My wife and I have been visiting capital cities for the last 14 years, and quite frankly, I had lost the buzz I used to get for the last six years.
But I don't know why, but I got the buzz back in Lisbon. Lots of monuments and other sites to see, pretty happy looking people, and reasonable non rip-off prices in places where anywhere else, I would have expected them.
We thoroughly enjoyed our nine days there. Getting rechargeable Metro cards was easy, since they had an English option, and the cards could be used on Metro trains, buses and trams. Prices using the card on say tourist trams, were considerably cheaper than buying a one off ticket for the ride.
What we liked most was that that feeling of being under seige, with targets on our back - like we get in Rome and Madrid - was totally missing in Lisbon. We kept being warned about pick pockets, especially when boarding trams, but we never saw anything untoward compared to our experiences in other places.
The most dangerous thing about Lisbon is the smooth cobblestones which are present everywhere. First thing I had to do when we walked a few hundred meters down to the shops, was to spend 70 euros on walking shoes with good grip for my wife. She had been wearing runners, which proved totally inadequate, and she had nearly slid over about ten times (I'd nearly slid over twice). Apparently, these smooth cobblestones are a problem mainly in summer.
On a positive note, my wife decided that Portuguese shoes were better than Italian shoes, and bought several more pairs. Result - I had to pay 45 euros in excess baggage for them and other purchases.
One strategy we adopted in Lisbon, was to always walk downwards. Eventually we'd find a Metro to take us back up the hills.
We had one pleasant surprise one day. We had made our way to Monisteros Jeronimos in Belem, only to find it closed because it was a Monday. Cost would have been 10 Euros each to get in. So we decided to have a look at the Maritime Museum next door, where we got in for half prices being seniors. After that we had a tasty meal at the cafe and headed back to the tram stop at 6pm - only to find the Jeronimos monestary now open - and free!
They really love their Portuguese tarts over there, and on the hotel staff's recommendation, I bought some from the shop in Belem where there is a 20 minute queue to buy them nice and hot. Yes, they were very nice hot, but I didn't have the heart to tell them I actually liked them more next day cold out of the fridge.
To sum up, we've unhesitatingly been recommending Lisbon to all our travelling/sight seeing type friends. We aren't night-life types, so can't comment.
Regards,
Renato
P.S. I checked out perfume prices in Sephora and Douglas stores at the Vasco de Gama shopping centre. Prices were about 10 percent higher than in Italy, which in turn are heaps higher than what they can be bought for at Chemist Warehouses back in Australia. It never ceases to amaze me that Calvin Klein, Issey Miyake, Abercrombie and Fitch and numerous other scents for which we pay $30 to $40 for, sell for anywhere between 70 to 90 Euros in Lisbon, and 60 to 80 or so euros in Italy.
If you want to smell really wealthy in Lisbon, stock up in Australia.