Sri Lankan Getaway - March 2016

[Milboo]

A week or so out from the date of my booked leave, I had no travel booked after an original trip was rescheduled (tacked on end of work trip) and was struggling to make a decision on where to go!

Thanks to a suggestion here, Sri Lanka popped on to the radar and once I used my magic google search phrase of "luxury hotels Sri Lanka", I was sold! This is despite it never having been even on the list of countries that maybe I want to visit.

I started drafting this while sitting in a bungalow at the Castlereagh Reservoir in the heart of tea country. My musing were as follows: We are having a pleasant afternoon shower but it is not cold, I have just finished having a massage and a lovely man who is one of the house butlers just bought me a gin and tonic and warm cashew nuts mixed with fried tea leaves. I think they will need to drag me kicking and screaming from this place tomorrow!

But anyway...on to the trip report which is not real time unfortunately as a) I was a little too relaxed and b) loading photos is a pain!

Flew on SQ from SYD to SIN on the A380. Took advantage of a offer to upgrade to PE for a very small amount. I shared more detailed thoughts on the flight in the SQ Thread so cut and paste to here:


Have just flown in the new SQ PE.

It is a nice size cabin laid out 2 -4 - 2. If you like window seats then it pays to note that there is a large gap between the seat and the window, meaning no leaning.

IFE is massive - 13.3 inches I think I read and HD. Best screen I've experienced but not touch screen which you instinctively go to do.

Active noise cancelling head phones were provided and did the job.

I don't like the placement of the cabin on the A380 though. It's behind the galley behind Suites and in front of Y. This means no dedicated bathroom and having to move back through the first Y cabin.

Also - it's smack bang on top of the bassinet row in Y so stick to the first 2-3 rows for minimum noise. We had 3 screaming babies so considerable noise.

Food - did not use Book the Cook and lunch was an enjoyable pad Thai and usual ice cream. I was a little disappointed as I thought the food offering was a little lackluster. I asked for a snack at some point and only offering was nuts.

Was provided an amenity kit that contained socks and a toothbrush - a bit of a why bother to be honest.

Now the seat - nice size, liked the footrest and leg rest and storage. Did I enjoy sitting in the seat for 7.5 hours - no! I found it hard going on my back.

Had 5 hours in SIN. The KrisFlyer Gold Lounge in T3 is incredibly ordinary and the food offering awful. Killed some time having a massage and shower in the Transit lounge. After meeting up with my friend, we went to T2 and the lounge there is just as woeful.

Connected to SQ 468 to Colombo which has an arrival time of midnight - so pushing 5.30am Sydney time. Very uneventful flight with most people crashing out and flight time of only 3.5 hours. Food was very ordinary and predominantly seafood based - did not touch it.

Duty free on arrivals was interesting - a hall full of Whitegoods!

Hit a short delay getting through Immigration as their computers went down but otherwise it was an easy passage through from plane to being spat out in arrivals hall. We did do the recommended stop and get cash from the ATM just before we exited - and at that point realising neither of us had noted the exchange rate so took a stab at what to withdraw!

Promise the rest will have photos in them.

 

[Milboo]

We had arranged a driver for the whole week so he collected us and dropped us at our hotel - Cinnamon Grand - in Colombo.

He had said the drive would be 40 mins but on relatively empty roads it was only about 25 mins. We were randomly stopped by a police officer (it now being about 1.30am CMB time) who wanted to see my passport but no attempt made to shake the driver down as his papers were in order.

In hindsight we should have stayed near the airport as we doubled back the next day - no idea why the agent suggested staying in Colombo.

Other tip before I forget it - if booking a car, ask what make/ model etc. We have an ordinary sedan which gets a bit uncomfortable after a couple of hours in it.

Hotel was lovely - part of a larger chain here but basically served as a pit stop to sleep and have breakfast.

Next morning our driver collected us and we drove to Cape Weligama - a Relais & Chateau property owned by the Dilmah family. We could have reached there in 90 mins on the freeway (a relatively new addition to the area) but we went down the coast - taking about 4 hours or so - as it was much more scenic.

It was a Saturday so a lot happening and a lot to watch as we drove through the sprawl of Colombo and then along a standard Lankan highway, sandwiched between buildings or buildings and the sea. It is hard to fathom that just 10 years ago, this area was devastated by the tsunami after the big earthquake (that also wiped out Banda Aceh).

Driving was fun as our driver played dodgems with tuk tuks, pedestrians, buses hurtling towards you or past you and motorbikes! Lots of horn beeping and organised chaos but it worked!

We stopped at a sea turtle conservation place and got to see baby turtles at 1, 2 and 3 days old as well as some older ones who cannot be returned to the sea - like albino ones and some missing limbs after being caught in debris, especially post tsunami. It was an interesting experience.

(3 day old turtle to be released that night)


Tsunami victim

Memorial to locals from Japan for Tsunami victims

 

[Milboo]

We then made it to Cape Weligama in time for high tea.

This is a truly beautiful resort on the cliff top. Rooms are massive and well appointed and the grounds are lovely. It is quite spread out so a buggy can easily be called if you don't feel like walking up a hill in the heat.


Photo borrowed from web:

Meals with a view

Lower pool

Also the moon pool which is adults only - and perfect for relaxing in a massive day bed with a coughtail to watch the sunset

These guys are apparently good luck!

And it was hot - around 31 during the day and dropping only a few degrees at night and a very stifling heat.

Service is fantastic - on arrival, you are seated in a welcome area, cool towels bought, iced tea provided and a sorbet also given. You are introduced to your butler and escorted to your room after a brief tour of the grounds.

We stopped and had high tea on the way - which was included in our room rate along with our breakfast. They also do full board. It was simply relaxing to sit overlooking the bay.

Our room:

(Room had this much space again)

There was also a massive shower that double as a steam room

Food there was outstanding. The chefs came and spoke with you and invited you to ask for anything at all that you wanted and they would make it. A couple we spoke with wanted seafood and Sri Lankan flavours and they were delivered a massive seafood platter of whole fish, prawns, slipper lobster, crab, chilli crab etc. Meanwhile I confined my request to some of their amazing tamarillo sorbet for breakfast!

This was a place where you simply felt chilled out and mellow without even thinking about it.

 

[Milboo]

We did 2 trips from Weligama - one day our driver took us into Galle Fort for a look around and so I could buy some Ceylon sapphire jewellery from a place I had been recommended. The Fort was lovely to walk around.

Many of these had fish or produce on them

Galle Fort

Local fish market - can't see the massive fish the guy had in front of him

Fort walls

Dutch Reform Church

 

[Milboo]

Surprisingly the lighthouse survived the tsunami but the Fort area did get damaged badly

We also did a boat trip on Koggala Lake which was a bit ordinary to be honest but we did get to see how cinnamon is made.

With a random mid ride trip for doctor fish - much to the screams of the Americans!

And heading back to the hotel

We had hoped to go whale watching from Mirassa but the whales had been MIA for a few days but apparently the viewing is normally great.


The hotel also has a beach club that arranges activities - many free of charge like surfing, kayaking, snorkelling, diving, bike rides.

So in summary - I highly recommend a stay here. Many people seemed to have this at the end of their trips but we needed to start here due to availability of rooms last minute.

Only gripe - not the quickest on emails - I am still trying to get a copy of an invoice 2 weeks after asking (twice).

 

[Milboo]

After leaving here after 3 nights we had a drive of about 3.5 hours to Yala National Park where we were staying at Cinnamon Wild. If anyone is looking to visit this area, then I would suggest Chena Huts or, in another 12 months, the same people with Cape Weligama (Resplendent Ceylon) will have opened their place.

Again the drive was on the typical Lankan highway and again a visual feast as this place is simply stunning, so much activity and so much colour everywhere.

One of many temples along the way - this one was especially about elephants. Disappointingly they had 2 elephants up the back chained front and back legs

A temple of the Tooth Relic from when it moved around the country - very old building - in Tissa

At Cinnamon Wild you stay in stand alone chalets spread out some distance in the jungle, alongside a lake with water buffalo and crocodiles in it!

Honestly it is a perfectly adequate hotel but we had been spoilt by our previous hotel. Service was a bit chaotic and while it was half board - getting breakfast and dinner, it was a buffet and the food average.

Yala is hot! 35 degrees during the day but dropping to mid 20s at night.

 

[Milboo]

We had booked a safari drive the next morning. We were collected from the hotel and hurtled down the road 10 mins to get parked up for about 40 mins while the drivers all go and buy the tickets. There would have easily been 50-70 jeeps. Then it is hell for leather to the park gates.

I had read that if you have been on safari in Africa then not to have high expectations for Yala and these are wise words. The scenery was lovely, we saw a number of animals and a single leopard in a tree (this is the world's largest leopard population), crammed in with about 12 other jeeps. We also saw 2 elephants. All the jeeps cram again into one spot for breakfast (hotel packs) on the beach - but no facilities.

Best view I got!

View from rest spot (which had been a resort before being destroyed in tsunami, killing a large group of Japanese tourists)

It was hot, long (5 hours) and quite rough. While we had a guide with us, due to the sheer volume of vehicles (many carrying only 2 people out of 6 seats), there is no tracking that goes on and it just felt like it was damaging for the habitat of the animals. We opted to cancel our evening drive.


Hotel has some resident langurs which made for some entertainment when in the pool!

We had 2 nights here and then were driven to tea country.

 

[bsb]

Great pics!

 

[kermatu]

Fantastic pics. This is now on my (ever-expanding) radar...

 

[Princess Fiona]

Brilliant TR
Shrek goes to Sri Lanka frequently for work and after seeing your pics I might just accompany him on one of these trips.

 

[k_sheep]

I'm going in December. Can't wait

Can you give any indication on prices?

 

[RB]

You have reminded me of the great time we had in Sri Lanka. We found some of the Yala drivers rather wild with their speed when heading home from the park but given the huge areas in the park didn't have particular concerns re destroying the habitat. We had a tracker with us.
This is a Yala photo by our driver

 

[Milboo]

I'm going in December. Can't wait

Can you give any indication on prices?

For anything in particular?

 

[Milboo]

We had been pre warned that the drive from the coast up to tea country was around 6-7 hours as roads can be busy, are narrow and windy etc. Many people instead catch the Cinnamon Air flights - float plane that lands on Castlereagh Reservoir for around $600 a seat.

Our driver told us he knew a back way which would take less than 5 hours but the roads were not the best. We chose this option and I popped a travel sickness tablet as a precaution! To be honest, I found the roads ok. Yes they were narrow and windy and yes it was always fun going around a blind corner and seeing a bus in front of you but the views made up for it!

Leaving the Indian Ocean, you then pass through rice paddies and then into agricultural land and village life

We then started climbing alongside Adam's Peak I believe. We headed through banana plantations, rubber plantations before getting into cloud forest and pine and gum trees before we headed over the ridge and rolled into tea country.

This was what the road was like a lot of the way once we started gaining altitude

And the all too common bus that has one speed - fast!

 

[Milboo]

Mid afternoon we turned off the main road and into the Dunkeld Tea Estate which would be home for the next 3 nights.

Which overlooks the picturesque Castlereagh Reservoir

The Dunkeld Bungalow is the 5th bungalow within the Ceylon Tea Trails family, owned by Resplendent Ceylon aka Dilmah family and are also Relais & Chateau. It only opened in February after the renovation.

The gardens in the other bungalows are beautiful and this one will be in time too.

The bungalow is set up with 4 rooms and then a large indoor dining room and some other shared spaces like a lounge area with big open fire. Meals were taken on the terrace and there was also some comfy couches - perfect for sitting with a book or an early morning tea. Dunkeld also has a separate 2 bedroom cottage 5 mins walk away.

Set just below the bungalow is a gorgeous infinity pool and jacuzzi.

All the rooms were different - 2 were garden suites with their own terrace area (we had 2 nights in one), the master suite which has its own lounge and then a master room, which we had for another night. The bathrooms were awesome too - massive baths, big showers etc - in the first room it was one of those amazing high backed ones and they offer a bath menu too.

But what makes this place amazing is the service. There is an executive chef and kitchen team, a head butler/ manager, 2-3 butlers, 3 housekeeping and a driver. Nothing is too much trouble - there is even a buzzer beside the bed so you can ask for bed tea in the morning.

On arrival the chef meets with you and asks about your dislikes, allergies etc and runs through what is on the menu for the rest of the day. If you don't like something, simply say and something else is planned instead. And the food was outstanding.

At dinner you were asked what fresh juice and fruit you wanted for the morning. You could wander out for breakfast at whatever time you wanted and within minutes, your juice and fruit appeared along with the pastry basket and a tea ordered placed. Then you could ask for whatever you felt like for a hot option, including Sri Lankan options like egg hoppers.

The chef would come and see you and take you through the lunch and dinner menu.

Lunch was always 3 courses but balanced, light and not large - always started with soup. One day it was a prawn salad and then a meringue. Again - eat when suits.

From 4-6pm high tea was served - gosh this quickly became a nice routine! Then dinner was any time up until about 9pm - always 4 courses with soup, started, main and dessert and then more tea!

Prior to dinner, you could make yourself comfortable in the lounge areas and within a minute you would be asked if you'd like a drink and warmed cashew nuts brought to you or other little nibbles. Any time during the day you could ask for anything you wanted - meaning no need for a mini bar.

The bungalows are all inclusive and this also includes activities. They have bikes available, you can kayak, they have marked walking trails between the bungalows and also include a tea tour.

 

[Milboo]

The Dunkeld Tea Factory was a 10 minute walk down hill from us and all the bungalows meet there for the tour. Was really interesting to be taken through the entire process from picking to bagging to go to auction. I am well used to very modern factories from my work and this was very manual and basic in comparison - and the lack of machine guarding on some very fast rotating blades was scary!

The factory

Tea picking

Interestingly they are now using coffee trees for shade trees - the estate had originally been a coffee plantation.

Another feature of Tea Trails is that they encourage bungalow exchanges - so you can visit another (by walking, biking or car) for meals. We opted to be driven around to Summerville which was immediately across the lake from us for lunch.

Looking back across the lake to Dunkeld - middle of frame and the factory below

Summerville is also the place the plane docks

After lunch, we were picked up again along with the lovely lady who would be our massage therapist for the afternoon and bumped back around the lake on a mix of public roads and estate internal roads through small settlements

 

[Milboo]

After a lovely massage, we did the 30min walk downhill to the Castlereagh Bungalow through the tea estate - had been touch and go as we actually got a short spell of rain but it made everything look fresh and greener if it was possible!

All loaded up for auction

One of our lovely butlers was working down here

When we were ready, a driver was waiting to escort us back home again!

It was with great reluctance that I left the following day. I don't as a rule go on a holiday to do nothing but after the recent passing of my grandfather and a busy time at work, the stay here was exactly what my soul needed.

And how can it not when you wake for the early morning sun and misty view over the lake

 

[k_sheep]

For anything in particular?

Guide, car hire, food, the usual

 

[Milboo]

We paid $800 USD for our driver/ guide for the 11 days. This included 150km a day, his accomodation when not provided by a hotel (a number do) and meals. Also covered some train tickets.

I know this was over average price but did not have time to sort an alternative. Generally it's about $60 a day.

I mentioned it above - ask what type of car as you want something comfortable. But more important is a safe driver!

Due to our itinerary it was cheaper to have him the whole time than organising different drivers for different legs.

Food - can't really say! We ate at our hotels given their out of the way locations. A Sri Lankan curry was usually around $10-12. Coke at the supermarket was $2 a bottle. Bag of peanuts on the train was $1.

I didnt do any shopping really - tea was cheap lol! Sapphires are well priced too!!

 

[kpc]

Thank you for the TR...Sri Lanka has been on my travel list for a little while