O Tannenbaum - A tour of German Christmas Markets and other spots

OK, as it is about -8C outside at 20:45 we are hiding out for an evening. As I have also been allowed access to the laptop for a little while I will attempt to catch this up a little bit.

Changi Airport had a big Christmas presentation at Terminal 3

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There was also the fanciest coffee store that I have ever seen.

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Vietnam Airlines use the SATS lounge at Changi. It is just adequate. The seats are comfortable and the drinks cold. The food selection was pretty limited and the toilet/shower area far too small.

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We boarded pretty much on time but were behind about 10 planes waiting to take off so it was a very long and slow taxi out.

The J Seats on their A321 are very old fashioned but comfortable. On this aircraft there were 2 rows of 2 + 2. The legroom is very good and a reclined seat in front of you is of no concern. The table comes out of the armrest.

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They have a streamed entertainment program but it looked very basic. The best thing e=was the flight map on the overhead screens.

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You will notice the feet on the bulkhead of the guy in front of my wife. His behavior during the flight and afterwards really showed that we were now travelling under a different system. At check-in he stood about 2 metres from the desk while his two, probably, PA's did all the work. As soon as he got on board he reclined his seat completely and pulled down the sunshades. Meanwhile the 2 female FA's pushed his big and heavy pigskin case down the aisle and then struggled together to put into the overhead locker. He offered no assistance or word of thanks. On his wrist was a very large likely solid gold watch and he had a silver or platinum signet ring with a huge diamond. He was politely asked to lift up his shutters and bring up his seat or takeoff which he did. After the FA's sat down and there was a bit of delay he again reclined his seat and pulled down the shutters. It is possible because of the angles of sight that his actions were hidden from the FA's. He maintained this sort of attitude for the entire flight but did grudgingly prepare his seat properly for landing. He was first off the plane after the FA's again struggled to bring him his case - once more without a word of thanks. To his chagrin he had to share the Business Class Bus for the short trip to the terminal but on entry a flunky rushed up to relieve him of all his cases and he turned right while everyone else turned left. He was obviously very 'well connected' either as a politician or a rich businessman - in Vietnam i would guess that you could not become rich without extremely good political connections.

Anyway back to the flight. The flight crew was very cautious with the use of the seatbelt light putting it on very quickly and keeping it on for a fair while. The FA's were very polite and efficient and spoke fair English. For those who like their PDB's we were offered Champagne or Juice. Two others asked for and received whisky and soda while on the ground.

My meal of a sweet chicken curry.

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My wife had a braised beef dish

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The transit system here was a bit complicated. As you enter the terminal a Vietnam Airlines staff member greets you and puts a 'Transit' sticker on your chest. You the present your passport to an immigration officer who takes a quick look and sends you on your way. No visa is required for transit. You then have to through the normal departure security check before you finally are in the departure terminal.

Because of flight changes we had to spend over 8 hours in Hanoi. The Lotus Lounge is not bad. It was a bit hot early on but as the sun moved around it cooled down. The seating was pretty comfortable.

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Some of the food. It was topped up at about 21:00 to cater for a bank of flights to Europe and Korea.

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You could make your own Pho.

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There were three shower cubicles in the Female Toilets and two in the Male ones. They were a bit old fashioned but clean and amenities like a tooth brush, soaps, conditioners, cotton buds etc. were packed with each towel.

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We eventually boarded the plane, a B787, about 30 minutes late. Then we had a delay of close to an hour. It would seem that someone mucked up the loading plan. We were above the front cargo hatch and two big pallets of cargo were removed and one container of baggage was placed on board instead. I was happy to have a delay and avoid a take-off with the aircraft out-of-trim.

The cabin crew were pretty keen to put on the seatbelt light but there was turbulence for much of the flight. Amusingly, now, the worst bump we had was when the seatbelt light was off. We were happily cruising along above Pakistan in smooth skies when we suddenly sharply tossed about. It only lasted for about 10 seconds but gave the plane a big jolt.

Cargo being removed.

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The seats are pretty much the same setup we have experienced before on CX and AY but felt a little tighter. The seat cushion was pretty firm and with a lump. I ended up putting my blanket underneath me and that was much better. It was still better than the SQ J seats we had on last years trip to Germany as you could at least lie straight.

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The meals were all excellent and very filling. the FA's were circulating for most of the flight offering drinks and snacks to those awake. They were again very good.

The entree of cold chicken salad.

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Main course of beef sirloin - very tender.

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Breakfast. It was a huge bowl of Pho and neither of us could finish it off - but it tasted very nice.

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Somewhere- Budapest perhaps?

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The IFE was pretty poor for us monolingual English speakers. I was forced to watch a John Wick movie. There was also a pretty limited choice of TV shows. It was a pity there was no English subtitles for the Vietnamese Films and TV shows as some of them looked interesting.

In the end we arrived about an hour late but zoomed through Immigration with no line and were on the transfer bus within about 15 minutes after the doors were opened.
 
I did forget to mention that the FA's on both flights were punctilious about keeping Y pax from using the J toilets. Which incidentally were kept very clean. Wet towels were handed out on boarding and for each meal service.
 
We were only in Frankfurt for 2 nights and did not do an awful lot. The first day was a bit of a recovery day as we arrived at 07:00 The second day we took the S Bahn to Bad Homburg to catch up with some friends and spent most of the day with them.

We did go to the Kleinmarkthalle and decided to have a small meal from one of the shops selling fish. Unfortunately our language skills let us down plus having being awake for about 24 hours. We could read that what we had ordered was freshly hand made but it wasn't until it was too late that my wife worked out that we had actually ordered spring rolls. They were fine and freshly made and cooked for us but it wasn't the fish snack we were after.

The Spring Rolls

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They were the third item on this menu

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We were hoping for our selection to have been something from this range

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Some of the range of shops in the market

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Around Frankfurt

The Eschenheimer Turm

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The Christmas Market stalls were being set-up but were not due to open until a few hours after we left Frankfurt

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Thank you I am fine. My wife has now fallen over twice - not something she does normally. Once in a pitch black Frankfurt St over one of those Devil's works - an abandoned electric hire scooter. And last night over a hidden curb. This time she fell in soft snow and the conditions were somewhat tricky. She is also fine.

Walking out for our meal -

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I am definitely not envy such early winter weather which cyclically occur I Europe about every 40+ yrs.
 
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We were only in Frankfurt for 2 nights and did not do an awful lot. The first day was a bit of a recovery day as we arrived at 07:00 The second day we took the S Bahn to Bad Homburg to catch up with some friends and spent most of the day with them.

We did go to the Kleinmarkthalle and decided to have a small meal from one of the shops selling fish. Unfortunately our language skills let us down plus having being awake for about 24 hours. We could read that what we had ordered was freshly hand made but it wasn't until it was too late that my wife worked out that we had actually ordered spring rolls. They were fine and freshly made and cooked for us but it wasn't the fish snack we were after.

The Spring Rolls

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They were the third item on this menu

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We were hoping for our selection to have been something from this range

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Some of the range of shops in the market

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Around Frankfurt

The Eschenheimer Turm

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The Christmas Market stalls were being set-up but were not due to open until a few hours after we left Frankfurt

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So you missed the main attraction, the German Christmas Market. Schade....
 
I am definitely not envy such early winter weather which cyclically occur I Europe about every 40+ yrs.
People have been saying that it all seemed to come two months early. But of course snow is such a novelty for us that it was a highlight. We have just arrived in Nuremberg and it is grey and windy and about 9C with no sign of snow. I expect that this is what we will get for the next couple of weeks.
 
Per usual I am finding it a big struggle to write up a TR on the road as I usually too tired each night when we get back to our room. So as a keeper here are an assortment of photos from the first part of our trip.

Strasbourg - it looks to be a really beautiful city that I would love to visit in summer.

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Ulm - there are a couple of plaques on the wall of the cathedral commemorating one of the ancestors of my wife. Her family helped pay for the building of the cathedral in the 14th C.

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The cathedral spire, the highest in the world, looming over the Rathaus.

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On our forlorn quest to see the Herrenchiemsee Palace on Herrinsel on the Chiemsee. A little sprinkling of snow and the locals refused to come to work.

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However some locals seemed quite happy

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This was definitely the little engine that could. The next day it took us back to the local bahnhoff but unfortunately the main line trains were not working.

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And to cool you all down a few of the many 'snow' photos we took at Prien am Chiemsee.

The reality of living with snow instead of just seeing it as a holidaymaker.

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Of course for us it was a bit of fun

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Our last view - showing why the trains were not running.

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Another quick filler.

This one covers the bus, boat and cog railway trip to the top of the Schafberg overlooking the Wolfgangsee

First the 55 minute public bus ride to St Gilgen - with pretty good views on the way.

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Then the ferry ride

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The train

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Views from the top

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The abdomen -able snowman (deliberate spelling) and his innocent victim.

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Deer were 'grazing'

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Sunset on the bus ride home - about15:45

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As promised now we are back in Perth I will complete this TR. After our initial flight bookings we had a number of schedule changes for our return trip. Because of these, after we left our last hotel in Germany we were travelling for over 36 hours before we got home. It has taken me about 5 days to recover.

Our hotel in Frankfurt - Alexander Am Zoo. As might be expected it was literally just over the road from the zoo. We arrived there at about 08:30 and as soon as we opened our mouths the the front desk man said "You must be Mr & Mrs Ozduck. We have a room ready for you to check into right now". It was very nice to dump everything and clean up before walking around town.

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We had a standard room which was pretty comfortable.

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But not a real carpark view

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We were just a couple of blocks down from here

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The hotel was only about a 5 minute walk from the nearest U Bahn station and we were only a couple of stops from the centre of town. The walls of the station were decorated

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My wife has always liked this building in central Frankfurt on The Zeil.

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On the banks of the Main near the European Bank Building

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When we visited the same spot in August 2022 there was salsa dancing going on every night

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Frankfurt continued.

The European Bank Building

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Again there is a slight difference in how this area looked this year compared to last year.

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For our meal on the first night we went to an Apple Wine Restaurant - Zur Schoenen Muellerin. For a good AFF context our waitress was a moonlighting Lufthansa cabin crewmember who was off to Adelaide in a weeks time.


We started off with - Handkäse mit musik (“handcheese with music”) is a Hessian specialty. Based on curdled sour milk, the cheese's already pungent odor is exacerbated by a topping of raw, white onion vinaigrette.

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I had Meat Loaf with Green Sauce and sauerkraut
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My wife had Hessian Schnitzel which came with a sour cream topping

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We also shared a salad

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This place is pretty well known and has been operating for decades. They used to make their own apple wine but not these days

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The portions were huge and we could not completely finish them off. There was certainly no room for desert.
 
We only spent 2 nights in Frankfurt. The first was just to recover from the trip and the second was to visit some elderly friends in Bad Homburg.

When we last saw the Bad Homburg Station, 2013 it and the surrounds were being refurbished. They seem to have done a pretty good job. The station was opened in 1907.

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The next day we travelled to Eberdingen, a small town just a little north of Stuttgart. As became a continuing problem with using D Bahn trains the original train we booked was cancelled and we had to choose another one. The new trip was about 30 minutes longer. Both trains required a connection but the new one required us to go into Stuttgart and then catch a local train to backtrack to the nearest station - Vaihingen (Enz).

Frankfurt HBF - cold and windy. Our ICE arrived about 15 minutes late.

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The yellow painted lines on the pavement apparently have the magical ability to stop cigarette smoke bothering anybody who has to stand nearby for their train. The overhead displays show where your carriage will be when the train arrives. I have to admit that unlike last year this part of the journey worked well.

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On board. This one was pretty quiet.

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The maps on the overhead monitors are informative.

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We had to make a big detour near Mannheim because of signal problems. Eventually we arrived in Stuttgart over 30 minutes late on a 78 minute leg. The shown speed was about as fast as we got as the detour took us onto some low speed lines.

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Coming back out of Stuttgart the local train was pretty crowded -as most of the ones we used in Germany were. I didn't have a seat but luckily this was only a 15 minute trip. A woman did offer me one but with our luggage it would not have worked.

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We then were kindly hosted by our friends. We have stayed with them 3 times in Eberdingen and have hosted them in Perth 4 times. The husband is something like the 30th cousin of my wife. They shared common ancestors sometime in the 16th Century.

Their street with their house, duplex, being on the left of the photo

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We stayed in the basement next to the model train set. I longed for a car park view.

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But I certainly can't complain as we got full food and board. Plus local guides and transport.

Frühstück - breakfast

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Afternoon tea - our hostess had made a huge stock of biscuits for the Christmas season

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These biscuit boxes were full of her creations

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Germans like fruit teas much more than 'ordinary' tea. I don't normally drink tea but I must admit that in the cold I liked a cup of Plum and Cinnamon tea - Zimt-Pflaume

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Our first Christmas Market was the Baroque one at nearby Ludwigsburg.

Ludwigsburg Palace - well worth a visit in its own right. The marketplace is only a few hundred metres from the palace

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The Palace on a previous summer visit. You can see some Pumpkins dotted around because a Kurbis (Pumpkin) Festival is held there every year.

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The Christmas Market

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I soon discovered that those gloves were too small and bought some longer ones. My wife then happily wore these ones.

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My wife with our hosts and their son

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My wife and I with our hosts daughter. Drinking hot liquids makes plenty of sense at these markets. However I think that this particular glühwein was the least appetizing one I had on the trip. The two woman were actually drinking Kinderpunsch - non alcoholic punch.

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On one day we went to the Christmas markets in Strasbourg. Their daughter had planned a schedule to use the local trains. Unfortunately due to a number of train cancellations and a missed connection on the return trip it took us around 3 hours to get there and over 4 hours to get back. We were pretty shattered by the end.

Another local train with people standing. We had seats this time. Every second train on this route was cancelled or had stops removed.

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After two regional express trains we got to a small station were we had to travel cross country to another platform to catch a local train to get near Strasbourg but still on the German side of the Rhine.

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It was a touch desolate and chilly on this platform

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The silver arches are the bridge over the Rhine from Germany into France - Strasbourg. this is the only time I have used a tram to cross an international border.

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Crossing over the Rhine on the tram. Note all the River Cruise boats moored together past the next bridge.

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When we first got off the tram Strasbourg looked a little bleak.

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But it soon started to look a lot more interesting

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