazon jungle was not on that list as we had spent a week in the jungle 5 years ago and had seen a lot then.I figured that a hundred or more people in the jungle would scare the wildlife so my aims where just 3.
First I just wanted to see how big the Amazon was.Next was to see the pink dolphins.Third was the meeting of the waters.
So now to the Breves Narrows-a series of smaller channels running south from the Amazon to Belem.We had left Belem at midnight.Awoke late and still in a wide river.Breakfast,a lecture on Brazil and got back to our suite just as we came to a large town that was Breves and the start of the narrows-

In every town is a large Catholic church.This was no exception-

Now the unexpected happened.The locals took to the water in all manner of small craft,many powered by longtails.The Cloud only comes through here once a year and not many cruise ships could handle the narrows.So we still instil wonder in the locals-

Of course the river is the main transport artery and every town saw a collection of ferries and commercial vessels-

Many were adorned with religious slogans.More to come.

drron · Dec 8, 2012

One of the sadder things about the day were the number of saw mills we saw.Most were not large concerns-

Back to the people next.

drron · Dec 8, 2012

This was a fantastic day.We stayed on the verandah the whole time.Even got room service for lunch-spring rolls and pizza with a bottle of sav blanc of course.We saw dolphins on 3 occasions-once grey dolphins,another the pink dolphins and the third time both swimming together.So the first of my wishes had occurred.
However the people are what made this day.Coming out on all sorts of craft even simple bamboo rafts and on a couple of occasions even swimming.Sometimes the family dog was brought along,many had young children.Really tugged at my heart strings but a day I will always remember and the cruise was worthwhile even if no other highlights.So here they are

drron · Dec 8, 2012

So now just a few picture of the river,housing etc-

Note that even though the houses are ramshackle they usually have satellite receivers.
More to come.

drron · Dec 8, 2012

Might seem like a lot of photos but I took about 300 in the day!

drron · Dec 8, 2012

A few more to come.

drron · Dec 8, 2012

So the last set of photos from the narrows.I hope I have conveyed what an absorbing day it was.

The barges-this one had 80 truck trailers on board-

and then an old fish trap-

Then the tsunami effect.As the ship went by the water was sucked from the banks and then the wave hit.

And signs of illegal logging-

Next the night and arriving in Santarem.

drron · Dec 10, 2012

At the conclusion of an absorbing day I went up on deck for the sunset.There was a lot of grey sky and smoke haze but that made for some wonderful colours-

We had dinnerWith 2 English couples.It appeared that there were more passengers from the UK than USA.Again a pleasant evening followed by a deep sleep.When we awoke we were in the Amazon and the scenery had changed-

As became usual there was a lot of smoke haze around the Amazon.As we approached Santarem we noticed this-

Yes a meeting of the waters-not the famous one at Manaus.At Santarem the clear waters of the Tapajos river.They also flow side by side for a considerable distance before mixing.In fact the meeting of the waters happen with many of the tributaries of the Amazon.
So today I have seen the breadth of the Amazon.It is a much mightier river than I ever imagined.I have seen a meeting of the waters and with the pink dolphin sighting yesterday I have acheived my aims for this cruise.The rest is a bonus to be enjoyed.
Next-Santarem.

drron · Dec 10, 2012

So we docked at Santarem.There any idea that this was a cruise of remote areas went when behind us was this-

The AIDAvita that can carry 1266 passengers.Caters for younger Germans but is part of the Carnival Group and comes under Costa cruises-I wonder if the pax know that.
Despite that there is wildlife right beside the ship-

Yes another pink dolphin.There were again both grey and pink dolphins who put a show on for about 30 minutes.This is the only time I had my camera pointed in the right direction.I deleted about 50 shots of Amazonian water.
The tour of Santarem was of the cultural highlights again so we passed.Unfortunately the dock was over a Km from the city centre which meant we really didn't want to leave the ship.So we had a nice lunch on the ship with our friends from Vermont and joined them again for dinner in Le Champagne.The 2 of us had the rack of lamb for mains.The complimentary red was disappointing so the Maitre'D brought us a bottle of an Italian Cab Sav-it really was a perfect match for the lamb.
Tomorrow we will be in Boca De Valeria.That next.

drron · Dec 11, 2012

Boca De Valeria is a collection of small villages where the Rio Valeria meets the Amazon.There is no paid tour today you just go ashore and do as little or as much as you want.There is a fair bit of discussion amongst the passengers whether this is a real village or just one where everyone comes in for the day a ship calls in.I thought it was a real village though probably some extra kids for the day.
So after breakfast we go ashore by tender.Even then there are canoes waiting-the theme for the day is a picture,a dollar.Couldn't resist this little fellow-

The sloth was a real character!Once on shore you are greeted by a whole lot of kids-

Most of whom know 3 words of English-money one buck.There were mainly children,some in traditional(?) dress holding sloths,birds,snakes,caiman,monkeys and the most distressing was a log covered with the hide and head of a jaguar-that I could not photograph as it should be discouraged.I had no hesitation giving out my dollar bills even though I got shouted at by a woman passenger who accused me of child exploitation.As 10 cruise ships per year go up the Amazon and some may not stop here I thought that was a pathetic argument especially as the woman still took photos but didn't pay.
Now there were some crafts for sale-

But most of the activity was the kids with the adults watching on-

So here are some of my exploititave photos-

This little girl had been ignored by most and was crying when I came back wanting to get out of her costume.She soon brightened up as I handed over my dollar.mum of course very quickly had it in her hand.And this next one was standing a little away from the crowd.After I took her picture she gave a little dance of joy as she ran to dad to give him the money-

More to come.

drron · Dec 11, 2012

The village certainly isn't up market-

I did open my wallet.I was in the room at the same time my accuser was and once again noted her tightness.
Again notice the satellite dishes-

At this next house you can see the fellow that lives there talking to a group of passengers.I paid up my dollar and went in side.He had many books-most were a pictorial on Amazon Owls signed by the author-apparently the fellow helped in some way and was paid with signed books.Didn't have the heart to tell him that people interested just in owls are in pretty short supply.

He was very proud of his new freezer and showed me it's contents,unfortuately 2 litre bottles of Coke,Sprite and orange Fanta.This was more of an argument for not giving the kids money as this is what it normally buys.The next place I thought would be popular but then we could get it back on the boat for free.

Still more to come.

drron · Dec 11, 2012

At least the facilities showed evidence of maintenance-

There were paths leading to other villages-

And evidence that the village indeed was being used-

The poultry must taste good being fed on mangoes-

But this fellow would just not take my advice that it was only a couple of days to Thanksgiving and he should take off-

All in all an interesting stop.When we got back to the ship we noticed a lot of canoes at the stern-

This cruise was the second since the Cloud had been in dry dock.The old pool furniture,carpets etc were being given to the village.As well we later learnt they also supplied them with cereals and other healthy food alternatives.Well done Silverseas.

Next-off to Manaus.

drron · Dec 12, 2012

At Boca the banks of the Amazon were different to what we had seen up until now-

Now you might notice something in the picture of the Cloud anchored off Boca-

Yes another meeting of the waters.So we then started for Manaus.That day we came last at Trivia so had to go to the bar and down a couple of mojitos.Once again we had dinner with our friends from Vermont.The quail stuffed with spinach and foie gras was delicious.
Now some of the scenery as we headed for Manaus-

And then as we got close to Manaus first the mixing of the waters and then the meeting-

Manaus to be continued.

drron · Dec 12, 2012

It was Thanksgiving as we steamed towards Manaus.I doubted we had much to be thankful for with the temperature hovering around 40C with humidity approaching 100%.As we got closer to Manaus the more evidence of industry we saw.Also the smoke haze was now added to with industrial pollution.This is not the glamorous spot in the centre of the Amazon.

Ships left high and dry after the last wet season-

Evidence of the military presence-

And more industry-

And it is a major hub for river traffic-

drron · Dec 12, 2012

Arriving at the floating dock we saw these-

Yes a lot of young Germans on the Aida-they changed passengers here-and the Semester of the Seas with a large group of young Americans from the University of Virginia.
From the dock there was this nice old building-

And a view of the first bridge over the Amazon-

Some of the housing was basic-

There was also a local vessel which cruises the rivers-

But the most impressive feature is the dock itself,as I said it is floating and this is why-

We are at the end of the dry season so the river level is low.You can see how far it rises.This truly is a majestic river.And to end this post there were a few up market vessels-

drron · Dec 13, 2012

We decided to explore Manaus indepently.The distances weren't great,admission prices low and if it wasn't for the heat and humidity it would have been fine.To get from the ship to shore you had to take a port shuttle to the passenger terminal dodging the freight traffic.The port is just a remnant of it's glory days a century ago but there was one restored building-