Wandjina dreaming - Kimberley trails

[bPeteb]

Just found these photos in amongst ours. They'd been added to the group's WhatsApp chat.

The first are of a murmuration of budgies. Hugh even knew what the word was when Zane asked what a flock of budgies flying around is. What a great word


the second is of Cathedral Chasm by one of the group who raced ahead to get a shot with no-one in there


It was a long drive to Fitzroy Crossing, especially as we had the 90ish minute drive out of Purnululu to start with


After stopping to dump our rubbish, and for me to look after Colin after he misbehaved for the second time in eight hours, we drove to Halls Creek and visited China Wall China Wall - Halls Creek Tourism

We had our first lunch at the northern end of the Devonian reef system and China Wall was the southern end. A really amazing reef of white quartz jutting out of the ground.



this lizard loved the attention

 

[bPeteb]

then back into Halls Creek for a toilet and coffee break where I went and had a look at the gold mining memoribilia in the park opposite the servo


a decent size Telstra facility in town

 

[bPeteb]

Lunch stop was at Mary Pool where there wasn't much of a pool



and we continued on towards Fitzroy Crossing. At one point we could see the smoke of a number of fires in front of us and eventually we drove past and through some of them

stopping at the Ngumban Cliff rest area for another loo break


couldn't decide if this grasshopper was supposed to look like this or somehow it's feelers had been bitten off. It has a head like a gecko. Bizarre

 

[bPeteb]

We got to Fitzroy Crossing and drove across the emergency bridge into town to pick up Jane Langjili who runs Nyanjili Footstep Tours. Jane would take us on a cultural tour of some of Fitzroy Crossing.

For those not aware, Fitzroy Crossing was devasted by floods at the start of the year. As this article explains, Six months on from WA's worst floods, the scars are still raw in Fitzroy Crossing, Fitzroy is nowhere near back to normal. Considering there are houses around the corner from us who are just getting their repair work started after the Feb 2022 Brisbane floods, I can understand.

One of the first things that Jane did was explain was that Langjili was her family name and Nyanjili her kinship name. Aboriginal culture is incredibly complex. Jane talked about how once a couple marries, out of traditional respect the son-in-law can never see the face of his mother-in-law again. Some houses have two entrances, kitchens, bathrooms so there is never a risk of people who can't see each otherdoing that.

We stopped at the site of the old gaol, courthouse, police station and post office. Horrific before and now looking even worse after they were submerged by the floodwaters earlier in the year. Jane warned us all to be aware of snakes. While we were stood here Jane made comment of the fact that the pastoral leases along the Fitzroy have all been bought up by Gina R and Twiggy Forrest. There is great concern as to their intent, especially with the recent wind back of the cultural protection legislation in WA.



we then drove around to the Crossing Inn where the walls of the pub became a gallery that the local community created. Again, the inn was another place devastated by the floods. The 'outdoor pub' has just re-opened.

 

[bPeteb]

more of the gallery


after dropping off Jane it was back across the river to Fitzroy River Lodge and the final camp of our trip. The tents were a bit ordinary, ours especially. We were told not to leave anything outside as the local kids often wandered around and took anything left outside. They would not ever go into a tent though.

Beautiful sunset

 

[bPeteb]

The last dinner of our trip was at the tavern at the lodge. Jane and her family (husband and two of ? daughters) were invited to join us and they were great company.

As with our other non-camp meals we pre-ordered. Zane had warned us they always muck up some of the meals and so that came to pass. Nothing major and evertually all sorted. BIG meals.

My blurry barra. Ok, but not as good as at Lake Argyle


Graham not quite prepared for the scale (boom boom) of his fish of the day but it was apparently delicious. My sister had the same

if there's ribs, I always know what bAlt will be having

our tent was under a gum that dripped sticky sap all night. Each time I got up, my birkies got a few more leaves stuck to them

Final day Lots of group tours, Intrepids are our experience, say a tour is x days long but it really is usually two days less. Day one is a meet and greet the evening before and the last day usually finishes after breakfast. This was sold as a 14 tour and it was a full 14 days. We started at 7am on day 1 and we finished at whatever time we were dropped off at out accomodation in Broome on day 14.

So the day began. Early as always but not quite as early as our destination was under cover


these were swallow nests in the amenities block


the power of a cyclone - a bent steel power pole

 

[bPeteb]

It wasn't a very long drive to Tunnel Creek. We stopped at yet another amazing rock formation on the way



Tunnel Creek. Just amazing. Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) National Park

One of the things you're told to pack on this trip are waterproof shoes of some kind as this walk involves walking in water and a short swim. Graham of course was worried about the swim and despite Zane's assurances, he decided to forgo the journey through the cave.

 

[bPeteb]

Wow. What a way to finish the trip. Just incredible.


The swim was short and quite cool.

 

[bPeteb]

Zane had quite the bod. Oh, yeh, the only good toad is a dead toad. Sadly this one was still alive

 

[bPeteb]

Once we'd all dried off it was off to our surprise fro the day. A couple of us already knew, but for most the trip stop at Windjana Gorge was a big surprise Bandiln͟gan (Windjana Gorge) National Park

As with Fitzroy Crossing, Windjana had been devastated by the floods, and then got hit a second time by unseasonal rains at the start of July. The campground was still closed but the walk into the gorge has just opened.

Zane was shocked at what it looked like. Whereas before it had been a walk along the edge of the water shaded by large gums it was now open and way above the water. The power of nature



Jandamarra's rock in the centre of the picture


see person in bottom of photo to give some scale


our very last meal. I had been just a bit scared of this trip and it had been one of the best experiences of my life. It will be very difficult to top


we'd put together a collection for Zane and Pat. I'm not a tipper but it was impossible to say no when asked. These guys had truly been amazing. They were knowledgeable, kind, caring, funny and most important of all kept us safe

 

[drron]

I guess Gina and Tiggy are interested in the minerals in the area. A lot of exploration and mining in the area with Rare earths, nickel, copper, cobalt amongst others. Even the possibility of a new diamond mine.

 

[Flyfrequently]

Once we'd all dried off it was off to our surprise fro the day. A couple of us already knew, but for most the trip stop at Windjana Gorge was a big surprise Bandiln͟gan (Windjana Gorge) National Park

As with Fitzroy Crossing, Windjana had been devastated by the floods, and then got hit a second time by unseasonal rains at the start of July. The campground was still closed but the walk into the gorge has just opened.

Zane was shocked at what it looked like. Whereas before it had been a walk along the edge of the water shaded by large gums it was now open and way above the water. The power of nature
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Jandamarra's rock in the centre of the picture
View attachment 347748

see person in bottom of photo to give some scale
View attachment 347749

our very last meal. I had been just a bit scared of this trip and it had been one of the best experiences of my life. It will be very difficult to top
View attachment 347750

we'd put together a collection for Zane and Pat. I'm not a tipper but it was impossible to say no when asked. These guys had truly been amazing. They were knowledgeable, kind, caring, funny and most important of all kept us safe
View attachment 347752

Great adventure @bPeteb and terrific report, thanks for having us share your journey - love those sunsets.

 

[bPeteb]

It was a bit of a sombre ride into Broome. Despite our differences everyone had gone along incredibly well. So much laughter. So much care for each other

the charging ports on the side of, and under, the seats (plus my trusty Croc sandals



'Do nothing' Michael from the Valley had worn old style slip on Crocs for pretty much the entire trip. I have no idea how he stayed upright.

We had another loo stop at Willare then it was straight through to Broome. Goodbye Gibb River Road


sun setting as we get to Broome


We were all dropped off at our accommodation. We were the second last group when we were dropped off outside Seashells at Cable Beach. A handshake from Zane but huge hugs for us all from Pat. I really hope we get to see him again and he gets his residency sorted. He is a fantastic guy.

Once I read my messages correctly it was easy to get into the key safe and to our room at Seashells. Seashells Broome - Accommodation by Cable Beach - Apartment & Bungalow Style

Of course this trip couldn't go without another 'leave something behind' moment. At some point quite a while after we'd been in our oom I realised that I didn't have my mobile. I'd had it out at the front of the hotel and there it was still sitting on a bench seat outside reception. Phew.

Huge two bedroom apartment at the rear of the complex. Away from the pool. Perfect




dinner at the tavern a 10 minute walk around the corner. A very nice steak sanger

 

[kookaburra75]

Thanks again for putting together the trip report. I have enjoyed following along and seeing all of the 'old' places I travelled to for work, and some for recreation. I've been digging through my slide collection, getting out the photos of all of the places you visited to show MrsK. At least your tour was a lot more comfortable compared to the old days, when things were a bit more primitive back then. MrsK says she will do camping, just no squatting in the spinifex.

I am definitely going to follow up on planning for a trip back up north in the next year or so.

 

[bPeteb]

We had two nights at Seashells to wrap up this fantastic adventure. We planned to do as little as possible. We attempted to sleep in (all unsuccessful) so walked around to the beach and had a very nice breakfast at Zanders Zanders



had a wander along the beach



Seashells was not much more than a five minute walk to the beach


went back and got our beach gear and had a swim in the Indian Ocean

had some early afternoon coughtails back at Zanders

 

[bPeteb]

There was a pop-up for Moontide in the complex next door to Seashells. In we went and replaced the gin we'd consumed on the trip.


There was also a range of really nice shirts and swim shorts in the store. The guy who was in there was behind the clothing. He took the pictures and his wife did the design work to get them on the shorts. Wildthing Clothing Wildthing Clothing has a much bigger range of clothing than was on display, all made from recycled plastics. Of course we bought some shorts


we'd originally booked dinner at Bali Hai but when we saw that Zookeepers was open (next door to Seashells) we rebooked. Lucky we did. It was packed.

First though, the iconic Cable Beach sunset, complete with a little Willie and some big camels

 

[bPeteb]

 

[bPeteb]

Despite the Valley crowd telling us to avoid Zookeepers for all sorts of 'old people' reasons, we loved it. Great music, super interesting food, excellent coughtails. Some of the coughtails and some of the food

 

[SuePa]

Thanks for sharing your photos and adventure.
I keep saying 'no more camping', but this one could tempt me back!

 

[bPeteb]

and so to what was supposed to be the last day of our trip.

Love this croc outside of Willie Creek Pearls (same complex as Zookeepers and the Moontide pop-up)


We thought we'd have breakfast around at Cable Beach Club. Apart from the staff being what I'd politely describe as abrupt, this is what we got for 'breakfast'


at Cichetti. I was completely speechless. Chia seed 'pudding' and the granola. Wtaf?


I had worn dad's gardening hat for the majority of the trip. It was such a great hat but had started to come apart by the end of the trip. It would have been his 100th in July. Just 18 months short. I'd intended to put it on the fire on the last night in the Bungles but that just didn't happen.

Instead, I stripped it back to straw and set it out to sea. No different to the other stcks and branches floating around out there. He loved being on the water (just not in it!).


Had a final swim and then my sister headed off with some of the Valley gang as her flight wasn't until nearly 7pm. Ours was at 2. We hung in the aircon in the lobby of Seashells then got a cab to the airport in prep for our 2pm flight to Perth.

I've detailed what happened in this thread Qantaslink A320 goes tech after arrival in BME from PER. Flight was a turnaround to PER. Qantas' response to the situation.

Before it all went to cough we each had an incredibly expensive pie, I think $9.50, for lunch


After it went to cough using our vouvhers we both had a slice of quiche and it was quite nice


eventually we wanderd into town and had dinner at the Roey and played some drag bingo


Finally on our way to Perth at about 11pm. Served this samosa thing. We had it on the flight here. Needs sauce!