3 Weeks in Japan - The Post COVID Version!

[rbjhan]

Ah, sometimes I forget not everyone has been to Japan 11 times
Thanks @Matt_01 for the detail explanation!

Just want to add, there are actually rooms with their own onsen, which in Japanese would be called 露天風呂付き客室 or something similar, it's all yours for the duration of your stay.
And then there are ones that can be reserved by the hour, it's called 貸切風呂. It can be free or paid depends on the ryokan.
Both those I see them being translated as private onsen...I've had both types this trip, read on!

Last but not least, public bath is 大浴場, separated by gender, since you must be completely naked in there...

 

[zig]

Following your trip with great enjoyment. I am also looking forward to a return to Japan.
The food looked stunning - a shame to eat it

 

[offshore171]

Following your trip with great enjoyment. I am also looking forward to a return to Japan.
The food looked stunning - a shame to eat it

They do take a lot of care in the presentation!

 

[rbjhan]

After they drop me off at Izu Atagawa, went on a local train to Atami.
It was beautiful!


Those window facing seats are quite handy for taking pictures.


From Atami, another local train to Mishima, then switched to private railways to Shuzenji, before finally boarding the bus to Shuzenji onsen!
I almost cancel this part because the journey was ridiculous...
But Shuzenji is worth it.

First thing first, find my ryokan for the day, Kikuya.


No such thing as early check-in in Japan, so I just left my bag and went out to explore this little onsen town.

 

[rbjhan]

Shuzenji onsen 修善寺温泉 is located in the central of Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture. It's been a famous onsen resort for a very long time.
There are many foot baths around town, this one is particularly impressive.


Autumn colours over the Katsura river.


The town is named after Shuzenji Temple 修禅寺, founded in 870.


Took about one hour walking through the whole town...

 

[rbjhan]

Finally 3pm! Back to Kikuya I went...
Was given this map for directions, as you can see, it is necessary!


Kikuya has been around for quite some time, but I booked a room in the new wing, which was built during the pandemic, I think.
You have to walk through this bridge to get there.


Room was quite small

But it has private onsen by the river!


This one is all mine.
They also have 4 different 貸切風呂 Kashikiri onsen. There's no reservation either, you just walk up, if it's free, flip the wooden board to indicate it's been taken and lock the door behind.
Luckily for me, one of the outdoor onsen was available.


hmmmmm

 

[rbjhan]

After the soak I went to check out the older parts of the ryokan.


Beautiful, isn't it?

Famously the novelist Natsume Soseki stayed in Kikuya for some extended period. (He was told the onsen would be good for his health...)
It's a big selling point you can see!


Another lounge.

 

[rbjhan]

Dinner presentation was again a thing of art.


But I must say it didn't taste as good as the night before....

Shizuoka is a big producer of wasabi.


茶碗蒸し Savory steamed egg custard


You can choose soba instead of rice.


As a tradition of Hotespa group*，there are free ramen served after 21:30.

*This group runs hotel chains like Dormy Inn, Onyado Nono, and many ryokans.
Their business hotels are my favourite, ryokans I'm a bit less enamoured.

 

[RooFlyer]

I've always wanted to stay at some ryokans but I'm afraid the etiquette etc required intimidates me, and from your report so far, I can't see that changing. No criticism of anyone! just I'm a bit too timid to get things wrong.

 

[stm1sydney]

The SYD QF international business lounge however, was a disaster...terrible food, aircon not working well, and impossible to find charging ports

So about the same as pre-covid then.

Loving your TR.

 

[rbjhan]

I've always wanted to stay at some ryokans but I'm afraid the etiquette etc required intimidates me, and from your report so far, I can't see that changing. No criticism of anyone! just I'm a bit too timid to get things wrong.

In what way?
There aren't that many rules....plus they will explain everything during check-in.
Give it a try! I think you will love it.

 

[rbjhan]

So about the same as pre-covid then.

Loving your TR.

Thanks!
Ha yes, not much has changed...I hate international transfers via SYD with a passion

 

[rbjhan]

Woke up to another sunny day!
It's a long walk from the new wing to the dining halls on the other side of the river, but I'm not complaining....


Breakfast, again, it looks pretty enough but taste was nowhere near the one from Bousui...sigh


All in all I have mixed feelings about Kikuya.
The setting is stunning, but service was not on the same level as the truly exceptional boutiques. Business hotel chains are great, ryokans not so much. (My rooms especially feels like I'm in an Onyado Nono, if not for the private onsen!)
This one is about the same price as Bousui, and I know which I prefer.


Having said that, I think it can be a good first time ryokan experience though...they have one in Kyoto Arashiyama, Kadensho is the name iirc, they are very used to deal with foreigners.

 

[rbjhan]

Time to leave!
So back to the bus, then private rail to Mishima, before finally getting on a Shinkansen to Nagoya.


Of course I need to have Ekiben. (Also no time to stop for lunch really...Shuzenji onsen is a long way from anywhere )


Obligatory Shinkansen picture.


It was already 3pm when I reached my hotel in Nagoya.
Nishitetsu Hotel Croom Nagoya, near Hisaya Odori station. I stayed here before and quite liked it, so didn't think twice when booking.
Room is small though!


But they have a very good public bath on top floor.

Even has outdoor onsen!


I went back to Nagoya Station, had gyutan for dinner and did some shopping, called it a day.

 

[rbjhan]

The next morning went to have breakfast, was given some gloves first. You'll need to put them on (and the mask) before touching the buffet!


Food was not bad


Off to Inuyama Castle 犬山城.


Inuyama Castle, built in 1537, is one of only 12 original castles left in Japan, also is one of 5 castles which have been designated as national treasures. I have been to Himeji, Matsumoto and Hikone before, later this trip I would visit Matsue Castle as well, thus completed the collection

The castle sits on top of a hill next to Kiso river.


The main keep.


Panoramic views on the top floor.




Weather was not looking so good since early morning, finally the rain came after I left the castle.

 

[Matt_01]

I've always wanted to stay at some ryokans but I'm afraid the etiquette etc required intimidates me, and from your report so far, I can't see that changing. No criticism of anyone! just I'm a bit too timid to get things wrong.

There is no need to be concerned at staying in Ryokan, they are just traditional inns. There are no strict rules and the only etiquette that needs to be followed are the house rules e.g. quiet areas/ times, meal times etc. not to different from western hotels. Also like western hotels there are different types of Ryokans from budget to high end, small to large, some serve meals in a dining room/ central area while others serve meals in your room. Give it a try.

 

[RooFlyer]

Inuyama Castle, built in 1537, is one of only 12 original castles left in Japan, also is one of 5 castles which have been designated as national treasures. I have been to Himeji, Matsumoto and Hikone before, later this trip I would visit Matsue Castle as well, thus completed the collection

I've always wanted to visit Himeji Castle, but have been foiled three times!! (1- ran out of time 2, found it was Golden Week just before I arrived and checked the wait times (!) and 3, covid-shortened trip.

Which would you say is the top 3 for historical and cultural interest?

Give it a try.

Will do

 

[rbjhan]

I've always wanted to visit Himeji Castle, but have been foiled three times!! (1- ran out of time 2, found it was Golden Week just before I arrived and checked the wait times (!) and 3, covid-shortened trip.

Which would you say is the top 3 for historical and cultural interest?



Will do

Personal favourite is Matsumoto Castle, something to do with me seeing it first time at night with no one around
Himeji was indeed too popular for my liking...
The other 3 however, have the advantage of being on top of hills and/or near river/lakes, so are more beautiful naturally.

In terms of historical importance though....probably neither. The ones being preserved had not seen great battles, logically speaking!
Osaka Castle was the site for the great summer and winter siege 大坂の陣, but ofc the castle was long gone and what we see today is a soulless concrete building

Edit, realised I didn't answer your question!
Personally I would suggest Matsumoto, Himeji and Inuyama.
Matsue is simply too out of the way, for the practicalities. I didn't see many foreigners in San'in area.
Hikone, I dunno, just didn't find it very impressive.
Only talking about originals here, I don't rate the concrete rebuilds. I mean, nice to have a lift inside, but then you lose all sense of authenticity.

 

[rbjhan]

I had plans to visit Gifu castle in the afternoon, but didn't feel like doing it in the rain, so went back to Nagoya for lunch. Holy cough there were so many people! Every restaurant there's a loooong queue I don't think I'll ever get used to the Japanese love of queueing...
Anyways since I had fancy dinner plans, decided to go to Sukiya for lunch
This was a healthy gyudon! No rice, under the beef there was tofu and cabbage.


Under the TV tower there's a mall with lots of restaurants and shops, with considerably less people than JR Nagoya Station area.


There I went on searching for a short sleeve top...impossible task in Japan in November! They have this strong sense of seasons and everywhere you only see winter clothing, even if it's 20 outside! Oh and don't get me started on them setting air con permanently at 25...

Anyways I found a UT from Uniqlo, not the best but that would do. Also bought some Japanese books for my study.

Then time for dinner! Hitsumabushi is a famous Nagoya specialty.
Found some introduction here, much better than what I can do.

Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) - Food in Japan

Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) is a traditional Japanese food and Nagoya’s famous specialty with a lot of grilled eel on top of the rice bowl.

foodinjapan.org

Yummm

 

[MARTINE]

After they drop me off at Izu Atagawa, went on a local train to Atami.
It was beautiful!
View attachment 309217

Those window facing seats are quite handy for taking pictures.
View attachment 309242

From Atami, another local train to Mishima, then switched to private railways to Shuzenji, before finally boarding the bus to Shuzenji onsen!
I almost cancel this part because the journey was ridiculous...
But Shuzenji is worth it.

First thing first, find my ryokan for the day, Kikuya.
View attachment 309218

No such thing as early check-in in Japan, so I just left my bag and went out to explore this little onsen town.

Thanks for this great thread
I love Japan and its time to start planning another trip
One of my favorite Tokyo hotels is the Palace Hotel in Maranuchi…sublime - beautiful food (especially breakfast ourside on the water) service, ambience and those flower arrangements!!
You have inspired me