Bulgaria, Kosovo and Macedonia

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After the tour, there was supposed to be an 'optional welcome dinner', but there was no mention of this when our main guide briefed us on the next day's activities (leaving at a leisurely 10:00am) and then bade us good-bye for the day, so several of us went to 'Moma' restaurant for some Bulgarian fare. Fortunately most were interested in the wine - so we chose this Melnik (local grape variety) ay 40 LEV, abyt A$35. It was pretty light style and we were a bit sus with the ENglish label, but never mind. We are visiting the town of Melnik tomorrow, so will follow it up.

Found Melnik a nice enough place. I think you will enjoy the natural landscape/formations. Do you get to visit Veliko Tarnovo?
 
Day 2 of the tour dawned fine and warm. After a good latte at Chucky's coffee shop:

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We boarded our bus - a 16 seater Merc in a 2-1 config. Only 12 on the tour, so manageable.

We set off for the first stop for the day, the World Heritage listed Boyana church.

Side view, showing 3 stages of construction 11th century to the right, 13th century in the middle ( 2 stories) and 18th century on the left.

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Inside is timy, and the frescoes are breathtaking. Every surface is covered with them, numbering dozens; scenes from the Bible and gospels, local nobility etc. They are painted in 3 layers from the 11th, 13th and 16th centuries. Its amazing that they survived 4-500 years of Turkish occupation.

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St Nicholas:

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Found Melnik a nice enough place. I think you will enjoy the natural landscape/formations. Do you get to visit Veliko Tarnovo?

Didn't get to Veliko Tarnovo. Am in Melnik now; had an interesting experience at dinner last night - will tell in sequence, below.
 
From Boyana it was 2 hours to the World Heritage listed Rila monastery in the mountains south of Sofia.

Bulgaria, being in the EU, benefited from EU largess to build a new freeway, south to Greece. There is a section not yet competed, but otherwise its a magnificent road (zoomed on my iPhone through the front window of the bus)

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The countryside was green and scenic; we skirted a few mountains.

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Rila is located up on the slopes of the mountain pictured above.

The Rila Monastery was established in the 10th century and is the most important cultural site in Bulgaria and attracts nearky a million visitors annually.

On 3 sides are the accommodation quarters for the monks (not so many these days; in the courtyard is a church and a tower, the oldest structure, dating from the 1300s (as does the church). There are a number of museums within the monastery, for which you pay extra; I went to one and it wasn't very interesting .

The 14th Century church:

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Frescoes on outside of church (but under cover - they are from a later period)

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14th century tower. Underneath the left hand arch you can see the chute from a toilet on the upper room :eek:

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Some details from around the site:

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We then proceeded 2 more hours to Melnik, Bulgaria's' smallest town' at 400 people (??) and a 'famous' wine producing region.

Scenic drive in:

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Another hot (33 degrees) day - first order of business at the hotel:

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Its a sort of pretty village - in a ravine with 'hoodoos' or steep erosional scarps all around:

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Our guide recommended a restaurant at the edge of the village, so a group of us took off in pursuit - but not remembering the exact name. We found this place:

:rolleyes::oops:
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.. which wasn't the right place but it was OK.

Asked for beers and wine list. No wine list, only their own produced red or white wine. The white was undrinkable; the reds OK for a country brew. Beers were the order of the day:

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I went vege for dinner. Tomatoes and cucumber and cheese!!!!

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They do make some interesting wines, apparently:

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We had a dinner at a winery last night. Returning at abt 11 pm I was following our route on my phone and had to point out to guide that we had taken a wrong turn and we were heading the wrong way on the freeway! :(:mad:. Added an extra half hour ( to find a spot we could turn around) when we were already very tired. Not very happy, Jan.j
 
From Rila we drive West to the Macedonian border. Exit Bulgaria formalities, then enter Macedonia all done as bulk bus occupants.

Then on to a waterfall at Smolare, on the slopes of a mountain range separating Macedonia from Greece.
Pleasant walk through the forest up hill

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Falls not bad, worth getting some exercise.
 
I’m curious and somewhat surprised you are doing an organised tour as you strike me as someone who prefers the adventurous independent trip. How are you finding all the ‘organisation’ process and your travel companions?
 
OK, I decided to skip lunch (see 'negatives' below), so will go to the question of organised tours. This is a general reply, so the 'you' isn't necessarily you, Pushka.

I always went totally independent in my travel for years and years - all over western and central and parts of eastern Europe, USA/Canada, South America, St Petersburg, Moscow, eastern Africa, South Africa, Japan. Booked hotels, used hire cars etc. Lonely Planet was my guide. Not always by myself - I frequently traveled independently with friends.

Then, about 10 years ago, my interests started going east in Europe. So when I went to Romania, where I thought navigating and understanding a language not like French/Spanish/Italian would be a hassle with a car, I hired a private guide/tour. In general, you can either get a driver and a guide or a combined driver/guide, which is the best I think. And the Romanian tour was still one of the best I've ever had - very historically knowledgeable and personable guy was driver.guide. Although going private is obviously more expensive, you get the flexibility to add things (within limits) and you can go at your own pace. The latter is important to me - I hate dallying; I always like to squeeze as much out of a trip as I can.

After Romania, I did a private tour in Burma which was OK (guide had poor English), I've done 2 private tours in India (and am doing a third in December) - excellent value; Georgia, Azerbaijan, Sri Lanka, Jordan, Lake Baikal, Russia. India and Sri Lanker were AFF recommended tour guides. I went back to independent touring in Israel.

Basically my criteria for independent/vs private tour - is ... how much of a hassle will be dealing with a car (parking, risk of theft while its parked with all my gear in it) and how much of a hassle will it be if something goes wrong - communication , system of laws etc. St Petersburg, Moscow etc were just cities, so no cars.

So, a couple of years ago, @JohnM said he was going on an Exodus tour of Iran, which was very high on my list to visit. I couldn't imagine going independently to Iran, so I joined him on that - he's done many of their tours (and others) and recommended them. It was excellent; beforehand, of course I thought of all the horrors about tour groups I'd observed over the years - loud groups of Italians, pushy Japanese, rude Russians, the drama Queens, those who always keep the rest waiting etc. Hasn't eventuated, fortunately.

Exodus tours generally have a max of 16 pax (the 2 I've done had about 10 and 12) and use freelance tour guides and separate drivers of course. They tend to have a majority of Brits on them (its an English company), with Aussies, Canadians, some Americans.

Both trips I found my travelling companions all very easy to get along with. No PITA 'always late to the bus' or demanding or complaining. They are nearly all experienced travellers who can swap travel experiences and tips and understand that things don't always go as planned.

Organised tours like Exodus, in general PROS
In-depth history explanations and 'background' info on the country and district
Hotels organised, 3-4 star in the places I've gone. You can be pretty sure it will be 'comfortable enough' even if not what you would have automatically chosen
Meals part included, or easy tips on where to go
Advice on customs, shopping, eating, etc
Cheaper than private tours
Go to places difficult with independent travel (at least at my age - 59).
Tickets organised, photo ops usually well thought of
Some support if a health issue arises (again, I recognise that I have a few ailments that if they flare up, could put me in an awkward spot if I was by myself).

CONS
Generally inflexible. On this trip, we have varied the schedule a little by consensus, but that might not suit an individual
Lunches on this trip to me are a problem. We often have sit-down lunches over 1-2 hours, or allow that time for people to find their own. To me this iust a tremendous waste of time - I'l happy with a banana for lunch and to keep moving along.
Things which i would otherwise certainly plan to visit might be skipped.
On this trip we do have a couple who usually lag the group walks and usually join the group when the guide is explaining the stop, standing at the back continuing their chat. This is more rude than a problem.

I am doing Exodus' '5 Stans' tour in a couple of months. Again I couldn't imagine doing this independently (although a few AFFers have done chunks of it independently) and it would be too expensive as a private tour, and a nightmare to organise. This Balkans tour is one which is an odd one out. I have seen AFF trip reports and realised it could be done independently, but I wanted to do the area this year and I just haven't had much time to organise. So when I saw the trip, and the itinerary, I just booked it. 5% discount for a repeat Exodus client.

That was probably way too much detail. Yes, I am an independent traveler, but I realise tours can access places that independent travel is difficult; you learn a great deal and, of course, its easier to arrange. And, yes, health is coming into it a bit now for me. Balkans tour is a bit of an exception though.
 
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Continuing

From the waterfall we drove west, roughly paralleling the border with Greece to the south. It was another hot afternoon - abt 34 degrees. Next stop was a roman archaeological site and the tour leader asked the bus if we wanted to skip it maybe for tomorrow. Easy consensus was no, lets go ahead.

We drove through a town - I still don't have the name Cossie, - where we saw lots of storks atop poles:

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Countryside continued green and lush, even though it was the middle of summer.

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Roads were excellent - more EU cash, even though Macedonia isn't part of the EU. This freeway connects Athens to the south with the EU to the north, hence the EU cash. All the roads we have been on have been pretty good, and little bad driving by the locals seen.

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We entered the major wine growing region of Macedonia and were going to a winery for dinner and a 'tasting'.

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A bit of homework for when you are in Skopje.

I was driving mini buses in 1970 and one of the stops in Skopje was at 450-Year Clock Tower in Skopje.
We were told that the hands of the clock were stopped when an earthquake hit in 1963 and hadn't moved since.
After Yugoslavia fell there was some vandalism and this clock received some attention.
I would be grateful if you could ask your guide if he knows what happened to this clock tower.
 
We visited the archaeological site at Stobi, almost in the center of Macedonia, where a Roman city is being excavated (very slowly). Formerly Paeonia, it stood on the main Roman road from the Aegean Sea north to the Danube.

From Wikipedia:

The city was first mentioned in writing by the historian Livy, in connection with a victory of Philip V of Macedon over the Dardani in 197 BC. In 168 BC, the Romans defeated Perseus and Macedonia was divided into four nominally independent republics. In 148 BC, the four areas of Macedonia were brought together in a unified Roman province. In the reign of Augustus the city grew in size and population. The city grew further in 69 BC once it became a municipium, at which time it began to produce coins printed with Municipium Stobensium. The citizens of Stobi enjoyed Ius Italicum and were citizens of Rome. Most belonged to the Roman tribes Aemila and Tromentina. During Roman times Stobi was the capital of the Roman province Macedonia Salutaris. Emperor Theodosius I stayed in Stobi in 388. Late in the 5th century the city underwent a terrible turn of events. In 479, it was robbed by Theodoric, an Ostrogothic king. The citizens reconstructed the city, but in 518 it was struck by a powerful earthquake. Avaro-Slavic invasions in the 6th century destroyed the city's economy and infrastructure.


The afternoon was still jolly hot and the group was flagging a bit. An ancient map showed how some of the sites we were to see today and later fitted together in Roman times. The Danube is flowing horizontally at the top. Stobi is next to the yellow mountain-looking thing near the middle; to the right of that is 'Sertica' (Sofia) ; to the south-east of that is 'Heraclea', which we will visit tomorrow.

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The site was interesting, but I've seen many more better preserved and interesting.


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LH side of the theater is original, RH side has been reconstructed as a representation.

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On the bus again, destination Vales and a dinner and 'wine tasting' at the Stobi winery.
 
Hotel - no pics; the Gardenia, which was comfortable enough, but there was a wedding on, so very noisy. We cleaned up and the bus took us 30 mins to the Stbi winery. We are in the Tikveš (tick-vesh) wine region, Macedonia's largest. Today, there are predominantly 20 different grape varieties grown in the Tikveš region. The local Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika comprise 80% of the total grape production.

A tour to start; this revealed a mid sized modern plant. White wine vessels of 80,000 litres each, reds 50,000 litres and a barrel room with 250,000 litre capacity. Only a small proportion of their wines sees any barrel aging.

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We repaired for dinner. The 'tasting' turned out to be a pairing and was disappointing. Quantities poured with the meal were just a bit more than a tasting amount. (Dinner and the wines were included in the tour cost).

First off was a 2017 Rkaciteli, the grape originating in Georgia. Completely insipid.

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Next a 2017 Chardonnay, not bad but also needs a lot more time

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Then a 2017 pinot noir - probably the best of the lot.
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Last, served half way through the main course was their flagship, a Vranec, a grape variety originating in Montenegro (I think I mistakenly said Bosnia elsewhere). It poured like black ink - amazing. But it was only 2016 and way underdone.

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We asked if we could buy one of their aged wines, to find out that there wasn't any past 2014 IIRC. I think they only started 10 years ago and may have only started their reds in 2014.

Main course, essentially a pork casserole:

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Now I know what 'bus tour' tastings are like :rolleyes:

We headed home at 11pm on the bus, taking a back road rather than the freeway, seemingly to avoid paying a toll. When nearly at Vales, the road re-joined the freeway, and we carried on. As usual, I was checking our progress on maps.me application and quickly realised we had taken a wrong turn and were heading back to the winery!! We alerted the tour leader, but we couldn't turn around on the freeway until the toll plaza, so it was a long trip home. :mad:
 
OK, I decided to skip lunch (see 'negatives' below), so will go to the question of organised tours. This is a general reply, so the 'you' isn't necessarily you, Pushka.

I always went totally independent in my travel for years and years - all over western and central and parts of eastern Europe, USA/Canada, South America, St Petersburg, Moscow, eastern Africa, South Africa, Japan. Booked hotels, used hire cars etc. Lonely Planet was my guide. Not always by myself - I frequently traveled independently with friends.

Then, about 10 years ago, my interests started going east in Europe. So when I went to Romania, where I thought navigating and understanding a language not like French/Spanish/Italian would be a hassle with a car, I hired a private guide/tour. In general, you can either get a driver and a guide or a combined driver/guide, which is the best I think. And the Romanian tour was still one of the best I've ever had - very historically knowledgeable and personable guy was driver.guide. Although going private is obviously more expensive, you get the flexibility to add things (within limits) and you can go at your own pace. The latter is important to me - I hate dallying; I always like to squeeze as much out of a trip as I can.

After Romania, I did a private tour in Burma which was OK (guide had poor English), I've done 2 private tours in India (and am doing a third in December) - excellent value; Georgia, Azerbaijan, Sri Lanka, Jordan, Lake Baikal, Russia. India and Sri Lanker were AFF recommended tour guides. I went back to independent touring in Israel.

Basically my criteria for independent/vs private tour - is ... how much of a hassle will be dealing with a car (parking, risk of theft while its parked with all my gear in it) and how much of a hassle will it be if something goes wrong - communication , system of laws etc. St Petersburg, Moscow etc were just cities, so no cars.

So, a couple of years ago, @JohnM said he was going on an Exodus tour of Iran, which was very high on my list to visit. I couldn't imagine going independently to Iran, so I joined him on that - he's done many of their tours (and others) and recommended them. It was excellent; beforehand, of course I thought of all the horrors about tour groups I'd observed over the years - loud groups of Italians, pushy Japanese, rude Russians, the drama Queens, those who always keep the rest waiting etc. Hasn't eventuated, fortunately.

Exodus tours generally have a max of 16 pax (the 2 I've done had about 10 and 12) and use freelance tour guides and separate drivers of course. They tend to have a majority of Brits on them (its an English company), with Aussies, Canadians, some Americans.

Both trips I found my travelling companions all very easy to get along with. No PITA 'always late to the bus' or demanding or complaining. They are nearly all experienced travellers who can swap travel experiences and tips and understand that things don't always go as planned.

Organised tours like Exodus, in general PROS
In-depth history explanations and 'background' info on the country and district
Hotels organised, 3-4 star in the places I've gone. You can be pretty sure it will be 'comfortable enough' even if not what you would have automatically chosen
Meals part included, or easy tips on where to go
Advice on customs, shopping, eating, etc
Cheaper than private tours
Go to places difficult with independent travel (at least at my age - 59).
Tickets organised, photo ops usually well thought of
Some support if a health issue arises (again, I recognise that I have a few ailments that if they flare up, could put me in an awkward spot if I was by myself).

CONS
Generally inflexible. On this trip, we have varied the schedule a little by consensus, but that might not suit an individual
Lunches on this trip to me are a problem. We often have sit-down lunches over 1-2 hours, or allow that time for people to find their own. To me this iust a tremendous waste of time - I'l happy with a banana for lunch and to keep moving along.
Things which i would otherwise certainly plan to visit might be skipped.
On this trip we do have a couple who usually lag the group walks and usually join the group when the guide is explaining the stop, standing at the back continuing their chat. This is more rude than a problem.

I am doing Exodus' '5 Stans' tour in a couple of months. Again I couldn't imagine doing this independently (although a few AFFers have done chunks of it independently) and it would be too expensive as a private tour, and a nightmare to organise. This Balkans tour is one which is an odd one out. I have seen AFF trip reports and realised it could be done independently, but I wanted to do the area this year and I just haven't had much time to organise. So when I saw the trip, and the itinerary, I just booked it. 5% discount for a repeat Exodus client.

That was probably way too much detail. Yes, I am an independent traveler, but I realise tours can access places that independent travel is difficult; you learn a great deal and, of course, its easier to arrange. And, yes, health is coming into it a bit now for me. Balkans tour is a bit of an exception though.
Thankyou and that explains a lot. The very long lunches would do us in too! Who wants to sit around and eat at lunchtime when there’s things to see and experience. I understand why you are doing this one and we will be doing similar in Israel and Jordan.
 
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