Democratic People's Republic of Korea / DPRK / Korea (north)

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We would spend the evening driving long distance, from Pyongyang to Mount Hyangsan, a holiday area.

Arriving at the hotel, we had a bell boy who took our luggage from under our bus, then took them to our room. He then of course, kinda linger in my room, until I gave him tip. I was not prepared that there would be a bell boy and I needed to tip, I just fumble my wallet out, and gave him the smallest I had in my wallet - CNY 50. That equals AUD 10. I walked around the room, then realised that was effectively AUD 10. OMG, he must be so happy, actually happy probably doesn't even do his feeling justice, he must have been more than happy.

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Time travel to tomorrow morning. This is the view from my balcony when I woke up the next morning.

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Getting hit on by a Korean girl.

No, it wasn’t me. In my dream. I wish. If only.

Left my room, back downstairs to have a late dinner. Our group was served by 2 waitresses. They looked in their mid 20s.

After getting all the basic logistics done, the taller one of the waitresses started asking the age of everyone. We all thought it was a poor attempt at small talk, some of us were slightly reluctant to answer. She did persist with everyone.

The next question from her was to some of us in our group: if we were married. Um, OK, this is getting a little personal.

I now need to interrupt, this is important for setting the background: Sitting next to kiwi boy was the older of the Singaporean daughters (the Singapore family was papa + mama + older daughter + younger daughter).

She started with kiwi boy, who told her that he was married. She then asked the Singaporean girl next to him, who also told her that she was married. “Ohhhhh” she replied.

She asked a few others in our group, including myself. Then, back to those two.

She asked if kiwi boy and Singaporean girl were together. They answered no, they were just travelling in the group. “Ohhhh” she replied.

Our whole table looked at each other. Nobody said a thing, but we all knew that something is going doooowwwwnnnnn ……

She walked around, grabbed some beer, then asked kiwi boy if he wanted some beer. He answered, whatever he answered.

She then took the beer away, put it at a spare table, looked at kiwi boy, then said “You are so handsome!”.

Now, if you have spotted kiwi Handsome Boy in any of the photos, you may notice that he is quite tall, I think tallest in the group. This girl who is starting to show her true color is easily 180 or 190 cm.

We all stopped eating. Some of us LOL, some of us just didn’t know how to respond.

Some of us tried our best to resume eating after a few minutes. The 2 girls did whatever they had to do for us (swap plates, add food, water, whatever).

Then, she grabbed the beer, walked up to kiwi I mean handsome boy, and offered to pour him more beer. I don’t think he could manage to answer. I guess he was too happy???!!!

She walked away with the beer, then brought him more food.

No body was eating by this stage. We were just all flabbergasted.

She then asked Handsome Boy “You are so pretty! How tall?”

I think half of the table started to get really sick and began vomiting.

She then needed to re-confirm, by asking Handsome Boy and Singaporean girl “So you not together?” No, we our table answered.

I don’t think anyone ate anything from this point onwards.

Interruption, importance: Handsome Boy is sharing a bedroom with Thai boy during this tour (to avoid singles surcharge).

Thai boy: I may just wake up to strange noises. In case if I need somewhere else to stay.

It took us a while to have a rest at our table, from all the vomiting.

Thai and Handsome decided to retreat early. Girl looked at him with poor kitty eyes as he was walking towards the door of the dining hall. I saw the disappointment in her eyes. I said “It’s OK, I’ll give you his room number once he’s out the door.”

Looking at Handsome Boy struggling to get himself out the door. I could see physically that his knees were weak. Maybe what I said made him really happy.
 
Getting hit on by a Korean girl.

No, it wasn’t me. In my dream. I wish. If only.

Left my room, back downstairs to have a late dinner. Our group was served by 2 waitresses. They looked in their mid 20s.

After getting all the basic logistics done, the taller one of the waitresses started asking the age of everyone. We all thought it was a poor attempt at small talk, some of us were slightly reluctant to answer. She did persist with everyone.

The next question from her was to some of us in our group: if we were married. Um, OK, this is getting a little personal.

I now need to interrupt, this is important for setting the background: Sitting next to kiwi boy was the older of the Singaporean daughters (the Singapore family was papa + mama + older daughter + younger daughter).

She started with kiwi boy, who told her that he was married. She then asked the Singaporean girl next to him, who also told her that she was married. “Ohhhhh” she replied.

She asked a few others in our group, including myself. Then, back to those two.

She asked if kiwi boy and Singaporean girl were together. They answered no, they were just travelling in the group. “Ohhhh” she replied.

Our whole table looked at each other. Nobody said a thing, but we all knew that something is going doooowwwwnnnnn ……

She walked around, grabbed some beer, then asked kiwi boy if he wanted some beer. He answered, whatever he answered.

She then took the beer away, put it at a spare table, looked at kiwi boy, then said “You are so handsome!”.

Now, if you have spotted kiwi Handsome Boy in any of the photos, you may notice that he is quite tall, I think tallest in the group. This girl who is starting to show her true color is easily 180 or 190 cm.

We all stopped eating. Some of us LOL, some of us just didn’t know how to respond.

Some of us tried our best to resume eating after a few minutes. The 2 girls did whatever they had to do for us (swap plates, add food, water, whatever).

Then, she grabbed the beer, walked up to kiwi I mean handsome boy, and offered to pour him more beer. I don’t think he could manage to answer. I guess he was too happy???!!!

She walked away with the beer, then brought him more food.

No body was eating by this stage. We were just all flabbergasted.

She then asked Handsome Boy “You are so pretty! How tall?”

I think half of the table started to get really sick and began vomiting.

She then needed to re-confirm, by asking Handsome Boy and Singaporean girl “So you not together?” No, we our table answered.

I don’t think anyone ate anything from this point onwards.

Interruption, importance: Handsome Boy is sharing a bedroom with Thai boy during this tour (to avoid singles surcharge).

Thai boy: I may just wake up to strange noises. In case if I need somewhere else to stay.

It took us a while to have a rest at our table, from all the vomiting.

Thai and Handsome decided to retreat early. Girl looked at him with poor kitty eyes as he was walking towards the door of the dining hall. I saw the disappointment in her eyes. I said “It’s OK, I’ll give you his room number once he’s out the door.”

Looking at Handsome Boy struggling to get himself out the door. I could see physically that his knees were weak. Maybe what I said made him really happy.

One word (or maybe three): LOL!
 
The hotel was really quiet. From dinner service last night, we spotted total of 3 groups:
- us
- about 5 Chinese
- a German couple

Unlike back in Pyongyang, where you know there are people everywhere, military personnel, police, you just know that you are generally being watched and have rules and protocols to follow, there is hardly anyone here, and a lot more relaxed.

As there was hardly anyone staying in this hotel, only 3 of the 5 or 6 lifts were switched on. A lot of the corridors had lights switched off, some were blocked off with ropes. I was lost at one stage, or maybe I just took a shortcut, I went thru a dark switched off area, then came out back into the lobby via a staircase which was blocked off with a rope. A few staffs saw me and they didn't care. I would have been 'guided' back into the lobby if a staff saw this back in Pyongyang. We would be going a bit of mountain hiking this morning, and a corridor with toilets which were switched off last night would be switched on for us to use on our way back.

Quick run outside the hotel, just to get some fresh air. Nobody cared here unlike back in town.

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Just catching up on this thread - really interesting!

Michael Palin had a 2 part series recently in North Korea and I swear he did exactly the same tour as you did - even down to the "friendly general" in the DMZ.
 
Michael Palin had a 2 part series recently in North Korea and I swear he did exactly the same tour as you did - even down to the "friendly general" in the DMZ.

Not surprised. Our Australian organiser did say that, you need to have a reason to go to a place. Korea would let you go to a place, if you could give them a reason, and they don't think that it is a problem. Example: you like surfing, our Australian organiser arranges surfing tours to all the beaches along Korea. You do need to give them a reason to let you in.

I found this article Michael Palin irks North Korean officials for having hands in pockets next to leaders' statues, and I can already say that some of the "North Korea | How to avoid causing offence - Advice from Dr Robert Winstanley-Chesters, lecturer in Korean Studies at the University of Leeds" are partly incorrect or completely incorrect. Let's have a look at some of the points by this lecturer.

"Political discussions are highly offensive. North Koreans consider their leaders as liberators and founders of the nation"

Not true.

You do have to exercise extreme courtesy; but that is the courtesy you extend to a guest. George Bush 1 just passed away, so you don't go around or on TV and start counting all the bad things he did, regardless of what it is.

Yet, just because you need to show courtesy does not mean you cannot talk about it. Turned out the guy from the UK works in a community radio station, which he needed to declare on his visa application. This means that, he was asked many times to go on radio when he is back home and tell people about Korea. Our male tour guide was also very interested in his view of Donald Trump, asked him about Trump and UK politics. When we have reached the boundary of discussion, he (tour guide) would say I don't know, I'm not a politician, I don't have an opinion, and we would back track our discussion.

"Likewise, outward expressions of affection and sexuality are forbidden - even hand-holding is new among young people in Pyongyang"

You don't do that in most parts of the world. This is boring.

"Clothing and appearance must be conservative: no long hair for men, but makeup is allowed for women"

That is true, because they dress well and show respect to everyone. Kinda like old businessmen in Japan. Make up is not just allowed, but if you have a job and have some money, you should kinda go out with make up. If you are a woman, try going out in France without make up!

"Shorts and t-shirts are too casual for visiting monuments to North Korea’s leaders, where behaviour is tightly controlled"

100% false.

We only needed to bow at the leaders at 2 locations during this trip: the Palace, and just a few posts before, where we needed to get flowers at 7-11 and bow at the monuments.

Yes, there was strict dress codes at the Palace, that's understandable. Our tour guides told us what to do, like tuck your shirt in, etc.

At the monuments? No. T shirt jeans no problem, no one cared. I don't even think there was any police or what not. Just don't be too ridiculous like a FIFO worker in flip flops.

"Tourists are also forbidden to take a picture of part of a statue or monument - guides will insure you capture the entirety"

This rule is true. Also not at an angle, so you must be holding the camera directly in front of the whatever you are taking.

"Putting you hand in you pockets in front of statues would be regarded as ignorance or disrespect, and cause awkwardness for your guide"

Partly true.

Hands in pocket in photos are not OK, and they may ask you to re-take; or not. Walking around in front of the statue with hands in your pocket is definitely OK

"Similarly, it is more respectful to keep your hands at your sides - not behind your back"

Same as point above, your hands should be on your side, not front, not back, that's just part of the protocol above.

"And avoiding pointing at people with your feet"

Who does that?!

"Folding a newspaper or picture of the Kims' is unacceptable; locals would typically be punished for it"]

True.

Don't know about folding specifically, but we were told that, any material we do not want should be left in original (as new) condition. So this would including folding and anything else you could think of.

"As is touching state propaganda materials forbidden - an act that led to the detention and death of American Otto Warmbier recently"

I do not think that is true.

We have never been told about not touching anything. The only rule regarding touching is in museums of similar, and they would even put things in glass display, or behind ropes (think going to an art museum).

I see this as a problem, that there is so much incorrect information, making Korea sounds so scary to those who had never been in the country (including myself); then once we were in, we followed what I would describe as similar to diplomatic protocols (think people at foreign affairs have to learn), everything else was meah.

And that catchy headline:
1: He was told he could not have his hands in his pocket before the filming, why did he do that?
2: You don't have your hands in your pocket, because it is not polite regardless of where you are. Regardless of what you think of Donald Trump, if you are part of a trade delegation, and you see him in person, do you take a photo with him with your hands in your pocket?

I don't know, maybe I was taught and knew about protocols since I was very young, so I know what they are, and I follow them. I am a casual political activist (done things like how to vote card at polling stations and in the same sex survey campaign); but I also know when to stop questioning and just follow the protocol. Maybe some people find all these rules challenging?
 
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Farewell Handsome Boy from Korea

We haven't had breakfast yet. Go back into hotel for breakfast.

It was the same girl who served us last night. She told me she lives in a village nearby, so it was only walking distance.

Handsome Boy walked in, she went straight up to him, put napkin on his nap, poured him water, gave him food.

All the eyes where at this new couple.

Girl asked if we would be back for lunch, we said no as we were going back to Pyongyang.

She then put her hands around her eyes, make noises, pretended to cry, then looked at Handsome Boy, "Please come back"

Man, we are just trying to eat here, cos we vomited everything out last night. Pleeeasssseee.ee........
 
Get on the bus, drive up the hill (mountain?) for another 5 or so minutes ......

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hike up a bit, then ......

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Sit down and have tea! And enjoy the view ...

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Oh, of course, an opportunity for them to sell us things again ...... :rolleyes:

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How was the tea? Did you like it? Nice huh? That was EUR 1 - please! :eek::confused:

This happened many times. Get some where, sit down, they would give us tea, then ask for EUR 1 retrospectively. The American was extremely :mad: by this stage.
 
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We also did some mountain hiking being out here in the mountain resort area. It didn't look challenging at the beginning, but it was actually a little challenging when we had to do it. Half the people abandoned halfway.

Our tour guide said he never made it to the top, and he had only ever had one South American tourist who made it to the top, who took photos as evidence.

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The metal chain is what we needed to hold onto in order to climb up the rocks. The rocks were actually quite slippy.
 
Back from the mountains to Pyongyang. This is our final night in Korea.

We would walk around the city at night.

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Look at the far right of the picture below, you can see a lot of pedestrians. It was actually quite busy. You would walk into people if you didn't watch where you were going.

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Final night means the last night of drinking. We went to what they call a micro brewery, but I call this a hipsters bar.

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The background was videos of some live music festival in Russia, then some live music recording from China.

They had beer on tap, and also nuts and french frieds. No, we did not have french fries, it was the younger Korean teenagers. Some of them looked like friends going out, some looked likes dates. I think only 1 to 2 tables were of older customers, all others were teenagers.
 
Getting up early the next morning to leave Korea.

Everyone in my tour were taking Air Koryo from Pyongyang to Beijing, I was the only person taking the sleeper train from Pyongyang to Beijing. Our tour guides would take the group back to the airport, except myself, I was given to 2 much younger guides, a girl in her mid 20s and I guy in early 30s.

We were early, so we sat at the hotel lobby and chat.

The guy was a bit quiet, the girl was much chattier. She went to Bulgaria for exchange while at university. She also confirmed what I mentioned in post 2 of this thread, that the tourists who come with the tour company where the US student who was returned back to the US brain dead, where generally not that well behave.

Time to get my ticket. It is all written in Korean and Russian and German but no English!

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I was driven to the train station in a van, total trip time 2 minutes (we could have walked it). We spent a lot of time doing circle in the carpark / loading zone though. Think the fighting and screaming at the set down area in Sydney airport.

I have made a video of the front of train station. It is 47 MB, you can download via this link.

My guides guided me thru all the checks and ticket inspectors, by showing their ID cards.

Walk to one end of the platform, looking back at the terminal building.

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Same spot, but looking at my train.

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A close up shot of my train. Top row is Korean, bottom row is Chinese, states Pyongyang <-> Dandong. (Not Beijing, you will find out what's with this next)

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Looking at the other end of this platform. Time is now 09:53, date Nov 01, train departing 10:00

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My guides came onboard with me, found my cabin. Gave me my lunch. They then left me, and I am now on my own. The first time I am left on my own during my time in Korea. Would I see Chinese tourists and Chicken running around the train for 24 hours?

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<Puff, puff> Running to catch up with this terrific TR!

After talking to a friend of a friend recently, DPRK is definitely on my 'to do' list. They used Koryo Tours, but being in Tasmania, the prospect of going on a tour led by a 'local' appeals.
 
Time travelling : The follow 3 photos were taken after we have crossed the border into China, after most passengers had left this train.

We had both air con and heating in the carriage. I suspect this coal boiler is for heating.

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Here is the timetable on the wall inside our carriage. You can see that we left Pyongyang at 10:25, spent nearly 2 hours from 15:32 at Sinuiju (last stop in Korea) where officials boarded our train to clear immigration customs, spent 10 minutes to drive over the bridge crossing the river, then 2 hours in Dandong (first stop in China) where we all left our train and cramped into immigration building to clear China immigration.

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Let's talk about the logistics of doing this 24 hour train trip (instead of flying which is what most tourists do).

Onboard comfort

My train ticket turned out to be approximately 1/3 of what it would cost to fly, according to the face value of my train ticket, according to a Korean. This does not mean that you would save money by using train instead of flying. (The organiser for my tour charges the same regardless).

No, there was no Chinese passenger, or bad behaviours like coughing spitting talking loudly, or people carrying large luggage including the kitchen sink, or chicken running around. I was seated in a carriage only occupied by Koreans (high ranking party officials, soldiers, etc).

Smoking was allowed inside carriage. Koreans always try to smoke in the area between 2 carriages, where fresh air would come in thru gaps between 2 carriages, but smoke is smoke. I was in cigarette smoke for 24 hours.

Windows in each cabin was fixed. Windows along the corridor could be opened, but they didn’t like me opening them. It got very hot inside our carriage, so hot that the normally well dressed soldiers and party officials had their shirts not tucked into their pants, or only buttoned to their chests. I opened the windows, then the train conductor came and locked all the windows with Allen key. Myself being an Australian, challenged the train conductor after maybe 2 hours, signalled that it was hot and he himself had his uniform unbuttoned and not tucked in. He unlocked the windows, then a supervisor came and locked all the windows again then switched on the air con. They just didn’t like windows being opened (maybe the idea of dust coming in?)

There were 2 power outlets under the table in each cabin (so you could plug computer / phone).

Each end of the train was a toilet cubicle, with a squatting toilet inside. Outside the toilet was a hot water tap for drinking (or tea). Also a long stainless steel basin with a long mirror, 3 water taps. Washing hands, and we all washed our faces / shaved in the morning.

There were staffs pushing a trolley, lunch service after leaving, then a few more rounds afterwards selling drinks and snacks, exactly like flying LCC. You just tell them what you want from the trolley (whether food or snacks), and hand over money.

There was no service once the train had crossed the border. Everyone took their uniforms (and clothes) off, and no food, nowhere to ask, nowhere to complain. Didn’t pack any food? Starve.

Crossing the border.

The train stopped at Sinuiju, which is the last stop in Korea. It is also right at the riverbank.

You simply stay in your cabin. Officers would first come to your cabin, and check your passport. Then another officer would do customs check, which is checking your bed, then checking your luggage, and your phone / camera if they feel like it.

Remember how the photo above, of my train, has the outside of the carriage marked to Dandong? This is also where change over happened.

2 of the carriages to Beijing were decoupled (including mine), then hooked onto Chinese trains.

After 2 hours of basically being confined to our cabins, the train crossed the bridge (which is the border separating Korea and China), then stopped on the other side of the river, being Dandong station.

Once at Dandong station, everyone left the train, went into immigration building. Inside was exactly like any other airport, with air con, free Wi-Fi, while you had to fill in immigration form and clear immigration, then thru customs to have your luggage scanned.

After customs, there was a sign marked to Beijing. We waited here. A Chinese staff eventually turned up with a manifest. He counted 11 of us against the manifest, then took us to a different platform.

We got to our platform, then this guy just stood near the escalator and started chit chatting with 2 other staffs. The rest of us 11 Koreans (well, OK, 10 Koreans + 1 Australian) were walking up and down the platform didn’t know where to go, as we could not find our train. We could not find our train because most of the Korean carriages were left behind in Korea, only our 2 carriages were hooked onto the rear of a Chinese train. Some of the Koreans walked back to find this guy before this guy pointed at the end of this train, where our carriages were.

(Stark contrast here. The difference in customer service between Korea and China.)

Once all of us were onboard, our Korean train conductor (who already took all his uniform off but wearing an old T shirt and pants) locked all the external doors, and we would be locked within these 2 carriages until arriving at Beijing. We were free to do whatever we wanted on this train from this point on, as all the uniforms were off, with soldiers now wearing shorts and singlets and t shirts.
 
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