Hola! Around South America on LAN

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Have you seen a sloth yet RF ? Easy to take a photo, they don't move too fast ;)

I (jokingly) put my guide on notice that I wanted a sloth 'in the bag' so to speak - but alas, no (and I've now left) :( . Did get a couple of rarities (for the Lodge), though - coming up.
 
I'm glad we went to Napo lodge-canoe right to the door.Also went in August-the almost dry season!
Actually though picked Napo as a family of Giant otters lived in their lake.They are a matriarchal society and unfortunately big mamma ended up on a caiman menu a month before we arrived so no giant otters.But did come literally face to face with an Anaconda.Fortunately my face scared it.
 
Anaconda coming up, drron :). I chose my visit time to optimise Galapagos; unfortunately that meant more chance of rain to the east.

Second morning dawned if not totally clear, then clearer than any day so far in Ecuador. Gorgeous having breakfast by the lake in the sun!

Today we are going back to the river to visit a Parrot clay lick (where the birds obtain salt etc from the clay) and also a village. This is the route; about 1.5 hrs by motor canoe in total downstream.

Village 1.jpg


Unfortunately the parrots didn't come out to play. There were maybe 50, in 3 species flying about and roosting in the nearby trees, but only a couple at a time doing the clay business.

Village 2.jpg


Then onto the village - or rather, the central group of buildings (ladies co-operative, meeting house, school, including secondary), which services maybe 500 people living in the area. You can see in the LH pic how fast the river flows. We were given an into talk by the co-op ladies (via our guide) to start with; as regards the RH pic, I call this one 'Guess what happens next":

Village 3.jpg


Snacks were on the menu. On the grill, bugs (a lot like witchetty grubs), seeds of the white cacao, local fish wrapped in banana leaves, palatine (?spelling - the banana like fruit) and yuca. All were delicious, but I passed on the bugs.

Village 5.jpg


And some nice plants on show as well.

Village 4.jpg
 
QUOTE .........."All were delicious, but I passed on the bugs." QUOTE

Tastes like chicken ;) or so I am told :D
 
The day continued nice and fine; about 25 degrees but still humid. After lunch at the lakeside restaurant, there was a spot more piranha fishing - this time with some success (but this isn't me). Piranhas get a bad rap. We were swimming here yesterday; they won't attack people in the water unless severely provoked with blood etc. Some are even vegetarian.

Suspension 1.jpg


This afternoon it was our turn for the 'Canopy walk' - two suspension bridges, 30m above the forest floor, each about 90m long! Morning would have been the optimal time to visit, but our morning 'turn' was at the Kapok tower. On the way was some more neat fungus (anything not green gets my attention :) ) and two Crested owls looked disapproving, as usual.

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And so to the tower! A stiff climb up to a fantastic panorama above the jungle (well, most of it). The top LH pic was taken half way up the climb.

Suspension 5.jpg

Suspension 4.jpg


There are 3 towers, with ~90m spans between them. Quite safe. We saw a bunch if birds, some monkeys from a distance but alas, no sloth!

On the walk back, we came across this anaconda - small, but perfectly formed ... and these Tropical Night Monkey kids peeking out of their nesting hole up a tree.

Suspension 2.jpg
 
.....a sloth.... but alas, no ....

I have been working in areas with sloths for a few years. But have only seen one! They are a bugger, because they hang out in the tops of trees, and their lack of movement fails to catch the eye. I doubt many people have ever seen real wild ones without some sort of "guidance" :)

BTW RooFlyer, your photos are fantastic - thank you!
 
We saw a sloth well into the distance from the Kapok tree tower. The telescope was needed to get a clear view of it.

No trip to the village when I went so that must be something new at Sacha.
 
No luck with sloths Puerto Maldonado either although we were assured they were there. A few spectacular tarantulas though. Not quite cuddly!
 
I have been working in areas with sloths for a few years. But have only seen one! They are a bugger, because they hang out in the tops of trees, and their lack of movement fails to catch the eye. I doubt many people have ever seen real wild ones without some sort of "guidance"

We did see a sloth up in a tree when we went to Napo in the Amazon, Napo Wildlife Center Ecolodge - Amazon Wildlife Tours
but when we did the Silverseas cruise up the Amazon in Brazil and we stopped at a village the children were more enterprising - several had small sloths they would give you to hold or to take a photo.

NOV.DEC 2012 501 (532x800).jpgNOV.DEC 2012 507 (2) (532x800).jpg
 
Last hour of the Galapagos cruise .. approaching Baltra airport (big sigh). Passengers muttering amongst themselves about possibly seizing the bridge, turning the ship around and having another week!!

Every single anticipated experience, image, cliché, you name it, ticked off. Including swimming with sharks. :shock:
 
Yes,the only place where David Attenborough doesn't do it justice.
 
Funny you should say that. In the hour or so while we were waiting to disembark , they showed the Attenborough Galapagos specials
 
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Righto. Back in Quito (and blessed strong internet :)) after a tremendous week in the Galapagos, on board MV Eclipse. Still compiling pics (and off to Peru tomorrow), but in the meantime, this was the vessel (48 pax, ~30 crew, including 4 guides)

Eclipse1.jpg


I lived dangerously a couple of times, snorkelling with sharks:

Eclipse2.jpg


But other times, I just hung out and relaxed; but was also wide eyed to some wonders ...

Eclipse3.jpg


Like terrific red-orange sunsets and ever redder Sally Lightfoots:

Eclipse5.jpg

But all in all we behaved like a couple of coughies:


Eclipse4.jpg
 
Looking forward to hearing more about your Galapagos cruise!

We just booked ours and I'm excited!
 
As I mentioned, I was on the MV Eclipse, run by Ocean Adventures.

Eclipse 2.jpg


Passenger cabins are along the middle of the lower level, and the square portholes on the upper level (best rooms). A strong tip if you are planning this vessel - get a forward cabin, on either level - the rear cabins, especially on the lower level, are above the engines, which go 24/7 and passengers there complained of the noise at night. I was forward-most on the lower level and suffered only when they ran the anchor up and down (only twice during the night :) ).

It runs 7 day itineraries alternating between north and southern Galapagos islands; I was on the northern route 'Genovesa', shown on the map. We crossed the Equator 6 times, but only once during the day.

Map.jpg

Equator crossing; our guides and champagne and sushi !:

Equator.jpg


I got the impression that there is nothing really unique to the north or south schedule, but there are variations - for instance, we saw lots of sea lions and penguins, but no large colonies; I think the other route sees them. But we had heaps of coughies and frigate birds etc. And Genovesa (our NE most island) was very unique!

All of the 48 passengers were Americans, except for 2 couples from Nth Ireland, 2 couples from England .. and me. Although a number of the Americans (and Irish!) could be described as 'well healed', we all got along famously; it was a really good crowd. The four guides were all good too. The only minor negative was the 'cruise director' - he had an air of being permanently hassled and under pressure.

The cabins and the ship in general are air-conditioned. Cabins are serviced 3 times a day, handy, as the showers are in demand after every shore trip and its a 'toilet-paper-in-the-bin' situation. I wanted to take my steward, Salome, with me at the end!

The weather (25 April - 2 May) was generally fine, with sun for at least half of every day. We got one rain shower towards the end. Temps are about 30 degrees max and humid. Seas were generally smooth; there was one case of sea sickness on the first night I think, although I only felt a gentle rocking.

I think I'll do this part of the TR by themes rather than chronological, as there was a fair bit of animal and scenery repetition. Sunrises and sunsets were often spectacular - witness the sunset above and this sunrise:

Sunrise.JPG


There was usually a morning excursion and an afternoon one (broken into 4 groups of 12, each led by a guide), although sometimes the morning was broken into an early land walk and later snorkelling/kayaking/panga ride options. Pangas - zodiacs - were the transport between ship and shore. A bit tricky at first, we all got the hand of them, and there were always 2 crew or guides to help. Only twice did we come across another ship's group during an excursion. The Galapagos Parks service strictly controls where each ship goes and when and where excursions are done. You often saw other boats - but their passengers were off doing something different from us.

Pangas.jpg
 
Lets talk Sea Lions. They were very plentiful at most islands we visited.

They seem to have a rather good life .. often seen stretched out on a beach, or on a comfortable rock ...

Sea lion 1.jpg


Sometimes rising to see what the tourists are up to ...

Sea lion 2.jpg


They usually found us while we were snorkelling - definitely curious and usually came to touching distance (but touching was a no-no):

Sea lion 4.jpg


The guy on the left kept a school of fish corralled by the side of the Eclipse for over an hour. Mostly playing with his food , only occasionally going in and taking a fish. The guy on the right had a much easier strategy :). The Santa Cruz fish market!

Sea lion 3.jpg


Unfortunately another diner crashed through the neat school of fish a couple of times .. a 2m white tipped shark thrashed right through the middle - this pic taken from a video I was taking. One of the guides was filming the school underwater on his GoPro and seconds before said "Let me know if a shark comes". Ooops.. all over in half a second.


Sea lion 5.jpg
 
Giant tortoises - from which 'Galapagos' gets its name. Sub species on many of the islands. We saw them on Santa Cruz Island - at the Charles Darwin Research Station and in the highlands au natural - and on Isabela Island.

Giant tortise 2.jpg


Possibly the most famous tortoise was 'Lonesome George' - supposedly the last of his kind (from his island). he died a couple of years ago, but his enclosure at the CDRS is still there, as a sort of shrine. DNA testing has shown that other tortoises collected are very closely related, so George may yet lose his title. The one on the left is obviously not LG, but random tortoise. There are many on display at the CDRS, in enclosures. I prefer the wild variety, although the CDRS is doing valuable work in breeding and DNA tracking.

Giant tortise 3.jpg


Pretty hard to extract any personality from the beasts. But these guys seem to disapprove of the attention:

Giant tortise 4.jpg


In the Santa Cruz highlands, they love guavas:

Giant tortise 1.jpg


On Isabela, they sensibly use the human trails as their own. We saw lots and in fact had to wait for a while as several lumbered their way along the same path as we wanted to use. Rules are to stay 2m away from an animal and not to go off the trails; hence these road hogs.


Giant tortise 5.jpg
 
Possibly the most famous tortoise was 'Lonesome George' - supposedly the last of his kind (from his island). he died a couple of years ago, but his enclosure at the CDRS is still there, as a sort of shrine.
We saw George about a year before he died...he just lay there and didn't move the whole time we were watching him. Your TR brings back great memories:)
 
What an inspiring trip report RF. Such a fascinating part of the world I can't wait to visit.

Keep it up!
 
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