Hola! Around South America on LAN

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....At Quito airport, Diners Club rule the lounge roost, but I was allowed access via OW Emerald. Basic sort of affair; forgot to take pictures.....
I used to go through Quito a fair bit. My recollection of the lounge is a small shared facility that was nothing to write home about - but I smoked then and enjoyed the smoker's part, even though it was small. Also, they had great little coffee/chocolate treats - my whole family used to fill their pockets with them. Shame on us :)
 
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Fabulous TR and amazing pics. Really enjoying it.

Note to self: More Sth America travel required!
 
Thanks docjames :) I had put off Sth America for ages as 'a bit hard' but of course its not and there are so many stand out places to go to - its a big continent!

More on the Sonesta Posada. The grounds really are a highlight. Nice 'hacienda style' reception area too, with a small bar.

Yuc2.jpg


Like I said, rooms in Peru were booked as part of a tour, and I found along the way they were very cheap rooms indeed! My first room at the Sonesta was on the left. It was in the old part of the convent, and charming, and totally windowless! That wasn't so bad, as I was after a quiet night. However it was the time of some religious fiesta, and a local band was playing close by, so I went back and pleaded for a change. Voila - the room on the right, which was not only quiet but vastly superior!

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The reason for the music were the guys on the left- local 'band' who kept it up all day and into the night. During the day, they also fired up skyrockets. Not the type that go off in pretty colours, but the type that explode in a very loud 'bang' :( :evil: The first time I heard it I nearly dived under the table. Every 15 mins or so for a few hours (only during the afternoon, fortunately) one put up with small explosions near overhead.

However this was offset by the guys on the right. Couple of tame-ish Alpacas, including Elvis there on the left.

Yuc5.jpg


The restaurant on site caters for almost everyone staying - there isn't much else nearby. Its not bad; seeming good Peruvian selection as well as 'international dishes (a la carte only). Having skipped lunch, I realised I was famished. Started with a sweet potato soup (with egg); beef cooked 'Peruvian style' (which didn't seem that unique to me; no spices to speak of) and dessert; the brown fruit adorning the 'sweet terrine' at the top of the bottom RH pic is aguaymanto - sort of like a gooseberry, made marmalade style. I found it to be quite common in Peru as a garnish or even a breakfast toast spread.

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Thanks docjames :) I had put off Sth America for ages as 'a bit hard' but of course its not and there are so many stand out places to go to - its a big continent!

To be sure, RF ;):). S America - and southern Africa - rock! Both on my list every year.
 
My private tour of the Sacred Valley began the next day, at the Inca town of Ollantaytambo, about 30 minutes drive down the valley from Yucay.

Now, the Incas. I learned that they were a relatively recent civilisation. 'Incas' probably first formed in the 1200s AD after the amalgamation of several groups under one leader Manco Capac and Cusco was the centre, or capital. In the mid 1400s Pachacuti began an expansion of the empire, both peacefully via alliances and by force. Its thought he had Machu Picchu built. After his son, Tupac Inca Yupanqui, the empire spread from Andean Colombia, through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, northern Chile and the west of Argentina.

Unlike the Mayans, there was no writing and no 'art' in the form of carved images etc on stone. There was pottery, textiles etc. Most of the Inca history was derived from early Spanish chroniclers, including one who married an Inca princess.

The Spanish conquistadores, led by Francisco Pizarro and his brothers, first made contact with the Inca in 1526. In the early 1530s, the Spaniards defeated the last true Inca 'king' Atahualpa. First they ransomed him for a massive amount of gold and silver, then brought false charges against him and he was killed in 1533. A few descendants were kept as figureheads, but were gone by 1600.

Ollantaytambo was and is an Inca town and is the last train station before Aguas Calientes or 'Machu Picchu town'. There are no roads to Aguas Calientes. Its rather bustling, with a pleasant central square. Many streets are original 'Inca'.

OLL2.jpg


Its also the site of an Inca 'citadel', where I began my Inca 'education' from my guide, Carlos. Its hard to know what to call these types of places because of course nothing was written down and there seemed to be multiple functions. LH pic shows the town from the citadel; RH pic shows the famous Inca stonework, where blocks of stone have their edges ground so fine they fit together with barely a space between. However I learned and observed that only 'important' buildings got that treatment. Most walls etc were 'simple' dry stone.

OLL1.jpg


As usual, the structure has many agricultural terraces down the slopes.

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At the top and bottom were buildings, mostly stone to about 1.5 - 2.0 m high, then adobe (now gone) and thatched roofs with wooden beams. A ritual fountain at the right.

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As usual, I was taken through some houses and in one observed this kitchen scene - 'cuy', pronounced 'coo-ee' (easy for an Aussie to remember). My thoughts turned immediately to dinner. On the drive back to Yucay, the guide pointed out the red things on poles; this shows that the establishment sells chicha :)

OLL5.jpg
 
The next morning, we headed back to Ollantaytambo to catch the PeruRail Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes, the base town for Machu Picchu. The station is pretty small-town normal; a small waiting room with snacks etc. It got crowded before the train arrived and we boarded, swarming all over the tracks! I had left my main suitcase at the Yucay hotel; the tour company would collect it and take it to my Cusco hotel. For the 1 night at AC I just had a carry-on sized case. The train was good; true 'vista' capability; however it only travelled at about 30km/hr.

MPT1.jpg

Here's our route; Ollytantambo at the far bottom right (blue dot); Aguas Calientes is the '2' at the left, almost upper-most, and Machu Picchu at the far left (after a bus ride from AC). Started off in the populated Sacred Valley; the valley soon closed in and we lost the road; only us and the river; later it was more of a gorge.

Map MP train and arrival.jpg


On the left, you can see the porters for the '1 day Inca trail' starting their climb. Hikers to follow. No thanks! :) The train creeps its way around the bends in the river with rainforest replacing the eucalypts that have infested much of Peru.

MPT2.jpg


We pass a few Inca buildings and terraces, and ultimately get a first look at Aguas Calientes. A small town just hanging on at the bottom of a gorge. guys from the hotel meet us and take my carry-on; the guide and I go straight to busses for the 25 min ride to Machu Picchu. Busses are a large fleet of modern looking Mercedes 30-odd seaters; not the big coach type, but more nimble, as required.

MPT3.jpg


After 13 hairpin bends going up what you would think would be an impossibly steep hillside, we arrive at the Belmond Sanctuary hotel (RH pic) which has a public restaurant (US$40 lunch), snack outlets etc. LH pic shows the entrance gate to the MP site. the day was overcast and occasionally drizzly. We did a 3 hour walk around the site, with lunch in between. I arranged to have two half days at the site, as a hedge against possible bad weather, and this proved a good strategy. The second day was much finer!

MPT4.jpg
 
Did you get your passport stamped at the entrance gate?

A few years back I got the Machu Picchu AND the Huayna picchu (?) stamps in my passport. Then later my maid washed my jacket with that passport inside it. AAAARRRGGGHHH!!!! Memory of a lifetime now smudged. But maybe that makes it even better?

RooFlyer, keep up with the photos - they are great quality. Enjoying very muchly :)
 
Some of these places look amazing!

A tip for underwater cameras and photos, you really need to use filters (can buy them for most cameras) and/or colour correction editing afterwards.
 
Another great update.

And more idea plundering for my trip!

What is this mystery secret seating tip for LAN if you're OW E?

your tour company was Natural Focus? I've told our agent to ditch them! They have consistently held us up with information not being provided.
 
Did you get your passport stamped at the entrance gate?

I wasn't going to bother, as there was always a decent queue; b ut one time I struck it with only a couple of people there, so I nipped in; got Galapagos too (at the airport)


Some of these places look amazing!

A tip for underwater cameras and photos, you really need to use filters (can buy them for most cameras) and/or colour correction editing afterwards.

Yeah, should have thought of a filter; have done some post colour correction, but obviously not enough!


<snip>
your tour company was Natural Focus? I've told our agent to ditch them! They have consistently held us up with information not being provided.

Yes, my TA used Natural Focus Safaris as a wholesaler. I should have bitten the bullet and ditched them when they were vague etc with me in the planning. I've told my TA in no uncertain terms I'll never deal with them again, and at each local tour spot, I've told the tour provider how lousy this Australian tour seller is. The tours themselves were great - just that NFS can't be bothered with the details. (Remembering that I had quite an extensive itinerary - the Galapagos, Ecuadorian Amazonia and Peru).
 
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I used Inca Tours - wholesaler at Wyong. Absolutely fabulous. This is particular high praise, as this little duck prefers to do all her own bookings.
 
Let there be no mistake - there are a lot of steps at Machu Picchu. But folks of all types of mobility were going around the site, including some 'shufflers' and many using walking support. You can certainly walk around the 'town' part if not easily, then with not a lot of onerous steps. If you want to get the views that you are up for some hikes.

My plan was to get an over-view of the site on my first half day, then to climb Huayna Picchu the next morning (I had a 7am ticket). HP is the tall mountain overlooking the MP site and tickets are limited to I think 200 for a 7am departure and 200 for a 10am departure. However after a) listning to all the warnings and advice by my guide and the signs on site (the track is narrow, slippery and those with vertigo are advised against it - and its a bloody high and long climb!) and b) realising that I was on holiday, not some tortuous boot camp, I decided against the climb the next morning. (OK, OK, I'm 50s and overweight as well :rolleyes: )

There is a view from the opposite side of the town, where the Inca Trail enters the town which almost half as high as HP and is actually where all the 'classic' photos of MP are taken from :), so that was good enough for me (several times).

This was the day - first a bus ride from Aguas Calientes (tickets required for both ways). The busses run both directions as soon as they are full and are comfortable Mercedes units. The bus ride takes about 25 mins and after a short drive out of town you start the 13 hairpins. The map shows my photo locations, from within the MP town to the north (and, significantly, NOT on HP ;) ) and the Inca bridge to the south.

MP day 2 map.jpg


At the end of the Inca Trail, near the far southern end of the site, you get a better appreciation for the wild environment you are in. And of course there is always a Llama handy to add interest and contrast to the shot.

MPD2 5.jpg


And from this southern end - voila! Here is Machu Picchu, so called Lost City of the Incas (but it wasn't actually lost - the locals knew it was there in 1911 when American professor Hiram Bingham 'discovered' it. In fact a family was farming on the terraces!). The tall pointy peak behind the city is Huayna Picchu <waves> .

MPD2 2.jpg

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RF did you buy yourself a nice warm Llama jumper for those cold Tassie winters ?? :D
 
RF did you buy yourself a nice warm Llama jumper for those cold Tassie winters ?? :D

Baby alpaca! A jumper, a pair of socks and a couple of super-soft scarves / wraps for nieces. :)

But wait till you here about and see the fashion show we got on the train back to Cusco :mrgreen:
 
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...then to climb Huayna Picchu the next morning (I had a 7am ticket). HP is the tall mountain overlooking the MP site and tickets are limited to I think 200 for a 7am departure and 200 for a 10am departure. However after a) listning to all the warnings and advice by my guide and the signs on site (the track is narrow, slippery and those with vertigo are advised against it - and its a bloody high and long climb!) and b) realising that I was on holiday, not some tortuous boot camp, I decided against the climb the next morning. (OK, OK, I'm 50s and overweight as well :rolleyes: )
Probably a wise decision...when we did it 3 years ago, it was slippery after the overnight rain, there were parts with no safety rail...and frankly if it was in Australia, you wouldn't be allowed to climb it as it would be labelled too dangerous. The reverse view of MP from the top of Huayna Picchu is specatular though...for the latter 1/2 of my climb, I had to stop to rest every 5 minutes (the altitude didn't help), and I felt like I had the symptoms of terminal heart failure...when i finally got back down, I said to my +1, "never again"! (but the sense of achievement was huge:p)

Baby alpaca! A jumper, a pair of socks and a couple of super-soft scarves / wraps for nieces. :)

But wait till you here about and see the fashion show we got on the train back to Cusco :mrgreen:
Won't spoil it for others, but we too were somewhat surprised by what happenned when the music started!:lol:
 
I headed to the south of MP to see the Inca bridge. At first, the way was blocked by 2 llamas having breakfast. It was a tight squeeze! T they didn't move an inch ...

MPD2 6.jpg


The track to the Inca bridge is narrow in places, but quite safe. More than could be said for the bridge, which is closed / barred these days. Apparently it used to be open to cross .. until some tourist fell to their death.

MPD2 7.jpg


Snow capped mountains are visible for the track, as is a small hydro scheme just around the corner from MP.

MPD2 10.jpg


Back in MP proper ... the gate on the left was the original entry point for the Incas; on the right stonework - you can see its just dry stone, not the immaculate join work which is reserved for important buildings on the site 9only a few, actually)


MPD2 8.jpg


Like the temple on the left.

MPD2 9.jpg
 
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You can walk back to town. There is a trail that cuts right thru the middle all of those hairpins. All downhill, and a pleasant walk along the river back into town.

Well, yes ... in theory ... I guess you could walk back to town. I did see people going up and down on foot and averted my eyes. :)

Of course I would have walked down ... honestly ... except I had a rendezvous awaiting. Allow me to introduce Ms P. Sour :

PiscoSour.JPG
 
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