Democratic People's Republic of Korea

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ermen

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Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Continued from http://www.australianfrequentflyer....nd-trip-photos/hkg-bkk-cmb-sin-hkg-42055.html

So I stopped at DDG on my mega itinerary above. I thought that my trip to the DPRK probably warranted a seperate post as I did not want to make it as frivolous as the previous thread. Also, I never made it to close to FNJ, so my itinerary is technically not very correct - kinda regret that now as would be awesome to do a TR on Air Koryo FNJ to SHE/PEK. :(

I do apologise for the less than perfect pictures and video cam images. I blame it on i) my bad photography skills (SWMBO constantly reminds me of it), ii) lack of adequate time to frame shots properly (many shots were on moving transport and / or sneaky-sneaky) and iii) my failure to read and digest the following material :lol:

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Prelude

The current consensus at least amongst the people I have spoken to (non authorities) suggests that the DPRK will be opening up like China over the next five years following the change in leadership. Obviously, remains pure specualation but it was interesting to note that even the restrictions on movement on our hotel grounds were apparently more relaxed than before.

Our hotel was situated on an island in the middle of the Taedong River. We were told that previously, hotel guests were not allowed outside the main lobby of the hotel unsupervised, whereas, now, the restriction was relaxed to the entire island (i.e. just do not leave the island unsupervised). Note that this anecdote was relayed by our Chinese tour guide (as opposed to the DPRK ones) but I have not managed to verify it.

On the ethics of visiting the DPRK, I may address this in a different post at the end but I respect the differing schools of thought out there.

Finally, just a note on the North Korean tour group. I joined a Chinese tour that departed from Dandong though requested for an English speaking Korean guide. Now, one may or may not have had an experience with travelling with "Chinese" tour groups (I inadvertently booked myself onto one on a tour from NYC to D.C. last year - experience was not the best due to what we in the West may term "backward" behaviour). In this instance however, I was pleasantly surprised at my whole tour experience and thought that the dynamics of this tour group were very good (and far exceed my expectations). On hindsight, I realised that our mainland Chinese travelling companions on this tour was different from the stereotype - simply because they were of a different demographic - more sophisticated and intellectually curious than the stereotype. Very interesting bunch of people to hang out with for four days!:eek: Our group consisted of around 30 travellers (~75% local Chinese and ~25% foreigners) and local and foreigner all got along relatively well (at least we the younger crowd were hanging out together :lol:).

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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

DDG // DPRK

Short taxi ride from our hotel to our tour agency (taxis are hard to hail in DDG for some reason), and then a walk across to the Chinese checkpoint at around 10am. Fifteen minute wait whilst our Chinese tour guide briefed us on North Korea. Things that were mentioned:
  • No English literature - will get confiscated
  • No laptops and mobile phones - if the guards take a fancy to it, they may just confiscate it
  • Cameras are ok but no pictures on the train
  • Please be aware that North Korea is not as free as China where you can do whatever you want (ironic I thought)
  • Don't act suspicious when your bags are checked - offer them up freely

More telling was her mentioning the power shortages in North Korea - apparently, there is a risk that our train may be stuck due to the lack of electricity. She also mentioned the fact that the DPRK was experiencing one of its worst floods in many years and bits of rail and road were damaged - on her last tour, her train only arrived into Pyongyang at 3am (scheduled 5pm).

Question from tourist: Why don't we take a bus if the track is damaged?
Answer: Road will take just as long as many parts are mud road with huge detours due to tourist restrictions

Great I thought - didn't think I was signing up for something so rugged! :shock: And somehow, the thought of being stuck for more than 10 hours on a train, in the DPRK and without the F lounge... that didn't quite seem so appealing :!:

Anyway, time to depart for the DPRK! Queued up at Chinese border control at Dandong which was fairly efficient. Noticed that there were actually North Korean passport holders on the other side waiting to be admitted into Dandong!

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Hopped onto a bus that would shuttle us over the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge. Note the broken bridge below - broken because the Americans bombed the North Korean part during the Korean war. Past that, and we were officially into North Korea! Going further down the bridge, I spot a children's playground on DPRK soil. I wonder whether it is really used? :confused:

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At the end of the bridge was the North Korean town of Sinuiju and this was where customs was. Obviously no photos allowed and I did not risk it. Needed to get back to China safely to write this trip report. :lol:

Lost an hour as Korean time was 1 hour ahead of China. Guards looked through my bag and found an English newspaper which I had forgotten to remove from my bag from my time in SIN. :shock: Would they confiscate it? Well he had a flip through it and found it ok - probably due to more the fact that there was more Asian, less Western faces in it. :cool: Reboarded our bus and waited somemore. But no movement and no airconditioning! Well, at least not as bad as being stuck on a tarmac I suppose as we could get out of the bus for some fresh air - downside was that there was nobody serving you another glass of that pre-departure drink in J. :p Tourist commented that it reminded him of his childhood when he went into communist Europe - border crossings were a hit and miss affair with frequent delays and nobody ever knowing the reason why!

We later found out that customs had forgotten to stamp some papers - hence the delay. Saw a Lexus with a North Korean number plate pulling up, with a man and his Gucci handbag carrying wife coming out . Probably an elite going into China I thought. Such is life.

Immigration issue sorted in about 30 mins and our bus made its merry way to Sinuiju train station which was 5 minutes away. Train ride to Pyongyang was supposedly around 5 hours, though was not too sure after our "briefing" by our Chinese guide.

First impressions of North Korea was that buildings were old and run-down. And with not a lot of traffic!
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

I have been looking forward to this report. Thanks for sharing.
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Ditto, cant wait to hear about DRPK!
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

I have been looking forward to this report. Thanks for sharing.

Ditto.
Been idly pondering the chances of getting an extended Leave Pass from MrsTheEmu to expand the (still) proposed (permission pending) Harbin trip with JuniorEmu1 and sneak over for a peek at DPRK.
So write on, ermen! :p
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Ditto.
Been idly pondering the chances of getting an extended Leave Pass from MrsTheEmu to expand the (still) proposed (permission pending) Harbin trip with JuniorEmu1 and sneak over for a peek at DPRK.
So write on, ermen! :p

Would like to go to Harbin too. Never been but heard very interesting things about that place!
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

At immigration, we were met by two North Korean ladies who I would find out were our minders for our train ride from Sinuiju to Pyonyang. Reached Sinuiju train station in 5 minutes and had to walk through an underpass to get to our train platform. Underpass was damp, not lit and smelled of amonia for some reason. :shock: Train station was definitely not disabled-friendly as we had to carry our luggage up and down flights of stairs - regretted bringing a rollaboard and not a backpack!

Got to the platform and found our train waiting for us. Apparently we were in for a treat - we were getting an "air-conditioned" six seater carriage! To our chagrin, we found out that the "air-condition" seemed to be rather temperamental - and worked in bits and spurts - not the most ideal in a hot train carriage! On the bright side, the weather was holding up, after the terrible floods that had hit the country in the preceding weeks before.

Train from Sinuiju to Pyongyang was around 220km from memory and due to take around 5 hours! Advantage of train travel versus flying is that this would take us through beautiful North Korean countryside! We passed through many small towns / villages and got to see many locals close up, and children playing in the crop fields and rivers. Many were actually very friendly and smiled / waved back at the us as we passed!


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[video=youtube;xmI7LA3OJnU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmI7LA3OJnU&feature=plcp[/video]
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Excellent report on DPRK. Looking forward to reading the rest.
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Halfway through the journey, the train pulled into a station... and stopped. We waited, waited and waited somemore without any sign of movement. Air-condition did not work and we were stuck in a train carriage in the sweltering North Korean summer. :shock: What was going on we thought? Nobody knew - or rather nobody seemed to communicate it to us. Was getting worried that we were experiencing one of the infamous power failures in the DPRK! How long would we be stuck there? Heat was unbearable and made the decision to change out of my jeans into boardies. :oops:

In the end, found out that the reason for the delay was due to track work down the line. Apparently the track had been damaged but the train had previously risked the journey on its way in from Pyongyang as did not have passengers - now, with passengers, the risk was too great to take. :shock: Finally, after a delay of approximately two hours, the train got moving again! :lol: Thankfully, there was not a lot of other hiccups along the way into Pyongyang, apart from the filthy train toilets. :(

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Reached the outskirts of Pyongyang at close to 7pm. Geeted by the unmistakable Ryugyong Hotel in the skyline which had already been mentioned by someone in this thread. That structure was huge and I thought that it was as tall / or close to the International Commerce Centre building in Hong Kong! Finally reached Pyongyang Station sat around quarter past seven, a two hour delay.

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Again, Pyongyang station was not very disabled friendly. Walked through another dark and damp underpass (must be a feature of DPRK train stations!) which took us outside the station terminal where our bus was waiting to send us to our hotel. This time we were met by an elegant, Burberry carrying North Korean tour guide. Definitely an elite I thought. :shock:
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Found out that we were staying at the Yanggakdo Hotel which was #2 on Trip Advisor! :lol: Not too shabby but very old school. Located in the middle of an island on the Taedong River -probably to keep unwanted foreigners out I thought. Reminded me of the movie The Rock.

Ushered into the dining room for dinner which had a mural of some scenic Korean mountain. Food was actually quite good! Served a communal plate of fried donuts, rice, chicken, kimchi, fish and meatballs. Their Taedonggang Beer - was not too bad at all too! :lol:

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After dinner we got allocated our rooms which were basic though clean and functional.

Check out the radio console between the beds - haven't seen them in hotels since the 1990s! Theory amongst some of our travellers was that it housed secret listening equipment. :shock: Who knows? :confused:

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More pictures of the hotel and views from our room / floor the next morning (note again how the corridor is not lit at all)
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You can make out the Juche tower in the middle
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You can make out the unfinished Ryugyong Hotel and the other Koryo Hotel (with the twin peaks) in the background
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

The next day, we were due to visit the DMZ. Visited the North Korea Peace Museum located in Panmunjom, a village approximately 2.5 hours drive from Pyongyang on the "Reunification Highway". The Peace Museum is only accessible from the North and was where the armistice agreement was signed, signallying the end of hostilities on the Korean peninsula.

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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Really enjoying this. I'll probably never get the chance to visit North Korea and my only "experience" is through the media. Seeing someone's first hand photos and account is something I thought I'd never see. Many thanks.
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

We were then bused around 3 minutes or so to the Joint Security Area. The far end is South Korea and the concrete slab which you can make out between the blue houses marks the military demarkation line between North and South. The blue houses straddle the border and is the only place where you can technically walk freely between North and South. It also served as convenient conference rooms where negotiations could take place. Was actually pretty disapointed as did not see anyone from the South! Found out that they coordinate visitor timings so that North and South don't clash (i.e. when South visitors are there, the North soldiers disappear and vice versa)! Was begining to think that maybe hi viz clothing would actualy be very useful (i'm harmless - don't shoot!) :lol:

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In one of the blue houses with a North Korean soldier guarding the door at the far end to make sure that nobody makes a dash for the South!
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Some memorial written by Kim Il Sung just before he died - from what I recalled, had something to do with his hopes for the reunification of Korea.
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Left the DMZ thought managed to take a picture with a North Korean guard which was not that all difficult (begining to wonder if he really was a guard or just dressed up as one) :p Going on to the city of Kaesong, which was around 5km away.

You can just make out the flags of the South and North in the photos below at the DMZ.
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Kaesong was the capital of ancient Korea during the Koryo dynasty and was one of the regions where travellers from South Korean tourists could actually go visit. Unfortunately, that had been suspended after the escalation of tensions following the shooting of a South Korean tourist at a different tourist site. To be honest, Kaesong was rather forgettable for me and didn't really recall what I did there apart from lunch, visiting some museum and visiting the souvenir shop. :shock:

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Lunch was an assortment of pickles, vegetables and pickles and served in individual bronze tableware. And was quite delicious! :lol: Had the best ice cool beer as well on the trip (though don't know what brand it was and didn't manage to find it in Pyongyang anymore!)

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Overall, I found Kaesong to be quite run down compared to Pyongyang, though did retain a semi-rustic feel.
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Basin fitted without taps! Was a common sight in North Korean toilets due to the lack of plumbing / running water.
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Afternoon was spent touring Pyongyang. First stop - the USS Pueblo on the Taedong River. Background: Crew of this ship was accused of spying by North Korean forces and captured. Crew were held for some time before they were released after the U.S. signed an admission of guilt. Boat was never released however.

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Old school equipment!
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Bunk beds
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Confession document
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Bullet holes on the ship
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Shore of the Taedong River where the USS Pueblo is moored - you can see the May Day stadium in the background
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Next stop was Puhung station on the Pyongyang Metro - the world's deepest subway system! . And deep it was, as you can see from the rather boring video, it took a good 2 minutes to descent into the bowels of the station with revolutionary music playing in the background! :shock:

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[video=youtube;JWk8Luy6U_Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWk8Luy6U_Q&feature=plcp[/video]

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Not very bright in the train carriage with lighting probably reserved for the two Kims. There were locals onboard our carriage as well though they seemed to be annoyed that our tour group had suddenly broken the relative peace of their cabin. :lol: Thought lucky for them, was only a short 5 minute ride from Puhung to Yongwang Station.

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Entrance / exit to the subway
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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

It's funny how living in London now and being used to the Tube etiquette that it actually made me feel anxious seeing someone standing on the left!!
 
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