A series of Firsts: India and Xi'an, mainly thanks to AFF

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Old F. New one looks completely different. Did you find the seat comfortable in "lounging" mode?

I didn't find it comfortable in bed mode!

I was the only F pax, so got the full attention of the FAs in my private B777. The old config seat I found quite OK; the TV screen was huge, as was the selection of films and TV.

This was a morning/afternoon flight, but I didn't sleep well the previous night, so I asked for a bed to be made up later in the flight. I'm glad that this is old config, because I found it uncomfortable - a bit hard (especially where your feet go) and a shin cracker if you brought your legs out of the 'well' too quickly. Yeah, FWPs ..

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A late-ish breakfast was served and under 'book the cook' I had ordered :"multigrain toast" which is all I thought would need after the lounge. I ordered some bircher muesli as well, and it was very nice (left). The multigrain toast came with garnishes of grilled tomato, eggplant and cucumber and presented great.

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For lunch I had booked lobster (of course) and had to choose some appetisers etc. I chose the 'poached lobster salad' (right) - unfortunately the accompanying salad items were still frozen, although the lobster was nice.

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Main course lobster thermidor was terrific, as was the strawberry shortcake desert.

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An amenity kit, PJs, socks and slippers had been handed out earlier. The amenity kit wasn't really - it was a Salvedore some-one collection of men's grooming stuff; no earplugs, toothpaste etc. A bit odd from my QF/AC/QR conditioning but that's the way they do it. I asked for and got some ear plugs and I suppose the rest would have been in the bathroom (which was only regular size).

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I didn't find it comfortable in bed mode!

Only been to that F cabin once on day flight so didn't sleep but I remember the seat wasn't very comfortable in "relaxation" mode. The new version is significantly better and also the bed quite comfortable.
 
Did you get the royal welcome?

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No, but I did get a royal departure at SIN. Due to being the only F pax, and the fact that they have an air bridge for F in Singapore, I had that exit door and air bridge all to myself!

This trip report will continue tomorrow, after I leave the Shangri-La in Delhi. Today, they have an IT function in their ballroom and have assigned nearly all the hotel bandwidth to them.

Guests simply miss out - tough bikkies. Also, renovation noise going to 9pm, not the 7pm I was told twice before confirming my reservation.

I am so going to enjoy this review on Trip Advisor :lol:
 
At Singapore, I tried to buy some rupees at several paces, but only found one that would sell me only R200 (abt A$4). That done, it was off to The Private Room.

You first get led through the scummy First lounge (LH pic) and then into TPL. It met all my expectations. Only about 3 other in there, very attentive service and great clubby atmosphere. I didn't dine, though.

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Soon it was off to the flight, leaving from very close to the lounge. This was an A380, suites flight. Two other pax in the cabin.

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Newspaper, menu, Krug and headphones ... all set to go. Lunch/dinner first course was Dahl soup, then lobster again and more strawberry short cake. All good.

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Although only a 5.5 hr sector to Delhi, I was surprised that there were no PJs available, nor any amenity kit offered (stuff was in the bathrooms). It being abt 11pm in Australia, I asked for the bed to be made up and tried to catch some sleep; a nice comfy bed this time :). A bit later, bored, I tried out the wi-fi (abt US$7 for 30MB) and it was very slow.

Delhi here I come!
 
Arrived at DEL on time and short taxi to the gate, and prompt disembarking. Immigration a breeze, and as HLO straight outside by abt 8:15pm local to be met by Rajesh, by tour guide from RVentures, as recommended with jojen. Soon in the car, with driver whose name I'll have to get 'refreshed' - I was also now complete with a necklace garland of marigolds :)

They drop me at the Shangri-La Eros in New Delhi. Not chosen for any greater reason that I'm Jade and need some points to get to a convertibility threshold - and it'll be a nice comfortable forst two nights.

It mostly hasn't disappointed. Strong security at the hotel gate (all doors, hood and boot opened) at front door (xray and metal detector), very nice foyer and OK check-in.

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I reserved a 'Horizon Club' room, as the hotel is being renovated and I wanted a bit more armour against getting a coughpy room. No worries, a great renovated room on the 15th floor. Those are my marigolds on the bed.

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Bathroom is see-through, as attested by the LH pic below (I did later find that it had blinds!). Interesting feature is the many kites who wheel and dive right outside the window - often much closer than this.

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I ate the second night at the hotel restaurant and was fascinated by the scene outside - two main roads of cars, intersecting at nearly right angles, threading across each other, apparently seamlessly, at abt 40-50km/hr :shock: The pics don't really show what a miracle of close-packed driving excellence it was.


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Enjoying the TR. Looking forward to you showing me what we're missing.

India was on a final list of two destinations for a trip next year....

Enjoy and safe travels!
 
I ate the second night at the hotel restaurant and was fascinated by the scene outside - two main roads of cars, intersecting at nearly right angles, threading across each other, apparently seamlessly, at abt 40-50km/hr :shock: The pics don't really show what a miracle of close-packed driving excellence it was.

The roads in India are craziness but also there is an order to it - the bigger or better vehicle has right of way! There is a lot of craziness and chaos in India - hopefully you find some of the beauty too.
 
First impressions of Delhi - foggy, chaotic, smoggy, chaotic, crowded, chaotic, historic.

I wasn't expecting fog, but apparently its the season for it. Cleared by about 11am, but then a smoggy haze took over.

The tomb of Mughal Emperor Humayun was probably the highlight of the day. Bult by his son in 1570. the grounds are very large, and peaceful!!

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Also in the grounds is the tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan who briefly defeated the Mughals and occupied Delhi in the early 1500s.

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The pre-British history of northern India at least is dominated my the Mughal Emperors (and my apologies in advance for any scholars of Indian history for this ultra Readers Digest version!!).

Babur of the central Asian Timur dynasty was descended from both Genghis Khan and Timur (Tamerlane) but was deposed from his ancestral central-Asian lands by Uzbek Khan in the early 1500s. Babur, then all of 14, moved south-east and occupied much of modern day northern India and Pakistan about 1520. His son Humayun was driven out for a while (see previous post), but returned in 1555 and then began a succession of about 19 Mughal (ie Islamic) emperors (some in name only) which lasted until 1857 when the British 'Raj' was established.

The last Mughal emperor was banished to Burma and I visited his tomb in Yangon in 2014.

The Mughals destroyed much of the prior architecture so the Mughal tombs and monuments will dominate much of what I'll see in the 'Golden Triangle' of Delhi, Jaipur and Agra (other than the Brit era of course). Many of the emperors were great builders and held refined courts.

The previous post showed the tomb of Emperor Humayun, and it should remind you of the Taj Mahal, built by the fifth emperor Shah Jahan.

The first monument we visited in the morning was the Red Fort and unfortunately it was still a bit foggy. The Red Fort was also built by Emperor Shah Jahan, in 1646 and housed each emperor until the last, in 1857. Its red from the sandstone used.

there are two imposing entry gates and a number of pavilions within massive sandstone walls. The British built a number of buildings within the area, to house garrison troops.

This is the Lahore Gate, used as the main entrance today.

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One of the many pavilions and residences in the vast grounds. The top story, originally open rather than screened was for drummers, announcing the coming and going of the Emperor.

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Some detail from that pavilion. RH pic shows a Mughal pavilion, but mostly some of the British army barracks.

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The other gate, the Delhi gate, used for exiting. Note in the RH pic an elephant-proof gate. Elephants used their foreheads (or rather, their masters used them!) as rams agains the gates of forts they wanted to enter. The spikes on this gate prevented that tactic.

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Some of the massive exterior walls around the Red Fort.

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Final views of the Red Fort. My guide pointed out some kind of weed or the other growing in the moat, but I couldn't recognise anything :shock:. Apparently it used to be a full-on crop until some-one realised what was going on. RH pic just one of the guard towers ... (seeing no evil ...)

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After the Red Fort we tackled Delhi Old town and its bazaars! Given the choice between rick-shaw and walking, I chose walking - at least then my life would be in my own hands. It was a great experience. Narrow lanes, lots of people, lots of colour and noise ...

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Of course the deeper you got, the more interesting the experience. Fortunately motorbikes gave you some warning that they were coming behind you, via their noise (and constant tooting horns), but the rick-shaws were silent and deadly, especially when there was just enough room for two to pass, but nothing else .... And of course like many similar places round the word the trade of 'electrician' seems to be unknown ...

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Then it was onto a large park which marks the place of cremation of notable figures such as Mahatma Ghandi, Indira Ghandi, Rajiv Ghandi etc ... LH pic is the place of Mahatma Ghandi's cremation (his ashes, like most Hindus are submerged in the Ganges River). RH pic is looking up the Rajpath through the afternoon smog to the President's house, or Rashtrapati Bhavan. It was built for the British Viceroy between 1911 and 1929 and designed by architect Edwin Lutyens. Of course the British rule in India ended in the 1930s, so the ViceRoy only got a few years out of it! We went up to it, but the fence is so far back, the smog was so thick, I didn't get a decent photo of it. Its story is quite interesting - see here. The public can get closer on Saturdays.

From the linked article: It consists of four floors and 340 rooms, with a floor area of 200,000 square feet (19,000 m[SUP]2[/SUP]), it was built using 700 million bricks and 3,000,000 cu ft (85,000 m[SUP]3[/SUP]) of stone with little steel and is or was the largest residence of a head of state in the world.


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LH pic shows the ceremonial 4 lions kept by India as a state symbol; RH pic part of the administrative buildings that share the area with the Rashtrapati Bhavan

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As we left the Presidential precinct, the police and army suddenly made their presence more obvious and barricades started appearing across the roads. Uh, oh ... what's up?

With much blowing of whistles and angry gesticulation the traffic was kept well back while the prime Ministerial motorcade roared through! RH pic is more of the admin buildings in the area.

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Last stop was the Lotus Temple, built in the 1980s for the Baha'i. Again, its set in large, relatively peaceful grounds. There is a lot of green open space around New Delhi, and in parts of old Delhi as well.

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When I got back to the Shangri-La, I discovered that the internet was barely working. I called 0 and asked what was up, expecting to be told some nebulous problem which can't be fixed ... or it was my computer etc. Nope - was told straight out that there was a problem, and wouldn't be fixed until the next day. Phooey! I retreated to the lounge and mentioned the issue to the guy at the entrance. Good bloke - he said that doesn't sound right, so he called IT. About 10 mins later Mr IT appears (impressive!) and he explains that there is a 'VIP IT function' on in the ballroom ( I had noticed it - lots of suits etc) and that the hotel had given over 90 to 95% of its bandwidth to it! Incredulous, I asked if that meant guests just miss out - yes, he confirmed it quite straightforwardly (apologising ...).

Well, that's a red rag to a bull - I went down and asked for the Duty Manager. I explained the situation to her very politely but leaving no doubt in her mind that I was unimpressed and that it was the Hotel Management treating the guests with contempt, as far as I could tell. She wasn't aware of the issue, so called ... and I could see from her changing expression that it was being confirmed to her.

To her credit, she organised for IT to give me a 4G/Wi-Fi hot spot which fixed my problem, but its just appalling that the hotel (Shangri-La) simply turned off the internet for their guests in favour of a private function. My biggest pet peeve - when hotels charge their gusts for hotel facilities, then re-sell those facilities to third parties and deny them to guests.

When I went back to my room, there was a bottle of red and some nice chokkies there - unfortunately I was dead tired and left both of them behind when I checked out the next day. Hope the cleaners took advantage!

Next day it was an approx 280km drive to Jaipur. The highway was generally good - 2 to 3 lanes each way and we could do 80-100km/hr, but with zones of construction which slowed things down, and a number of small towns where things descended to the usual horn honking and inching past bikes, motorbikes and pedestrians. Good roads shown:

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But it took about 5 hours in all. One major problem was the toll gates. As you may know, the Indian Govt abolished the higher denomination notes overnight without warning a couple of weeks ago, in a campaign against black market cash (which is huge and the measure is sort of succeeding). However the replacement notes are barely circulating, and this has caused a nationwide shortage of small change. Toll booths were an early victim, with no-one having change to pay the tolls. So for a couple of weeks the toll booths went free.

Unfortunately the day we travelled was the day they re-introduced tolls - and it was pandemonium (even on an Indian scale). We spent about an hour in gridlock behind 2 toll plazas and of course the Indians in their usual fashion made it a free for all of trucks, motorcycles and cars. Our guy quickly went to the shoulder, as did many others, and there was 2 to 3 'lanes' of cars on the sandy shoulder, in addition to the 4 or 5 lanes of cars occupying the three marked lanes of the highway. Not a place for the faint hearted (LH pic). After about 3/4 hrs behind the second jam, inching forward as those at the front struggled to, or refused to pay, the lines suddenly started moving. The operators had decided to open up several of the lanes, and the clearest way through was the shoulder area. So 'everyone' surged into that area, where we were and immediately clogged up the exits (RH pic) . :evil:

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Finally, we reached Jaipur, population about 4 million and the capital of Rajasthan state. It was founded on 18 November 1726 by Maharaja Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amer after whom the city is named. So its actually a 'new' and 'planned' city.

The old town is known as the 'Pink City', but its actually terra cotta colour. I think one of the British Royal family visited and admired some of the terra cotta coloured buildings, so it became a municipal law that all buildings in the old town (within the city walls) had to be painted that colour. And they are. Just a few views to set the scene.

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Great trip report so far RooFlyer. You're getting me excited for my first trip to India in two weeks time!
 
We arrived in Jaipur mid afternoon and I checked into the Hilton. I was given a Hhonours floor room - the 8th. Unfortunately (from my selfish point of view) its 'wedding season' in India and there was one celebration on the 10th floor entertainment area, which was already rocking. Informed that this would likely go till late, I retreated to the identical room on the 5th floor, where silence prevailed (for the time being!).

We headed out for the City Palace. It was built about 1730 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II the ruler of Amer kingdom and has continued until today as the seat of the Maharajas (Kings) of Jaipur. The Royal residence is the yellow building in the right in the pic below and is off limits to the public. The remainer is a museum.

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There are a number of pavilions in the complex.

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Various gates to the inner courtyard (Pritam Niwas Chowk) are auspicious for various Hindu Gods and richly decorated.

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On the left is one of two solid silver urns, each 1.6m high and weighing 340kgs in total which were made for Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II to carry water from the Ganges for him to drink when he visited England in 1901.

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Part of the City Palace complex, but across the road, is the observatory, or Jantar Mantar, also built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II and completed 1734. Its an amazing collection of astrological and time-measuring instruments. Its worth reading about here. On the left is the world's largest sundial, accurate to 2 seconds. On the right various other instruments.


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On the way out, we passed the Observatory Gang and exited out one of the city gates.

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Late in the day we drove out to the Amer, or Amber Palace, a little way out of town, to view it at night (ie lit up). You go past the Jai Mahal, or 'Water Palace' apparently built by Jai Sing II as a base for shooting ducks. The lake is artificial, with first dammed around 1600, and proper construction using stone a bit later. The place has had several phases of renovation, but I don't think its open to inspection. The shore based viewing platform is a bit rank.

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We drove onto the Amer, or Amber Fort/Palace. It was late afternoon by the time we arrived, as we were to visit after dark, to see it illuminated. We came back the next day so I could get some shots of the outside well illuminated.

The town of Amer is located about 12km north of Jaipur. Amer was the capital of Amer kingdom from 1036 until 1727 when Maharajah Jai Singh II moved his capital to Jaipur. (The Maharajahs of the many various Indian Kingdoms lived under the Mughal Emperors as vassals, paying tribute to the Emperor. The Amer/Jaipur Maharajahs were more closely aligned to the Muhgals than most of the other Indian rulers. ) Much of the Amer Fort/Palace was built by Raja Man Singh who ruled from 1590 to 1614 AD. I ts all UNESCO World heritage, as are most of the structures mentioned to date.

The first thing you see is this fantastic sweep. On the hills above the palace is Jaigarh Fort built in 1726 to protect the palace. It has very thick walls, which are about 8km around.

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Some of the exterior in more detail:

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More of Jaigarh Fort.

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The night visit was designed to avoid large crowds that visit during the day. While it achieved that (there were very few when we went!), the interior is generally not well lit, and many lights are coloured (blue, pink) so my photographs didn't turn out well. Here are a couple of aspects of the large courtyard you enter through:

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Inside is some nice artistic work, including frescos:

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If you have chance when in Xi'an I recommend Mt Hua Shan - "The most steep and perilous mountain under the sun" according to the signs where our walk started from.

Take the cable car up too. The walk from the base involves a really hairy vertical section and is to be avoided! There's still plenty of walking from the cable car anyway.
 
The next day was scheduled to start with a balloon ride, hopefully over the Amer Palace etc. A 5:15am pick up from the hotel meant a rapid zig-zag through town picking up some other pax, and then we headed north for about 3/4 hour into the true rural area. There, the sun rose as the balloons began inflation and then ... it all stopped. No wind at all; small test balloons went straight up and disappeared. The flight was cancelled and we returned to our hotels. Refund coming.

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After breakfast my tour continued, first visiting the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur old town. It was built in 1799 and is essentially a 15m high screened viewing platform for the palace women to view the street festivals.

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Next we drove back out towards the Amer Palace/Fort but turned left up the escarpment to the Nahargarh Fort and the Madhavendra Palace. The fort was built around 1734 as a defence for Jairpur. The attached palace is rther modest as far as palaces go, but has some impressive views.


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On the right is a 'stepped well' - a reservoir which has steps leading down to it to access water as the level fell.

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