Whispering sweet nothings.

[turtlemichael]

More Bora Bora

Stingray



Black tipped reef sharks.


Unbelievably clear water


Conrad Bora Bora


Some big guys greeted us.

 

[Pushka]

I wonder if their national airline has regular size seats?

 

[turtlemichael]

I forgot to put the map of our second segment up so here goes. I am totally frustrated by the state of our internet access which is the worst of any cruise we have taken. I'm told the reason is satellite access in a relatively remote location coupled with the fact that on a Silversea world cruise everyone has access to "premium" internet included in the price. If there ever was a misnomer, that is it It seems to work passably at 5.00am! We are told that it will work better as we approach New Zealand and Australia in the coming days. We shall see. Other than that this is a fantastic cruise.

​

 

[turtlemichael]

Day 16 Jan 21 Rarotonga, Cook Islands.. We have been here once before and had a good day, 10 years ago, snorkeling. This time we decided to just go for a walk around town and also visit a cemetery to see the grave of one of Turtle 2's heroes, a woman who saved many lives in WW1 with her enlightened approach to the needs of the soldiers of New Zealand and Australia. She fought against great odds and antipathy from the authorities. If there is any interest, google Ettie Rout.

We were lucky to get in because the ship has to anchor outside the fringing reef because it is so close the coast and there is no room inside the calm lagoon for any substantial ships. The weather was windy and it was a bouncy ride in the tender but the captain did a great job in getting us ashore. So far it s 7 out of 7 ports. This is a very laid back and sleepy place after French Polynesia. I don't think it has changed much in 10 years. It is characterised however by the friendliness of the locals.


Another big guy band greeted us.


Hmm. "Deluded natives"?


We were the tourist attraction to these kids on the school bus, or rather school truck.

 

[drron]

I was fortunate to have as a lecturer in Public health Sir Edward Ford.He did recount to us the story of Ettie Rout.It took some time but eventually Kiwis got to hear her story-
Ettie Rout Great War Story | NZHistory, New Zealand history online

Prof ford was also a little eccentric-
"Ted was knighted in 1960. He summarised his career and philosophy when he declined representation in a book on Australia’s great biologists. Writing in the third person to the editors, and signing as his own secretary, he stated that Sir Edward regarded himself as a physician, a teacher and an historian. He is reputed to have written letters to the newspapers on controversial issues on which he could not express a public view, under his sister’s married name."
Ford, Sir Edward - Faculty of Medicine Online Museum and Archive

 

[turtlemichael]

I was fortunate to have as a lecturer in Public health Sir Edward Ford.He did recount to us the story of Ettie Rout.It took some time but eventually Kiwis got to hear her story-
Ettie Rout Great War Story | NZHistory, New Zealand history online

Prof ford was also a little eccentric-
"Ted was knighted in 1960. He summarised his career and philosophy when he declined representation in a book on Australia’s great biologists. Writing in the third person to the editors, and signing as his own secretary, he stated that Sir Edward regarded himself as a physician, a teacher and an historian. He is reputed to have written letters to the newspapers on controversial issues on which he could not express a public view, under his sister’s married name."
Ford, Sir Edward - Faculty of Medicine Online Museum and Archive

Sir Edward Ford also taught Turtle 2 in Public Health. He describes him as a character!

On Ettie Rout we found her grave when we visited the island 10 years ago. It was in the very back row of the Cook Island Christian Church graveyard because she apparently committed suicide in 1936 by a deliberate overdose of quinine and that is where you buried those who suicided. The gravestone was neglected and shattered. Turtle 2 got on to colleagues in NZ who started a fund to look after the grave with the help of a local on Rarotonga. It is now restored.

 

[turtlemichael]

Day 19, Jan 25, Neiafu, Vava’u, Tonga.

We’ve had a three-day sail from Rarotonga to Tonga. At least, it was three days by the calendar but in reality, two days as we crossed the International Date Line and are now on NZ time. The weather continues to be very good and the seas smooth. We’ve barely seen a white cap across the Pacific but the Tasman does lie ahead. I’m starting to watch the North Queensland cyclone forecasts where we’ll be in a couple of weeks but, aside from the present deep low in the Gulf which won’t affect us, it all looks good. Having lived there for 21 years I know that it can change quickly at this time of the year.

Our port, Neiafu, is in the north part of the Tongan archipelago and the second largest town, after the capital Nuku’alofa. It only has about 6000 people. There is a limited tourism industry which centres on whale watching in the latter part of the year. Now is deadly quiet in the wet season so I think we were welcome. It's the first time we've been to Tonga. Its GDP is not high and it has its problems including being the country with the seventh highest obesity rate.

It is definitely Sleepy Hollow and quite poor looking but, even more so than the other islands of Polynesia we’ve been to, it is a very smiley place. Some of the pictures below show that. I could think of worst places to live as it is a thoroughly beautiful place. Apparently, many Australian buy land here and build houses.

Our tour guide, whose photo is here, is a primary school teacher in real life. It is still school holidays, so she was supplementing the family income. She is probably very busy at her day job as the median age here is only 23. I can guess how they pass their time in this very quiet neck of the woods! She loves her town and the island and the laid back lifestyle and she thinks Nuku'alofa is too big and busy, "like New York".

The sunrise on my morning deck walk as we approached Neiafu. The photo was taken by another guest.







Where the Australians and Kiwis live.

The school band was good but looked a little bored between numbers.


These 12 year old dancers I think are the junior training squad for the Tongan Rugby World Cup team.


Our happy guide.

 

[turtlemichael]

Rush hour on Deck 9.

 

[turtlemichael]

More Tonga.

Our bus had seen better days. It was held together by wire and string and I'm sure the view through the side mirror wasn't the best.


Cemeteries were all very colourful.




The Catholic Cathedral is in the background.






Tomatoes at 30 cents a pile.

Plantains.

 

[turtlemichael]

For Australia Day yesterday, Silversea put on a coughtail party. It was officially for Australians and friends. There were more friends there than Australians but that was fine. I can't say it was the free booze that got them along as it is free, or rather, included, everywhere. I am sure that we are much loved, amusing and good company. The atmosphere on a world cruise is very different from any other I've been on. There is much more mixing and conviviality and Silversea's high standards are even higher. The efforts that go into reducing boredom with food etc and great. The food is amongst the best I've had on any cruise to date. So I am a world cruise aficionado at least at this point three weeks in.

 

[turtlemichael]

These weren't ours of course. I took the photos on someone else's table. (The devil made us do it!)


Chocolate brownie

Ginger crème brulee.

 

[turtlemichael]

Day 23, January 29, Auckland. We are now starting to motor across the Tasman towards Sydney having just passed Cape Reinga. Motoring is a relative word as we are doing a leisurely 14.5 knots. The sea has immediately got a much bigger swell as we pass the top of NZ.

Yesterday was Tuesday so it must have been Auckland. Again, we were lucky with the weather as it was a balmy 28C which is just shy of their January record, at least according to their wiki.

We did a morning visit with the chef and some fellow passengers to the Auckland Fish Market. We were too late for the fish auction which occurs every day very early in the morning but it was explained to us by one of the market's staff. They conduct a Dutch auction of fish lots with the buyers using a highly developed electronic system sitting at desks! I never knew that. There was a retail side attached to the market and that satisfied us as we could actually see fish. A few came back with the chef.

After, we got the ferry across to Devonport which was a great spot opposite Auckland CBD. We haven't been there before but will go again as there are loads of cafes and restaurants and many Victorian houses, mainly small, which now cost zillions. We hiked up Mt Victoria to see the impressive views back to the city.

After 3 weeks of ship food we decided to go out for dinner and continue the pescetarian theme of the day by eating at Fish in the Hilton next door. It was generally okay but a little disappointing when so much of the fish was imported. New Zealand is not short of many things including fish.

Finally, back on board we had a late night show by a Maori entertainment troop. They were very good and very entertainling. Somehow "Pokarekare Ana", the traditional Maori love song, morphed into "Solo Mio" and then "Do the Hokey Pokey". You had to be there!

It ended with a truly scary Haka that would have won them a Rugby World Cup.


The rather unusual Lighthouse installation at the end of Queen's wharf.






Green lip mussels for lunch in Devonport, Auckland.

The view from Mt Victoria, Devonport.


Ovation of the Seas dwarfs us. It is 6 times as big, has 15 times the passengers, and has to tender because there is no berth big enough.

 

[kermatu]

Yesterday was Tuesday so it must have been Auckland. Again, we were lucky with the weather as it was a balmy 28C which is just shy of their January record, at least according to their wiki.

I've had a few days in Auckland this month. By far the most consistently stunning spell of weather I've experienced in the city

After 3 weeks of ship food we decided to go out for dinner and continue the pescetarian theme of the day by eating at Fish in the Hilton next door. It was generally okay but a little disappointing when so much of the fish was imported. New Zealand is not short of many things including fish.

Have stayed at the Hilton a dozen times but only had dinner there once. Breakfasts are great (with a fabulous spot on the water for sunrise views in Spring / Autumn), but dinner is a disappointment. Lots of other great places in AKL. Next time....

 

[turtlemichael]

Have stayed at the Hilton a dozen times but only had dinner there once. Breakfasts are great (with a fabulous spot on the water for sunrise views in Spring / Autumn), but dinner is a disappointment. Lots of other great places in AKL. Next time....

Ditto for me but I've had a good meal there in the distant past. Service was very good and the wine list fine..just the food bombed lol We wanted somewhere easily walkable. We also thought of Euro. Next time is right...

 

[Milboo]

Disappointing about the Hilton. I’ve stayed a few times - albeit a few years ago now and the food was excellent.

Good to know for any future visits!

 

[kermatu]

Disappointing about the Hilton. I’ve stayed a few times - albeit a few years ago now and the food was excellent.

Good to know for any future visits!

It's a real shame as the refurbished restaurant and bar downstairs are very nice spaces. Restricted menu obviously but I find the bar and room service menu to be much better value.

 

[RB]

I believe you went past our place at PQQ this morning. Too far out for my camera gear to get a decent photo

 

[turtlemichael]

I believe you went past our place at PQQ this morning. Too far out for my camera gear to get a decent photo

Quite probably it was us RB. We are now approaching Coffs Harbour and it is just after noon but we are still well out to sea. I hope you waved anyway!

 

[turtlemichael]

Day 27 Feb 2 Sydney

After an amazingly flat crossing of the Tasman for two and a half days from Auckland we hit some rougher weather in the last half day as we approached Sydney. It was a long way from seriously rough, but it made a big change. In fact, it has been basically flat seas since leaving San Francisco four weeks ago. Where has that gone?

Unfortunately, the weather was bad as we entered the Harbour and steadily got worse. It was a pity but nothing can take away from one of the great cruising highlights, sailing into Sydney. We came in in convey of two with one of the slightly larger and newer Silversea ships, Silver Muse. That is the one on which the Drrons sailed out on later in the day.

The megaship Ovation of the Seas, which we had seen in Auckland, had the prime position at Circular Quay so we sailed under the Bridge to what is known in cruising lingo as Siberia, aka White Bay.

We and Muse were buzzed by a drone which Silversea had arranged to take pictures as we approached. Pity the weather was so poor but that is what picture editing is for!

We spent the day visiting Turtle 2’s brother and family and stocked up on medications. The pharmacist’s eyes lit up!


The pilot coming aboard outside Sydney Heads.

Following Silver Muse into the Harbour

Ovation of the Seas at Circular Quay

 

[turtlemichael]

In the evening Silversea had arrange to take around 150 of us to a performance of La Boheme at the Opera House. They put on a Captain Cook cruises boat to take us to Man of War steps and the booze flowed freely on the way. The Opera was good and very well sung but the production was a little hard to understand. Somehow we appeared to be in 1930’s Germany for part of it, and at other times in the more traditional garret in Paris, which overall didn’t seem to make a lot of sense. But it was a thrill to see something at the Opera House, in very good seats, and most appeared to enjoy it.


Oceania Regatta arriving at White Bay.

Rather a strange insert in the bottom right corner on this sign in Hyde Park.