India 2023-Back to India-Camels, Mustard, Safaris and Living like a Maharaja.

NSun · Mar 13, 2023

I'm enjoying this report - particularly relevant to me as I'm going to India in early-May.

Its a work trip so I won't have time to see much beyond Delhi (and maybe Agra) but a few of your pics have got me more intrigued about the food scene over there.

RB · Mar 13, 2023

Back in town along with many locals we sought out Gadisar Lake- a mini market, some boating activities, temple, shrines and a another prime spot to watch the sunset. Gadisar Lake - Wikipedia

Note the coconuts in the offerings SIGNIFICANCE OF OFFERING COCONUT TO GOD-INDIANMIRROR

RB · Mar 13, 2023

Hotel Pleasant Haveli Jaisalmer
This was a pretty cheap hotel but was very comfortable, was quiet, everything worked, staff were excellent and the rooftop bar and restaurant and bar had good food, cold beer and excellent views of the Fort. The views are starting to get impeded by another building but the owner assured me he had the solution as he would also just add another storey on!

Great rooftop view

Kitchen area

Early breakfast on rooftop

RB · Mar 14, 2023

Jaisalmer to Jawai
A very long day in the car but again no dull moments. Our early path was very close to the Pakistan border and we passed many military bases & colleges. Plenty of acacia trees that were apparently bought in during the British Raj period. First stop was the Devka Sun Temple, apparently built in the 12th or 13th century. Devka Sun Temple District Barmer Rajasthan

RB · Mar 14, 2023

We passed some lignite mining and from there we ventured to Barmer where we eventually located a highly recommended home based cotton bedsheet manufacturer. Ended up quite a process but Mrs RB purchased what she wanted and we were lunch guests of a traditional meal Time for tiffin: the history of India's lunch in a box | Indian food and drink | The Guardian

Never realised so many chapatis could be neatly folded in a silver pot

RB · Mar 15, 2023

Drove further to Jawai River via Jawai Bandh. Plenty of goats seen being herded along the road on this day. The roads initially were fine (plenty of tolls to be paid) but gradually narrowed. Around Jawai Bandh & the river the road deteriorated to dirt tracks for a while & then a narrow bitumen surface as we neared our destination under the full moon. This was the only time we drove on the roads ( other than safaris) after dark & it certainly is a difficult proposition.

Waiting patiently at tollgates

Leopards Paradise
Home | Leopards Paradise
We stayed in one of the cottages and totally enjoyed the stay. The rooms are pretty new and well equipped. There is a nice front deck area, very comfortable bed, plenty of space and an excellent functional bathroom. The dining area was spacious and we enjoyed delicious meals with quality ingredients. The staff were very attentive, well trained and friendly. The pool was a great facility although currently very open to the elements. The safaris were organised through here and they were safety conscious while also ensuring we experienced the maximum sightings.

Cottage in duplex style- ended up with an outdoor setting out the front door

soft comfortable bed

Trendy bathroom

Freshly filled pool

Dining room-quirky servery

The Team that looked after us

RB · Mar 15, 2023

Around Jawai
Our 2 night stay was specifically aimed at leopard spotting.
“Jawai really gives you significantly more than meets the eye, it permits you to intently notice the biological system in by allowing you to notice numerous different creatures, mammals, and reptiles. What makes this spot a superior spot to see untamed life is its unmistakable lot that is very not quite the same as the other forest holds in India. You don't actually see a dense forest here, there are slopes and fields that make the safari experience completely extraordinary.”
Morning time saw a pre-dawn start to Safari 1 and it was certainly a great experience. We had sole use of the vehicle, it was very comfortable and just the adventure ride around and over the granite hills was excellent. A female leopard was known to have killed a goat a few days previously so all the jeeps were concentrating on a small area near where the attack had happened. Our driver/spotter was superb and we got great views of the leopard. We also enjoyed a morning tea and a general drive around the dam area. Back at camp it was a late breakfast and then a swim in the freshly filled pool-excellent clean water but given the artesian nature of it, it was much warmer at the filling hose.

An early start

A crocodile making steady progress

RB · Mar 15, 2023

Great vehicle for the safari. Driver also had great binoculars that he shared

Photos of varying quality

RB · Mar 16, 2023

After lunch it was Safari 2- different route to this morning with plenty of climbing of the granite hills for outstanding district views. Not being 4wd people, we were very surprised and impressed by the capabilities of the driver & vehicle. We gradually worked our way back towards the spot of the morning sightings and called in to various water spots for crocodile sightings. The afternoon/night started with one of the cubs, before mum again took centre stage. We spent plenty of time being entertained here & then zig-zagged back to camp on various dirt tracks. Pre-dinner drinks and dinner were next to a firepit that was set-up under the stars. We caught up with the current lessee, he was working in a hotel in Udapur in 2007 when we stayed.
The physical landscape around here is striking, especially in the areas with a water background. Combined this with the natural flora & fauna and you have a very memorable experience!

View from camp

Another big croc

RB · Mar 16, 2023

Safari 2 continued

RB · Mar 16, 2023

Jawai to Jojawar
Initially the road was amongst the worst we had been on-very narrow & poor surface, heaps of road and bridge work happening.

Around Jojawar
This was a bit of a fill-in stop to break down the driving distances. It is not a particularly touristy place but seemed very busy with people in the local market.
From our hotel we shared a jeep to Phulad station for a train ride to Deogarh. Apparently the highest track on the western railways. It is through some rugged terrain of the Aravalli mountains, with the help of some spectacular British engineering left intact from 1835! The langur monkeys have the timetable worked out and wait at the designated stops for some handouts (mainly banana skins). It certainly was a leisurely pace over the 1 metre gauge over a few bridges and through a couple of tunnels. Apparently the viewing is nicer during the wet season. The jeep picked us up again at Deogarh for the trip back to Jojawar- ordinary road back to cap a bit of a non-highlight.

Watch your head-Mrs RB & Sumit

Air Con

Our end station warnings

RB · Mar 16, 2023

Train trip continued

RB · Mar 16, 2023

Back in Jojawar
We wandered around town in Jojawar & did a little window shopping & then spent our night at the hotel with a nice enough buffet dinner- about a dozen other independent travelling guests plus a bus group staying at the hotel.

The food tasted better than this looks- maybe it was the Kingfisher Strong beers

craven morehead · Mar 17, 2023

RB said:
After lunch it was Safari 2- different route to this morning with plenty of climbing of the granite hills for outstanding district views. Not being 4wd people, we were very surprised and impressed by the capabilities of the driver & vehicle. We gradually worked our way back towards the spot of the morning sightings and called in to various water spots for crocodile sightings. The afternoon/night started with one of the cubs, before mum again took centre stage. We spent plenty of time being entertained here & then zig-zagged back to camp on various dirt tracks. Pre-dinner drinks and dinner were next to a firepit that was set-up under the stars. We caught up with the current lessee, he was working in a hotel in Udapur in 2007 when we stayed.
The physical landscape around here is striking, especially in the areas with a water background. Combined this with the natural flora & fauna and you have a very memorable experience!

View from camp
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Another big croc
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Looks like a great spot

RB · Mar 17, 2023

craven morehead said:
Looks like a great spot

We had a fantastic time there. Cost wasn't a deciding factor but a check shows that we only paid $30 Aust each for each safari

RB · Mar 17, 2023

Rawla Jojawar Boutique Heritage Hotel
A decent enough hotel for a 1 night stay. We had a room up the back away from any street noise but exposed to some music practice noise during the night. Lovely well cared for extensive grounds around a restored old fort. It has been home to the family since 1780 and the staff are certainly well trained and there are plenty of them. The room was spacious and comfortable enough,the outside night dining was pleasant & the breakfast room was huge. Food was a strong pass mark. The grounds/gardens were pretty amazing

RB · Mar 17, 2023

Entry to back section of rooms

Another hard bed!

A roomy bathroom where everything worked & no leaks

RB · Mar 18, 2023

Jojawar to Bijaipur via Chittorgarh Fort
The early part of this drive took us back past where we had ridden the train the day before with some of the steepest climbs we had encountered.
On variable roads, we passed huge granite stockpiles, numerous brickworks and farms that were divided by cactus fences. Some of our “education” for the days included the discussion of the significance of turban colours- Turbans of India - Jasmine Trails Travel Guides
We also encountered some ladies wearing very prominent gold nose rings Why do Indian women wear nose studs? - Quora and Significance Of Wearing Nose Rings In Indian Culture-Some More Beliefs
My memory was also taken back when we saw shopkeepers cleaning their windows with newspaper.
Passing through Pansal we saw the fort that was built a few centuries ago by the Shaktawat Thakurs. As a result of the presence of 12 villages under the jurisdiction of the fort, it was also known as the citadel of 12 villages.
We had lunch at the Pratap Palace hotel in Chittorgarh- a quick stop before our fort visit & nothing memorable about the place.

Not the best road

Cactus fence

The gold nose rings

Pansal Fort

Sidesaddle on the traffic side

RB · Mar 19, 2023

Chittorgarh Fort-
We again used a specialised guide here & thought he was excellent value- he went to school within the fort, his father had previously worked with Magan so he enjoyed passing knowledge in turn to Sumit (Magan’s son). Chittor Fort - Wikipedia
Chittorgarh Fort is regarded as the symbol of Rajput chivalry, resistance and bravery. It is strategically placed on a 180 metre high hill it provides amazing district views. Seven stone gates exist and are relics of the defence set-up. There is a circular road within the fort & we employed walking sections as well to view the various monuments within the 700 acre site-the perimeter wall is 13km long. There is a mix of Hindu, Jain and Mughal architecture.
Chittorgarh Fort is also called the Water Fort as it had 84 water bodies once, but now there are only 22 of them left. There are plenty of tales of romance, courage, determination and sacrifice and we found our visit to be excellent.

Approaching from the west, this is inside the 1st gate-bit of an indicator of the vastness