India 2023-Back to India-Camels, Mustard, Safaris and Living like a Maharaja.

[RB]

More of 1st safari

 

[RB]

Safari 2 had us up in the dark & the frost for a very chilly open jeep ride of about 30km to Zone 10-out the other side of town. Completely different terrain & vegetation. The focal points were a natural waterhole and a bore - both off the main circular track that all the jeeps drove around. I have seen videos so they do exist here and we spotted some tracks on the sandy track, but no tiger sighting for us in this area.

This was part of the circuit


The waterhole that is apparently the main gathering place






Beautiful kingfisher




Heading back to town


The locals are trying to keep monkeys off the roof & powerlines- with sharp branches


A very hard way to make a living-hiring out a manually drawn cart

 

[RB]

Perhaps sensing our disappointments, Magan booked us for an extra canter safari in the afternoon. Zone 4 it was! The driver & guide were very confident after there was a lot of calling by the male in this area in the morning. We headed towards an area of water and soon we were racing for best positioning to see the female tiger. Amazing viewing as she moved along a waters edge, confronted a large croc, wandered between parked vehicles and then ducked off to another waterhole. She then spent quite a time at the waters edge relaxing before setting off on a new walk towards the male who was now answering her calls. More great photo opportunities existed as she lolled about before heading away out of the zone. Despite knowing where she was headed, regulations meant we couldn’t cross zones so our day was done - we got home about an hour earlier but extremely satisfied.

Having a discussion with the croc

 

[RB]

Along with a tip, I gifted this man my cap- very talented, driving a 20 seat manual canter while spotting. He was the first to see the tiger & basically led the multiple vehicles around. As with the rest of the drivers, no sunglasses. Very few Indians we met wear sunnies despite the very harsh light- Magan says they make him feel tired where he wears them

 

[RB]

Next morning was a break from safaris so we were off for a visit to the fort. Another excellent experience. Some incredible sacrifices/offerings in terms of physical challenges being met by pilgrims getting to/within the fort. One lady being dragged/rolling on a mat along the entrance road and a man constantly standing/lying and reaching with a coconut as he neared his place of offering. Some excellent views from the fort which apparently dates from the 944 AD. There are 3 Hindu temples, a Jain temple and vast water tanks within the huge walls. There have been plenty of battles & sieges and sadly along with other forts we visited, this fort witnessed masses of women performing self-immolation when faced by enemies. Ranthambore Fort – Ranthambhore Fort, India - Atlas Obscura
First pilgrim we sighted with her mat





This lady made me question my fitness








Many Indians build small collections of rocks/cairns for the type of house they aspire to. Go too many storeys high & you run the risk of failure

 

[RB]

The man with his coconut offering


Incredibly didn't seem to have skin off his feet/knees/elbows & had commendable endurance




Our offerings




Spotted on the drive back

 

[RB]

Our 4th & last safari was out at Zone 8. This zone offers rugged hillsides, beautiful scenery and wildlife. We were back in a jeep and for the first hour or so I was thinking we were more chance of seeing a kangaroo than a tiger. Another passenger & myself recognised a distant tiger call & after getting our driver alerted, we were soon on a mad dash to track the large male. The setting sun & pretty inaccessible spot restricted our photography. The tiger was in a lazy state & stayed prone on the ground, huge feet on display.
We were late leaving and needed park permission to exit via a different gate. Park workers also passed us as they went looking for a local farmer who had wandered past on foot as he looked for his strayed cows.

 

[RB]

The Earth Ranthambore
Absolutely enjoyed our 3 night stay here. We were on a room & 3 meal deal and have absolutely no complaints. More staff than guests and they were all fantastic people who were well trained & always on the lookout to make us more comfortable. The room we had was a villa The Earth at Ranthambore, Sawāi Mādhopur – Updated 2023 Prices

Very comfortable with a spare bedroom upstairs. The mud construction worked a charm with the room always being comfortable without the available air conditioner.











Outside shower


Extra bed upstairs

 

[RB]

The Earth Ranthambore continued








The grounds were excellent, there was some entertainment one night, high tea each afternoon and every meal was outstanding. Meal times fitted in with the safaris. The chef made a point to talk to us at the first meal and undertook to cater to our individual preferences for every meal - eg Italian Day for us. On each safari we were sent out with plenty of water, juices & sandwiches.

Food was excellent & varied

 

[RB]

The Earth Ranthambore Food continued-best food on the trip
Extra effort for Valentines Day

 

[RB]

Ranthambore to Jhalawar
Bigger farms in this area and apparently the harvest of wheat & mustard is completed by 15th April around here - some of the harvesters do a seasonal run all the way down from the Punjab. The Mez river had a huge volume. Zucchini production appeared and we again crossed the path of the new Mumbai to Delhi highway. There were plenty of Banyon/Fig trees on this day. Near Kota we saw excellent irrigation systems & rice production. As we went over another series of speed bumps, Magan revealed they referred to them as “sleeping policemen”.
Kota has established itself as a coaching centre. The area south of Kota was more dry & featureless. We called in to look at Dara & saw some temple remains. The nuclear water towers of Kalisindh were another highlight as we approached Jhalawar.-think they were once the world's biggest

A Govt initiative for women working part-time away from the home











Kigelia Tree-(African sausage tree)


A full load




Things don't always go to plan

 

[RB]

Pleasantly surprised to see these great farms in Rajasthan











Coriander


Part of Dara ruins




Kalisindh towers

 

[RB]

Jhalawar
Our one night stay on the way to Madya Pradesh is in the Maharaja of Jawalar's 130 year old summer residence and former hunting lodge-the Prithvi Vilas Palace. Hotel Prithvi Vilas | Over 130 years old, the Prithvi Vilas Hotel is a former hunting lodge that still retains its authent
The Maharaja (Chandrajit) was in residence and welcomed us warmly into his amazing home. Just us and one other couple staying. The palace is bursting with treasures from all over the world, brought home by the Maharaja's great great grandfather when he did a grand tour of the world in the 1920's - including Australia!
Time stands still in polish-scented corridors full of raj-era heirlooms and framed sepia photos of maharajahs, kings, queens, and shooting parties/trophy rooms.
We enjoyed the company of the Maharaja at lunch, pre-dinner drinks, dinner and breakfast and he was a wonderful conversationalist. After breakfast we had a guided tour of some more rooms and then to the library-brilliant treasures including a photo of Bulli Pass NSW in 1923. The library also has a signed copy of Hitler’s Mein Kampf. Downstairs there is a signed photo of Mussoloni, so that great great grandfather certainly had an amazing life-think the people paid for his extravagances though.
We did wander to the pool area - a separate pavilion & huge pool that is quite a wander through the fields of the compound.

Our room


Dressing area




Our outside sitting area




Another outdoor alternative


Part of trophy room


Room for pre-dinner drinks

 

[RB]

Pool & pavilion








More of the grounds


Library is being organised

 

[RB]

Note Tasmania is a separate entry!



Photo of a photo of Bulli Pass in 1925


Blue Mountains


A bit of a collection of Shakespeare






Dining room


Can't say I had seen a sink/plug like this before-flip the top & a pipe drops down to act as the plug

 

[Pushka]

Time stands still.

 

[RB]

Jhalawar is also where the massive Gagron Fort is located.Gagron Fort - Wikipedia
Much different to other forts we visited with the surrounding water being a major point of difference. Plenty of battles here and again episodes of “Jauhar” by the women to retain respect and dignity.
At one end of the Fort there is a Gagron Fort watch point from where people can see the two different rivers Ahu and Kali Sindh emerging into one. There is a mosque within the fort and I think it is fair to say some do not like the way the numbers of permanent residents in the mosque is growing.

 

[RB]

Gagron Fort continued












On our way to Bhopal

 

[bussyboy]

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I was one of those 146! Such an amazing place was Bikaner! And enjoyed the same hotel!

 

[RB]

Jhalawar to Bhopal
This day took us via Rajgarh into Madhya Pradesh. The first hour or so was more of the wheat, mustard and coriander supported by irrigation. Plenty of stone fences seen. This area seems to support a lot of huge storage sheds beside the highway-some grain storage & others storing general freight. Generally to highway was excellent. The Madhayan Pradesh admin has constructed & runs some roadside diners & this was where we enjoyed our lunch- not sure the venture is working though as quite a few that we saw on subsequent days were closed. We didn’t see any signifying the Bhopal 1984 gas tragedy although google suggests the suffering still continues for some.

Better planning in some towns with a barricade keeping local traffic off the main thoroughfare





Some bigger land holdings




Not used to divided road