Cod's tongues on the menu Newfoundland

[RooFlyer]

I've always wanted to go to Newfoundland ever since I went to a Newfie's party when I was at Uni in Ontario, many moons ago. Where else can you drink BOTH Screech:

Newfie Screech is manufactured in a process similar to the way most rum is made. Molasses and water is mixed together, fermented, distillated and aged. Newfie screech is a deep golden brown in color, much like that of dark caramel syrup.
Newfie screech has the aroma of molasses and wood without the strong aroma of alcohol. It has a distinct taste that is a blend of a slight sweetness and dry wood. It goes down smooth followed by a slightly hot sensation and a lingering molasses flavour.

...and 'Purple Jesus'. The latter is made up in a bath (cleanliness optional) and is mainly something called 'Everclear' ..

Everclear is a brand name of rectified spirit sold by American company Luxco. Luxco Brand is made from corn.It is bottled at 151-proof (75.5% ABV) and 190-proof (95% ABV).[SUP][2][/SUP] Sale of the latter is prohibited in many U.S. states.[SUP][
[/SUP]

... plus vodka and something purple.

Ahem; it seemed like a good idea at the time. I'm older and wiser now, so I may just stick to Newfie beers but I've been promised a plate of Cod's tongues by a local!! I wonder if its going to be better than the Hákarl I had in Iceland.

Hákarl is traditionally prepared by gutting and beheading a Greenland or sleeper shark and placing it in a shallow hole dug in gravelly sand, with the now cleaned cavity resting on a small mound of sand. The shark is then covered with sand and gravel, and stones are placed on top of the sand in order to press the shark. In this way the fluids are pressed out of the body. The shark ferments in this fashion for 6–12 weeks depending on the season.

Anyway, opportunity has presented itself during a week's pause before I have to present myself to the office in Canada.

HBA-SYD-LAX on Qantas. Landed on E-W runway, unusual in my experience and gave sights not often seen by me from aircraft:



Oversight in Sydney, and its the Ibis at King Street Wharf. "Ibis! :shock: " I hear you say. Well, yes, the Sydney stop-over is my own stay, on a budget; Ibis happens to be very close to my own Sydney office and its hard to beat them for enthusiasm at reception and good service for me as Accor Gold. Room was basic but perfectly adequate for a night and a nice personalised touch on the water




Next day, QF17 SYD-LAX. Some people strongly prefer the A380, but I'm still OK with the 747 and I wanted the afternoon service. I had a bit of a glitch checking in, with an issue re QF interlining with WestJet, which was my connecting flight, LAX-YYC. See here. Anyway, got sorted and up to the lounge. Then on board in 14A and an article in the Oz re fighting bird strikes with lasers.



Uneventful flight; crew good and attentive; meals OK with a pre dinner drinks service, which was good to see. The late afternoon departure meant that dinner was served at the normal time (local) and actually got some decent sleep for a change, again I think due to putting my head down at the 'normal' time.

I saw the CSM once, just after take-off. Squints into iPad, leans across pax next to me and ' Hello Mr RooFlyer - here's the arrival form for the USA'. OK, I guess that means that 'recognition' isn't high on his agenda .

On arrival at LAX we parked at a remote stand - never had that at LAX before and hope to never see it again. Bloodly 'miles' from the terminal - location 'A' in the first pic. We got bussed in, with second pic was from 'B' (note both QF jets parked there) and we got off a 'C', very close to immigration. Arrow in second pic points to the planes in the distance!




As I said, both QF 747s parked out there. there were plenty of gates available at the main terminal, in fact immigration and the bags area were completely deserted except for the QF pax, so I wonder what was going on? Maybe the planes don't turn around for a while, and QF saves by parking them over in the next zip-code? Not terribly impressed.

Easy through customs &immigration. De-planed at 2:10pm; onto bus and bus ride; immigration hall deserted except for us; directed first to wrong set of kiosks, but then correct ones; easy-peasy; bags on carousel by the time I arrived; mine appears in a few minutes; up the ramp to hand my bag over for WS; outside and its 2:50pm. So its not much more than 40 minutes from de-planning at remote stand to kerbside including a 10 minute bus ride!! Walk to T2. here I go to WestJet check-in to get WS BP (replacing my QF one); security at T2 also quiet. I'm at my T2 gate just 1 hour after de-planing.

T2 has had a re-vamp as well, although not yet complete. The WS gate is boxed in, and got a bit chaotic on boarding.



Flight to Calgary in whY on WS was OK; highlight was 3 pax attempting to use the toilets on our bumpy final approach. First one got up from mid-plane and walked to the front - got sent back. Almost immediately afterwards, another pax from same area tried the front - got sent back. Then as wheels being lowered (ie really close to landing now) a third pax tried it - this time at the back; got sent back. Ya really gotta wonder sometimes.

 

[RooFlyer]

So, first stop is my second home, Calgary. Two nights here to get over the jet lag. Cold and rainy - just what I left at home!

Anyway, the Fairmont Palliser downtown awaits. Its one of the string of grand 'Canadian Pacific Railway' hotels (now Fairmonts) built across Canada for the trans continental passengers. I'd given up on them years ago when I found them old, frumpy and expensive, but most have been well renovated over the past 10 years or so and you can find good rooms for ~A$200 - A$230 which while a lot, is good value for the quality of hotel and room. Fairmont's President's Club is good as well; I've just hit Platinum .

The hotel still looks pretty dowdy from the outside, but the lobby is all polished granite, marble and brass. A step up from the Ibis!






I was upgraded from a 'Fairmont Room' to a 'Deluxe room' - not much different, just a bit bigger. Very comfy and the thick walls and double glazing makes it very quiet, which is something I really like. Bathroom tiny, but more polished marble. Free high speed wi-fi (actually high speed!) for Pres Club members.




One more shot of the lobby, then to fill in the space, a shot of a restaurant around the corner. One thing I haven't come to grips with in all my visits to Canada is their cuisine. So many places are '........ Bar and Grill' and inside are booths and padded benches. So I wonder if this 'Thai' place also does Tex-Mex?

 

[drron]

I think it was in wonderful Winnipeg we saw a Thai restaurant that advertised Chinese,Japanese and Mexican food.Decided that their Thai food would be a bit suspect.

 

[mrs.dr.ron]

What is it with Fairmont bathrooms ! The Fairmonts at Banff and Lake Louise must have had the tiniest bathrooms I have ever been in ! And no counter space either.

 

[Milboo]

I've ended up on that remote stand at LAX on VA1 before and gone for seems like forever tour of the airport in the bus before being set free!

 

[RooFlyer]

Dawned grey and bleak in Calgary, so it was time to head to St John's Newfoundland (where the forecast for tomorrow is - cold and bleak).





Air Canada Priority Check-in for once went faster than the non priority line, so it was off to security. Even though the dears have a nice new security area (the airport is being extended and remodelled), its still the same slow and inefficient process.

And so to the Calgary Maple Leaf lounge. Travelling domestically, there is one - if you are heading to the States, you go without. This lounge has been going through the slowest renovations in history. A year as far as I'm aware and there are still hoardings up. (Apologies if this is a downer ... its that sort of day!)




Food and bev area have been re-jigged, although the food offerings are to a standard that would be rejected in Australian lounges.




Exhibit 1: LH pic is 'scrambled eggs with cheese'. On the right, the new island bar, where you can get a coffee machine coffee (I wouldn't call it 'barista coffee') - I asked for a strong latte and got basically a flat white.




No, I'm not a fan of MLLs, but we are spoiled at home of course. I usually do the e-mail and browsing thing then head to the gate early - its always a zoo and travelling J definitely does not guarantee you overhead locker space!!



Next stop - Toronto, and then St John's.

 

[RooFlyer]

I should add that Calgary is basically the same as Perth population and money-wise. I'll take PER's facilities, any day.

 

[RooFlyer]

On the flight YYC-YYZ breakfast was served and the J selection was pancakes, omelette and snags or fresh fruit & cheese. Here's the latter:




I hadn't been to Toronto airport for a while, but I did remember where the Maple Leaf Lounge was, which was lucky, because there was zero signage in the concourse. In T1, its accessed from elevators off to the left immediately after security, or, if you are coming off a flight on the right immediately before you depart airside. Its a relatively new lounge and lighter and better furnished than most MLLs.





There is a great booze selection (red wine on offer was some Lindeman's red and a something Spanish), but the food is, as always, variations of soup and salad and dips.




In fact dips by the vat-ful.



A large (and unoccupied) business area. Gate area well laid out. Boarding is in Zones per one's BP. First to board are those needing physical assistance, then J and high status pax. Then comes families with children and the rest.

 

[RooFlyer]

Here's a map of the flights. (And no, I didn't do all this just to see Newfoundland ... its a work trip to western Canada, but I have the first week to spare, as the client changed their own plans at the last minute.) From Calgary its 4 hours to Toronto, then a further 3 hours to St John's. You are really on the eastern edge here!




YYZ to YYT was on a A319, and seats 2A and C have massive legroom, but other than that its a pretty usual J seat and service.




This A319 actually continues onto LHR! I wouldn't be keen on a 5 hour trans-Atlantic trip on an A319 myself, but I suppose it beats going back west to Toronto first.

Choices for dinner were salmon, herbed chicken or gnocchi something. I chose the chicken, which was OK. White wines were 2 choices of chardonnay ( :evil and some more Spanish red. I tried the red, and left most of it.

 

[amaroo]

Nice part of the world... Nova Scotia is the closest we've been to your destination. Enjoy!

 

[RooFlyer]

At St John's I stayed at the Murray Premises Hotel. Its right downtown and at the harbour front (its a working harbour, so views aren't great). The alternative better places - the Delta and the Sheraton are on either end of downtown and not as well positioned I think.

The Murray Premises is a redeveloped early warehouse building - one of the few left in town.




My room is an 'Executive King'. A large room, with original beams and rafters a nice touch, but a navigation hazard in the middle of the night en route to the bathroom!! there is a hot tub, writing desk, gas fire etc etc. The shower bay is enormous.

 

[RooFlyer]

One of the features of St John's is the colourful weatherboard houses, especially close to downtown. It makes for a pleasant walk up the hill behind the town.

 

[mhen]

Brings back memories. Looking forward to your thoughts on cod's tongues. I had them 30 years ago when visiting St John's to see their use of "slow scan". Doctors at the hospital received scanned images like x-rays from small communities or off-shore rigs to determine whether or not patients needed to be evacuated for further treatment. The university sent whiteboard images when they conducted phone tutorials with small centres. Seems so simple now but then it was a very innovative and collaborative use of technology.

 

[RooFlyer]

Cape Spear is the most easterly point in North America, and only a short drive out of St John's. It was a blustery day when I visited and I don't think that was unusual!

On the right is the point itself; there are memorials to people who have died around this place in a number of spots.




There is an old Fort (LH pic) and a lighthouse, with the latter still operational. Its an exposed and rugged coast.




I missed the biggest set, but plenty of large rollers coming in from the ocean.




LH pic shows the (concealed) entry to St John's harbour; RH pic the remnants of WW2 defences (not used, although German U boats sank a number of ships offshore).




This is the 'fort'; I didn't catch when it was used. I thought the RH structure was an outside dunny - but the purpose of the emergency hatch escapes me.

 

[RooFlyer]

St John's was founded about 1630 and claims to be the oldest city in Nth America (although several other settlements in NL were started earlier and it only got it's city status in 1921).

Sebastian Cabot claimed in the mid 1500s to have named the location with his father, John Cabot when they visited about 1497. Sailors of several nations visited the locality in the early 1500s. Sir Humphry Gilbert claimed the place for England in 1593, England's first overseas colony.

The attraction of St John's harbour can be easily appreciated from Signal Hill, a short drive from downtown. Tthere is a (very!) narrow channel leading into a harbour almost at 90 degrees to the opening, thus providing good shelter against the Atlantic storms. A long hill provides further shelter for the town area.







Cape Spear can be seen in the right hand distance in this pic:




The locals built a tower on the hill in 1897 to mark the 400th anniversary of Cabot's landing.




At the entrance of the harbour is this lighthouse; the place is subject to horrendous fogs (which is an issue for the modern airport, too).

 

[drron]

I remember quite a few years ago when our travels were less planned.We were on the coast of Maine and wondered whether we could do a trip to Newfoundland on the ferry.The fellow says sorry the ferry isn't going until the fog lifts.So when will the fog lift.July.Of course we were there in April.

 

[RooFlyer]

On my second day I took the hire car north and then south of St John's. The roads are generally good, although no (zero) 'passing lanes'. That's not such a big deal, as the speed limits are set relatively low. I first drove north to Pouch Cove, near the tip of the peninsula. The theme for the day is 'rugged coastal scenery and scenic, quaint fishing villages'. The weather was patchy - on a bright summers day it would have been gorgeous. At some spots I nearly got blown away.




Pouch Cove, only 30min drive north from St John's boasts that it is "first to see the sun in Nth America". (That is, when its not foggy :mrgreen: )




Going south again (little option) down the western side, I came to Portugal Cove. It was settled very early on (was burnt by the French in 1696) and is where Giant Squids (of the Kraken legend) were first documented. (There is one on display in the SJ museum). Today it is the port for the Bell Island ferry. Bell Island (RH pic) was a home to an iron ore mine that extends beneath the bay, one of the world's largest underwater mines. The island's dock and its iron ore carrier ships were attacked by German U boats in WW2.




Heading south of St John's on Route 10, first stop was Bay Bulls, where bird and whale watching cruises are offered. The weather was a bit dirty for that, so I passed. However, culinary delights approached (they were closed ).

Bay Bulls was settled before 1592 and has the dubious distinction of being the most attacked town in Newfoundland, with the Dutch, French and English having multiple goes in the 17th and 18th centuries. Today it supports fishing (cod, off the Grand Banks), some oil and gas rig servicing and is also a dormitory community for St John's.

 

[mrs.dr.ron]

Great photos RooFlyer

 

[RooFlyer]

As readers of my TRs will know, I'm not a great one for foodie pics and reviews, but with SJ's being such a compact downtown, and my visit being on and immediately after the Labor Day long weekend (the end of the tourist season and when locals stay home, recovering), I was able to get bookings for 2 of the top 3 restaurants in St John's.

First up, The Reluctant Chef. Very hot place at the moment; recently moved to new premises with three times the seating (hmmmm...). Concept is a 'surprise' tasting menu; allergies are aversions are taken note of, and you get 5 courses, with matching wines if you like.

A smart new building and a pleasant setting. Service and staff very nice and like to chat.




First up - LH: Bluefin tuna with purple beans, kohlrabi, quinoa and a dressing. Matched with NZ Cloudy Bay sav blanc. RH: Second dish, Cod tom kha Gai with coconut, ginger and Thai chilli oil. Matched with Anselmann Riesling from Pfalz, Germany.

The tuna was nice although unsurprising and the Cloudy Bay an old favourite. The cod Thai dish was great; maybe a tad too much chili oil but I liked it a lot. The German Riesling was just sensational - perfect!




Next, LH pic a Jamaican Beef Patty with jerk-spiced yoghurt sauce and a cilantro micro salad. This was just boring. Absolutely nothing in the flavours to conjure up Jamaica. The red was the same - a Caliterra Carmenere from Chile; just plain. I guess in that regard it was a good pairing!!

RH pic: lamb with potato gratin (really?) and roasted tomato with black olive & preserved lemon crumble (that's more like it). The lamb was definitely on the rare side, but tasty enough. The wine served with it was a 2002 Peninsula Ridge cab sav from Niagara. This was OK, but didn't have the oomph that we are used to in Australia and it didn't open up at all.




Dessert course was a tarragon sponge cake with pink peppercorn fennel mousse and a meringue top. The cake was boring, but the pink peppercorns in the mousse was a really good touch. I wish the menu had more of this type of imagination. The wine was a Nova 7 Muscat blend from Nova Scotia (mildly sparking).

Cheese on the right was another disappointment; some rubbery Quebec cows milk cheese; nothing to write home about.




Lastly, another shot of inside the restaurant.




Overall, I'd have to say that the menu was a little unimaginative. Nice enough all round, but I was expecting more 'gee, that's interesting' rather than 'that's nice'. It was the first night of this menu (it changes every two weeks) so maybe the chef needed a day to refine things.

I had a similar meal concept at Frogmore Creek near Hobart recently (surprise multi-course) and this wasn't a patch on my local.

I wouldn't say not go there, but don't get too excited.

 

[RooFlyer]

Continuing south (the dinner review is out of order ... in a manner of speaking), I re-sugared up at Canada's greatest institution and kept weaving down the coast





I headed into La Manche Provincial Park on the 'promise' of seeing a moose. At the end of a 1.5km walk you come to the coast and the ruins of the fishing village of La Manche, which was destroyed by a storm in 1966. You can imagine how the storm surge would have funnelled up the gulch. The suspension bridge is new. There is an 'East Coast Trail' which hugs the coast and would be a tremendous hike to do in fine weather (many days walking).





Some remnants of the summer ... and I'm not sure about their trail marking techniques; this at a distinct Y in the trail.




Ferryville another settlement dating back close to 400 years; again, a long history of European fights for possession.




Then to the Colony of Avalon. George Calvert, First Baron Baltimore purchased this area (he called it Avalon, named after where Christianity was supposedly introduced to Roman Britain) in 1620 and established a colony, allowing free worship of both Protestant and Catholic canonists. A long and interesting story, too much for here but he eventually went south to establish areas in Virginia and Maryland.

There is a narrow peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic and I swear you could power all of Newfoundland with a few wind turbines (which reminds me ... I didn't see any of those!). And no moose, either. :evil: