2016 Craiglee Reserve Shiraz - MB97, RKP96 - $133.33 in 6pk delivered direct - thanks/credit to
@afro
Wine is meant to be the same year in, year out, but some vintners can't help but reinvent the wheel – with surprising and delicious results.
www.afr.com
Winemaker Pat Carmody has resisted calls to bottle a reserve wine for decades.
This most humble of vignerons has held steady to the belief that the shiraz he first planted at Craiglee in 1976 – on a site that had produced great wine a century before – should be bottled under one label, and that setting aside any of those grapes for a higher-priced wine would detract from the main blend.
In 2016 – the 40th anniversary of those plantings – he finally changed his mind, and selected three barriques (about 70 dozen bottles) for bottling under a new black reserve label (another radical change at this reassuringly slow-paced estate).
"It's just a bit of an indulgence," says Carmody, with characteristic understatement.
Having tasted it, alongside the just-released and gorgeously, typically spicy, tight and age-worthy 2016 Craiglee Shiraz ($60), I can tell you the reserve bottling is much more than just an indulgence. It's a great Australian wine and something every serious shiraz lover should try. A little darker, still full of essential Craiglee black fruit and black pepper, but with the concentration, intensity, structure and energy wound up a notch or two.