Lake Baikal, Siberia on Qantas and Siberian Airlines (S7)

[RooFlyer]

No takers for the 'where am I' quiz?

 

[OATEK]

No takers for the 'where am I' quiz?

Karl Marx and Lenin Streets?

 

[RooFlyer]

Correct! The intersection thereof. A thoroughly Russian address. Center of Irkutsk.

 

[RooFlyer]

Early dinner at Old Cafe restaurant, not far from the Marriott. Traditional Russian and far East cuisine.



Greeted by a couple who had no English and then they got a young thing who did.

Place wasn't very busy - it was early yet. English menu and drinks list, but wine list only in Russian. Surprised and a bit disappointed that there was no Russian wine on offer - at least by the glass. Only German beer, too.

I had a beer.



For entree I had salted salmon and new potatoes, all of which was great.



Very varied meat and fish items in the menu for mains, but as I will get plenty of fish in the next few days at Lake Baikal, I choose the reindeer filled pelmeni - Russian dumplings, which came in a nice mushroom broth and was topped by grilled liver. I'm not a liver fan, but had a few bits.



All in all a great meal. Old Cafe is sometimes described as ' expensive' and is rated '$$$$' on trip advisor. My bill came to 1200roubles (A$25) which included a bottle of still water.

 

[RooFlyer]

Heading off this morning to Olkhon Island in Lake Baikal on a private tour. Spending two nights there; not sure about Wi-Fi but I expect there will be something. I think 2 nights might be too long, but as I have a week in the region (direct flights only weekly), I thought I may as well. Weather is forecast to be OK after today, which is cloudy with some rain expected around noon.

Olkhon is the world's 4th largest lake-bound island and has its own lakes within it. Its the second biggest if you want to be picky about definitions. About 1,500 people live on it - mainly the original Buryat people.

 

[RooFlyer]

The day is overcast and cold. Forecast is for better weather for the following 2 days. My driver/ guide Ksenia picks me up promptly at 10 and of we go.

After clearing the morning traffic ( bad) we were into some forested hills with fantastic autumn colours of larch and birch. ( BTW the van is RHD , hence my pics from the LH seat!!)





After about an hour the country changed to monotonous steppe, very much like Canadian prairie. Cattle and horses, occasional sheep graze with no fencing. Would be murderous at night. Occasionally broken up by wooded hills.







We were driving through areas of 2 or 3 original people (caucasian Russians only arrived in late 17th century). There are boundaries marked by monuments but these days the national government doesn't give then any autonomy.

 

[RooFlyer]

The Buryat people dominate the original people who are present and are unmistakably ethnic Mongolian.

They have 'sharman' spiritual beliefs and evidence of this is everywhere, in the form of streamer covered poles. The actual significance I'm not up on.



We stopped for a boozy lunch in a Buryat 'village'. This place is called something like 'Cafe yurt' after the Mongolian steppe tent dwelling - note the shape.



Menus. 100 rubles is A$2. Note the boozys - a dumpling





I had a very nice borscht ( beet soup) and a 'boozy'. Both good.



Then it was into more forest, then a windswept countryside as we approached the lake.




Another Buryat legend memorial. Eagles feature prominently in these. ( And no, that's not a footy tip).

 

[RooFlyer]

Labouring under some pretty thin wifi, but I'll press on. When you see where I am tonight, you'll see why .

Approaching the lake, very windy and only the occasional stunted tree.



You can see the barrenness of it from space:



First glimpse of the lake.



Very definitely hold onto your hat stuff. ( Another legend memorial).



The road to here only got sealed 5 years ago - else we would have been on gravel for the past 200 km or so. There is a ferry for the 1 km crossing to the island. I got a bit worried when the hotel phoned the guide to say that the wind and waves were up. Ferry may not be running! .

Approaching the ferry:

 

[RooFlyer]

Waiting in the queue for the ferry. Yes , the waves were up a bit. Later, I looked for the life jackets and couldn't see any.

The cliffs on both sides firm a natural wind tunnel and the wind can howl though.



On we go, for better or worse!



Yes, a bit windy out there, Richie ...





Two ferries, back and forth.



Fortunately it wasn't as bad as it looked!

 

[RooFlyer]

Only dirt roads on Olkhon Island and being the end of the season, they are not in great condition. About 30km to our destination for tonight, the little town of Khuzhir. This part of the island is barren and windswept. The eastern side is forested.





Lonely Planet describes the main street of Khuzir as 'dung spattered'. Judge for yourself.



This is the second main street.



We had a quick look at a feature on the coast before going to our hotel ( by this time I was more apprehensive about the hotel than I was about the ferry).

Sharmanic poles



A classic Baikal vista. In the background is just a narrow channel between the island and the mainland. Lake Baikal proper is on the other side of the island.

 

[RooFlyer]

In my geo career, I've visited some pretty coughpy places from the outback to West Africa, USA, Canada and beyond. This joint is right up there.



Hotel is 'basic' . Shared facilities of course and a hard bed.



But I'm here now, with no regrets; I'm at Lake Baikal! Hope dinner tonight is OK.

 

[tgh]

Super tr Roof_lyer.. keep up the good work…

 

[RooFlyer]

Dinner at a local 'restaurant'. Actually a cabin room where they served a fixed menu.

And here it is:



Thank God I packed a couple of Kit-Kats!

 

[kamchatsky]

Well done on the Trip Report! I don't think I will ever go to Lake Baikal and Irkutsk in my life so I appreciate all your photos and reports!

 

[kamchatsky]

Dinner at a local 'restaurant'. Actually a cabin room where they served a fixed menu.

And here it is:

View attachment 137985

Thank God I packed a couple of Kit-Kats!

It looks vegetarian! How much is the meal cost?

 

[RooFlyer]

Not veg; and not bad, to be honest ... (Considering ....). Not up to @JohnM or @amaroo trip standards, though .

Don't know cost - It's included in the tour. Looking at regional costs in general, I'd doubt it was more than A$10.

 

[RooFlyer]

... I don't think I will ever go to Lake Baikal and Irkutsk in my life ...

And I think I've now made sure most AFFers won't either!

But perhaps i'm being a bit judgemental, eh, @mrs.dr.ron ? I dare say @Princess Fiona is looking at a booking right now!

 

[Happy Dude]

Soak up time in the Banya!

 

[JohnM]

And I think I've now made sure most AFFers won't either!

But perhaps i'm being a bit judgemental, eh, @mrs.dr.ron ? I dare say @Princess Fiona is looking at a booking right now!

Hmmm - somewhat depending on what follows, that may not be the case for moi....

 

[RooFlyer]

Soak up time in the Banya!

That's coming in the next excursion, to hot springs at Arshan. I don't think they would run to a Banya here ...

Hmmm - somewhat depending on what follows, that may not be the case for moi....

I'm taking it as practice for our Silk Road trip next year.