Idiots Guide to Japan - 1st Trip Report

[Noel Mugavin]

Having spent 8 weeks in the US and Canada during July/Aug/Sep, around November safe to say I had a bit of an itch to get away during my 6 week holiday over Christmas/New Year. Was looking at spending a week or so in Singapore in January, thought i'd have a look at cost of flights to Japan as well. Only $100 more than the cost to Singapore, $1100 return Perth - Tokyo, more research showed that hotels were quite inexpensive, so bit the bullet and booked for two weeks 11/1 - 25/1, flying Singapore Airlines. 1 day Tokyo, 2 days Osaka, 3 days Kyoto, 2 days Hiroshima, 6 days Tokyo.

Plans hit a bit of a snag late November when I injured my knee at work. Fortunately had purchased my Travel Insurance a couple of weeks earlier, so if trip was cancelled all good. The injury eventually led to surgery on the 23rd December, however both GP and surgeon assured me I would be fine to travel. I was sceptical, i'm a huge walker, and as it turns out I was right to be sceptical.

To the 11/1, another visit to the surgeon in the morning for a follow up after the operation, about 80 seconds well spent. Thankfully covered by workers compensation. Again he assured me all would be fine. Out to the International Terminal, or Terminal 1 as we now have to call it, and I was soon on my way to the first stop - Singapore. 1st time on Singapore, impressed with the comfort and leg room, service was great, food good, entertainment system so-so. Landed at Singapore, quick transfer to Terminal 3, couple of hours wait for next flight. Having read and heard about the cleanliness of Singapore, was a bit startled to see a large bugs in all the urinals. Closer inspection unveiled a rather clever aiming device.

Next flight overnight to Haneda. Can never sleep on planes, so planned to watch Black Mass. Unfortunately film froze, so ended up watching Everest and The Gift. Landed in Haneda, about a 15 minute walk to immigration. It was at this stage that I realized I was in a bit of trouble with the knee, painful and hobbling very slowly, but put it down to sitting for so long.

Quickly through immigration, 2 minute wait for bags and straight through customs. Suica Card machine to the left, easily purchased one of those, then up the escalator and on to the monorail in less than about 3 minutes. Quite impressed with how easy I was able to transfer at Hanamatsucho to Tokyo Station, not so impressed with the rain and cold. Quick stop at the Police box, and after a little confusion whether I was being invited in or not, the kindly Policeman directed me to my hotel, APA Ginza. Too early to check in, however dropped my bags, grabbed my beanie and jacket, gave a couple of Cherry Ripes I had in my backpack to the appreciative receptionists, and out I went to explore.

Trying to add photos, but as per the title, not having much luck.

 

[love_the_life]

Tagging along for the ride. Hope the knee settled for you.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 2

It was about 7.30am when I left the hotel, intending to take some photos of the Tokyo Station facade, walk around and get photos of the Imperial Palace Gardens, and organise seats and activate my JR Pass for the following day. My photography plans took a bit of a hit with the work being done to the outside of the station, and white partition board up and making it difficult to get decent shots. Off to the Palace, drizzling rain and the knee throbbing. Safe to say I didn't last too long, and soon enough headed to the indoors of Tokyo Station.

In my numerous travel site browsing prior to my departure, had read multiple comments that there are few places to sit in Japan, and unfortunately was finding this to be true. I then committed an early sin in my trip, one which I swore to myself I wouldn't do, and found myself sitting in a Starbucks close to my Ginza hotel. I had to take some time off my feet to regroup and rethink my day's strategy.

After taking a long time over my coffee, I headed back to the station, found the JR counter and set about organising my JR Pass and the next day's seat. After asking the gentleman serving me if he spoke English, he replied with 'a little', the pass was activated and I requested a window seat for the 8.03 to Shin-Osaka for the next day. Unfortunately the train was sold out, so requested the 8.33, no dramas, and a window seat to sight and photograph Fuji as well.

Another walk to the Kyobashi Station, where on the way I realised the Toyota Crown is the backbone of the Tokyo taxi industry, and was soon on the way to Asakusa via the Ginza line. Out of the Asakusa station, must say the stairs were taking a toll, and soon enough was at and photographing the Kaminariman at the head of Nakamise Street. Quick bite to eat of a steamed pork bun, fortunately I pointed to the right one and didn't get a seasoned Cod Roe bun, and walked down Nakamise to Senso-ji. More photos, and then off to Kappabashi.

A few metres down Kappabashi-dori and I hit the wall with the knee. Enough was enough, back to the hotel and get off the leg and have a snooze. Walked back to Asakusa station, quick snap of the Sky Tower and the Golden Turd, and back on the train to the hotel. Glanced at my map while travelling, and noticed Akihabara was on the way. I needed a 3 prong adaptor for the laptop, and thought surely would be able to find one here. About 30 minutes of unsuccessful searching, and I had definately run my race with the leg.

Got back to the hotel at about 1.15pm, and here is where the Japanese efficiency and being sticklers for rules payed against me. Early check in, so had to pay an extra 2000 yen. Room was ready, so no dramas with it having to be cleaned or anything else, but still the extra charge. No complaint from me, as I love trains etc being there when they say they will be, but interesting when it affects you in a negative way.

Had a shower, noticed the knee was now a bowling ball, and had a few hours sleep. I purchased a sim card through the same site I ordered my JR Pass from, but due to me being a technological fool couldn't get it to activate on my phone. Not one to really give a hoot if I had mobile internet access or not, the sim card and phone went back into the depths of my bag, not to be seen again until my return to Perth.

Headed out to Bic camera in Ginza, quickly able to pick up an adaptor, then on the search for something to eat. Sighted pictures of food that looked good outside a few places, but not being an adventurous eater and no English menus in sight, I eventually settled for a convenience store sandwich, which was extremely good. Also managed to pick up a cup of ice which went on to the knee back at the hotel.

Tomorrow, on the Shinkansen and off to Osaka.

*Still unable to add photos. Using basic uploader to upload jpegs from My Pictures. Choose files, then press Upload Files, about a minute message comes up 'Upload of file failed' Can anyone please help?

 

[clazman]

Would suggest files are to large ....

 

[Cossie]

Would suggest files are to large ....

That was my initial thought as well. If using winoze, "the snipping tool" under programmes, then windoze accessories is very useful for taking screen shots or greatly reducing the kb size of a photo. Dimensions stay the same.

Good luck with the knee, it can't be easy!

 

[irv]

How opportune, just planning our first trip there. Will follow with interest.

 

[love_the_life]

Think you will need to reduce your file sizes of the photos taken with your camera. As they are saved on your laptop this should be pretty straightforward, depending on what program you use. I've a Macbook Air and I usually import photos to iPhoto then export them to the desktop as a smaller file if I want to upload them to anything.
Keen to see some pics

 

[irv]

I use Irfanview to resize, quick and simple, usually 800*600

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Thanks all, will have a crack over the weekend

 

[scaredeycat]

The words paint pretty good pictures to which I can relate.
The "golden turd" - LOL.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 3
Quick check out and off to Tokyo Station. left plenty of time, again having read that can be a bit confusing finding right entry and platform. No problems with that however, plenty of easy to follow large signage, so left plenty of time to people watch.

Train came into the station and the pink uniformed cleaning ladies went to work. Time to board soon enough, and was the I realized I had a window seat, but unfortunately also had the bulkhead at the front of the train, and not a hell of a lot of leg room. Was going to be a tough test for the knee.
After about an hour Fuji came into view, able to get some snaps. Would have loved to have taken the one everyone relates to Japan, Shinkansen going over the bridge, with Fuji in the background. Fuji had passed out of view, and having thought we were on the closest bridge, the camera went away. You guessed it, the photo opportunity appeared about a minute later, opportunity missed by my idiocy.


My seatmate soon got off and I was able to stretch my legs out a bit over the two seats which gave a bit of relief. Soon enough arrived at Shin-Osaka, and was ale to head to my hotel, New Osaka Hotel, which is about 50m from the station. Too early to check in, so left my bags and out I went back to the station to get to Osaka Castle.

A quick train ride including a transfer, and was soon at the castle. A few food stalls then a walk up a ramp to the castle where there were more food stalls and some performers, artists and plenty of souvenier shops. My plan was to climb to the top of the castle, but unfortunately wasn't going to happen. Settled for a sit down, some more people watching and some Japanese fried chicken.




The knee was giving me a huge amount of grief, but wanted to get to Shinsekai and up the Tsutenkaku Tower. Again a couple of train rides and I was there. Unfortunately I was in the mindset that I just wanted to get off my feet and get a bit of relief, so a couple of quick photos, didn't bother going up the tower, and back on the train back to the hotel.


Back to the hotel for check in, given my key, and sent on my way. Mentioned to the receptionist I had a bag here. Reply 'In your room'. Another example of wonderful Japanese service. Up to the room, had a rest for a couple of hours, before heading out to Namba and Dotombori. Was about 6.00pm, and platform was crowded, with the white gloved conductors poised to cram as many people onto the carriages as possible. A let a couple of trains go by, not a huge fan of crowded places, and my patience paid off with an empty train pulling up. Off at Namba, rain falling and off I set to explore. picked up a hot custard filled pastry from a street stall, was superb. Unfortunately I didin't last long as was not moving freely nor quickly and off I went back to the hotel.


Was at this stage that I was having serious thought about heading back home, not being able to get around or do things that I wanted to was having a really negative effect on me. I had anti-inflammatories with me from when I first had my injury, but having taken blood thinners for the travel wasn't sure whether to take them as well. Messaged a physio friend of mine to ask some advice, his words were see a doctor. Fair enough. Went on to Singapore airlines website to see if I could change flights, unfortunately unable to do so as I had already been on a flight on that ticket. Website said had to go to an office to have the ticket changed, that was enough to put me off changing the ticket, so I went to bed ready for another crack the next day.

 

[love_the_life]

Knee sounds like it was giving you huge grief which is a real shame. Loving the photos - glad you are able to post them now.
The photo of Mt Fuji is pretty spectacular!

 

[irv]

Day 3
Quick check out and off to Tokyo Station. left plenty of time, again having read that can be a bit confusing finding right entry and platform. No problems with that however, plenty of easy to follow large signage, so left plenty of time to people watch.

Train came into the station and the pink uniformed cleaning ladies went to work. Time to board soon enough, and was the I realized I had a window seat, but unfortunately also had the bulkhead at the front of the train, and not a hell of a lot of leg room. Was going to be a tough test for the knee.
After about an hour Fuji came into view, able to get some snaps. Would have loved to have taken the one everyone relates to Japan, Shinkansen going over the bridge, with Fuji in the background. Fuji had passed out of view, and having thought we were on the closest bridge, the camera went away. You guessed it, the photo opportunity appeared about a minute later, opportunity missed by my idiocy.
View attachment 66124

Nice photo, I think how often I have done a similar thing, then the shot is gone. Good excuse to go back because next time you know what to expect.

The knee sounds a bit of an issue and like you said a dampener, and being pre trip insurance cover may have been an issue.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 4

During the planning stage of my trip I intended to use this day to go to Universal Studios. Reports of large crowds were putting me off a bit, until my injury made the decision for me not to go. As an alternative I planned to go to Kobe, travel on the Ropeway, have a Kobe Beef lunch at Moriya, visit Harbour Land and the Earthquake Museum, then head to Nada and visit some Sake Breweries.

Early riser, so headed down to Kobe quite early, so early in fact that I had to wait about an hour for the ropeway to open. Up the top and having a bit of look around wind chill was a little unpleasant. Started to walk down the trail, however after about 10 steps realized it wouldn't be such a good idea, so back to the ropeway station and headed to the middle stop. Took about 15 minutes at a little garden here to have bit of a rest and some quite contemplation.


Down to the bottom of the ropeway and to Shin Kobe and train to Kobe centre. Walked around for about 15 minutes trying to remember where the restaurant was. Eventually found an information kiosk, where the friendly assistant gave me simple directions. Turned out I was about a block off. Also, I was in a lot of pain at this stage.


I hadn't made a reservation at Moriya, however this wasn't an issue, as I was directed upstairs (thanks for that!), and soon had my chef approach, show me my steak and ask how I would like it cooked. Corn soup, salad, green tea, strange tasting bread, and my 150g steak, and entertainment for the serving staff as I chased my steak around the plate with the chopsticks, all for just under $150AUS. Very nice tasting steak, would I pay for it again? Probably not.


Set off for the next stage of my day, and quickly realized it wasn't going to happen. Made the decision that I needed to get back to the hotel to once again take the weight off my leg and rest up. Was during the train ride back to Osaka that I gain made the decision that this was not an enjoyable way to travel and I was going to organise to get back to Perth.

Back at the hotel, checked out where the Singapore Airlines office was in Osaka, and to my great surprise, I actually found the building when I travelled to the Umeda District. However, the Singapore Airlines office was no longer located there. Plan 2, tour around Osaka for a little longer, when I get back to the hotel find flights on other airlines back home.

Travelled to Tempozan District, unfortunately the Aquarium and Ferris Wheel were both closed.


Headed back to Namba and the Dotonbori District. Lasted about 20 minutes before enough was enough and headed back to the hotel once again. On holiday, and back in the hotel at 6.00pm isn't what was planned, so was keen to get some flights sorted. Japan airlines, ANA Singapore could all get me to Singapore for over $1000 each, however nothing was available to Perth from Singapore until quite close to my existing flight. Price was getting a bit out of hand if I was to fly to the Eastern Seaboard, and in the end made the decision to chuck some anti-inflammatories down, hope for the best, and make the most of the time I had in Japan.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 5

Checked out of the Osaka hotel, then on to the quick train ride to Kyoto. Found the hotel quite easily, Schmeid Nishinotoin, fella at reception gave me my key so I could get in to the room later in the day, left my bags and back I went to Kyoto station to get to Nijo Castle.

Exchanged shoes for slippers to tour the inside, worked in my favour as I was able to slide along rather than step, nightingale floors were an extraordinary feature. Didn't take very long to get through the building, then went out ot explore the gardens, and the castle area itself. A group of Japanese school kids were walking the gardens as well, a small group came over and asked if they could practice their English with me. No worries, a few oohs and ahhs from them when I told them I was a teacher. (Don't be concerned, not an English teacher)
'Where from?'
'Australia'
'Kangaroo'
'Yeah that's right, kangaroo'


Set off to Arashiyama, able to use my JR pass on the local line. Short walk from the station down to the river, monkey park seemed a bit out of my reach, and beyond my limits of effort. After taking some photos of the river, headed up to the Bamboo Grove. The walk was quite crowded, but able to get some decent shots when there was bit of a gap in the traffic.


Soon enough, the knee said time to get some rest. Had been a big improvement on previous days, so thumbs up to keeping the pill popping regime going. Arrived back at Kyoto station and decided to head up the escalators to the top off the building. Well worth it for the views over Kyoto, and also for the views of the inside of the station. The headed down to the basement of Isetan for some food samples and a bit of a look around. I eventually headed back to the hotel, bags had again been taken to my room, and gave the legs a reprieve for a couple of hours. I did see a reflection of myself in a store window on my walk back to the hotel, and was then that I understand the Japanese kid's surprise when I told them I was a teacher. Hadn't shaved for a few weeks, beanie on, big jacket on, walking with a limp, resembled any homeless person on any street in any city. Was just missing a shopping trolley full of my worldly goods.

Around 6 o'clock headed out with the intention of having a walk through Nishiki market and the Gion area. Did both if these, a few food samples here and there, before again needed to get off the feet.

Back at Kyoto station headed down to a curry restaurant I spotted in the basement of Isetan early in the day, and had a decent pork cutlet curry. Short walk back to the hotel, and the day was done.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 6

Woke up with again feeling an improvement with the leg, and was able to use my JR Pass to get to Inari Station, and the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Cross the road running parallel to the station and you are right at the entrance. Walked to about halfway up the hill, a slow pace but not feeling too bad, however remembered back to the Everest film and the importance of knowing your limits and when to turn back. Walking uphill was a lot easier than going downhill, so turned back and walked down a road to the right of the shrine filled with street stalls. Found another hot custard pastry and also tried some soy balls.

Back to Inari station, one stop then on to the Keihan line to try my luck at reaching Ginkakuji Temple. Walked for about 15 minutes then found an employee in a 7/11 who gave me directions, and again was on my way. Another 10 minutes, and starting to feel the effort, stopped a lady in the street, who simply said too far to walk. Good enough for me, turned back for the long walk back to the train station, and back to Kyoto station.

Found a nice coffee shop at the edge of the station, nice coffee and sandwich, avoided the chocolate sandwich, and the strawberry cream sandwich, and headed back to the hotel to do some washing.

My hotel room was equipped with a washer and a drying room. Couple of hours for washing and then I was planning on again heading to Gion for some dinner and a bit of exploring. Every piece of clothing went in to the washing machine, cranked the split system heating up and settled in to a bit of a nap. Woke up to crank up the drying room, and soon discovered this was going to be a long process. Blowing out cold air, I transferred some clothes to under the air con, which was a much more efficient drying mechanism than the drying room. Without any dry clothes, my plans for the evening were thrown out the door.

 

[love_the_life]

I suppose the lesson to be learnt is not to wash everything at the same time

 

[Fiches Mouser]

Real shame about your knee! Loving the read but hope it didn't totally ruin your trip.

Looks like you saw some really beautiful spots. The Arashiyama forest is pretty cool.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 7

After an easy day yesterday, again felt an improvement in the knee. Headed off to Kinkajuji, not knowing 100% how I would get there from the train station in the area. Not to worry, as through the station gates was a sign directing you to 'bus for Kinkajuji'. Bus stop over the road at at the bottom of a slight incline, and able to use my Suica card as well. Ticket was a souvenir in itself, more a parchment paper than a simple piece of paper.


Short walk around a couple of corners, and then wow! Seen many photos, took many photos, but don't think any can do it justice. Bright clear day, was just magical.

Brought some boxes of Nama Yatsuhashi for the siblings and in laws at a small stall just inside the temple ground. Outside of the grounds was just about force fed a matcha sweet from an old lady in a little store on the way to the bus stop.

Back on the bus then to the train station, then off to once again explore the Gion area. Walked through to the Yasaka shrine, through Maruyama Park, and then more wandering of the streets.


Stopped at Higashi Hangani Temple before heading back to the hotel reception to pick up my bags. Once again the Japanese service impressed, signs in the room saying if leaving the hotel early leave your bags in the room, they will be in reception when you come back. Bags were waiting and a friendly message from the receptionist at the hotel.

As always arrived way too early for my train, had a coffee and a bit of people watching. Quick trip to Shin Osaka, and about a 25 minute wait for the Sakura service stopping at Hiroshima. Thought that I had mistakenly boarded the Green Car as seats were 2 by 2 and more like lounge chairs than the trains I had previously been on. Conductor came through, checked my ticket and all good.

Arrived in Hiroshima at about 6, and met with heavy rain. Short cab ride to the Sunroute Hotel, added bonus of a view of the A Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park. Headed out for a walk around the park, but rain too heavy to continue. Found a little restaurant around the corner from the hotel where I had my first taste of Okonomiyaki. Very nice,very filling and very kind on the hip pocket.


Back to the hotel for another early night, another bonus Valkyrie was on in English, with Japanese subtitles. Good way to finish the day.

 

[moa999]

Good to see you got the buses to Kinkajuji (and stunning picture).. it really does glow on a good day.. Was going to say that there are other buses to many of the sites around Kyoto but seems you have moved on.
In Hiromshima the tram system is good.

The Okonomiyaki are definitely good value - there is a building up near the station where one floor must contain about 50 restaurants - all doing Okonomiyaki.

Assume Itsukushima Shrine might be on the menu for tomorrow - it is fairly accessible with rail and ferry without too much walking (and is flat).
Note that it is a bit of a hike to the base of the cable car (do it from near the restaurants) but the view from the top station (without doing the climb) is still good.


Are you still trying to get back early or going to push on??