It was a shame to have to leave São Paulo early on Friday morning but I had a wedding to get to!
I have some friends in the Brazilian city of Belo Horizonte that I met in Germany and visited last year here in Brazil. Well, they just got married on the weekend and I was invited to the wedding. It was always going to be a bit of a long shot making it to the other side of the world on a specific day, but in this case I was able to make it work!
My alarm failed to go off in the morning, which could have ended in disaster as I woke up after the time I had actually planned to leave for the airport! But the trip to the airport ended up taking just 55 minutes using the metro + taxi method, so I made it to the airport in time.
Flight 7: JJ3053 São Paulo (Congonhas) – Belo Horizonte
Airbus A320 | PR-MBS
Departure time – 10:05 (Actual – 10:35)
Arrival time – scheduled for 11:18 (Actual – not even close to the scheduled time… keep reading)
When I arrived at Congonhas airport that morning I noticed that none of the flights bound for Belo Horizonte had actually departed yet. There were four flights before mine that morning and all were displaying “Meteorological delay”. My flight was initially displaying as normal, but I wasn't surprised when a small delay was announced. In the end we pushed back only 30 minutes behind schedule.
The departures board that morning (I realise it's in Portuguese, sorry):
As I boarded, I noticed that a lady was already sitting in my allocated seat of 3F. I told the flight attendant and she said “Oh, there’s free seating on this flight. Just sit in any vacant seat.” (Um? So why did I have a seat number on my boarding pass then? And why wasn't this the case on my other 3 TAM flights over the past week?)
The flight otherwise began reasonably well. The usual ham and cheese bread roll and drink was served and I happened to get served by a flight attendant who spoke English very well, which was a nice change.
The weather was not good at all when we began our descent into Belo Horizonte. The visibility was so bad, in fact, that you couldn't even see the wingtip out the window. Unsurprisingly, the captain came over the PA to advise us that Belo Horizonte’s airport was temporarily closed and that he expected us to remain in a holding pattern for the next twenty minutes.
Twenty minutes or so later the captain advised that the airport was still closed and as a result we would have to return to Congonhas Airport in São Paulo. This announcement (and all the rest after it) was only made in Portuguese, but the English-speaking flight attendant actually came to my seat to explain what the captain had said and to ask if I had any questions.
The plane did a 180 and started heading back to São Paulo. Around 30 minutes later the captain advised that ATC in São Paulo had given the flight a holding time of 50 minutes and as we didn't have enough fuel to hold for that long, we would be diverting instead to somewhere called Campinas.
Each time a new announcement was made, the flight attendant came to my seat to inform me. I am fairly sure that I was the only non-Brazilian on the flight, so maybe she thought it was easier just to pass on news in person than to make a PA for one person. Either way, I thought that was very nice of her.
But at this point I knew it wasn't going to end well. It didn't.
We eventually landed at Viracopos Airport in Campinas just before 1pm. Viracopos Airport, or VCP, is located about 100km north of São Paulo. Once we had landed, nobody knew what was going to happen. They kept us all on the plane for over an hour while we refuelled. At 1.40pm they announced that the airport in Belo Horizonte had re-opened and we would be departing again in twenty minutes. We didn't. 2pm came and we hadn't moved anywhere. It was getting very hot inside the plane.
Waiting on the plane at VCP:
By around 2.30pm they announced that the airport had closed again and that we all had to get off the plane and wait in the terminal for further instructions.
I should point out that the cabin crew did an exceptionally good job of keeping passengers informed, retaining order and providing drinks while we were stuck in the plane on the ground. A special mention goes out to Laura, the flight attendant who kept me informed in English with a smile on her face. Sadly, the order and communication well and truly went down the drain the second we left the plane.
We disembarked at around 2.30pm and nobody had a clue what was going on. We waited inside the crowded terminal for an announcement but none was forthcoming. Nobody at the airport could speak English but I was fortunate that an English-speaking girl who was sitting near me on the flight helped me a lot. However, even she didn't know what was going on as a Portuguese speaker. No-one did. After a while we noticed many of the passengers from our flight were walking to the baggage claim area so we followed them there to find that our bags had magically appeared on the carrousel.
Inside the terminal at Campinas:
Once we had collected our bags someone mentioned something about a bus. We were escorted to the carpark where a couple of rickety old buses awaited us.
This is the crowd of passengers but our bus wasn't as nice as the ones in this photo...
Campinas is about a two hour drive from São Paulo so it seems that someone thought it would be a good idea to send us back there. We originally thought they would send us on buses to Guarulhos, São Paulo’s bigger airport (which is also closer to Campinas!) but we learned upon boarding that we were in fact heading back to Congonhas.
Some passengers left at Campinas but I didn't see the point in doing that myself - we were barely closer to our destination and I wouldn't have had a clue what to do. I'd never even heard of Campinas before. Besides, if I left then TAM would technically no longer be responsible for getting me to my destination.
The buses left around 3pm and reached Congonhas at 5.40pm. (We spent a LOT of time stuck in São Paulo traffic!) There was definitely no air-conditioning on the bus. More than seven hours since we had taken off, we were right back where we started. I assumed they would be putting us on new flights out of Congonhas, so you can imagine my surprise when we were escorted to… yet more buses!
There was no way I wanted to get on a bus to Belo Horizonte at this point. The journey would be around 600km and I was already over it. I asked a TAM employee if she could please explain to me in English what was going on and she pulled me aside while she looked for someone who could translate. Eventually she found someone and the lady basically just told me to get on the bus. I protested and said I would like to get on a flight but the lady insisted I should board the bus. My main gripe though is that some of the things she was saying to convince me to get on the bus were simply not true. Some things included:
- “The bus to Belo Horizonte takes 6 hours. You will arrive at midnight” – not true, it took 10 hours and we arrived at 4.30am the next morning.
- “No flights have landed in Belo Horizonte for two days” – again, simply not true. Hardly any flights were cancelled the previous day. On that day there had indeed been bad weather and a number of flights had been cancelled, however many flights had indeed landed there, and they continued to do so that evening and the next morning.
- I asked if I would get a refund. “Yes you will, see the ground staff at Confins (the airport in Belo Horizonte)” – there were none there when we arrived, and when I went back the next day they told me they couldn't process a refund at the airport and I should call a certain number. I will do so tomorrow and keep you posted with the outcome, but I’m not holding my breath.
- Finally, I asked why on earth they put us on buses to Congonhas, only to then put us onto new buses to Belo Horizonte. São Paulo is not at all between Campinas and Belo Horizonte, and I would estimate the detour added 4 hours of travel time if you consider the traffic in São Paulo. The lady told me that it was in fact quicker to come first back to São Paulo. Um, did she think I couldn't read a map? Just because I'm a gringo doesn't mean I'm stupid!
Ordinarily I would have persisted and tried to get on a flight anyway, even if it meant overnighting in São Paulo. Sitting on a bus all night was not an attractive option. (If I wanted to take a bus, I would have bought a bus ticket - and I would almost be there already!) But my friends’ wedding was the next day and I didn't want to risk missing it, so just gave in and boarded the bus. Upon boarding, everyone received a single bottle of water and two sandwiches. That was the only food provided during the entire delay. And get this – I asked if I could have a second bottle of water and the lady said no!
After 10 hours on what felt like the longest bus trip of my life, we finally arrived in Belo Horizonte at 4.30am the next morning, or just over 17 hours late. TAM had somehow managed to make a one hour flight into an 18 hour nightmare - quite an achievement!
When we arrived I was tired, hungry and frankly angry with TAM over the way they handled the whole situation. I wasn't the only one. I can understand if there is bad weather and I’m not suggesting for a second that they should have attempted to land if it is not safe to do so. But the lack of organisation, communication and even food during the whole ordeal was appalling. So many things went wrong that it's not funny. Just imagine the outcry if this happened in Australia!
On a positive note, it’s great to be back in Belo Horizonte. It’s been nice to see my friends again and the wedding was a blast! As I expected, I was the only non-Brazilian at the wedding but I was able to befriend a few English speakers so it was fine in that regard.
My friends have now left on their honeymoon and I will be in Belo Horizonte for one more night before I head off to my next destination.