Chile and Antarctica cruise

RooFlyer · Dec 17, 2023

Thanks all for your kind words. As they say: "21 today"

It was a ... surreal night. Think 30 rescue dogs, a 'priceless' art collection, 9 Chileans going hammer and tongs in the table discussion and some 100% hand made, 'natural' wine made by our host, a very senior Chilean diplomat. Oh, and an asparagus pizza.

More later.

RooFlyer · Dec 18, 2023

Backing up a bit and continuing the tour of Montgras.

A pretty bog standard wine making process

Then to the tasting - three wines

The chardonnay was unoaked and quite refreshing. The cab sav OK to good, but the highlight for me was always going to be the Carmenere. A speciality of Chile, I discovered it a few years ago when in Puerto Montt with @JohnM and some other friends. Fabulous wine

I must have made some sort of impression, as my host then brought out 2 extra wines to taste (or maybe they do that with everyone

)

Their 'top of the line' 'Maxima' cab sav. I thought it was pretty good, but not as good as a Barossa. Much less cellaring potential also.

Ditto the Ninquen blend. Fun fact. In Chile, if its a blend, but has at least 85% of one grape type, they dopn't have to say its a blend - anywhere on the bottle. 85% cab sav and 15% merlot will be labelled just 'cab sav'.

Then to their museum

So that was a great start. I bought a bottle of the Carmenere in memory of one of the friends who was at Puerto Montt.

RooFlyer · Dec 18, 2023

Next winery was nearby - Maquis and I was joined by a very nice American couple.

Winery not a patch on the previous one - concrete slabs, outside and in. But they proudly pointed out that they have 'gone green' and are allowing the building to be covered with a climber

The tasting is done on that climber-covered terrace on the upper floor.

Obligatory walk around, showing their eco-efforts; this time a wetland and associated riverine plants

I learned that you can tell a Carmanere vine by the red tips

To the tasting. Calcu is their lesser brand, from another district.

Cab Franc is another of the mainstays here.

We asked if we might taste their top-of-the-range 'Viola", and she agreed, but apologised that the bottle was opened the day before (about 1/2 full with cork replaced). Mainly Carmenere with a bit of cab franc https://www.maquis.cl/en/nuestros-vinos/viola/

At about A$150 a pop it was very disappointing. Maybe because it was opened for a day, but even so not at all to my taste.

Then my tour guy came right on time and dropped me off at my new digs.

JohnM · Dec 18, 2023

RooFlyer said:
Ditto the Ninquen blend. Fun fact. In Chile, if its a blend, but has at least 85% of one grape type, they dopn't have to say its a blend - anywhere on the bottle. 85% cab sav and 15% merlot will be labelled just 'cab sav'.

That's standard: The blending rules.

RooFlyer · Dec 18, 2023

I showed pics of the wonderful boutique hotel in post #44. A drawback was that my hosts spoke no English, although they understood some. Their son spoke a bit, so he was hauled in for interactions too complex for Google Translate.

I asked the son where would be a good restaurant for dinner would be, as it was my birthday. He suggested one very close, which worked for me.

A little later he appeared at my room and said his parents wondered if I would like to join them going to a small winery dinner owned by a very interesting guy. Of course I said yes!

A 6:30 departure ended up being about 7:45pm and off we went in their Merc coupe for the 30 min drive to Clos Santa Ana.

Our host it turns out is an urbane retired former Ambassador for Chile, who by the sound of it had postings in many countries around the world, and learned the language of a fair few of them! Also two in the kitchen, one obviously a good mate of the host. We stared off in a lovely patio in front of a large, purpose-built dining room and attached kitchen and bathrooms. I didn't take many pics of the social occasion as it wasn't that sort of night (to start with!). There were 8 guests, - a couple from an a joining small winery, others just a range if host's friends, including someone of Italian heritage. The host slipped effortlessly from Spanish to English and Italian.

The winey is very, very small and produces 100% 'natural' wines - no technology used, all by hand (and feet). All blends. Dogs are in the logo and labels.

It rates an entry in:

The connection with dogs soon became apparent. Dogs are everywhere in Chile - not many roaming the streets, fortunately, but everyone seems to own 2 to 3 to 4. And they are noisy. There were 5 or 6 dogs that were with us all evening, sized from a Labrador down to a terrier, all very friendly, but in total there are about 30 'rescue' dogs here. Some would regularly go belting across the lawn, through the dining hall, back out again ...

Patio and dining room to the right.

Kitchen and our chef for the evening. The asparagus ...

It was going to be pizza night. Herb garden out back

Seat0B · Dec 18, 2023

Sounds like a great experience!

TheRealTMA · Dec 18, 2023

RooFlyer said:
I showed pics of the wonderful boutique hotel in post #44. A drawback was that my hosts spoke no English, although they understood some. Their son spoke a bit, so he was hauled in for interactions too complex for Google Translate.

I asked the son where would be a good restaurant for dinner would be, as it was my birthday. He suggested one very close, which worked for me.

A little later he appeared at my room and said his parents wondered if I would like to join them going to a small winery dinner owned by a very interesting guy. Of course I said yes!

A 6:30 departure ended up being about 7:45pm and off we went in their Merc coupe for the 30 min drive to Clos Santa Ana.

Our host it turns out is an urbane retired former Ambassador for Chile, who by the sound of it had postings in many countries around the world, and learned the language of a fair few of them! Also two in the kitchen, one obviously a good mate of the host. We stared off in a lovely patio in front of a large, purpose-built dining room and attached kitchen and bathrooms. I didn't take many pics of the social occasion as it wasn't that sort of night (to start with!). There were 8 guests, - a couple from an a joining small winery, others just a range if host's friends, including someone of Italian heritage. The host slipped effortlessly from Spanish to English and Italian.

The winey is very, very small and produces 100% 'natural' wines - no technology used, all by hand (and feet). All blends. Dogs are in the logo and labels.

View attachment 359234

View attachment 359247

It rates an entry in:

View attachment 359260

The connection with dogs soon became apparent. Dogs are everywhere in Chile - not many roaming the streets, fortunately, but everyone seems to own 2 to 3 to 4. And they are noisy. There were 5 or 6 dogs that were with us all evening, sized from a Labrador down to a terrier, all very friendly, but in total there are about 30 'rescue' dogs here. Some would regularly go belting across the lawn, through the dining hall, back out again ...

View attachment 359245

Patio and dining room to the right.

View attachment 359235

Kitchen and our chef for the evening. The asparagus ...

View attachment 359259

It was going to be pizza night. Herb garden out back

View attachment 359244

Good to see you are managing the rough conditions. Remember always take ear plugs on travel.

Time you enrolled in Spanish classes!

RooFlyer · Dec 18, 2023

We were then taken on a tour of 'the museum'. On site is an early 19th century villa, built around a central courtyard. It was damaged (as were many buildings in the area) by the huge, 8.8 earthquake of 2010 which was just off the coast to the west of here, and they replaced the roof, and made some alterations to convert it into a gallery to house a big collection of art and artifacts - pre-Colombian, SE Asian, Chinese etc. Described as 'priceless', it came to our host by way of inheritance and he has added to it over the years. For a private collection, it was amazing. Destined for the big museum in Santiago.

This is where they do their vintage blending tastings.

And of course some of the dogs accompanied us. As usual, tearing through the rooms ...

. Enjoying the surroundings ...

and the art, no doubt.

Then to the tiny adjoining winery

Part of the au natural vineyard

And of course more sculpture and artifacts casually scattered around the grounds

RooFlyer · Dec 18, 2023

TheRealTMA said:
Remember always take ear plugs on travel.

I always do. ALWAYS. But this trip they (all 3 sets) got forgotten, somehow. Am relying on the Qantas flight ones which aren't very good. Haven't had the chance to shop for new ones.

VPS · Dec 18, 2023

What a serendipitous venue for your birthday

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

FFS. Just arrived at the Mandarin Oriental in Santiago. Supposed to be one of the top hotels around and it certainly looks like it.

After a bit of an expedition in taxi to get here, and getting checked in, etc. I needed a beer ( 30 deg outside). So I sat in the lounge and waited for someone to take an order - but no one came. No one to catch eye of. Eventually someone did come and I asked for the drinks menu and of course after a hunt around they gave me the breakfast menu.

I waited for her to come back, but she didn’t, so not seeing anyone who looked like wait staff, I walked over to the concierge and asked if there’s anyone in this place who could serve me a beer, please? He went off and after talking to a couple of people came to me and said someone would be with me shortly. Sure enough they were, and they brought an actual drinks menu and asked me what I would like. Give me a minute please. Okay I’ll like an Austral beer (pointing to it) I had these before in Patagonia. It came, with great fanfare.

To travelling!

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

Where was I? Oh, yes the winery dinner.

As the sun was setting - about 9:30 now - we headed back to start dinner.

Started off with sort of crispy pumkin piklets and local cheese (appetriser). Then moved on to the pizzas - 3 courses. My pics aren't great, as I took them surreptitiously.

First pizza was close to what I would consider a 'traditional' pan type pizza you'd get in Australia. I have NFI what constitutes a tradional pizza in Italy.

Second course had a thicker, 'bready' base and a crispy top - perhaps a bit over-done, but nice.

Then the third course - the asparagus and cheese pizza.

The base was quite thick and bready, with a thick layer of cheese (??type) and the asparagus on top. By this time I was very full, so waived it off after a taste. I don't think the concept worked.

The wines were the various blends of their 'natural wines', and they kept coming. Interestingly enough, in relatively small pours, which again suited me fine.

Discussion was about wine, politics, corruption in Chile (a lot about that!!), how Argentina is going, and whether Australia should host the World Cup (that was me

. Our host on my right, and my hotel hosts on the far right. And, inevitably, a couple of the dogs.

We headed off at midnight and I crawled into bed at about 12:45, and slept like the dead.

Brekkie next morning was a simple affair - European-style cold cuts, fresh fruit, fresh juices and some cakes.

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

This day - Sunday - was a day of voting in a constitutional referendum in Chile. No booze served in pubic places and many things closed. I decided to drive out to the Pacific coast, a bit over an hour away. In this pic you can see the vineyards of the Cholchagua valley, north and south of Santa Cruz.

Cloudy inland but a brilliant fine day on the coast.

First stop Pichilemu, which was a seaside town that had obviously grown without much reference to infrastructure - narrow crowded roads. Very many 'shacks' as well as paying visitor accommodation. I had a place recommended for lunch so made a beeline for there.

Problem - how does the parking work? There were signs obviously pointing to charges and hours, but no parking meters and no evidence of an app. Eventually I asked someone and they pointed to an attendant over the road. So these are human parking meters. You park, then do your business and come back to your car. If there is a ticket under your wipers, you find the person nearby and pay them the fee (not a fine, just the hourly rate).

Lunch at a small seafood place (natch) and it was ceviche - natch! Delicious.

As brekkie was modest, I decided to order a cheesecake slice as well. I didn't know it was going to be this big, and I promise I didn't eat it all!!

Got back to the car - no ticket

. Drove out to a point for a spectacular view of the ocean and breakers coming in.

A really odd channel of waves coming in at regular intervals, being surfed.

The Andes are full of granite but unfortunately not the coastal strip, so no white beaches - only this grey stuff, from eroded volcanics, with heavy minerals in it.

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

A bit further south is Punta de Lobos (wolf's tip) lookout.

Great location - but they wouldn't have fared well in the 2010 tsunami.

In fact everything along here would have been affected, plus ichilemu had its own 6.0 earthquake also in 2010.

Standing on the beach and then in the water as a tsunami comes in isn't really smart:

Cacti

This is the local parking meter guy. People find him and pay - works well and simple, once you understand how it works.

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

Further south is Bucalamu, less developed and seemingly more of a fishing village.

''

There would be great to have (until an earthquake) - my white car

Just as well I didn't nudge that extra metre forward! Crazy.

Walked to the end of the brrakwater, with big waves pounding the other side, and spray coming over the top. But at the end of the pier were these guys

That was a great day out, great to get in the sea air again - of which I'm about to get quite a lot.

RooFlyer · Dec 19, 2023

Back in Santa Cruz, had to find somewhere for dinner. Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza was suggested, and a good choice. In fact, looks a good choice for a hotel stay as well.

Limited menu available - so its ... pizza

. Jolly nice

Walked around downtown - not much to see other than the Plaza des Arms, opposite the hotel

Bernardo O'Higgins, one of the founders of Chile.

And some other history!!

Which reminds me ... om the entry/exit to Santa Cruz

Port Power · Dec 20, 2023

“I’m ready for my close up”

Good one, @RooFlyer.

RooFlyer · Dec 20, 2023

Next day, I bade farewell to my generous hosts and of course there were more pics. The lady was stylish and vivacious and one of the brightest, lovely hotel/B&B hosts I have ever met. Pity I couldn't understand most of what she said!!(Yeah, yeah ... no comments about that it probably just as well!)

Then it was the 2.5 hr drive back up Routa 5 to first to an airport petrol station to fill up (God, that was a complicated navigation exercise) then back to Hertz to return the car. That was surprisingly pain-free. Shuttle to the airport, get an 'official taxi' and a fixed price CLP28K (A$48) to Las Condes and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, where SilverSeas is putting us up for a night. Taxi driver missed 2 turn-offs in heavy congestion, requiring a 30 min extra tour of Las Condes.

Its an impressive building

The room was excellent

And they thoughtfully even put some altered granite in the bathroom. TKWIA!

There is a lagoon-style pool, complete with waterfall, but not heated.

This through filtered glass

I was delighted to finally meet @Port Power and we went out to dinner not far away in Las Condes - 'Galleria' which has a range of tempting restaurants, but we chose a mainly seafood one. I again had ceviche and it was really good. Quite big chunks of fish, plus scallops (with roe on!

) charred occy etc.

The MO is a great hotel, but I guess they have found difficulty in finding good staff as most of the rest of the world. Pretty mediocre in many respects. I asked my TA to get a price for an extra night at the end of the trip - booked through SS, price was A$660 incl breakfast. That's a no from me.

The cruise starts tomorrow

RooFlyer · Dec 20, 2023

On check-in at the MO, we received our boarding passes for the charter flight down to Puerto Williams (WPU), info sheet. etc There were to be 4 charters down, from 11:45am spaced (in theory). PP and I on the second, seated next to each other by accident or design.

They were to be Avro RJ100s, 2-3 config, but with the 3, the middle seat was empty.

Very comfortable coach out to the charter terminal, and after a short wait in the 'lounge', we boarded via a hanger.

The second two flights were delayed by an hour or more, so we considered ourselves lucky to be stuck in a congested taxi-way for 40 mins behind about 5 commercial jets, including QF back tom Sydney

Leg room was very good, and 3A meant we were forward of the engines (high wing) and would get excellent views of the Andes along the way.

Off we go.

RooFlyer · Dec 21, 2023

The flight remained within Chilean airspace which meant the Andes remained in our view for most of the flight:

Not long into the flight, I started hyperventilating a bit. Some of the most incredible aerial views I've ever seen. OK, just south of Santiago it was a bit meh.

Then the first recent-ish volcano

Lunch service about an hour after take-off. A bit of a Basil Fawlty exhibition though. Three spills from the cart, one which sent liquids flying (some getting to pax) and a tray of meals very nearly dropped. It was much better than it looked. Wine was a Chilean blend. We were encouraged to take large fills.