A race around Japan

[CaptainCurtis]

Wondered to Kennin-ji Temple, the oldest Zen Temple in Kyoto. This would be the first of many admission fees in Kyoto, this one at ¥600. Make sure to bring plenty ¥500/¥100 coins and ¥1,000 notes when visiting Kyoto.

Some cool artworks displayed first, although these didn't feel particularly Zen.



The interiors of the buildings and the gardens were much more on brand.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

One of the halls had this amazing mural on the ceiling. Japan Guide tells me it was commissioned in 2002 to commemorate the temple's 800th anniversary.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

I then walked through the old cobblestoned streets of Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. These streets were absolute chaos, with truckloads of people all heading in the same direction. I didn't do any shopping or eating here, but these alleyways were very quaint. Plus it was fun trying to get pictures without any people in!

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Everyone was heading to the same place, Kiyomizu-dera Temple - one of the 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kyoto. Situated in the hills of the Southern Higashiyama area, it offers beautiful views over Kyoto.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Pro Tip: Jishu Shrine is hidden behind the main hall of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, so don't miss it like I did.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

From there, I ended up calling an Uber back to the hotel which cost about $16. Lazy? Yes. Convenient? Yes as well.

That night I wondered down Pontocho, a narrow 500m long alleyway located between Shijo-dori and Sanjo-dori avenues, and parallel to the Kamo-gawa River in Kyoto's downtown. This place was absolutely packed, but in a lively and soulful manner. It was a welcome break from the cleanliness and civility I had experienced thus far in Japan, with rubbish on the floor and some drunken antics. It's hard to explain, but Kyoto has been the first place I've visited on this trip that has felt like it has a soul not attributable solely to the natural, architectural and city-based beauty that other places have benefitted from. People were sitting along the river, having picnics and singing along with a number of buskers/artists.



Dinner was at Steak Revolution - the wagyu steak was decent, although I wouldn't say it was better than anything I could have made myself at home. The chips were delicious. Went a little overboard with the Japanese whiskeys. I'm convinced I was overcharged, but couldn't be bothered navigating the language barrier to resolve it.

 

[trendwhore]

Kyoto looking jammed as usual. I reckon you shouldn't feel too bad if you were overcharged for the Whisky.. it'll still be way cheaper than Aus anyway haha

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Day 17 - Day Trip to Nara

Wanting to avoid some of the weekend tourists, I decided that I would head down to Nara today. I was up early, and jumped in the Keihan Railway from Sanjo to Fushimi-Inari. I could have taken a JR line, which would have been covered by my JR pass, but it would have doubled the travel time to around 60 minutes as it would have required a changeover at Kyoto Station. The fare was just ¥220, so no complaints at all.

The pathway of thousands of torii shrines leading to Fushimi Inari Shrine is possibly one of the most recognisable places in Japan. I've you've done any research on where to visit in Japan, you've no doubt come across this place. Each of the torii gates are donated by individuals and corporations, with their names inscribed on each gate. Fushimi Inari is one of thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. No admission cost for this one!




I didn't hike the trail for particularly long, as I wanted to get to Nara. I highly recommend getting to this place early, as it would be unbearable with masses of tourists. I was there at about 8AM, and managed to get some pretty clean pictures without many people in.

 

[drron]

Kyoto was different to other places we visited on our first trip in 1984. We had our son and Mrsdrron’s mother with us and neither appreciated Japanese food. So in Kyoto we walked around and came across a place called the Hollywood cafe and thought that would be fine.
Down the stairs to find it full of young Japanese men who were hitting the sake. A silence came over the place with 2 women and a child coming in.
Now I was ready for this with my business cards. At the time I was President of the Maitland Show Society. Officially it was the Hunter River Agricultural and Horticulture Association Pty Ltd.

One of the Japanese fellows came over and introduced himself and handed over his business card and I reciprocated. He worked for NTT but had worked for a year in Melbourne for Telstra.
He looked at my card and exclaimed “A doctor and a company president!”

Went and told the others and they all came over and offered us sake. Explained that the women only drank wine so they bought them a bottle.

I of course felt obliged to accept the sake and probably a glass from each one of them. I felt very happy. In fact not sure if I ate or not.
Then each NTT worker gave us a telephone card.

PS. On our day at Nara in 1984 absolutely no crowds and we could drive up to the front gate of every temple.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

A quick stop at Vermillion Espresso Bar in Fushimi for an iced latte, before jumping on the hour long JR train to Nara. First up was a walk down one of the main streets in Nara, Sanjodori street. The street takes you to Sarasuwa Pond, which was offering some beautiful reflections on the water.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Then over to Kofukuji Temple. Unfortunately the 5-storied pagoda was undergoing renovation or restoration works, so it was hard to get nice pictures. Also a few snaps of the octagonal hall.





Entry to the Central Golden Hall cost ¥500. No pictures allowed inside, but managed to sneak one of the insides from outside haven't been arrested, yet.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Isuien Garden was then a short walk away. While the entry fee was fairly steep at ¥1,200, it was well worth it.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Todaiji Temple is perhaps one of the most famous sites in Nara. The main hall, Daibutsuden, is absolutely massive. For a long time, it was the worlds largest wooden building. Inside you'll find one of the largest bronze statues of Buddha, at 15m tall. Pictures simply don't do either of these justice. Admission was ¥600.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Walked through Nara Park towards Kasuga Taisha Shrine, passing among the deer that Nara is famous for. I didn't partake in the feeding - while I understand they are wild animals, their habitat has still been altered/occupied by tourists, which I don't love. The heavens had opened up once again by this point, so it was a fairly brisk walk.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

By this point it was approaching 2PM, and I was getting somewhat tired (and wet), so decided to head for the train station. While on the train, I had a second wind and decided to jump off at Tokfukuji Station, and made the short walk to Tofukuji Temple. No recollection of what I paid for this one.




Then back on the train to Sanjo and to the hotel for a rest.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Dinner was at Kerala, a fantastic Indian restaurant. The chicken tikka masala was fantastic, as was the naan bread. From memory I paid around $30, including a beer.



To wrap up, I would definitely recommend a day trip to Nara if you have a spare day whilst staying in Kyoto. While it was still busy, the crowds were definitely thinner than in Kyoto. Deciding what to do each day in Kyoto can be quite overwhelming with the sheer quantity of things to see and do, but I found the combination of Fushimi Inari and Nara quite a good one.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Day 18 - Kyoto

As I approach the three-week mark of non-stop travel and touring, today was a designated rest day... or as close as you come to one in Japan. Unfortunately there are no beaches or pools to lay at here. I had a late breakfast and coffee at Smart Coffee. The wait was about 30 minutes, which I didn't mind. They have a very simple breakfast menu, consisting of pancakes, french toast or sandwiches. I went for the french toast, which was definitely the best I have ever had, along with an iced coffee. Worth the visit if you have the time to spare.



Then jumped on the train to Nijo Castle. Admission cost ¥1,300, which included admission to the Ninomaru Palace. Unfortunately the Honmaru Palace was closed, as was the Painting Gallery. No photos allowed inside the Palace. Water in the moat was an interesting colour.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

A few more from Nijo Castle.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

I then jumped in a taxi, heading for Kinkakuji, also known as the Golden Pavilion. The taxi came to ¥2,500... don't forget that it was a rest day after all! Kinkakuji is best known for its top two floors being covered in gold leaf, earning its spot as another one of Kyoto's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Admission was ¥500. This place was incredible to photograph, I just wish I didn't have to compress the images so heavily to attach them here.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

I then headed back towards the hotel, stopping for a late lunch / early dinner Ichiryu Manbai Ramen, which was just across the alleyway from the hotel. Ordering was done at one of those machines, which was only in Japanese. I don't know exactly what I ordered, but it was a chicken ramen, the stores specialty, and it was great.