A short(ish) trip to Japan

[ShelleyB]

I love Kamikochi!
But yes it can be quite crowded....especially around Kappabashi area!

We absolutely enjoyed it and the crowds were not unexpected. I expect it will be crazier in a month or so with the autumn colours really on display.

 

[ShelleyB]

After concluding our walk ShelleyB-son consumed a well-earned ice cream and we joined the queue for the bus back to Takayama via Hirayu onsen. The queue was long as it was nearing the end of the day, but with the use of the jump seats in the bus, we all squeezed on. There were fewer passengers once we changed at Hirayu, as people transferred to their cars, or were staying in Hirayu Onsen. Upon return to Takayama, we were all hungry enough to eat right away, but tired enough not to wander too far. Decided to take our chances on a place that looked good, although has mixed reviews on Tablelog - Kajibashi Soba. Is mostly a noodle place serving Takayama Noodles (basically ramen with a local twist) but also gyoza and beef. Noodles were good, with a tasty broth. The gyoza was really excellent.

 

[ShelleyB]

Another big day of hiking planned, this time using the Shinhotaka Ropeway to do a lot of the work of getting us to a higher elevation. The bus is around 1.5 hours from Takayama, again via Hirayu Onsen but without the need to change bus. The ropeway itself is two part, with a change station at an intermediate level. There are souvenir shops and places to eat at each station. We did not stop on the way up, as we were eager to commence our walk to the Nishiho-sanso mountain hut, which is about 4km from the top ropeway station. The ropeway ride is amazing, and from the second station the cars are double level, which is pretty cool. At each level there are short nature walks, and platforms for viewing, with more under construction.

 

[ShelleyB]

From the top station past the viewing platforms is the trailhead to Nishiho mountain hut and to other trails beyond. Many climbers use the ropeway for access to the Nishi-hotake-dake climb, staying overnight at the mountain hut then climbing the next day. However, for us we planned to just reach the hut, a roughly 4km 1.5 hour trip (3 hours return). The trip is mostly through pine forest, with glimpses of the mountain range. There is very little flat walking, it’s fairly relentlessly up or down, with the last 1km or so relatively steeply up. Nonetheless, it is totally doable by anyone of moderate fitness, there is not much scrambling, and it was being tackled by many locals of 60 and 70 years plus. Possibly older. Although I don’t want to give the impression it was a busy or crowded walk. It was really quite quiet, especially after Kamikochi. Enough people to feel that if anyone managed to acquire an injury, help would not be far away, but mostly walking without anyone in view.

The reward for the hard work was an amazing views of the mountains beyond. The hut also serves noodles and curry and has cold drinks. After sampling the foods on offer, and admiring the sight of riduculously fit retirees ready to tackle the summit, we took our less fit selves back to the ropeway for the descent and bus back to Takayama.

 

[ShelleyB]

Our next destination was Kanazawa, transiting there on the Nohi bus express via Shirakawa-go. We were tempted to arrange a few hours in Shirakawa-go as the village has world heritage status for its Gassho style houses. However, we would have been a bit hamstrung by the luggage. Coin lockers are available but Io was concerned might be occupied given the popularity of the village. Sadly our Takayama hotel don’t arrange luggage transfers so we would have needed ro find a local desk for Black Cat. In the end we decided against the extra hassle.

The bus trip was efficient, although not as scenic as I hoped. The expressway contains a lot of really long tunnels through the mountains. Nonetheless, it’s quicker than the train and interesting enough. About 2/3rds of the passsengers disembarked in Shirakawa-go and were not quite completely replaced. The town looked to be packed with tourists.

In Kanazawa we had booked the Square Hotel. It’s the only time we were not staying right near a station, as none of the station hotels had triples at a sensible price (or at all). The Square hotel was around a 15 min walk away, so not too bad. And despite arriving 30 minutes before check in time, we were checked in right away and able to head directly to the room, a rarity in Japan. Our room was also excellent, very spacious.

After dropping the luggage we walked out to the Kanazawa castle and Kenrouken garden area for an explore. The castle area was not too busy but we did not stop for long as we were all keen to see the garden, which is rated as one of the top 3 in Japan.

Just outside the garden we induged in an ice-cream style that Kanazawa has marketed very successfully to both international and domestic tourists - ice cream topped with gold foil. The idea is that as Kanazawa is the source of almost all gold foil in Japan, why not put it on food? Anyway, we ate our super expensive soft serve, which ShelleyB-son enjoyed so much he spent the rest of the day begging for another.

The entry fee for the garden is 350 yen per adult, which we felt was very reasonable. The garden is fantastic. Luckily Kanazawa is yet to be quite as heavily visited as other Japanese towns, so although the garden was busy, it was not so packed as to be annoying. If the same garden were in Kyoto, it would probably be impossible to move.













Note: edited for spelling.

 

[drron]

When travelling Japan most convenience stores are agents for Takubin. certainly 7/11 and Family mart though no success at Lawsons though I believe some of them do. There are quite a few hotels won't arrange luggage transfers. Crowne Plazas for example but they always have a convenience store which will do it.

As for Kenrokuen just go in peak cherry blossom time. More than packed as they give up and everyone allowed in free.

 

[rbjhan]

I have never came across a hotel where ta-q-bin is unavailable... Learn something new today!
Mercure and CP, hmmm, something to do with non Japanese hotel chains?

 

[ShelleyB]

I have never came across a hotel where ta-q-bin is unavailable... Learn something new today!
Mercure and CP, hmmm, something to do with non Japanese hotel chains?

Quite possibly. Had checked via email before arrival so knew they did not do so. As @drron said, could have dropped at 7-11 but decided against the extra effort.

 

[ShelleyB]

After a few hours in Kenrokuen, headed back towards to the hotel. Mr. ShelleyB and ShelleyB-son headed directly back to the room, but I took a little detour via Hands store to purchase the 2025 calendar refills for my Traveler’s Company notebook, which I have been using from last year.

For dinner we all agreed on yakitori. Our first choice was Bird Yakitori near the station but it was booked out. We therefore headed to the nearby Wai Wai. This place seemed to be entirely populated by locals and had only a Japanese menu. However, with my very rudimentary Japanese, plus google translate, managed an extremely satisfactory dinner. Prices were very reasonable, with many drinks and many skewers coming in a very reasonable 8200 yen for the 3 of us. The bill for the table next to us, 6 office workers kicking up their heels, would have been substantially higher with the skewers and the beer flowing all evening.







Edited to correct pricing

 

[pagingjoan]

Enjoying your trip report - but hoping that there was an errant zero on your dinner bill - 82000 Yen?

 

[ShelleyB]

Enjoying your trip report - but hoping that there was an errant zero on your dinner bill - 82000 Yen?

Yes indeed! Will edit now

 

[pagingjoan]

Yes indeed! Will edit now

Phew!
Those zeros do lead to some head scratching early morning and late night moments.
“Is this an absolute bargain or way out of my price range?’