A race around Japan

[CaptainCurtis]

A few random snaps from the Naga-machi District.



Felt like I belonged in this place for thinking I would actually learn about geisha and samurai culture in Kanazawa.



Stopped at Hirami Pan for a few late afternoon pastries, before heading back to the hotel to rest.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

I feel like 2 days was the perfect amount of time in Kanazawa. The gardens were the highlight, despite the miserable weather. I had some great food here too, although was left disappointed by some of the other sights.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa has been the best hotel thus far. The room is big, the bed comfortable and the location perfect. No need for breakfast here, with great options around town. The baths were a treat too.




Happy hour runs from 5-7PM, with ¥550 drinks and ¥450 snacks. I had dinner at the bar tonight, "french fries" and fried chicken. Pretty tasty.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Kanazawa Station is truly marvelous.



Next up is Kyoto for 5 nights. If anyone has any recommendations on how to structure my days while there, I'm all ears. There's lots to do! Will probably do a day trip to Nara as well.

 

[PrezRegan]

Definitely do Nara deer park but watch out, the deer can be quite aggressive! They will bite the biscuits out of your hand or pocket before you feed them.
Also, just catching up on this trip, - I thought Qantas was offering a Japanese style menu on its flights to Tokyo, was that an option on your flight or have I been misinformed?

 

[desafinado74]

I walked the 1km or so from Kanazawa Station to Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa, dropping off my bags. The Japanese sure don't deviate from their traditions, as check-in was denied at 2PM. I went out for a stroll, arriving at Myoryuji Temple (Ninjadera, Ninja Temple). You can imagine my disappointment when I learned that there weren't any ninja on display! While I didn't have a reservation, I managed to squeeze in for the tour. Built in 1643, Myoryuji was both a fully functioning temple, and a secret military outpost for the local rulers. Its many deceptive defense's earned it the nickname Ninja Temple.

The entrance fee was ¥1,000 and the tour went for about 40 minutes. While the tour was run in Japanese, English guidebooks were available. Unfortunately no pictures were allowed inside the temple, so you'll have to visit for yourself.

Dinner was at Pizzeria e Trattoria DaTAKE - thank you @desafinado74 for the recommendation. The prosciutto pizza was seriously good, far better than I ever could have thought I'd find in Japan. Wine was an Aussie riesling, although can't remember any more than that. There was a lovely violin and cello duo playing music for about 15 minutes, felt just like I was in Italy. Will post a video another time.

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You are welcome ! I am happy that you liked my recommendation. Their pastas are very good too, especially the marinara.

As for Kyoto, the Golden Pavillion (Kinkaku ji )and Fushimi Inari are worth a visit.
It is also nice to walk around the Gion area at night too. Lots of lively izakayas and little restaurants and the area is beautiful at night.

Finally, every major Japanese train stations will sell beautiful boxed lunches called Ekiben. Many people who ride the shinkansen will buy one and eat it during the train set. And i find them pretty yummy.

 

[pagingjoan]

Definitely do Nara deer park but watch out, the deer can be quite aggressive! They will bite the biscuits out of your hand or pocket before you feed them.
Also, just catching up on this trip, - I thought Qantas was offering a Japanese style menu on its flights to Tokyo, was that an option on your flight or have I been misinformed?

We had the new Japanese menu in our flight, BNE-HND, early this month.
It was excellent.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Day 16 - Kyoto

I had a 9AM departure from Kanazawa station on the Thunderbird limited express, heading to Kyoto. A beautiful train, a 683 series, with our top speed above 130km/h. The trip took just over 2 hours.




Lake Biwa, Japan's largest freshwater lake, came into view as we approached Kyoto.

 

[Seat0B]

A short walk to Omicho Market. It wasn't particularly memorable, although the colours were vibrant.

I too was disappointed by this market. Not a patch on Nishiki in Kyoto. Still we had a good time people watching there. And I got an awesome hot lemonade with ginger to soothe a sore throat that was brewing (this was in February).

 

[Seat0B]

We love the Kenrokuen gardens not least because being over 60 we get in free. We have been in cherry blossom time, summer and autumn. In December we will see it in winter.

Not to hijack your thread @CaptainCurtis but we were at Kenrokuen in winter - early February this year and it was totally beautiful. That is one of the claims of this garden, that it is beautiful in all seasons. The yukitsuri (bamboo snow protections) are a work of art in themselves and we enjoyed watching the gardeners adjust these on our visit. In the cherry blossom grove, some of the early flowering types (maybe prunus) were just starting to bloom. it was gorgeous. I expect it would also look magnificent if you managed to go on a day with snow on the ground.


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[Seat0B]

I don't know if I'm missing something, but I found the area pretty superficial. I would have loved to learn more about the history, practices and traditions of the Geisha, but I left wanting more. I don't know if it's due to the language barrier and lack of translation, but it has been somewhat of a recurring theme throughout my time here.

Great trip report. I am loving travelling along with you.

We had the same feeling at many places in Japan. In Higashichaya, there were a number of very unobtrusive boards with historical information about the buildings - but all in Kanji. I knew enough to realise what these were, but not enough to translate (frustrating). Google translate did it's usually pretty good with a few hilarious WTF phrases thrown in! I think Japan is maybe not used to foreign visitors who want to know more about their history. Without descending into national stereotypes, I'm a member of a number of Japan Trip Planning groups (because we like to travel the same way you have, and help is always welcome!). These groups are FILLED with people wanting to know about the opening hours and fast pass options for Disney, Disney Sea, Universal Studios etc. I think given the numbers of these people, Japan is always surprised by anyone taking a genuine interest in hitsory and culture, or even language. We had a wonderful experience at a potentially tacky Ninja Experience Museum in Kanazawa - after I spoke a few questions in Japanese and then drew on the knowledge I had gained from watching a really interesting documentary series (in English) on Netflix about the Samurai times and the key daimyo families to ask more details about the era of the swords and armour, this guy really opened up and talked about restoration of historical artifacts, the process of getting approval to open his business, and many other interesting things, all in good English. I left feeling I understood quite a lot more. Plus we had fun with the shuriken (throwing stars)

 

[Seat0B]

A coffee recommendation is Kurasu Coffee (Kurasu Kyoto Stand) - kind of around the back of the main JR station. It is operated by a couple who studied in Melbourne and loved the coffee culture there. Google it, you won't regret it. It's small, only room for 5-6 people to sit at a high bench inside, but they even have a flat white on the menu!



Nishiki market in the morning or afternoon is a great experience - busy, lots of traders selling interesting things, offering little tastes of things. It's much better than Kanazawa market.

We enjoyed the Arashiyama bamboo grove - keep walking past the first little bit which is quite underwhelming, and then you will find some more serene and beautiful parts. But it is very popular and busy now, so also keep that in mind. The township of Arashiyama was a fantastic place for street food grazing (had some of the best chicken karaage on my whole trip here, and also some great ice cream flavours including black sesame and honey, matcha and vanilla swirl, sakura etc). Also many interesting little souvenir shops here and high quality cotton tee shirts.

If you go to Kiyomizudera (and despite the crowds, I recommend it), as you get off the bus in Gion and look up the hill towards the temple, try to avoid the really busy temple streets and go one street over to the right to go up the hill. This will take you through a much quieter street and through a huge Japanese cemetery which is really peaceful and beautiful and has a spectacular view. Then you will come into the back end of the Temple. Finally, walk down the chaotic temple street, accept the crowds as an experience and eat some street food.

If you go to Fushimi Inari, it's best early in the morning as it can get very crowded. But, to avoid crowds later in the day, just keep hiking up the mountain. The higher you go, the fewer people will be in your way. It's beautiful and worth doing. Then on to Nara, as this is on the correct side of town for that.

Hope this helps....

 

[pagingjoan]

Great trip report. I am loving travelling along with you.

We had the same feeling at many places in Japan. In Higashichaya, there were a number of very unobtrusive boards with historical information about the buildings - but all in Kanji. I knew enough to realise what these were, but not enough to translate (frustrating). Google translate did it's usually pretty good with a few hilarious WTF phrases thrown in! I think Japan is maybe not used to foreign visitors who want to know more about their history. Without descending into national stereotypes, I'm a member of a number of Japan Trip Planning groups (because we like to travel the same way you have, and help is always welcome!). These groups are FILLED with people wanting to know about the opening hours and fast pass options for Disney, Disney Sea, Universal Studios etc. I think given the numbers of these people, Japan is always surprised by anyone taking a genuine interest in hitsory and culture, or even language. We had a wonderful experience at a potentially tacky Ninja Experience Museum in Kanazawa - after I spoke a few questions in Japanese and then drew on the knowledge I had gained from watching a really interesting documentary series (in English) on Netflix about the Samurai times and the key daimyo families to ask more details about the era of the swords and armour, this guy really opened up and talked about restoration of historical artifacts, the process of getting approval to open his business, and many other interesting things, all in good English. I left feeling I understood quite a lot more. Plus we had fun with the shuriken (throwing stars)

I understand the views.
We were fortunate to have capable guides in Tokyo and Kanazawa - and a brilliant guide for our longer stay in Kyoto.
He had lived and worked outside Japan also, which gave him a broad perspective - and he shared our interests in history, design, art, architecture and food, which enhanced the experience immeasurably.

 

[trendwhore]

I feel like 2 days was the perfect amount of time in Kanazawa. The gardens were the highlight, despite the miserable weather. I had some great food here too, although was left disappointed by some of the other sights.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa has been the best hotel thus far. The room is big, the bed comfortable and the location perfect. No need for breakfast here, with great options around town. The baths were a treat too.

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Happy hour runs from 5-7PM, with ¥550 drinks and ¥450 snacks. I had dinner at the bar tonight, "french fries" and fried chicken. Pretty tasty.

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This hotel looks excellent! I've been looing for a reason to head up to that side of the country.. your posts might have just sent me there

 

[pagingjoan]

This hotel looks excellent! I've been looing for a reason to head up to that side of the country.. your posts might have just sent me there

Another tip for Kanazawa hotels, if CaptainCurtis doesn't mind, is Hyatt Centric Kanazawa, 1-5-2 Hirooka Kanazawa, Ishikawa, 920-0031.

A few steps across from the main station, and excellent facilities and service.
Highly recommended.

 

[Maca44]

Thank you again, a picture says a thousand words.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Definitely do Nara deer park but watch out, the deer can be quite aggressive! They will bite the biscuits out of your hand or pocket before you feed them.
Also, just catching up on this trip, - I thought Qantas was offering a Japanese style menu on its flights to Tokyo, was that an option on your flight or have I been misinformed?

Probably doing Fushimi Inari and Nara tomorrow, so that's good to know!

QF are most certainly offering the Japanese style menu, although I didn't partake on the way over here.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

A coffee recommendation is Kurasu Coffee (Kurasu Kyoto Stand) - kind of around the back of the main JR station. It is operated by a couple who studied in Melbourne and loved the coffee culture there. Google it, you won't regret it. It's small, only room for 5-6 people to sit at a high bench inside, but they even have a flat white on the menu!

View attachment 346673

Nishiki market in the morning or afternoon is a great experience - busy, lots of traders selling interesting things, offering little tastes of things. It's much better than Kanazawa market.

We enjoyed the Arashiyama bamboo grove - keep walking past the first little bit which is quite underwhelming, and then you will find some more serene and beautiful parts. But it is very popular and busy now, so also keep that in mind. The township of Arashiyama was a fantastic place for street food grazing (had some of the best chicken karaage on my whole trip here, and also some great ice cream flavours including black sesame and honey, matcha and vanilla swirl, sakura etc). Also many interesting little souvenir shops here and high quality cotton tee shirts.

If you go to Kiyomizudera (and despite the crowds, I recommend it), as you get off the bus in Gion and look up the hill towards the temple, try to avoid the really busy temple streets and go one street over to the right to go up the hill. This will take you through a much quieter street and through a huge Japanese cemetery which is really peaceful and beautiful and has a spectacular view. Then you will come into the back end of the Temple. Finally, walk down the chaotic temple street, accept the crowds as an experience and eat some street food.

If you go to Fushimi Inari, it's best early in the morning as it can get very crowded. But, to avoid crowds later in the day, just keep hiking up the mountain. The higher you go, the fewer people will be in your way. It's beautiful and worth doing. Then on to Nara, as this is on the correct side of town for that.

Hope this helps....




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Killer advice, thank you! I'll definitely check out the coffee shop next time I'm around the main station. I did Kiyomizudera today, and it was absolutely heaving with people. I didn't end up taking the cemetery path, but took another road on the way back that was at least a bit quieter than the main throughfare. There's so much to see in Kyoto that it's hard to decide what to do each day, and the order in which to do it, but I was thinking of doing Fushimi Inari and Nara tomorrow - I thought I was crazy for thinking of combining these two, but your advice has just convinced me to do so.

 

[CaptainCurtis]

This hotel looks excellent! I've been looing for a reason to head up to that side of the country.. your posts might have just sent me there

Try stop in Takayama if you have time, highly recommend it!

 

[CaptainCurtis]

Okay time to finish off Day 16 and catch-up. After arriving at Kyoto Station, I jumped on the subway up to Karasuma Oike, a ride that was less than 10 minutes. A short walk to the hotel, Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo, and I was ready to start exploring around midday.

First stop was Nishiki Market. Wow, this place is quite the market... perhaps one of the best I've seen, and boy was it crowded. It's about 500m long, and fairly narrow, so the atmosphere was buzzing.



A huge range of street food, produce, seafood, shops, homewares etc...

 

[CaptainCurtis]

The going rate for a grape (singular) seems to be about $1.



Lunch consisted of a number of skewers and smaller bites from vendors within the market (not all pictured).



Nishiki-Tenmangu was a nice little shrine at the end of the market. I love how the shrines and temples in Japan often blend in to the cityscape, highlighting the unity and integration between daily life and religion.



Then a walk across the Shijo-ohashi Bridge towards the Gion district.