New Years in Vanwatoo

[bPeteb]

It was about a 10 minute ride across to Lelapa from the landing and it was fine, but cloudy, as we dropped down into Port Havannah.. Bradley and his two 'boys' looked after us very well. We were dropped on a beach and then walked across the island. Lelapa was used for two series of Survivor. I think Bradley said 2006 US and 2008 Oz. This first landing was one of the tribe 'beaches'. There must be so much editing to make it look like the middle of nowhere - there were houses all along the main island (Efate) shore.





We walked across the island and had a bit of a botanical lesson on some of the plants used for local medicine. Saw the remains of a bunker dug by the US troops who were on the island in WWII



Walked to the second of the 'tribe' beaches and this is where we snorkelled the first time and had a pretty decent bbq lunch. The coral was ok, lots of damage from past cyclones, a fair amount of fish as well. Would have been much better if it hadn't been cloudy, or pouring down! Yes, we brought rain to Lelapa. Forget thoughts and prayers, you just need some Aussies and Kiwis looking for brightly coloured fish and coral...

Survivor beach...













yeh, no

 

[bPeteb]

It fined up after lunch and we walked up the ridge to the wreckage of a Grumman Corsair that had crashed during WWII.

On the beach were the concrete slabs of the machine (?) gun battery. I wonder if they showed these in Survivor or just covered them in sand?



I did ask Vincent about the infamous Survivor bamboo. We were told that they shipped in piles of bamboo to Aitutaki for the cast to build shelter and it was still there years later. Vincent said yes, but that the locals had made good use of it after filming finished.

The stainless steel bolts poking up out of the concrete looked like new



Lelapa







the wreckage of the Corsair and Bradley our skipper





we had another half our before we left the beach for the lava cave

 

[bPeteb]

The lava cave was literally less than 100 metres from where we'd been snorkelling. 65 metres deep I think. They had a held a Survivor challenge in it - blindfolded and then find their way out. The floor of the cave was supper rocky. I don't see how anyone could have done it without ruining hands, knees, and potentially heads!





Back on the boat for another 20 minutes to our second and last snorkel. This time attached to a mooring and over the side. Even without sun it was amazing. They threw in some bread to attract fish and in we went. Crazy amount of fish and really interesting, and undamaged, coral. No pictures cos we only brought phones with us on this trip.

Then another maybe 30 minutes around to the village where we had a hot drink and the opportunity to buy some souvenirs. Given an explanation of the five tribes/families of the islands. I think the islands were specific to Efate and it's close islands. Maybe I have that wrong. One of the people who'd recommended the trip had told me it was really dirty but I thought it was a typical village. These people have different priorities to us although I thought it was pretty darn clean. The rubbish disposal thing though is something that needs to be looked at if Vanuatu is going to start selling itself as an eco destination.









the sun was out by the time we got back to the boat and I wondered to myself if we could go back to our last spot. Sadly no

 

[drron]

Well you have sold it to me bpeteb.Those prices for food are now cheaper than Fiji which also had hit or miss quality.From QLD it is also closer than Fiji.

We went to Vanuatu a few times in the 70s and 80s and learnt the lesson on cruise ships-never go into Vila on a cruise ship day.We did on a couple of occasions venture there for dinner after the cruise ship left but they both times had run out of lobster and coconut crab so didn't go a third time.

 

[bPeteb]

Loius and the van weren't at the landing when we got back so we went for a little cruise along the coastline of Efate. Some really beautiful homes built along the water (and some really horrible ones that could have been at Sylvania Waters or Raby (Rabid) Bay. There were one or two that were holiday lets that looked amazing.

Bradley told us a very funny story about some Chinese tourists in search of a photo that got too close to an angry billy goat. It ended up chasing them, and him around their van. He pointed the flock out, grazing on the abandoned resort site next to the kava stand/van stop. We stayed put until Loius arrived and then bundled into the bus without delay.

A bit more about the resort and then to New Year's Eve.

There's a couple of a-frame white boards in reception. They go through the daily program that starts with a resort orientation (for yesterday's arrivals) at 10am in the tv room. In our welcome envelope there was also tickets for the village walk (next door and we didn't do). Then anything else that's on (cooking class one day) and finishing with any entertainment and the theme for the restaurant - Italian, French, seafood, local specialty. There's happy hour every night from 5-6 (two for one). The coughtails were good strength, they had a decentish wine list (nothing fancy some Euro, some Oz, some NZ), a variety of beers including local and some Oz incl 150 Lashes, Little Creatures (way too many people drinking VB and xx_X).

The resort was kept impeccably clean. They were out raking the paths from very early and were at it all day. Raking the seaweed on the beach at low tide



The tiled areas never stopped getting mopped/swept. A couple of the beach umbrellas needed to be repaired/replaced. There were two 'plastic rattan' lounge settings on timber platforms down by the beach that also needed to be binned. The pool was a beautiful temp, a really good size with three distinct depths, and kept super clean as well. They need more beach loungers and umbrellas as they are the only shade available on the beach. Your other alternatives are sitting in the bar, the restaurant, the tv room or back at your fare.

Pango Bay is not a swimming, or snorkelling bay although you could if you wanted to and lots did attempt to snorkel. I think they had gear although we didn't go in search of it. They also offered reef shoes, kayaks and what looked like stand up paddle boards although we didn't see anyone use any of them. I think they are free too.

You need reef shoes or small swimming flippers to get over the broken coral along the edge of the shore (or be brave and just suck it in as you get stabbed in the feet - us). There was a bit of a sandy area out to the right of the resort that you could at least walk out into to paddle in but it isn't more than waist deep even at high tide.

Bit easier swimming to the right of the resort



There's a really strong rip, very clearly marked a couple of hundred or so metres out, again to the right of the resort. I watched a young guy who was staying at the resort swim straight into it and then struggle in it for way too long. How can an Aussie who was a good swimmer not know how to swim out of a rip? Pool only maybe. I didn't let him out of my sight until he got himself to the sign set on two posts sitting 100m out in the bay warming of the rip (that he'd ignored).



He didn't put his hand up for help but if he had there were some boogie boarders whose boards could have been commandeered. A number of guests had brought surf boards and there was a reef break a few hundred metres out that didn't look too bad if that's your thing. He was exhausted when he finally got back to shore. I'm sure his wife hadn't even noticed...

 

[bPeteb]

This was our first ever overseas New Year's Eve. In hindsight being so close to Oz, at a resort full of Aussies (and Kiwis) it was always going to be a bit bogan Aussie. Saying that we had what Bill and Ted would describe as a most excellent night.

The flyers and details of the planned festivities.







Initially we looked at the price of the night, and the inclusions and we thought that's a bit rich - $125 and only two included drinks - and maybe from that perspective it was. A couple of people we'd met had decided not to pay and wanted to eat off the restaurant menu (but of course get all the entertainment). That was just being cheap. I was at the bar as the night kicked off and a couple were sat at a table whining about why couldn't they order dinner, they didn't want to pay for the NYE dinner. They were told the kitchen was fully occupied cooking food for the buffet and that pizza would be available after 8. Sure it should have been explained to people booking tables but I'd guess were just presuming they'd be eating the buffet. They weren't even boomers, just young with the boomer mentality

One thing that wasn't explained when you booked was that you'd be allocated a table for the party size you booked. So lots of twos when actually if you'd known you might have booked a four or six with other people. It was logical that you would need a table both for drinks service and for a guaranteed place to eat. It really didn't matter in the end. Once people had eaten everyone just moved around.

The pool area looked amazing. It was a beautiful evening with an amazing backdrop.







The night kicked off with my favourite string band (tables down on the beach!)



View across the pool. They wanted people to make us of the pool during the night (what could possibly go wrong? Nothing did!)





The food was being served on what was described as a grazing table. It was a bit lost in translation. The 'nibbles' (actually on a table) disappeared very quickly, before many even realised it was there. 'Main' food was served in the breakfast buffet area. It was plentiful, there was a lot of variety (see earlier picture) and it was delicious. I didn't get a single picture. We were sat at one of the tables down on the beach. It felt pretty special

 

[bPeteb]

I found a food photo. There was also dessert tables later on



I took lots of video of the entertainment and not many photos so the photos are on the whole taken from the videos. It was fantastic, and worth the 9500 alone. Even our least favourite Jimmy (a pretty ordinary singer) was passable. We even managed to win one of the lucky draws and scored a bottle of wine.

Local dance troupe from earlier in the week but with more in the group



First of two flame dance troupes







then a group who danced a variety of Polynesian style dances





This was interspersed with Jimmy singing, the random prize draws that sure weren't every 30 minutes, and then a couple of dance offs that was quite beautifully awarded to a young guy with Downs and his sister. He was so excited.

Our winning tickets!



the winning flotation device - two red cows/bulls and their ring



and after he'd won

 

[bPeteb]

The second flame group were a mix of young girls and guys and looked like a youth group whereas the first had looked like a cultural group







the absolute highlight of either flame show was this amazing catherine wheel kind of thing down by the shoreline. It's kind of lost in still pictures. Imagine it spinning





the second group ended with this. I was watching the whole time thinking please don't set one of your mates on fire!



They lit a bonfire on the beach that didn't draw much of a crowd



I spent a lot of time in the pool towards the end of the evening. Think I got out at about 1:30. Had a bit of a dance with the hangers on and then it was off to bed. A brilliant night

 

[bPeteb]

The people of Vanuatu love their NYE, and love their alcohol, and this meant that our sleep was more dozing due to the number of locals wandering up and down the road outside shouting and playing plastic horns right through the early morning. Those in the fares nearest the village (furthest from the road) had the same so it was equal opportunity for all.

With slightly sore heads we got up and I headed straight to the ocean followed by breakfast of bacon and eggs (of course).

I had much fun in one of those rings last night



Then it was time to pack. It took all of two minutes!

The hotel charges 3.5% for ccard transactions so I took as much as I could out of the atm. If I'd realised there was a 30,000 limit I would have been checking the room balance and taking it out along the way (490 per wdl) as it would have saved enough for me to bother about. Our bill was 113,000 - food, drink and the transfer back to the airport (2,800).

Flight was at 2:50 and I booked van for 12:30. It arrived at 12 and we were at the airport and into the departure lounge by not long after 12:30. We bumped into the ladies we'd shared the van with on the day we arrived. They said the Ramada was nice but service was terrible. They had to find people to get a drink or a towel. It's a Wyndham.

Because we hadn't been in to town to visit the amazing 'yellow' duty free, we bought our booze at the airport. Finlandia 1l was 1280! We don't really like Gordons but their pink was 1400. Four Pillars was 4000ish. Bargains!

We boarded slightly ahead of time and they called Economy X with J and status pax. Row three this time so huge amount of space.



We were joined by a miniature witch from Clayfield/Vaucluse/Toorak. Silver grey bob. She was just missing the pearls. She started coughing the moment she sat down - "well that was a trip from hell". She was back up the front asking the FA for something as people were still boarding. Whatever she'd asked for she came back even grumpier (a move to J I'm guessing). She'd put her bag in business class overhead in anticipation.

View over Port Vila as we left



The Warwick Le Lagon



Pango Bay with Breakas to the right of the bay and spare block between it and village. The row of two storey villas to the left of the resort are three bed self contained. Were often over at Breakas but no under 15s allowed and I watched day visitors with kids get turned away Speaking of day visitors there were times when groups of six or eight (always French) took up two tables in the bar, or three of the six or so beach umbrellas. This would be my only grumble about Breakas. Your paying guests should always have priority to space when it is limited.



another larger view of Pango Bay and the peninsula. You can see Pacific Aria at the cruise ship 'terminal'





She grumbled the whole flight. Rude to the FAs, very particularly one Moari girl (crew was from NZ). Didn't want water in a cup, she wanted a bottle - "this is all we have". Didn't want to get her tray table out of the arm - expected the crew to do it for her. Didn't want to put it away to get up to go to the loo. She was told that doing it herself was the only option that she had. bigAl heard her say "I've flown round the world five cough*ing times and never experienced anything like this". Which bit? Flying economy, water in plastic cups, a tray table in the armrest? No slaves available? I call bullshit. She was just an entitled Karen.

we flew directly over New Caledonia



Meal was a very nice salad with prosciutto



The piece de resitance was when she was asked to pick her hat up off the floor when we were coming in to land (30 minutes early by the way). She objected loudly - "what kind of bloody obstruction is this?". I was this close...

I can't imagine what would have happened if she'd opened a tray table as dirty as mine was



Just a single immigration machine working in the whole of BNE arrivals! My passport is always rejected by smart gate so I was directed straight to a queue with no-one in it. When he looked at me funny and then asked for my driver's licence I thought what the? Then he has asked if I was Peter because I didn't look like Alan. We'd got each others passports! I called bigAl over. The agent thought it was very funny and didn't want to be rude by asking if I'd had some serious work done.

First into customs queue, declared food and shells - showed the pair of earings and the coffee and waived straight through. Into the maxi (gee I hate them) and home. I wish I could have stayed another week!

We will definitely return to Breakas and will also make our way out to Espiritu Santo and the tented eco-lodge.

Hope you like it as much as we did dr and mrsdrron

 

[drron]

It's certainly now on our list though travel 2020/21 is basically all organised.
I reckon I could have out entitled Karen.But I have been around the world 20-30 times and because economy is always like this I now only do it in first class.

 

[mrs.dr.ron]

I agree about the tattoos ! Saw heaps when in Fiji too. Dont these people think of what they will look like when they are in their 60s !!!!

 

[OZDUCK]

Looks like you had a great time! Thanks for the TR.

 

[Bundy Bear]

Nice trip report
Your trip report is reminding me I should write mine,
yeah, nah

 

[ellen10]

Great trip report, definitely on my radar.

 

[VPS]

Great TR thanks - people like Karen just make me want to go up to them and tell them to pulling their effing head in.

 

[RB]

Another great report-thank you, some excellent photos again

 

[Major]

We visited several times in the 80's and 90's and enjoyed it immensely. The people were always happy and laughing. There were some great restaurants with French influence from the time of the New Hebrides.
About 15 years ago we noticed the restaurants were now owned by Australians and Kiwis with prices to match.
It's lost a lot of it's earlier charm but you can still have a relaxing, no pressure holiday.
I'm glad you had an enjoyable new year and thanks for another terrific TR.

 

[oztripper]

Thanks for a very comprehensive review, it give us some good tips.

 

[suze2000]

Enjoyed this TR. We have been twice to Vanuatu and both times stayed at Eratap Resort. Adults-only outside of school holidays and breakfast and dinner included in room rate. We loved it. Went to Espiritu Santo on the second trip. Loved that too, but were glad had a local driver on that island. There's fees to be paid to pass into some areas and they made sure we weren't ripped off. Or this was an issue three (Four?) years ago, perhaps it's better now. If anyone goes, DO NOT miss the chance to go to Mt Yasur on Tanna Island. Amazing.

 

[drron]

But be careful on Mt.Yasur.You will be taken to the craters edge even if the conditions mean you should not be there.We were told after our visit.
But had the pleasure of also running a clinic on Tanna arranged by the ship's doctor on a cruise from Guam to Fiji.Delightful people.