Kruger and Southern Africa

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Re: Kruger and Southern Africanisation

We also came across a couple of these guys:

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Driving around the park on our own we found plenty of wildlife. It's a bit of a giveaway when you see a vehicle stopped and all the occupants looking in the same directions.

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One of the ugly five:

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There's plenty of Impala:

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Re: Kruger and Southern Africanisation

On one of the drives we came across a bunch of African Wild Dogs. Apparently they are considered quite rare so we were lucky to come across this group which numbered at least 20 although it was difficult to get a decent photo of them.

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We also came across this guy who was having a cat nap right next to the road. Interesting eyes....

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Re: Kruger and Southern Africanisation

After a hard day of animal sighting it's good to get back to camp. Both Skukuza and Pretoriuskop have these bungalows:

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The ones at Skukuza are in better condition (perhaps 2½ stars as against 2 at Pretoriuskop). The units at Berg-en-Dahl are different (sorry, no photo) and of more recent construction and would be maybe 3 stars IOHO. Interesting that when they had the sprinklers going at Pretoriuskop there wasn't enough water pressure left to have a shower or refill the water closet after a flush.

Also, at Pretoriuskop your dining option is a Wimpys (fast food outlet):

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whereas at Skukuza, there is a cafe/take-away, as well as a nice restaurant with a lovely outdoor deck overlooking the river...

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Would be awesome with a full moon and clear sky.
 
Re: Kruger and Southern Africanisation

We had dinner on the deck; we only had a main each, +1 added chips and a salad and I had the vegies:

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All up including a bottle of wine set us back just under $A30.


To help find our way around by ourselves we picked up a copy of this 54 page book which was available at the shops at the rest camps we visited. It includes excellent maps, suggestions for drives and 12 pages of colour photographs of animals and birds so you can identify what you are looking at.

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It also includes distances and estimated travel times along the various roads (but you need to add stopping, looking and photographing time as the quoted times are only for driving). It also shows picnic spots and lookout/get-out points.

This lookout is on the H1-1 about 11km south of Skukuza.

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My favourite drive was along the H4-1 heading from Skukuza towards Lower Sabie. It follows the river and as there was still some water in the river there was a fair bit of life around. There was also a fair bit of traffic and as mentioned before it is easier to spot the animals when there are cars and tour guides stopped and looking.

At one point we stopped where there were lots of others looking at something but couldn't see what the fuss was about. So we pulled up alongside another car and asked; they pointed to two lions on the other side of the river. Hard to spot with the naked eye but +1 found them with the zoom on her camera...

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A few of the other animals we found:

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A female kudu:

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And a male:

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After handing back the rental car we went to the lounge to await QF64 to SYD on a separate paid ticket.

So it is here that I will take a pause of sorts. We return to South Africa, Namibia and Victoria Falls in February/March to continue our classic award. Any thoughts or suggestions on where we should go and where to eat, etc. will be gratefully received.

Thanks for flying along with us; we hope you have enjoyed your flight(s) so far.

As a postscript, I should I should mention our paid fare home. One of those strange quirks you come across occasionally. We booked JNB-SYD-PER-SYD-JNB with stopovers in Sydney, Perth and Sydney again. This fare was >$300 cheaper per person than JNB-SYD-JNB!

So a few days at home in CFS then off to Perth for AFF10; looking forward to catching up with some of you there.
 
After handing back the rental car we went to the lounge to await QF64 to SYD on a separate paid ticket.

So it is here that I will take a pause of sorts. We return to South Africa, Namibia and Victoria Falls in February/March to continue our classic award. Any thoughts or suggestions on where we should go and where to eat, etc. will be gratefully received.

Thanks for flying along with us; we hope you have enjoyed your flight(s) so far.

As a postscript, I should I should mention our paid fare home. One of those strange quirks you come across occasionally. We booked JNB-SYD-PER-SYD-JNB with stopovers in Sydney, Perth and Sydney again. This fare was >$300 cheaper per person than JNB-SYD-JNB!

So a few days at home in CFS then off to Perth for AFF10; looking forward to catching up with some of you there.

Namibia:

Oysters from Walvis Bay at Swakopmund, hot air balloon ride at Sossusvlei, climb Dune 45 near Sossusvlei, Cheetah run at Cheetah Conservation Fund, Etosha NP. Drive yourself - Namibia is easy-peasy.

Vic Falls: sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Bear in mind Feb could be high water and that can obliterate the falls view from the Zim side. Zambian side is better at high water. Go on the tour out to Livingstone Island (from the Zambian side) and get your pic taken while perched on the edge of the falls :shock:.

S Africa: Drakensburg, Stellenbosch, Cape Town.
 
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Namibia:

Oysters from Walvis Bay at Swakopmund, hot air balloon ride at Sossusvlei, climb Dune 45 near Sossusvlei, Cheetah run at Cheetah Conservation Fund, Etosha NP. Drive yourself - Namibia is easy-peasy.

Vic Falls: sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Bear in mind Feb could be high water and that can obliterate the falls view from the Zim side. Zambian side is better at high water. Go on the tour out to Livingstone Island (from the Zambian side) and get your pic taken while perched on the edge of the falls :shock:.

S Africa: Drakensburg, Stellenbosch, Cape Town.

You've stollen all my suggestions. :p

One suggestion for Namibia would be a night or two in the NamibRand Nature Reserve located a few hours south of Windhoek.
http://www.getaway.co.za/travel-stories/namibias-best-kept-secret-namibrand/

Here you can enjoy some spectacular sunrises and sunsets where the semi grassy/sandy plains are as flat as a snooker table ( literally) and the distant mountain ranges make for both sensational scenery and photography.
The experience to sit out at night star gazing whilst listening to distant animal noises ( ie mating calls) is something that I'll never forget.

I stayed at the Drifters Desert Lodge, Drifters Desert Lodge | Namibrand | Namibia , not luxurious, but certainly comfortable , although I did see a number of other lodges/farm stays in the area too.
 
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We have 28 days/29 nights to split between South Africa and Namibia. In general, how would members suggest that we split our time: 3 weeks in S.A. and one in Namibia, 2 & 2, or 1 in S.A. and 3 in Namibia keeping in mind that we have already ticked Kruger off our list?
 
We have 28 days/29 nights to split between South Africa and Namibia. In general, how would members suggest that we split our time: 3 weeks in S.A. and one in Namibia, 2 & 2, or 1 in S.A. and 3 in Namibia keeping in mind that we have already ticked Kruger off our list?

Too hard to generalise on gross time, I think.

Better to establish a hierarchy of things important to you to see and do and then plan to that.
 
Drive yourself - Namibia is easy-peasy.

Looking to finalize our itinerary (only 6 weeks to go) and definitely will be driving ourselves.

We got some suggestions from a TA in Namibia: I put their suggestions into Google Maps and it comes to 3,100+km in 15 days (that's about the same distance from Melbourne to Cairns). I realize that Namibia is wide open spaces and it would be doable but it seems a bit too much to us.

They also recommend using a big 4x4 which would be ideal but doesn't come cheap (and would use a fair bit of fuel). Does anyone have thoughts on a modest sedan? Some websites suggest that the roads are very good (including the gravel roads) and a 2WD is fine; others suggest that a 4x4 is a necessity. Obviously there will be some places that a 2WD can't get to but as a general guide......? I should also mention that we will be there in late Feb/early March which is wet season.

I stayed at the Drifters Desert Lodge, Drifters Desert Lodge | Namibrand | Namibia , not luxurious, but certainly comfortable , although I did see a number of other lodges/farm stays in the area too.

I note that the Drifters' website states that it is on a "good gravel road". What vehicle did you have and would a 2WD be restricted getting to/from Namib Rand and heading north to Swakopmund via the dunes?

Another question if I may: The TA suggested a stay at the Fish River Lodge whose website states that you definitely need a high clearance 4x4. There is also the Gondwana lodges on the other side of the canyon near Hobas. Has anyone stayed at any of these and would you rate Fish River Canyon as a must-see? (No we won't be walking through it; just looking.)

Thanks in advance.
 
Looking to finalize our itinerary (only 6 weeks to go) and definitely will be driving ourselves.

We got some suggestions from a TA in Namibia: I put their suggestions into Google Maps and it comes to 3,100+km in 15 days (that's about the same distance from Melbourne to Cairns). I realize that Namibia is wide open spaces and it would be doable but it seems a bit too much to us.

They also recommend using a big 4x4 which would be ideal but doesn't come cheap (and would use a fair bit of fuel). Does anyone have thoughts on a modest sedan? Some websites suggest that the roads are very good (including the gravel roads) and a 2WD is fine; others suggest that a 4x4 is a necessity. Obviously there will be some places that a 2WD can't get to but as a general guide......? I should also mention that we will be there in late Feb/early March which is wet season.



I note that the Drifters' website states that it is on a "good gravel road". What vehicle did you have and would a 2WD be restricted getting to/from Namib Rand and heading north to Swakopmund via the dunes?

Another question if I may: The TA suggested a stay at the Fish River Lodge whose website states that you definitely need a high clearance 4x4. There is also the Gondwana lodges on the other side of the canyon near Hobas. Has anyone stayed at any of these and would you rate Fish River Canyon as a must-see? (No we won't be walking through it; just looking.)

Thanks in advance.

To answer your question about my own visit to Namibrand, I was on a drifters tour myself and was transported on one of those large overland trucks (commonly used in Southern Africa for overland tours) and I definitely remember the road being gravel and quite bumpy.
The road was sealed for the last 50 km's until Namibrand, so I would highly recommend a 4x4 vehicle. You could get away with a 2x2, but you would want to drive really slowly.

The roads around Sossulvei were a combination of gravel and sealed (although mostly gravel in the park itself if memory proves to be correct).
An interesting place to stop for lunch once you've been to Dune 7 and Dead Flat is a small settlement called Solitaire.
A great ppportunity to take some photos of rural desert life and the village does have a pretty good bakery :)

I never went to the Fish River Canyon, although I really want to go sometime as it's the second largest canyon in the world after USA's - The Grand Canyon. Most people who visit the Fish River Canyon do so as they enter Namibia from The West Cape (South Africa).

Here a link about Solitaire:
The Solitary Town of Solitaire, in Namibia | Amusing Planet
 
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3100 clicks in 15 days seems trivial to me, especially in wide open spaces like Namibia - a couple of hours driving per day on average. I can't imagine how you could do it for much less if you want to see some country.

4x4s are very common in Namibia. Toyota Fortuners are extremely common, while HiLux and Ford Ranger dual-cabs are often set up as campers. The main dirt roads are very good and certainly don't require 4x4. My experience was only in the dry season - but if and how wet the wet season in the desert of Namibia is may be moot. Like arid inland Australia, I expect heavy rain would stop everything.

If you had any thought of getting off the main dirt roads, I'd say get a 4x4 for the peace of mind. I got onto a back road from Karibib to the Welwitschia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welwitschia) (well worth a visit IMO) and through to Swakopmund that en route petered out to a track at one point that technically I probably should not have been on without a permit but even that probably would have been passable (slowly) in a larger 2WD.

I can't recall thinking fuel costs were an issue. I had a Ford Ranger diesel 4 cylinder and fuel economy was good. I can't recall what fuel cost but I don't think it was outrageous.

You'd have no trouble getting from Fish R, N through Sossusvlei, Sesrien, Solitaire to Swakopmund in a 2WD. If you do go 2WD, make sure to slow down at livestock grids. Some of them can be quite a bump - but great fun for almost getting airborne at speed in a tough 4x4 ;). They also narrow quite a lot relative to the generally very wide dirt roads. This is all trivial for an Australian used to driving on the left and who probably has some experience on dirt, but by all accounts it's mainly where Europeans come badly to grief. They probably slam on the brakes as they approach the suddenly narrow grid, hit the bump and over they go. I saw one fresh rollover (a 4x4 - in the wrong hands they are probably more vulnerable than a 2WD) N of Sossusvlei with the victims being dusted off by helo.

The rental car companies will most likely want you to view their awareness video. I refused it as a waste of their time and mine, pointing out that we drive on the left here, I was fully accustomed to driving on dirt in Australia and used to a 4x4. They accepted that. The cautionary stuff is really directed at Europeans who by and large haven't a clue about such things.

Remember - Africa is not for sissies, as it says on the T-shirts :D. The dirt driving in the tough Ranger was some of the better driving fun I've had :cool:. But, that said, I was flying solo ;):D.
 
To answer your question about my own visit to Namibrand, I was on a drifters tour myself and was transported on one of those large overland trucks (commonly used in Southern Africa for overland tours) and I definitely remember the road being gravel and quite bumpy.
The road was sealed for the last 50 km's until Namibrand, so I would highly recommend a 4x4 vehicle. You could get away with a 2x2, but you would want to drive really slowly....

Thanks for that CCP...your thoughts are most helpful and greatly appreciated.

3100 clicks in 15 days seems trivial to me, especially in wide open spaces like Namibia - a couple of hours driving per day on average. I can't imagine how you could do it for much less if you want to see some country.

True, but the TA had us staying a couple of nights in most places and then driving 4 to 5 hours the next day. Another website I found suggests that with sightseeing, etc. most of these drives would be more like 6 to 7 hours. Still doable but more of a challenge in a 2x2 during/after rain.

4x4s are very common in Namibia. Toyota Fortuners are extremely common, while HiLux and Ford Ranger dual-cabs are often set up as campers. The main dirt roads are very good and certainly don't require 4x4. My experience was only in the dry season - but if and how wet the wet season in the desert of Namibia is may be moot. Like arid inland Australia, I expect heavy rain would stop everything.

If you had any thought of getting off the main dirt roads, I'd say get a 4x4 for the peace of mind. I got onto a back road from Karibib to the Welwitschia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welwitschia) (well worth a visit IMO) and through to Swakopmund that en route petered out to a track at one point that technically I probably should not have been on without a permit but even that probably would have been passable (slowly) in a larger 2WD.

I can't recall thinking fuel costs were an issue. I had a Ford Ranger diesel 4 cylinder and fuel economy was good. I can't recall what fuel cost but I don't think it was outrageous.

You'd have no trouble getting from Fish R, N through Sossusvlei, Sesrien, Solitaire to Swakopmund in a 2WD. If you do go 2WD, make sure to slow down at livestock grids. Some of them can be quite a bump - but great fun for almost getting airborne at speed in a tough 4x4 ;). They also narrow quite a lot relative to the generally very wide dirt roads. This is all trivial for an Australian used to driving on the left and who probably has some experience on dirt, but by all accounts it's mainly where Europeans come badly to grief. They probably slam on the brakes as they approach the suddenly narrow grid, hit the bump and over they go. I saw one fresh rollover (a 4x4 - in the wrong hands they are probably more vulnerable than a 2WD) N of Sossusvlei with the victims being dusted off by helo.

Thanks for the thoughts on 2WD vs 4x4. If it was dry season I would have no hesitation with a 2WD but as it is the wet a 4x4 would obviously be better.


The rental car companies will most likely want you to view their awareness video. I refused it as a waste of their time and mine, pointing out that we drive on the left here, I was fully accustomed to driving on dirt in Australia and used to a 4x4. They accepted that. The cautionary stuff is really directed at Europeans who by and large haven't a clue about such things.

Thanks for that. Having seen the way some Europeans (read Italians and Spanish) drive on bitumen, it's no wonder they get into trouble on dirt. While no expert on 4x4s I have driven the Bloomfield Track, Fraser Island, many back roads, etc., and drove one for work for more than 10 years, so I have a bit of an idea what they/I can & can't do.

Remember - Africa is not for sissies, as it says on the T-shirts :D. The dirt driving in the tough Ranger was some of the better driving fun I've had :cool:. But, that said, I was flying solo ;):D.

We started our 280k award in April for the Cherry Blossoms in northern Japan so the latest we could finish the trip was March (330 day booking window). Our main goals for Africa when booking this award ticket was Kruger and Victoria Falls. Already ticked off Kruger and fly to LVI mid March.

Given the time of year, we may concentrate more on South Africa (as we have only spent 4 nights there and only visited Kruger and JNB airport), cover Drakensberg, Cape Town & Garden Route, and then stick to the main roads in Namibia leaving the more remote areas for another time.

As JohnM points out, some heavy rain may see us going nowhere for a few days.
 
There's really no way you could avoid a few long runs if you want to see the main sights. But that is offset by the easy driving. The sealed roads really just form a spine. Many of the dirt roads are quite major, busy and not really 'remote'; it's just that they are not sealed - but they are well-maintained.

Unless you are going in December, I think it is not worth worrying about a 'wet' season. It is an arid, not a tropical, environment.

https://weather-and-climate.com/average-monthly-Rainfall-Temperature-Sunshine,Windhoek,Namibia

Very few rainy days but a high average rainfall in December, suggests year-to-year variation is huge. In other words, rain is likely to be rare but intense when it does happen - like central Australia right now. And, like that, it could be a spectacular time to be there!
 
The gentleman and I did a self drive tour of Namibia in August 2013. We drove as follows: Windhoek, Sossusvlei, Swakopmund, Damaraland, Etosha and back to Windhoek. It was a 12/13 day trip from memory. We started with a 2WD and upgraded to a 4WD in Swakopmund. A lot of the roads in Namibia are unsealed and corrugated. Get a 4WD. The trip will be much more pleasant and also a little bit quicker. Namibia is a beautiful country and we will definitely go back again.
 
Regarding the Drakensburg, it can in case you are not aware, be confusing as there are two major areas called 'The Drakensburg' that are widely (6-8h drive) separated.

The more northern is around Sabie and Graskop, W of Kruger. That part, perhaps more correctly called the Drakensburg Escarpment, is where God's Window, the Three Rondavels and Blyde River Canyon are. It is spectacular but IMO the much more spectacular part (and perhaps regarded more generally as the 'true' Drakensbug) is the E border with Lesotho where Champagne Castle, Monks Cowl, The Amphitheatre are.
 
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