Will I see stars? Aoraki Mount Cook Dark Sky Reserve, NZ

tdimdad

Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2013
Posts
1,780
A little status run to NZ keeps your fresh. Perhaps.

But to give the run a proper excuse, it's time to head out for some stargazing. I'm far from being interested in astronomy or anything fancy and civilised like that but do enjoy looking up and marveling the universe. The magnitude you sense does also put you back in your place. In other words, keeps you grounded and humble.

With this TR, I try creating one on the fly, using my phone. Shorter comments, less photos.
 
Day 1 - Positioning

To get going, it was time to take an evening flight SYD-OOL (QF596). Everything was looking good - until the train had a longer than usual stop in Waverton, then very slow progress across the Harbour Bridge and towards the city. An incident in Newtown messed up the routine operations. The transport app showed the Airport line impacted, as well.

At Central, waiting on an overly packed train, then a sudden change of train routing: Airport line closed during the 5 pm peak... Lucky, I was over if the early ones to get an Uber order in and soon on my way, arriving in T3 half an hour behind the intended time. A breeze through the security, a quick meal in the lounge, and time to fly.

A late departure (crew late) but arrival on time.

Geez, after the usual row 4, this row 6 feels a squeeze! 😱
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Given an early morning the next day, what's the closest and cheapest bed by the airport? That was a bunk bed in a dorm room at the YHA hostel. It was a new experience for me so decided to brave it and see what that's like.

Well, it's a bed. If that's all you care about, it works. I got a mediocre sleep but enough to get going in the morning.
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Your report has already helped me with room decisions for any future Gold Coast trips;). I am looking forward to following your adventures though
 
Day 2 - Gold Coast to Aoraki Mount Cook - Well, almost

5:20 am wake-up, 5:40 out of the hostel, brisk pre-dawn walk and at 5:55 I'm waiting for the Qantas Club to open. A quick shower, breakfast #1 and then onto QF591.

The connection in SYD was 1:45 long and was just suitable this time around. I arrived at T3 gate 15 at 8:40, on a bus at 8:55, in T1 passport control 9:15 and ten mins later in the lounge for a coffee & yoghurt before QF137.

This is what I'm here for! Plus, the stars. Flying over the west coast of NZ.
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Arrival on time. Next, car rental. I had scored a really affordable fare from Sixt for a minivan (WV Sharan). I had it also last time, like the car and was looking forward to another round. But at the desk, we had a chat with the agent about snow chains, etc, and she ended up up-selling me a full-size 4WD for only $20/day extra.

Keeping up the pace on the road to get as far as possible before dark and subzero temperatures. And at 6:30 I got to Fairlie to find the highway from there closed. The traffic control lady told that she can't stop me continuing through the roadblock but if I get stuck, no help will be sent and my insurance is null and void on that section. I knew the closures are a possibility and had watched for accommodation vacancies en route. Ashburton, check. Geraldine, check. Now to find a room in Fairlie so I can wait for the road to open. Got the last room in a nearby motel and really enjoyed a properly heated room. End of the day, 130 km short of the destination.

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Day 3 - Destination and a billion stars

The latest & greatest the night before was that the road might open at 10 am. So, after a cozy night and a breakfast I join the queue waiting to get moving. And yes, at 10:30 the cones & signs are off, the conga line moves. Avoided 2+ hours extra driving on a detour.

A scenic drive among the snow (and wondering why would they have closed a perfectly good road) to tourist photos and an early lunch at Lake Tekapo.
Lake Tekapo church.jpg

Finally at the at the destination, ready for the highlight of the trip: stargazing at the Lake Pukaki Wine Cellar Observatory. The night sky was brilliant, perhaps the clearest I've seen in decades! Zero clouds, crisp and powerful. So much of the Milky Way was visible that I thought first it'd be cloud haze. But now, too many stars visible...

From the Mount Cook Village, you can buy yourself a stargazing tour. Essentially, that'll be a trip to the local airstrip with an astronomer. At the observatory, we sat down to learn about the sky and took turns enjoying view through a telescope.

This photo I took from one of the lookouts on the roadside. The sky is amazing over here, certainly beats Sydney (including the new Urban Dark Sky Reserve in Palm Beach).
Lake Pukaki night sky.JPG

The main reason for the trip has been fulfilled. From here on, it's a fun ride to the end.
 
Day 4 - Tramping, hiking, trekking, bushwalking, call it what you will

Last time I wished to do some walks but it was rainy and many of the tracks were closed. This time around, two shorter and simpler tracks were open and they more than made up for what I had missed last year. The beauty of the snowy landscape is exhilarating.

From The Hermitage to Kea Point and back (5.6 km return, 1:40 h total time including photos on the way and at the other end). The 1/3 closest to the hotel was clearly most walked and icy but then it became snowy and a lot easier. A side track to Sealy Tarns would also have been open but the local National Parks office mentioned that it'll require crampons etc and avalanche gear. Leaving that to next time, then...

A little drive to the White Horse Hill campground and the Hooker Valley track from there is well worth doing. 10.6 km / 3 h (return) takes you to a glacier lake with prime views of the Aoraki Mount Cook peaks. Similar to the previous, the most popular part at the start to the first swing bridge (of three) was icy but after that mostly snowy and easy.

Aoraki Mount Cook from Hooker Valley Track.JPG

Now I need to wait for summer to be able to do the longer tracks which were closed for now. The views alone make it worth going back.

This trip has more than made up for the missed parts last year. One of the most fulfilling trips I've done in a long while! Short but sweet.
 
Day 5 - Christchurch

Time to start the journey back. Two full days at the destination was good. A third one would have been brilliant but you always need to leave appetite for more. 😎

A leisurely drive back and straight to the city. I had three hours before it was time to go and return the car to the airport.

The old Christ Church (Cathedral) first. That's a sad sight considering how much time has passed since the earthquakes in 2010 and 2011. If I was local, I would probably feel a level of loss given how integral the church might have been to the city centre's identity and appearance. I hope they get it rebuilt soon again.

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Of course, to balance this I had to also have a quick look at the "Cardboard Cathedral". If it really has been constructed using cardboard, that's impressive!
They also seem to host concerts there. It'll be interesting to attend one just to hear how the acoustics differ from the usual wood or concrete venues.
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The Quake City museum was also worthy a visit. The guide at the entrance said it'll take about 45 mins to go through. Well, an hour later I walked out - after only skimming half of the exhibits. Plus, there are 2+ hours of video material on display, as well. If you want to take it all in, book 3-4 hours for it. The mix of human impact, rescue ops, geology and engineering is well balanced and thought out.

I liked this museum. To me, it serves a very important purpose of helping us to see and understand the "on the ground" experience of locals.
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After dropping off the car and checking into my accommodation, it was time to catch a bus back to the city for dinner and wandering around city in the evening. All attractions seemed to close between 4-5 pm so my expectations were low on what I would see.

For dinner, I tested Little High Eatery. A food court or a small hawker centre are perhaps the closest ways to describe it. It was really cool! Pizza, burgers, and several Asian outlets, and gelato. That place was buzzing. My Thai curry was tasty though quite mild on the spiciness side. ⭐⭐⭐⭐ and would definitely do this place again.

For more adult taste, the Cathedral Junction, New Regent Street and their moving Tram Restaurant might be appealing. Though, many of the venues on New Regent Street seemed to be open at daytime and it was pretty quiet at 8 pm.

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Here and there around the city centre there are street art paintings. It brings colour to the blocks which otherwise seemed to be quite a mix of derelict buildings and creative new architecture. The city centre is visually really varied with some sad elements and cool new features side by side all over the place. It's also perfectly walkable, meaning that you get to see a lot of it within a reasonable radius.

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Would I visit here again? I would, for a couple of days. But those place didn't captivate like some other places have done. It'd be a great base for exploration, though.
 
Final thoughts on accommodation and flights

To round this up, some comments on the travel itself.

Accommodation
This time around I wanted to try the cheap and hopefully cheerful options to see how they go. For a proper introvert, even the thought of hostel dorm rooms is alien and a short stint in a share house some ten years ago showed that they are ok for me only in very highly selective settings (like, in 0.0000001% of possibilities in the world). But here we go anyway...

Night 1 - YHA Coolangatta. This I already mentioned in a post above. Works as a crash pad but that's all and I won't be in a hurry to do this again. They do also have individual rooms which might work better but for the same price you can also get a modest hotel room.

Night 2 - Aorangi Motel, Fairlie. An unplanned stop en route. This was the best accommodation on this trip. I got their 1-bed unit which was roomy, had beds for 4 pax and small but ok kitchen and bathroom. The property is partially outdated but very well maintained and perhaps the cleanest accommodation in a long while. An added bonus: under-floor heating which made this blissfully comfy. I had hard time leaving in the morning.

Nights 3-4 - Glentanner Park Centre. I was here last year in a cabin so this was a return visit but this time in a dorm room. They have a big shared kitchen, a separate new(ish) bathroom block, and a cafe + gift shop + activity bookings desk at the reception. The dorm room was shot full of beds (10) and had a toilet & sink. The separate cabins have beds only. Most guests on site were on campervans, etc. The kitchen works and the dining room has a fireplace which the staff keep lit up. If you take a cabin or have a campervan, this is an ok place to stay. The bathroom block is cold at wintertime, though (has heating but the ventilation counteracts it). Next time I'll see if I can find a different place to stay in the area.

Night 5 - Lylo Christchurch. Of the three hostels this was by far the best. It used to be Jucy and I stayed here in 2019 so knew what to expect. They also have single and double rooms. the shared bathrooms were big and clean when I checked in. They also have a large communal kitchen & social space. The property is a 10 min walk from the CHC terminal and very convenient for a late night arrival or early morning departure (like in my case, 4:50 am out of the door for a shower & brekkie in the lounge before 6:25 am flight). I'd happily stay here again if I need a simple bed near the airport.

Glentanner dorm room. This will be crowded when full. The best part of this holiday park is the view towards Aoraki Mount Cook from the yard.
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Lylo CHC capsules are simple but spacious enough for you to spend the night. They offer two features lacking from the other hostels: blind for privacy and large locked luggage storage under the beds.
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Flights
Three things caught my attention during the transit itself. Being a stock standard status run, the usual 4 * J is to be expected.

The new group boarding worked nicely. It looks like the pax in general have adopted the practice - as could be expected - and it went smoothly for the early groups. I also felt that everyone, staff and pax, were in a more relaxed mood about the boarding. Funnily enough, it was a lot harder for QF to implement than for pax to follow...

Onboard meals. Having a special meal order in does somehow seem to stretch the organisational skills of FA's. Only on one flight, the FA mentioned upfront that "I've got your meal here". With the others, I had to ask for it and then they recalled having it. This is consistent on QF, though, so nothing new here.

The breakfast out of CHC (QF132) was the best onboard meal I had. The only shortfall was the scrambled eggs which was either made of some kind of powder / mix or a vegan replacement, and edible but not appetising.
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Of the two variants of B737 J cabins QF has, I like this old one a lot more. The lumbar support on the seat is a very welcomed feature, and having a properly full-sized table is fantastic. It also has a more versatile leg support function but I didn't explore that to its fullest. I wish all their B737 J's were like this.
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Then a delightful surprise in the QF MELd business lounge: GF cereals. At a glacial pace they are realising that there are also non-mainstream eaters out there and a baby step at a time they are catching up. Good on them! Now, please speed up and offer a fuller range of food...

BTW, another find worthy a smile was chia puddings (in OOL QC and MELd J). A little adjustment to the ingredients and/or recipe to switch from the slightly bitter taste to the the typical smoothness of a good chia pudding and we'll be friends.
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On arrival back to OOL, an Uber to Varsity Lakes station, train to Brisbane, a family birthday, and then the last VA flight of the day back to SYD. The loop has closed.

This trip was well worth doing. Last year I missed aspects I wanted to do but this year got them with interest and more. I have an urge to go back soon again! Perhaps it's a little hiking trip at summer. Who knows...
 
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Good read. Got a 3 week run to the south island booked for early 2025. The flight options to Christchurch are poor these days!
 

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