Coming soon to a forum near you, Ross Sea Expedition onboard The World

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I’m still not sure why we didn’t get as soaked as everyone else who came back after us. Maybe it was just luck.

The wind was really howling and the snow was being blown off the ice sheet and across the bay. It looked amazing from below the sheer cliff of ice. We were going ‘with’ the short chop as we turned for the ship and that was most likely what saved us. Most of the other zodiacs came up the middle of the bay and into the chop. People were drenched as they came back on board. No-one cared. It was the most magical way to end the most magical of expeditions. Next stop Lyttleton, Christchurch.

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We had dinner in Marina with five Exclusive Resorts guests who we’ve become friends with. We’ve been super lucky to meet some fantastic people on this cruise and these five are the best. During dinner eagle-eye Pete looked out the window and saw a pod of killer whales passing. Luckily other people saw these as well! EL Rob was in the restaurant and missed them. He just reckoned it was the booze speaking and that I’d see more as the night progressed. I saw no more. Ha!
 
Monday January 30
Sea day 1
Seas 1.25-2.5 metres. Position at 08:51 74 08’ S 162 30’ W. Speed 14.3 knots. Temp -4C

The first of eight sea days to get back to New Zealand. Despite a hope to cross back to Cape Adare and get us ashore to see Borchgrevink's hut the weather was against us. Winds were expected to increase to above 60 knots at the Cape. Therefore it was decided we'd head pretty much due north at a reasonable speed to avoid the weather. The higher the speed the smoother the ride. Lots of us did our calculations and couldn't see how it would take eight days to get to Lyttelton.

We sailed north. Lots of sea ice and it was very obvious from the 'gelid' appearance of the surface of the water that 'winter was coming'.

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What a tiny window we'd squeezed into. Penguins and seals were spotted for most of the day but no more whales.

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Lecture by Dr Katja Riedel and Dr Margaret Bradshaw – A Window into Antarctica’s Icy Past. No matter how interesting Margaret’s geology lectures are they put me to sleep. Maybe it’s just Colosseo. Katja’s half was way more engaging. Katja’s a better presenter who understands how a catchy powerpoint will keep everyone engaged.

Lecture by Rex Hendry – Postmodern Antarctica. Billed as ‘a provocative perspective of the historical, social, economic and environmental changes in Antarctica over time, and how changes in the ‘real world’ affect the Antarctic and vice versa’ it was an interesting talk but not as provocative as I’d expected. I asked questions about trusting Russia and China, specifically China, but they remained unanswered. Maybe we’ll get more out of Kim at dinner on Saturday night.
 
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Snow fell throughout the day

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and I went up on to the pool deck for some quiet reflection. It was very peaceful up there on my own watching the snow swirl around and gently settle all over me.

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Farewell Antarctica coughtail. Anyone who was interested was invited to meet out on Tides Terrace to spend a moment staring back at Antarctica, to decide if you’d caught the disease and finally to raise a glass to celebrate the success of the Ross Sea Expedition. One of the Oz residents ruined the moment by loudly raising a toast to the expedition team the moment we were asked to turn and silently reflect...

We stood and talked to Helle and Uri and then much longer with Katje.

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Katje, Kim, Jess and Mick

Katje was giving a talk on climate change (had not originally been planned) and was very concerned about how the lecture would be received. She accepted that people with strong views on either side of the debate would not change their opinions so she was talking to the fence sitters in the hope she might get them to fall down on the 'right side'.

What amazingly interesting these people are. We are so very lucky to have been able to take this journey with them, and everyone else.

Dinner East.

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The tuna was absolutely amazing, every time I had it

We finally tried sake. Two small bottles. Delicious!
 
I'd better get this finished now. Otherwise we'll be sitting in the lounge in Sao Paulo or Santiago in four months thinking 'I never did finish that Antarctica blog' while I'm finishing off the Brasil one...

Something that goes back to Bay of Whales and Bartlett Inlet. We were told when we were in the Bay of Whales that we were 200nm closer to Ushuaia than Hobart. From Bartlett we were another 100 plus closer.

Monday January 30
Sea day 1
Seas 1.25-2.5 metres. Position at 08:51 74 08’ S 162 30’ W. Speed 14.3 knots. Temp -4C

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our Ross Sea track

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Goodbye Antarctica :(

The first of seven full sea days to get back to New Zealand. Despite a hope to cross back to Cape Adare and get us ashore to see Borchgrevink's hut, the weather was against us. Winds were expected to increase to above 60 knots at the Cape. Therefore it was decided we'd head pretty much due north at a reasonable speed to avoid the weather. The higher the speed the smoother the ride. Lots of us did our calculations and couldn't see how it would take eight days to get to Lyttelton.

We sailed north. Lots of sea ice and it was very obvious from the 'gelid' appearance of the surface of the water that 'winter was coming'. What a tiny window we'd squeezed into.
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Penguins and seals were spotted for most of the day but no more whales.

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Lecture by Dr Katja Riedel and Dr Margaret Bradshaw – A Window into Antarctica’s Icy Past. No matter how interesting they are Margaret’s geology lectures put me to sleep. Maybe it’s just Colosseo. Katja’s half was way more engaging. Katja’s a presenter who understands how a catchy powerpoint is the way to keep everyone engaged.

Lecture by Rex Hendry – Postmodern Antarctica. Billed as ‘a provocative perspective of the historical, social, economic and environmental changes in Antarctica over time, and how changes in the ‘real world’ affect the Antarctic and vice versa’. It was an interesting talk but not as provocative as I’d expected. I asked questions about trusting Russia and China, specifically China, but they remained unanswered. Maybe we’ll get more out of Kim at dinner on Saturday night.
 
Snow fell throughout the day and I went up on to the pool deck for some quiet reflection. It was very peaceful up there on my own watching the snow swirl around and gently settle all over me.

IMG_0510.jpg

Farewell Antarctica coughtail. Anyone who was interested was invited to meet out on Tides Terrace to spend a moment staring back at Antarctica, to decide if you’d caught the disease and finally to raise a glass to celebrate the success of the Ross Sea Expedition.

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we'll be back...

One of the Oz residents ruined the moment by loudly raising a toast to the expedition team the moment we were asked to turn and silently reflect...

We stood and talked to Helle and Uri and then much longer with Katje. What amazingly interesting these people are. We are so very lucky to have been able to take this journey with them, and everyone else.

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Some of the expedition team - Katje, Kim, Jess and Mick

Katje told us that she would be giving a talk on climate change (had not originally been planned) and was very concerned about how the lecture would be received. She accepted that people with strong views on either side of the debate would not change their opinions so said she'd be talking to the fence sitters in the hope she might get them to fall down on the 'right side'.

Dinner East. We finally tried sake – delicious!

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I could have eaten this tuna for breakfast, lunch and dinner
 
Lots of words coming and not many pictures...

Tuesday January 31
Sea day 2
Seas 4-6 metres. Position at 07:48 70 19’ S 172 38’ W. Speed 13.1 knots. Temp -2C

Seas increased throughout the morning and we heard there were many people staying in their apartments.

The captain is trying to dodge a couple of weather systems that are approaching from the west. He's keeping the speed up as it makes the ride more comfortable but it also means that when we hit that ‘11[SUP]th[/SUP] swell’ we hit it hard.

Lecture by Dr Katje Riedel – How Does Climate Change Affect Antarctica. When we’d spoken to Katje the night before she’d said that she was a little concerned with giving the talk but that she’d presented to sceptics before and she would never change their minds. She was giving her talk to the fence-sitters.

She needn’t have worried. It was a very interested and engaged audience. A great lecture that taught us a number of things that we hadn’t previously know. One resident asked if he could get a copy of the powerpoint from her and Katje was very willing to share it.

Resident only photography meeting - to discuss the photo book that will be produced after the completion of the expedition. We can completely understand the position of some residents that they believe the book should only be of photos taken by them. Yes we are all part of the expedition and the experience but The World is their home and the book is their memento. This isn’t the position of the photographers but they will produce what they’re instructed to.

Lecture by Dr Margaret Bradshaw – The Past Life of Antarctica. I wasn’t game to go to Colosseo to watch this and stayed in the room to watch it on tele instead. Lucky. Al said I was snoring not long after it started.

These Rough Notes – A reading compiled by Dr Kim Crosbie on the occasion of the 75[SUP]th[/SUP] anniversary of the Scott Expedition. Five residents and guests read excerpts of the diaries of Scott, Bowers, Wilson, Cherry-Garrard and Scott’s wife. It was very moving. There would have been many a teary eye as we all left Colosseo, mine included.

Dinner at Tides. We were sat around the far side in one of two ‘twos’ up against the window. Nice view, but also right next to the entrance to the kitchen. And freezing cold! If we eat in Tides again I’ll ask for a different table as I think that they think that we like those tables.
 
Wednesday February 1
Sea day 3
Seas 4-6 metres. Position at 07:15 66 16’ S 178 88’ W. Speed 13.1 knots. Temp 2C (we’re into positive!)

Left the Antarctic this morning :(

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One of the last icebergs that we saw

Lecture by Jessica Farrer – Got Fish? A discussion about sustainable fisheries, what that means, why it’s important and how dirty the seafood industry is. Jess talked about the different toothfish fished in Antarctic and sub-Antarctic waters. Heard of Chilean Sea Bass? That’s Antarctic or Patagonian toothfish. They serve it on The World. How very awkward…

Lecture by Dr Katja Riedel – The Ozone Hole Explained. An excellent explanation of what ozone is, how the ozone hole formed over the Antarctic, what is happening to the hole, why we should care about it, and how this all might change in the future.

Lecture by Dr Margaret Bradshaw – Deep Field Experiences. Why did we not go to this lecture? We heard later in the night that at some point Margaret was talking about the changing gender balance at Scott Base. Meaning to say that the whole base became ‘unisex’ she instead told the audience that the base was bisexual. Apparently hardly a twitter. What polite people.

Pyjama Party! Early in the week we found an invite to a pajama party in our letter box. It was to celebrate the 50[SUP]th[/SUP] and 25[SUP]th[/SUP] birthdays of a resident and their au pair. We’d actually met the resident when we went to Hong Kong for our friend’s 50[SUP]th[/SUP]. Who travels with pajamas? Not us, so after checking with the hosts, who let us know that we just needed to dress right down, off we went to Marina for one hell of a party!

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Pam, our favourite, with penguin! She's been on the ship since it launched. The fantastic Rod Ledingham behind Pam in his 'pyjamas'

The seas were super rough but that did not dampen the enthusiasm of everyone who attended. Everyone was invited – residents and guests. We spent a lot of the night with Graeme Ayres. What a fab bloke. It was Graeme who told us about Margaret’s faux pas earlier in the afternoon. Fabulous finger food and an open bar ensured we all had a whale of a time. We slipped and slid across the dance floor as the ship rolled in the huge swells. Much dancing, and even a pillow fight! Brilliant!!!
 
Thursday February 2
Sea Day 4
Seas 4-6 metres (more like 6-9!). Position at 10:32 61 13’ S 176 18’ W. Speed 13.5 knots. Temp 3C (we’re still into positive!)

The seas were pretty much the same as yesterday meaning lots of people staying in their apartments again.

Today the sea got the better of Al and he had to go and sit out near the library while he worked. The huge swells in his peripheral vision were not good for his head or stomach. The internet has never really dropped out and this has meant that Al has worked the entire holiday. I’m not sure there’s been a single day he hasn’t worked, even if only for an hour or two. One Saturday he worked 13.5 hours! Crazy.

Lecture by Jessica Farrer – Counting Seals. A very interesting lecture on… counting Weddell seals. Who knew you could get paid to do something like that? Jess explained how it is done and why we should be interested.

Lecture by Dr Andrew Peacock – Stuck in the Ice. Andrew, the expedition doctor, was on board the Akademik Shokalskiy when it became stuck in the ice near Commonwealth Bay. An excellent photographic essay on the voyage and how it unfolded.

Lecture by Rob Suisted – The Great Whaling Debate. Rob played devil’s advocate and put up an interesting array of facts about whaling. He left his personal opinion completely out of his presentation. The ensuing debate was very interesting with a wide variety of views aired.

Return of the Birds! No poultry (apart from eggs) has been served since we entered Antarctica. It appears that this was a big deal for a lot of people so to celebrate ‘Return of the Birds’ the ship’s restaurants were serving new entrees and mains.

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sunset for drron :)

Dinner at Marina with an Australian ex-resident. Night two of Return of the Bird. We all had the fried chicken. It was AMAZING!

Woken at 00:15 by the dulcet tones of the captain telling us that we had the Aurora Australis directly overhead. Al was dressed and out the door but I had a whole lot of trouble getting myself dressed and out the door. I got to the end of the hallway and realised that I didn’t have my glasses on.

We joined the dozens who had pulled on all sorts of gear – many dressing gown/long john/beanie ensembles – up on deck 12 to view the super elusive Southern Lights. OMG!!! Amazeballs!! It flickered from horizon to horizon. Curtains of grey/white rolled over the ship. I saw some green but Al just saw white. I could see the green in the screen of my camera. We tried to take some pictures with zero success.

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Nada...

Some were a bit more successful.

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photo courtesy of @robsuisted

Rocking ship plus no tripod equalled zero chance of photos. We stayed up there and gazed at the sky for about 45 freezing minutes. It was fantastic!!!

Friday February 3
Sea Day 5
Seas 2.5-4 metres. Position at 14:53 54 54’ S 175 19’ W. Speed 13.1 knots. Temp 8C

The seas seemed to worsen a bit during the day. At some point during the night we’d been woken by a loud crash followed by a book or two hitting the floor. It felt like the ship had run into a wall. We later found out it was more like a wall of water. We’d dropped into a huge swell that had then broken over the bow and had reached up to the bridge!

Lecture by Rod Ledingham – Dog Driving in Antarctica. Rod is an absolute crack up. At 72 (or something like that) he has a fantastic way with words. Today’s crack up was all about how to teach and drive sledge dogs and camping on ice. Rod first went to the Antarctic back in 1969!! Hilarious and interesting all at the same time. Love him!

Lecture by Katje Riedel – Life and Work in Antarctica. We sooooo loved Katje’s lectures. The matter of fact German mixed with her long time New Zealand residency made Katje the perfect presenter. This lecture started with her first trip to Antarctica in 1997 working at the German base Neumayer. Since then she has drilled ice cores at Law Dome, measured the ozone from Scott Base and lived and worked on Taylor Glacier in the Dry Valleys. She now visits the Antarctic at least once each year as an expedition team member on various ships. Lots of highs, lots of lows, always amazing and challenging in equal measures. Brilliant photos!

Lecture by Rob McCallum – Search for the Endurance. As well as being co-owner of EYOS, Rob is also a partner/director in one of the World’s most highly regarded deep water search companies. His company located the wrecks of the Sydney and the Centaur. Rob talked about the upcoming search for Shackleton’s Endurance that lies 3000 metres below the Weddell Sea. Originally funded by National Geographic, planning was complete and the expedition about to depart when the funding was pulled after that Aussie favourite Rupert Murdoch took over NG. Funding to continue is being negotiated with new parties as I type.

We loved this lecture. The stuff Rob’s company can do is amazing. They have a guarantee of ‘if we don’t find it, it’s not there’. We then got on to MH370. Rob’s company tendered for the search and it seemed they should have been a shoe in. His personal thoughts on how the search has been handled so far and how it should be managed going forward were enlightening. How much more money is the Australian Govt going to spend before they realise who they chose will never find MH370, ever. They just don’t have the equipment or the expertise.

Dinner East. We tried sparkling sake but the one we picked was not to our taste – it smelt and tasted a bit like Christmas pudding
 
Saturday February 4
Sea Day 6
Seas 4-6 metres. Position at 09:14 50 53’ S 174 56’ W. Speed 12.4 knots. Temp 9C

Seas are finally abating.

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People started to emerge from their apartments. Lots more at the lectures.

Lecture by Dr Andrew Peacock – Life as an Expedition Doctor. Andrew detailed how he fell into the role of being an expedition doctor. He discussed his work from the mountains of Nepal to the jungles of New Guinea to the freezing waters of Antarctica. More brilliant pictures including a very poignant shot of a friend who he was climbing with in NZ who fell to his death moments after Andrew took his picture.

Lecture by Rod Ledingham – When Things go Wrong in the Antarctic. Truly hilarious talk about one of Rod’s early seasons on the Antarctic Peninsula. If things could go wrong they did go wrong including two plane crashes!!

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Everything you need to know to be an Antarctic dog driver...

Lecture by Dr John French – Aurora Australis. An impromptu/mini lecture explaining the Aurora Australis. Incredibly technical detail of what the aurora is. Brilliant photos taken by John in both Antarctic and Hobart. Our major take out – if you see a photo of the Southern Lights and they are any colour other than white, green or purple they’ve been manipulated!

Lecture by Sabina Allemann – Life on my Toes. Sabina is Andrew Peacock’s wife. She was principal dancer with the San Francisco Ballet. Sabina talked about her journey as a dancer on some of the world’s most famous stages. Showed some before and after pictures of her poor tortured feet. After being crammed into points for decades she had her giant bunions removed and her first two toes reconstructed. Sabina called them her hobbit feet. All she was missing was the thick hair on the top of them!!

Dinner - East with Kim. You can invite any of the expedition team to have dinner with you. Your shout. We did this on the Greenland Expedition as well. Dinner was fantastic. Kim was hugely entertaining and has had the most remarkable life. Ice captain Uli is her partner!

Sunday February 5
Somewhere off the coast of NZ travelling at about 2 knots, maybe 4, on perfectly calm seas. 14C if I remember rightly.
Packing day :(

After the seas of the previous week it was bizarre to roll the blinds up to find much calmer seas with much more gentle rolling swells. It was still blowing a bloody gale though. The ship was going so slow I reckoned I could have swum faster. Much discussion during the day as to why we didn’t speed up and get to Lyttleton earlier, or at least be closer to the coast so that we could actually see land. There must have been reasons.

Lecture by Rob Suisted – In the Wake of the Quake. Rob was given special permission to enter the red zone around Kaikoura and photograph the devastation caused by the November 2016 earthquake. Rob explained that this was a very unique seismic event that has changed the north of South Island forever. His pictures and words were presented in an article in NZ Geographic magazine. We’d both seen lots of pictures online but nothing like the pictures that Rob took. Wow.

Champagne and caviar at Glen and Tiffany’s apartment with Glen’s daughter Maggie and Mandy and Kerry from Toronto. It’s what you do to celebrate an amazing adventure with new friends.

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This is an apartment owned by Exclusive Resorts. It's potentially as it was delivered back in 2002. YUK!!

Expedition Farewell coughtail – free flowing drinks in The Plaza to celebrate the end of the most amazing three weeks – world record breaker, entry to Bartlett Inlet where potentially no ship has gone before and the Southern Lights.
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Citrus penguins :)

Dinner - Tides with Heather and Chris from Melbourne. We moved on to Regatta for some final drinks before heading back to finish packing.
 
Monday February 6

What a spectacular sunrise!

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We woke with the Banks Peninsula just off in front of the ship as we very slowly made our way towards Lyttleton. Our original 12pm arrival had been moved forward to 9am. Al was already packed but I’d given up the night before so as we sailed down the harbour towards Lyttleton I got the remaining bags packed.

We were tied up before 8:30

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with Caledonian Sky opposite us. She’d also only arrived this morning. Compared to us tiny but a nice looking little ship.

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Once the immigration formalities were completed (very poorly managed with some particularly unhappy residents making their thoughts about that very clear) people started leaving the ship. We said goodbye to Mandy and Kerry and some of the expedition crew. We were staying on board for lunch with our friend. Our friends in Christchurch Liz and Tim were coming to pick us up in the early afternoon.

It was fantastic to catch up with our friend. Our paths rarely cross except over the interweb. We’d love to be on the ship at the same time but as the apartment is a studio that might prove a bit uncomfortable with three of us in the same bed ;)

After a lovely lunch we got the call that Liz and Tim had been allowed down on to the pier to pick us up.

And so our third trip on The World ended. We can’t thank our friend enough. We also can’t thank the majority of the residents on the ship for being so warm and welcoming. We truly hope we get the chance to spend more time exploring more of the world on their amazing home. Sadly, that may not turn out to be the case. There is a sentiment amongst some of the residents that guests should not be allowed on the ship if ‘their’ resident is not on board. For some this means ever, for others it should only be during expeditions. It is of course their ship so it is their decision to make.

After the cold of Antarctica and the Southern Ocean a 30C Christchurch was quite a shock to the system. To cool us down we partook in some of Tim’s excellent home brewed beers – Tim has a ‘pallet bar’ with taps. One of the was a gummy bear Belgian. Delicious. Holly their six yo had invented a new version of Uno called Poolno. We all sat with our feet in the wading pool and pushed around the Uno cards in a plastic container. Card gets wet you have to roll in the pool. The water was freezing. No cards got wet!
 
Tuesday February 7

A cold southerly with some accompanying rain blew through early in the morning. It made a broken night’s sleep a bit more broken.

Our cab arrived 15 minutes early so at 03:45 we pulled the front door closed and started the relatively short trip home.

No-one in the priority queue at the airport and very few in the normal queue. Qantas has only just resumed flights from Brisbane to Christchurch so maybe not that many are aware of it.

I asked if there was still an empty seat beside me and the lovely check in agent said yes and that she’d block it to make sure it stayed empty. Excellent!

The lounge in Christchurch is small but does the job. As you do in the home of the Hobbit we had first breakfast in preparation for second breakfast on the flight.

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I saw Sisse, one of our photographers, come into the lounge and went over to say hello. She asked where we’d been the previous night as she hadn’t seen us on the ship. It had apparently been very quiet on board. Sisse was on her way to San Francisco via Brisbane and LA. She could have flown direct with Air NZ but her fares had been booked so she was flying One World. The only was was Qantas via Australia and LA. Eek!

For some reason I couldn’t pre-allocate an exit row so we were in six and it was super squeezy.
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I’m sure Air NZ’s A320s and even Qantas’ domestic 737s have more legroom.

After a smooth flight it was, like always, a stunning return home flying across Straddie and Moreton Bay.

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ok, maybe the sand mines aren't that beautiful...

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We waited and said goodbye to Sisse and hope we do meet again somewhere. Then we joined the chaos that is the Brisbane Immigration and Customs hall.

Lesson for everyone – get you immigration fast card from one of the machines as you walk towards duty free. It will save you time.

Our flight’s bags took forever to come up onto the carousel as they were being added to one already full of bags from a Singapore Airlines flight. They could only start coming out when enough of those bags were taken. And those people were stuck in the immigration queues. Ridiculous. Amazingly our bags came out first, all three of them. It didn’t help much as we then joined the ridiculously long customs queue.

Two minutes to get through immigration. First bags out. Still over an hour from walking off the plane to getting in the cab.

If Christchurch was warm, it was just plain hot. We got home, Al jumped in the shower, and then he headed straight off to work.

I loaded the washer and logged on to work as well.
 
Did we just wake up from an amazing dream? Nearly three weeks later it still feels a lot like that.

In three weeks we’ll be back in NZ for a long weekend and in less than four months we’ll be in Brasil.

Thanks for coming along for the ride. To finish up a couple more pics. Menus from Portraits Bistro, our certificates and a daily programme.

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Great TR. Thanks for the detail and the fabulous photos
 
Just catching up - some of the photos were just magnificent and it's made me even more determined to get to the Antarctica one day - thanks for the great TR
 
Thank you for taking the time to finish your TR. took me back to my trip to Antarctica in 2006 and also enjoyed hearing about The World again!
 
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