With the Explorer in Africa.

[Cool Cat Phil]

Then on friday it is QF63-SYD-JNB.JASAs for both of us.A stop at the airport in JNB that night before picking up our rental car-this is what worries mrsdrron.We drive to the Drakensbergs staying at the Cathedral Peak hotel.Picked because there is a helicopter based there and we are taking a trip to view Tugela Falls,unfortunately from a distance.It is the second highest falls in the world but also our granddaughter is Tugela.


Next is SA53-ACC-JNB with a night spent at the Sheraton Pretoria before a 10 day safari in Botswana and Zambia.
SA8300 to Maun then BA6292 LVI-JNB.
Then flying home on QF64.I had been able to get 2 cheap FASAs on this but alas that has now been downgraded to JASAs.

So stay tuned.

Wow.. I've just stumbled across this fantastic Travel Blog.



As someone hitting the shores of South Africa at the end of this month you have given me plenty of inspiration...... Thanks so much for all the effort in putting up a great detailed blog & some very scenic photos too.

I'll being doing so of the same flights too (Ie QF 63) so im greatful for your insights.

This is my first time to Africa, & i am beginning to think i have not given myself enough time..... by the looks of the wonderful places you have visited so far!

 

[drron]

Thanks Phil.I have another TR on the go about safaris in Botswana.Hopefully going to finish both in the next week or 2.
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....-trip-photos/a-botswanan-adventure-50060.html

Now back to Angola-
Monday-it must be Luanda.Our first glimpses-

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We were told today's plan had changed.A morning tour of the city with an important first and then the afternoon at a beach resort.Well we live just 300 metres from the beach and that is not what I came to see in Africa.
There were obviously other malcontents as after breakfast it was announced there would be an extended city tour for those who did not want to go to the resort.25 out of 102 opted for this alternative.
So off the 6 busses with their police escorts,2 ambulances,a Ministry of Tourism TV unit,a local TV news crew and tour company vehicles.We became the centre of attention.
So Luanda likes monuments-

But our first stop was the old portuges fort with great views over the Harbour not surprisingly-

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It was not open as it was being "restored"for the President to open that weekend.However it is becoming a National ilitary Museum so restored is not really accurate-I doubt there were aircraft on site when it was a Portugese fort.

The opening was the Anniversary of the 2002 peace ending the long Civil war.
The foreman on the site did not want to even let us walk around the site but the documentary crew reminded him that the President and Minister for Tourism wanted us "looked after".
But if you go to the other side you get a great view of Luanda's"townships".

Note all the satellite dishes-apparently this was an election promise and everyone got their dishes even if they had no power or a TV.
From the fort you also get an indication of the traffic problems and overcrowding-

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[drron]

We were then driven to our special treat but we drove past the ordinary citizens on the way-

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All of which is in marked contrast to the new Parliament building the politicians are getting-

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We were then taken to what was meant to be a highlight and a first for any tourist-

No it is not Angola's first rocket ready for launch but the Mausoleum of the first President of Angola-

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Built by the Russians.He died in 1979 in russia.Was reputed to have an illegitimate child in Bulgaria.His body is now said to be embalmed and somewhere inside the Mausoleum.Some reports though say the embalming was not successful so he was cremated.So in we went.We were not allowed to take pictures even though 2 TV crews were filmimg us.This was probably because the place is not really finished with many plaques incomplete or having corrections written over them.
At one stage we were ushered into a theatrette for a film of Dr.neto's life.We were being filmed so I sat in the front row proudly advertising a Tasmanian beer-moo brew.After 2-3 minutes the film stopped and we were asked to leave.It was all a publicity stunt.

Researching the building it was first started in the early 80s.In 2002 when the civil war ended a project was announced for it's refurbishment.It was to take 2 years.A news report in 2009 said the project would finish in March 2012.A year on and still incomplete.The new parliament building behind the Mausoleum is costing $US185 million and is also well behind schedule.
So a statue of the man-

 

[drron]

After that we went for a drive through the upmarket part of Luanda.We were allowed to take a photo of the hospital-

But no other pictures allowed even when we passed by the Catholic cathedral which was described to us as one of Luanda's most important tourist sites.
It was then that 4 busses with police escort proceeded to the port to transport people to the resort.There were a couple of last minute defections to the city tour so 2 busses set off with just an ambulance as escort.Fortunately it did have a siren-

Otherwise we would not have got far.
We drove past buildings in a state of disrepair-

And the current parliament building-

But our destination was the national museum of Anthropology-

lovely building,not too large with some interesting pieces-

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But then some really modern art-

 

[drron]

From the top of the Museum you could see this hotel-

Didn't really seem so Grande.Then outside to get back on the bus with our escort-

Then we were taken to another place which we were told we were also the first tourists to see refurbished-

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This is the Iron Palace which we were told was designed by Gustave Eiffel and it was going to be a diamond museum.This made sense as De Beers and the Angolan diamond office were across the road.
However researching afterwards there is doubt about Eiffel's part in this but most agree if it was not Eiffel's design it was done by one of his team.Also a lot of controversy as how it got to Luanda.The favourite story is it was bound for Madagascar but the ship ran aground off Angola so the Portugese took possession of it-was sent pre-fabricated.
Also found a press release saying a "delegation of 350 British tourists"from a cruise ship were the first to inspect it in February-but it did say the refurbishment was not complete then.Also said there will be 4 cruise ships in Luanda in 2013.

Then it was a short drive back to the ship.I continued to be amazed what the locals could carry on their head-

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And a typical street scene-

On the way back passed one of the best Portugese style buildings-

 

[drron]

We arrived back at the Explorer a little hot and sweaty so it was a cold shower before a late lunch in the restaurant-I had the crab and tomato timbale and the sweet and sour duck.At dinner it was pan fried scallops,tomato bisque and vegetable biryani-all of which suited my tastes.

Before dinner though was sailaway-a little after 5pm.We leave with the sounds of drums and singing from a local group-

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and present were people from the local tour company and the TV crews-

The little fellow in the picture interviewed our 9 year old surrogat grandson for the local TV.But what I loved throughout Africa were the happy smiling faces-

We were also farewelled by the fire department and our ambulance protectors at the fine passenger terminal-

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Leaving Luanda it was once again easy to spot the Chinese influence-

We soon led a procession-

and we were honoured with a fly past-

 

[drron]

Then there were those cliffs again-

Had to take that one as Stefan became part of our trivia team.Here he is with our surrogate grandson-

In 2 days time these 2 will play an important part of this story.
Tuesday and a sea day.Was to be the Zodiac regatta but conditions are miserable so it has been postponed 24 hours.The lectures continue to be very good.Enjoyed Roddy talking about the Great Bantu migration.

The meals continue to please with all meat and fish meals coming as ordered and exactly how they should be cooked.The beef is particularly tender and flavoursome.
But then it was sunset time-

That night's sunset was one of the best we saw so prepare to be bored-

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It just kept getting better-

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Wednesday and another sea day.Go to Conrad's lecture about the Explorer and he comments on proposed itineraries for 2015.We really like the idea of a couple so put down a floating deposit.Now just have to wait until the itineraries are firmed up and released.Those of you that would like to experience an expedition cruise in Australian waters make sure you keep a close eye on Silverseas.
An interesting lecture from Stefan about volcanoes and then at 4pm we stop and this happens-

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Be sure to tune in for the next exciting episode.

 

[drron]

So the big moment has arrived.The World championship zodiac paddling series.Excuse the hyperbole.Here is the"family",our team.

Mrsdrron was the team photographer.Our secret weapon was Stefan from the Expedition crew.We also had Franklin the Financial Officer whose input was invaluable.
Stefan was the supreme strategist.We asked if we should get more team members but he was steadfast that we only needed 6-much more likely to be coordinated and less likely to get paddles clashing with a smaller number.He also positioned us perfectly.Here he is giving us our pre race instructions-

Our other advantage was that we had a coxswain,young Nic, beating on a metal plate cover with a serving spoon giving us much better coordination.
So here we go paddling out for the first heat.As luck would have it we drew the other Australian team in the first heat.This turned out to be our closest race-

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We were able to have a rest before coming up against the team who should have been favourites-the deck crew.But then Franklin earned his stripes at the starting line,leaning over and saying-'if you win there is no overtime".We won easily.

So to the final and we were up against the best dressed team-the Yellow Submarines.Not really a great name for a zodiac race.Here we are at the start.We got a better start and we are the crew paddling in a straight line-

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Nearly there but a little anxiety-

Then the moment of victory-

Of course we let out the cry-"Aussie,Aussie,Aussie.Oi,Oi,Oi."
Back to the ship and I did my best Freddie Mercury impression with-

But it's been no bed of roses
No pleasure cruise -
I consider it a challenge before the whole human race -
And I ain't gonna lose -

We are the champions - my friends
And we'll keep on fighting - till the end -
We are the champions -
We are the champions
No time for losers
'Cause we are the champions - of the world

Yes us Aussies are competitive.

Problem is I haven't been able to get that song out of my head ever since.

 

[drron]

After all that excitement we were having a few quiet drinks on the stern deck when this appeared off the Port side-

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It appeared that the expedition crew were having a crisis of identity-

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But some appeared to take regression too far-

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But it all fell into place with the Crossing of the Equator-

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I did save the best until last.Proof of how well the crew work together-

The ceremony was a scream.Actually a little let down when the frivolity ceased and we were presented with our prizes for our Herculean efforts-

 

[drron]

After that it was a quick shower,the briefing session and dinner before fatique set in and a deep sleep followed.
I awoke when we were anchored off Sao Tome-a nation I admit to not even knowing the existence off until we looked at this cruise.In fact it's full title is Sao Tome and Principe-the other major island which we will visit tomorrow.Looking out our doors this is what I could see-

It was different on the Starboard side-

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Once again there was a change of plans.Immigration was expected to come on board but as it was a zodiac to and from the wharf they decided to do a face to face check on the wharf.There was a birding tour that left first.2 of The Family were on this including our 9 year old.He got to the wharf and found he had been given his sister's passport-told to just line up.The officials looked at him then stamped the passport.The same happened when his sister presented his passport.

We were off on a bus tour of the Island.Stefan and photographer Ray were on our bus.Both I found were great.On the way to our first stop there was a reminder of the problems of Island life-

There are a few grand old Portugese buildings in the capital-

Many however are quite dilapidated.Outside the city most houses are of wood-

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The poverty is evident.most villages have a communal tap for their water supply.according to our local guide they are usually obtained as an election promise.One major difference to the West is that the promised item is supplied before the election.

Washing is still done in the streams-

 

[drron]

Dont know how the birding tour is going but we are seeing plenty-a hawk leaves it's nest-

Our first stop was at a cacao plantation.Obviously only a shadow of the place in Colonial times.We are greeted by lots of children.now we are told before we get off the bus not to give the children any sweets.Naturally not everyone listened.Within a couple of minutes anything handed out was in the hands of the largest boy and he only shared with a girl of roughly his age.The others were left in tears.

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the beans are sorted then dried-

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We attracted a lot of interest-

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the beans then undergo fermentation-

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The place is obviously running far below capacity-

We were told it is not used for anything else but there was this suspicious arrangement,pots with fire under them and lots of bagasse.methinks there maybe some firewater around-

 

[drron]

In another building Stefan found this wonder of German engineering-

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There were many overgrown tracks surrounding the buildings some of which were abandoned-

next to the plantation people were living in solid houses-quite possibly the slave quarters of early Portugese times-

Some had their own houses next to the plantation-

And there I found this little fellow-

So back in the bus and off to the next stop-a blowhole.Every stream we passed was standing room only-

The coastline was beautiful though the blowhole from above did not really look great-

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[drron]

But things changed when you climbed down.The locals were fishing quite successfully using bare hooks and some burley-

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And closeup the blow hole was much more spectacular-

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Whilst at the blow hole we were given a young coconut.Considering this is near the Equator and very humid this was much appreciated.

We were then off to our lunch destination.passed many little villages.housing was pretty standard-

 

[drron]

We then went past a slightly larger village with a larger stream.It seemed that every woman and baby was there-

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Looking upstream was no less crowded-

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When looking at that photo after taking it I noticed something at the top of the picture-

It still continues to amaze me what the locals carry on their heads-

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[drron]

We started back on our drive to the plantation lunch.We passed some locals getting their supply of palm oil-

We were a little early so went into the local village.School had just come out for lunch.our photographer Ray was popular-

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The young girl on the left was desperate to get her photo taken-

We ventured into the village "CBD".

Certainly fresh veggies available but the "supermarket"did appear a bit bare-

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A great variety of goods-

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But who wants their hair done here-

 

[drron]

The town had a Portugese square in the middle with well preserved buildings-

There was a small hospital-

But again it was the kids and their smiles you remember-

Then to the plantation for lunch.It was rundown but an older local businessman bought it and is restoring it as a tourist attraction.He is an artist and you can buy his works.The gallery is the old plantation owner's house-

It has magnificent views-

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An old water wheel still is there-

And the women still using any water available-

And then the plantation house where lunch is to be served-

 

[drron]

Before lunch we are treated to a special event.On the property are several of the slave quarters-

One end of one of the blocks has been refurbished.

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The owner provides local working mothers with a free pre-school and they sang for us-

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These little ones had no shoes but boy could they smile.I moved over to take a photo of the photographers.That caught these two and after that they imitated all my movements.I was at their mercy-

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We then went inside where they sang some more songs-one to the tune of the Yellow submarine.Then one of the American ladies got us to perform.She chose Wheels On the Bus which as a grandfather I knew well along with all the actions.I think the kids were amazed that we could do things just as they did.My heart was captured.

 

[drron]

Then it was time for lunch.A local meal.First a collection of local fruits with some marlin.The fried breadfruit was good but when boiled it had no taste.For mains a chicken calloolla stew with manioc,cassava and yams.I added some birds eye chillis which disguised the taste.It was reminiscent of the lunch we had in Grenada when we were on the Cloud-

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I washed it down with the local brew.It is no frills-

They had some of the old plantation kitchen-

Then there was some singing.Mrsdrron thought she would buy some dolls for our granddaughters but when the singing stopped they had gone-

The next stop was a fishing village.Definitely no super trawlers here-

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Some made good use of their time whilst others were more laid back-

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[drron]

It was hard to know what this fellow as all about.He asked everyone to take his photo-

One vessel though had been out fishing-

Alas there were no fish.There is no shortage of helpers though to get the canoe back up the beach using the old reliable method-

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Before rolling it up the beach they asked me if I wanted to go fishing-maybe they thought I would change their luck.However I am the world's worst fisherman so I declined.Necessity is the mother of invention.many of the young boys had these toy cars based on a plastic soft drink bottle-

Once again it was the kids who stole the show-

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Then it was off to the local market with a last look back to the fishing village-

 

[drron]

On our way to the markets we passed this statue-

We were told that it commemorated a sad day in Sao Tome's past.Research shows it was the Massacre of Batepa in 1953 when Portugese landowners and troops shot over 1000 local descendants of the slaves as they refused to work on the cacao plantations.As the total population was just 60000 at the time you can see it was horrendous.

But to the markets where it seemed most of the locals were that day-

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You could buy almost anything.Though most of the clothes and shoes were second hand and we were told donated by overseas charities-

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Plenty of local taxis-