Up at sparrow’s the next morning to get to DEL for my Turkmenistan Airlines flight to ASB.
As anyone who has travelled in India will know, it is impossible to enter the terminal of any Indian airport without showing your E-ticket. I had printed mine before I left home but, as mentioned upthread, Turk Air changed the day of the flight from Saturday to Sunday, with the same departure time. I crossed out ‘17’ (of Aug) and wrote ‘18’.
Oops! Not acceptable! Flicked on mobile data on my phone and made frantic attempts to get online. Wheels spinning, nothing happening. Gaaahhh!
The officer eventually relents and lets me pass. Relief! I check in and eventually get away on a delayed but otherwise uneventful flight.
Entry into Turkmenistan was smooth enough. The tour company organises the visas in a batch and had sent it a few days earlier. Going through Customs, the officer asks “English?” (ie. as in “do you speak English?”), answer yes, but then he says “Russian?”. Err, no – and I’m left very puzzled as to why he would ask that after I’ve confirmed that I speak English.
I learn later that the Turkmen people were (and still are to a large degree) so cut off from the world during Soviet times that they were brainwashed into believing that Russian was the world’s main language!
Exit and get picked up by our tour guide to high-tail it into town as the first excursion – sightseeing Ashgabat - of the upcoming three-week tour is due to start soon. Quick stop on the way out to take in the extraordinary sight of the ASB terminal. Now, that is different!
Check into the hotel, catch up with
@RooFlyer and we’re into a bus for a look around Ashgabat. Rooy has covered the next three weeks in the 5 Stans in his TR (
The 5 Stans of the Silk Road) but I’m going to put my take on it for completeness of my full trip.
First thing about the new part of Ashgabat: get accustomed to white Carrara marble on an immense scale. All new buildings are grandiose and uniformly clad in it. It’s just mind-boggling excess built from immense income from gas and oil.
But, as becomes evident, it is really a Potemkin Village.
The wedding palace and a Burj al Arab knock-off.
The library is shaped like a book. When we did stop, stepping out onto the magnificent avenues was not a problem – there were almost no cars in most places in show-town.
This is an indoor ferris wheel. It was a Sunday afternoon but there were no people. It was hot and it may be typical for Turkmen people to avoid the middle of the day and venture out in the evening, but exclusively seems unlikely. Rooy had already been there a day and had a chance to get a better feel for things like that.