The Jukebox Clan Does Japan

jukebox333

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What was, if you ask my 23 year old son, an eternity ago, I promised my three kids "our last family holiday". They were at the time (2019) M19, M17 and F12. I had been divorced 6 years, and was just finding my feet financially. Both my younger son and I were in 2-year old relationships, but I wanted One Last Dance, an o/s trip with just the four of us. We settled on Japan, and had a three week trip booked for April 2020...

In those heady early days of Covid, we held out for as long as we could, believing that the trip was still do-able. There were contingencies planned, and my ex-wife pacified that we could extract ourselves if one or some of us got ill. But the world began to close down, and the stake through the heart finally happened when Cathay stopped flying Hong Kong-Japan. Four weeks before the departure date, our holiday was officially cancelled. By something close to a miracle, I had taken out travel insurance a mere 48 hrs before Covid became an excluded event. As it turned out, only one of the hotels I'd prepaid would not refund me - the other two I actually made Money on the refunds, because the AUD-YEN rate had shifted about 15%. Cathay eventually refunded me too, but that took quite some time, probably because of the sheer numbers of people affected.

Over the next five years, we wondered what might have been. My younger son in particular was devastated - we'd been so close to leaving, and it was a dream destination for him. As the world opened up, and travel became more stable, we peered into the future, and agreed that Spring 2025 would be our target to finally do this thing. There were some fundamental changes, though. My son and I still had the same partners, and it felt wrong excluding them. Sadly, in the interim, my teenage daughter and I have become estranged, so she would not be part of the mix. And of course, Japan has now become the Aussie tourist destination de jour, which does take the edge of things a little.

I went back to my 2019 plans, and was embarrassed how unprepared I would have been. Japan Mk.II would be a bit longer, a bit more adventurous, and much better thought out. With my daughter out of the picture, we would be five adults. I have not been on an all-adult holiday since I visited Europe and proposed to my ex-wife in 1996, so this felt very different: no self imposed curfews, night tourism and photography would be the norm not the exception, and the need to placate under 18's with kid attractions vanished (cat temples and hedgehog cafes replaced by the need to placate four other adults, two of who have never been to Japan, and one of those who has never left the country!). There's also some wonderful surprises planned...

The Japan portion looks something like this (we'll also stop in Hong Kong for five days on the way home):

Jap Map B.jpg

Changes to rail pass rules, rail pass prices, and niggles securing some accommodation, shaped the route, as did an increase in my own confidence to push myself and my travel companions a little outside their comfort zones. Having said that, this won't be a trip report for hard-core Japan enthusiasts - I'm sure you'll have done all this stuff years ago! If you want real inspiration, go back an read *all* of @rbjhan's brilliant love letters to the Land of the Rising Sun - she's an inspiration for anyone who enjoys travel.

Hopefully, this tale of ours pans out like the first TR I did here over a decade ago, to Lapland - accessible, memorable, and with some takes that might encourage others to also venture a little off the beaten track. This time out, I'm going to try and report in as I go, not in real time, but certainly within a day or two - because I like the idea of challenging myself.

So move your seat backs forward, put your tray tables in the upright position, and prepare for take-off later next week...
 
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Sakura season baby!
I expect lots of beautiful blossom pictures 😎
I hope they do too. Sakura hasn't truly started here in Tokyo. Instead i got Snow in mid March a few days ago. Yes... snow in Tokyo in sakura season.... (It's back up to 24 today).
 
I hope they do too. Sakura hasn't truly started here in Tokyo. Instead i got Snow in mid March a few days ago. Yes... snow in Tokyo in sakura season.... (It's back up to 24 today).

Whether it's chasing Sakura or Momiji, there's always uncertainty...need lots of flexibility in the plans and sometimes just accept your fate 🤪
Of course easier for me to say that since I've seen them all...
 
Whether it's chasing Sakura or Momiji, there's always uncertainty...need lots of flexibility in the plans and sometimes just accept your fate 🤪
Of course easier for me to say that since I've seen them all...
So close to seeing heavy snow with sakura though. A couple of trees were budding up.
 
It all sounds great, what you have planned. Japan is on top of our list to visit, so we're keen to see what you experience, to add to our list of ideas. Having been in a similar situation to yourself, just kick back, enjoy the experience, and don't lose your sense of humour..
 
I also have booked a trip for Nov 2020, on Virgin's proposed BNE-HND route (RIP) no less....
Got cancelled, re-booked, and repeated the cycle several times during COVID 🤣🤣 before eventually the Nov 2022 trip happened...
 
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We're all packed, and off on Thursday morning, so I'll use the calm before wheels-up to fill in some background.

The air component of the trip was pretty much self-sorting; My partner and I, and my eldest, live in the international travel backwater of Perth, whilst my youngest son and his partner are now in Brisbane. There's a few options on how to get to Japan ex-the East Coast, not so many from PER (although ANA have now started flying out of here, and they have offered some keenly priced direct flights in the last 12 months, some including a domestic travel leg for free), however my kids and I have an affinity for Hong Kong, and a stopover there is a must for us, so flying Cathay ex-Perth was a no-brainer. I did see if the BNE pair could do a BNE-NRT, KIX-HKG, HKG-NRT-BNE itinerary with someone else, but the Japan-Hong Kong-Japan flights are just outrageously priced.

About 350 days out I was able to grab two bookings, one for three of us PER-HKGx-NRT/KIX-HKG-PER ($1131ea), the other for 2 pax BNE-HKGx-NRT>KIX-HKG-BNE ($998ea), which felt like pretty good value.

Through work travel and DSC offers, I managed to scrape through to QF WP Status last March, so this will likely be my last hurrah with that benefit before it expires in July; in this instance, it got me free seat CX selection (including exit and extra legroom rows). Cathay only wanted $25 for seat selection on the HKG-Japan-HKG legs, so I ponied up for the the other four travellers for those two legs ($70pp for the AU-HKG legs was a pass from me). As WP I got T-48 check in for the three of us ex PER, and so the three of us are now sorted.

First up, we're doing a week in Tokyo, then my original plan was to buy a JR Central Hokuriku Arch Pass to take us around to Kyoto via Kanazawa. After that, a few days based in Kyoto, then a JR West Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass to get us down to Hiroshima, then back to Osaka. But when the shinkansen extension to Tsuruga opened late last year, the Arch pass price went up by ¥5,500, and multiplied by x5 passengers, it equated to a significant bump. I checked out cost of one-way car rentals, did the numbers, and decided that a one-way van rental Nagano - Nagoya would give us more freedom, take us to places away from the Golden Triangle, and be an equivalent cost, so took the plunge and locked that in.

Our accommodation in Tokyo is at the Yaesu Terminal Hotel, close by Tokyo station. I found this place in a Lonely Planet guide book (remember analog travel research???!) before our first visit to Tokyo in 2008, and while it's not close to anything in particular, it's very central, and near both the NEX from the airport, and the Shinkansen to Nagano, the two journeys we'd be hauling all of our luggage in and out. From my last visit, it's very basic, and compact, but clean and tidy. The larger single room worked out at ¥18,750/night, and the large twins ¥32,200/night. I know I paid a premium for booking early, but the peace of mind and surety it was sorted were worth it. I don't do "last-minute" well. My backup was going to be APA Hotel Keisei Ueno-Ekimae, up in Ueno. I'll find out by the end of the week if I made the right call.

I should explain I used some ninja skills to book rooms here; bookings only open 3 months out, and when they did, the hotel's English website actually showed no availability. The native site was fine, but like some Japanese business sites, it didn't like half width characters when filling in data fields, so you have to be prepared with a converter that you can get your details converted to full width, then cut and paste, before it will accept your booking. Other sites may need your name in Japanese characters - there's a website for that, too.

Also, because our stay spanned the end of one month and the start of another, I couldn't book the whole stay at once. I had to wait another 30 days for April's bookings to open. And then when I did try and book the single room we needed for eight consecutive nights, the website rejected that as being too long, meaning I had to book 7 + 1 nights. In the end, I had six separate reservations, but full credit to the hotel: last week, I had an email from them, politely asking me to confirm they had the details for my "numerous reservations" correct, and when I explained our plans, they understood straight away and were right on top of it.

Right now, the only niggle I have is our transit through HKG. Cathay revised the schedule of our flight out of Perth, and we now have only 70 mins to connect. I did look at a more relaxed connection (4 hrs) when I booked, but that flight pair was an extra $400/pp. Looking at the flight history on FlightRadar24, the Perth flight was only delayed once in the last 10 days (by 70 mins), but in that instance they made up half that time getting to HKG, and it appears they held the NRT connection, as it left late by 35 mins. It's a single carrier, with the booking all the way through, and there are later flights HKG=NRT if we or our bags don't make the connection; I'm more concerned for my son coming from Brisbane - his connection is >90 mins, so he will make it easy, but would have to tackle getting into Japan and to the hotel on his own, which he's never done before. I've counselled him, and he's well prepared if that happens. As I said, a niggle, rather than a worry.

One more sleep...
 

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